Pruning plums - how and when to properly prune plums. Correct pruning and shaping of the tree (80 photos)

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August and September are busy months for the gardener: harvesting is in full swing, the beginning of preparing the plants for winter. For trees, the formation of the crown remains very important during this period, since the health and size of the harvest for the next year depends on it. Pruning plums in the fall is carried out according to a certain scheme aimed at increasing the volume of fruiting.

Pruning plums - how to carry out the procedure in the fall

Learning to saw and cut correctly

Proper care of stone fruits, including plums, is to adhere to agricultural technology. Fruit trees need watering, regular nutrition, and certainly proper pruning - these are the determining factors for the effective cultivation of fruit-bearing horticultural crops. Plum grows in the form of a bush - up to 2 m and in the form of a tall tree with a narrow pyramidal crown (tree height up to 7-10 m). Getting started pruning a plum, it is important to understand that basically this tree bears fruit on spur shoots located in the lower part of the trunk and on bouquet branches of the second year (when forming a tree-like crown type) - both the first and the second grows annually by 5-10 cm , fruit shoots live up to 4–5 years, in which case the harvest is concentrated inside the crown.

In the axils of the leaves, there are 2–4 growth buds, on spurs and bouquet branches there are usually 1–2 growth buds (leaves or shoot) and from one to three flower buds - our future harvest.

Types of fruiting plum formations

Thus, pruning a fruiting plum is to exclude a weakening of the annual growth (on which the main crop will be formed) - branches up to 40 cm do not need pruning, and shoots longer than 55-60 cm must be shortened annually by 10-15 cm. If this is not done, the fruiting branches become bare and sagging, in subsequent years they give less and less ovaries.

Plum growth: first summer - growth, second summer - annual wood blooms and at the same time sprouts with fruit twigs (spurs). Further, both annual shoots and spurs bloom: the tree is all in flowers, to the very tips of the branches. Many varieties of plums do not bloom on annual shoots, forming different fruit branches below. The fruits of these crops can branch and work for 5-6 years, but due to fungal diseases they usually die in the 3-4th year.

N. Kurdyumov

Pruning plums implies thinning - controlling young growth and shortening old, fruiting shoots to the length required by the type of formation, or up to 50-60 cm. But it is important to remember that some varieties do not give abundant growth and do not require annual intervention of the gardener, such cultivars need to be formed every second growing season.

Pruning plums with pruning shears

What features of plum fruiting are taken into account when pruning branches

The type of fruiting determines the frequency of the gardener's intervention with the pruner. Plums are divided into three types depending on the fruiting.

• Varieties that bear fruit on two-year spurs and bouquet twigs - Hungarian, Peach and others - here requires careful cutting of old and thickening shoots.
• Plums, which have a mixed type of fruiting, - there are ovaries both on annual growths and on two-year-old lateral spurs, this is typical of the varieties Volzhskaya krasavitsa, Pamyat Timiryazeva, Mirnaya, Tulskaya black, etc. - sanitary cutting is carried out annually, regulating or shaping by necessary (every 2-3 years after 4 years after planting).
• Exclusively on last year's increments, the Ussuri, Chinese, American plums yield a harvest - the bulk of the fruits is formed along the entire length of the shoots - by all means thinning, adjusting and shaping as needed.

The best cut is no need to cut. Formation is needed so that you do not have to cut. The earlier the impact, the stronger the effect with less effort. In time - this is when it is already visible, but has not yet influenced.

Depending on the type of fruiting of the plum, the method of pruning the tree is selected.

When and why the plum is cut in spring, summer and autumn

Spring is the ideal time for pruning and shaping the crown of the plum, spring cuts are better tightened, and during the growing season the plant rehabilitates better after "surgical" intervention. But experienced gardeners claim that this stone fruit crop can be pruned at any time of the year.

Experts advise pruning plums at any time of the year, and shaping in spring

This procedure should be resorted to only with the onset of stable warming - that is, the gardener must make sure that the threat of frost has passed. Experts recommend carrying out any activities with pruning shears in dry, calm weather. It is believed that you should not start pruning plums on the eve of frost and frost.

First, pruning is organized on mature trees, and then on young ones.

In central Russia, in the Volga and Chernozem regions, it is quite possible to carry out spring pruning of plums - starting from the end of March, and autumn - in the 2-3rd decade of October, the weather is quite favorable for this. In the southern regions (Crimea, Caucasus, Krasnodar Territory, Kuban), most often pruning of plum trees is carried out throughout the season: in the spring (1-3rd decade of March) - regulation and shaping, in the fall (in October - November), sanitary thinning is usually required ... In the northern regions of our country (Siberia, the Urals, the Far East), plums are cut only in spring - weather conditions allow the procedure to be carried out in April. Summer pruning is possible in any climatic zone.

Video: spring pruning and shaping the crown of a plum

In autumn, as at any other time of the year, mature trees can be cut dry, broken and thickening branches.

After the autumn pruning of plums, it is advisable to cover the places of the cuts with garden varnish or paint on natural linseed oil, which will contribute to their early healing.

Compared to spring pruning, pruning fruit trees in autumn should be more gentle and careful so as not to weaken the tree.

Video: autumn pruning of plum crown

In summer, pruning shears may be needed to thin out the crown - the plum very quickly builds up its "green" mass, and to regulate fruiting.

Video: how you can cut a plum in the summer

Some experts believe that pruning plum trees in summer is necessary in order to stimulate the growth of annual growth - this is especially true for varieties that bear fruit on two-year-old shoots. In this case, pruning is carried out