Growing cut roses - Rose growing technologies, cutting and storage

Do I need to cut a climbing rose

Florists know that a flower garden looks beautiful only when they are engaged in it. In the fall, before wintering, it is necessary to remove old, dry, diseased shoots. Under the film cover, pests can breed in them and fungal diseases can multiply.

In the spring, it is necessary to carry out molding pruning of climbing plants. Do this to form a beautiful shrub of the correct shape.

What else is the procedure for:

Direct the growth of culture in the right direction.
They do not allow the thickening of the shoots, which leads to a reduction in peduncles and a deterioration in the decorative qualities of the plant.
Pruning stimulates flowering: the plant does not use up the growth of shoots and the green part, but on the formation of buds.

Important! It is recommended to shorten the climbing rose annually in the spring, immediately after removing the winter insulation.

Preparing roses for wintering

It is required to prepare lovely flowers with buds in mid-August-early September. This process consists of several main stages:

Removal of nitrogen from soil. For this, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer is carried out. The performance of such an action is necessary to stop the active growth of the vegetative mass, aerial parts and strengthen the root system.
Compression of shoots. After feeding, you should wait 5 to 7 days. As soon as this time has passed, it is required to carefully separate the shoots of the plant and lightly press the top of each of them. This is necessary to speed up the process of lignification of the stems.
An obligatory step is pruning hybrid tea roses. Shorter flowers are easier to cover for the winter without harming them.
At the final stage, it is required to cover the bushes, which will protect the stems from hypothermia.

Another important question is when to open the hybrid tea after winter. Early removal of the cover will lead to the premature appearance of the buds, later - to rotting and blackening of the bush. This must be done when a stable above zero temperature prevails during the day, but slight frosts will still be observed at night. The optimal time for opening plants for central Russia is from 10 to 20 April.

Pruning hybrid tea roses for the winter

To prune hybrid tea roses before winter, you will need a sharp tool - a knife, scissors or pruning shears. The sharper the blade, the better. First, it will be possible to cope with the task quickly. Secondly, the risk of harm to the plant is reduced. To carry out pruning, you need to do the following:

Before you start covering the hybrid tea variety, you need to disinfect the instrument with potassium permanganate or Bordeaux liquid. This must be done to prevent infestation of the stems.
Determine where the bud is located on the outside of the shoot.
Place the secateurs over it at a 45-degree angle and make a cut. An acute angle must be created without fail. If you cut the stems at right angles, the plant sap will accumulate at the cut line. This will lead to rotting from excess moisture.
Remove all damaged and dried stems, as well as unripe shoots from the bush of the hybrid tea rose.
Treat the cut sites with an antiseptic in order to prevent the penetration of dangerous microorganisms.From folk remedies, you can use tree resin for this purpose.

With proper pruning, it will be easier to cover the tea rose for the winter. In addition, the kidneys will not be affected, which will begin to actively develop.

Shelter rules for tea roses

Before you start covering, you should prepare hybrid tea roses for this process. To do this, you should slightly dig in them, approximately to the level of 20-40 cm from the base of the stems. All upper shoots must be carefully covered with a small amount of dry foliage and spruce branches. Then you need to make an air type of shelter, which can be built from geotextile fabric, thermal insulation material, plastic and even plywood.

Important! The optimal period to cover roses in central Russia is from 15 to 25 October.

In total, 3 options for creating a structure are known among gardeners:

Frame - implies the installation of metal rods in the shape of a dome over a plant bush. On top of it, it is required to apply a fabric or heat-insulating material, which must be pressed to the base of the earth with boards or bricks. Depending on the climatic conditions, you can cover it in one or two layers. From time to time, you can open the fabric for a few minutes for airing.
A fence with an embankment is the simplest option; you can create a shelter in a few seconds. This requires creating a small fence around the bush. To do this, you can use plywood, old cardboard boxes, metal mesh or plastic. Any insulation must be poured into the inside. You can use hay, foliage or sawdust as it. In case of severe frosts, it is necessary to additionally cover the structure with a plastic bag or thermal insulation material.
Lutrasil cocoon is ideal for tall flowers. It is necessary to create a pyramid-shaped structure from metal rods around the bush. From the outside, it is required to wrap it with a special material - lutrasil. Additionally, insulation should be laid out along the lower border in order to prevent air penetration.

Every gardener should know how to cover roses before the onset of cold weather. This will not only save them from hypothermia, but also prevent the development of certain diseases, for example, the appearance of rot or blackening.

When to prune in spring

The procedure is carried out during the period of dormant buds, if spring frosts are no longer expected. This time falls in late April and early May, but these periods can be different each year - it all depends on the weather conditions.

If you cut the roses before April, lowering the temperature can slow down the formation and blooming of buds - in this case, you can not wait for flowering.

If pruning is done later than mid-May, when the plant begins to release buds, you can cause irreparable harm to it, as a result, the bush will die.

Thinning of climbing roses is carried out on a warm, dry, clear day. If a young plant of the first year of life is planted in open ground, pruning is not recommended. After shortening the shoots, before the leaves bloom, the bush is sprayed with copper sulfate. This will prevent the onset of fungal diseases.

Regional features

Early frosts can destroy both flowers and unripe young shoots.

Bush pruning is carried out in the middle of summer. In August, especially in the second half, the procedure is undesirable - the new flower will not have time to develop. During this period, it is better to remove only wilted flowers.

In the southern regions, re-flowering varieties are pruned up to three times per season.

Types of spring pruning climbing roses

The procedure for caring for a flowering plant is divided into 3 types: formative, rejuvenating, sanitary pruning. Each is carried out depending on the state of the bush.Ate the correct pruning of the climbing rose in the spring, in the summer you can get a lush and long flowering.

Sanitary

Cut off dead, frozen over the winter shoots, dry and damaged branches. They are pruned to the first living bud to form lateral shoots later. Unripe, unformed stems are cut in the same way. Among thinned stems, the risks of fungal diseases and pests are significantly reduced. The video will tell newcomer flower growers how to properly cut a thickened climbing rose in spring:

When shortening, they are guided by the color of the stem - cut off its yellow or brown part, leaving fresh light greens. So the plant will not waste energy on old and dry shoots, it will begin to form live, young shoots. It is they who release fragrant buds.

Anti-aging pruning

The procedure is applied to shrubs over 3 years old. In this case, thick, stiff shoots of climbing roses are pruned. They are cut almost completely, leaving only stems half a meter long, starting from the root. Thus, they thin out the bush, make room for the formation of young spring shoots. To understand which shoots to remove, they follow this rule: they cut off as many last year's old shoots as the climbing rose released young lashes.

Formative

Such pruning is carried out in order to form a climbing rose bush, a crown of the desired, correct or desired shape. The shoots of the plant are more often directed in a horizontal direction, if a vertical structure serves as a support, then they are allowed up the wall.

Too long, improperly growing stems are shortened. Also, old, stiff shoots are cut, they are difficult to direct in the right direction, so they are removed to make room for the growth of young branches, elastic and pliable. In this way, you can cut repair climbing roses in the spring. Climbing rose bush should consist of 5-6 main stems, in the spring they are shortened to 4 buds. After pruning, the height of the plant will be no more than half a meter.

Climber pruning features

Pruning Climber roses
These varieties are large-flowered or climbing roses. They have tough, thick shoots, large, often beautifully shaped double flowers. Many side branches can develop within 5 years, after which they weaken. Based on this, you need to trim long lashes at the base at the end of the fourth year. You need to cut such curly roses for the winter, taking into account the following tips:

The purpose of the work is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest, longest shoots.
In the fall, you need to cut off the unripe parts of the shoots, faded inflorescences.
If the branches are too long compared to the support, then feel free to prune them.
Get rid of the lashes that interfere with the free development of the curly rose.
The bush is given a neat shape: long lateral branches are removed, up to 4-5 buds are left.
Remove last year's branches very carefully: you only need to cut off the tops with underdeveloped buds.
To decorate the culture, cut off the tops of young shoots.
To rejuvenate the climbing rose, remove 1-2 old shoots annually.
In a mature, adult bush, leave 2-3 young shoots, the same number of last year's shoots, 1-2 shoots of three years of age.

Tool requirements

Climbing roses are pruned with a sharp, well-sharpened secateurs or a garden knife. Before the cutting procedure, the blade must be disinfected with any antiseptic or treated with a strong manganese solution.

You will also need a long-handled lopper with sharpened blades. You need to put on thick gloves on your hands that cannot damage the sharp thorns of a curly rose. The lopper is also decontaminated.

Important! If the shrub has not been cut for several years, and the branches are stiff, you will need a hacksaw. Its blade also needs to be disinfected.

Rules and scheme for pruning climbing roses in spring

If you prune in accordance with all the recommendations, the plant will more easily tolerate the procedure. The spring bush will be transformed, in summer you can expect exuberant flowering.

Pruning rules:

A warm, sunny day is chosen for the procedure.
If there are thick, stiff branches on the bush, prepare a hacksaw. A garden pruner is suitable for thin young shoots.
All instruments must be disinfected and well sharpened. A sharp cut will not harm the climbing rose, and it can get sick from lacerations.
Trimming is carried out at an acute angle (45 ᵒ), the cut should not turn out to be even, but beveled.
The bud on the stem should remain from the outside of the shoot so that new branches grow from the outside of the bush, and not from the inside.
A distance of several millimeters should remain from the cut to the bud, ideally 1 cm. Thus, the central (main) stems of the climbing rose are cut off.
Young, light green shoots that sprout at the base of the bush are removed. This is a wild growth of a climbing rose, it does not need to grow. Such shoots are not cut off, but dig into the soil to the very root and remove the shoot below the soil level.
For a climbing rose, use a weak pruning, remove dry, damaged ends of the shoots. Prune them to the first living bud.
Then the underdeveloped thin and short stems are cut off.
After thinning short shoots on the main shoots of climbing culture: remove those that grow on the inside of the stem.
Stiffened stems over 3 years old are cut at the root.

Stiffened stems younger than 3 years old are shortened, leaving half a meter from the base of the plant.
After pruning climbing roses, the cuts are treated with garden pitch. Then the bushes are sprayed with copper sulfate, a solution of 1%.

Important! If the climbing rose bush is not cut for at least one season, it will cease to be decorative, flowering will become weak, and the green part of the plant will look like wild thickets.

Pruning as prevention

Look at the plants and make sure they don't have branches growing inside the bush. If there are any, they must be removed. This will improve the ventilation of the plant and dilute it.

Those branches that have been damaged in winter or have completely died out should be cut to the place where the living wood begins. In well-developed bushes, remove all weak shoots.

If the rose is weak enough and does not develop well, the shoots are left, shortening only one of them by one or two buds - this way you will strengthen the plant and stimulate its further development.

The main goal of preventive pruning is to create the necessary conditions for the bush so that it can feed the entire aboveground part. Indeed, in this case, the plant will be able to develop and bloom well.

Preventive pruning of roses allows the bush to develop well and be saturated with trace elements from the soil

Climbing rose care after pruning

After removing unnecessary shoots, the climbing culture needs careful care, which will predetermine its decorative appearance for the next summer season.

Care rules:

After pruning, the climbing rose is watered every 2 weeks.
Watering should be abundant (at least 2 buckets per plant). The soil must be saturated with moisture deeper than the root of the plant.
If during the period after pruning there are frequent rains, the plant does not need additional watering. Waterlogging of the soil leads to the development of fungal diseases.
The next day after moistening the soil, deep loosening of the earth is carried out. The instrument must be deepened by at least 6 cm. This will provide oxygen access to the roots.
After loosening, the soil can be mulched. This will keep moisture at the root of the climbing rose. Mulching will help to reduce the frequency of watering, and in this case, loosening is not necessary at all.
Also, a shaft made of earth around the main stem of the plant will help to retain moisture at the root.
After pruning, the climbing rose is fed every 12 days. For these purposes, nitrogen and complex fertilizers for roses or other garden flowering crops are suitable. Top dressing is alternated. Fertilizers can be applied dry, digging with them the soil around the base of the bush, or you can water the bush under the root with liquid complex active substances.
20 days after thinning, climbing plants are watered with a mullein diluted in water in a ratio of 1 to 5.
Young plants up to a year, planted in open ground, do not need feeding.
Climbing roses over 3 years old are recommended to be fed only with organic fertilizers.
After pruning, it is important to correctly direct the growth of a climbing culture, tie up the shoots in the right direction, substitute supports and trellises.

Important! When feeding plants, the dosage of active substances should be strictly observed, otherwise they may die.

Do I need to trim the bushes after flowering: pros and cons

After pruning, the plant will switch from fruiting to regeneration.

If you do not prune roses in the summer after flowering, fruits with seeds are formed on the bushes, which in appearance resemble a rosehip. They are left if it is necessary to obtain planting material for cultivating a culture (certain varieties can be propagated this way, for example, "Angels Wings").

But the formation of fruit takes too much energy from the plant. Therefore, if they want the bush to continue to delight with abundant flowering, summer pruning is carried out. The procedure is repeated until the end of August. Then the wilted petals are removed, allowing the plant to form fruits. For him, this is a signal that cold weather will come soon.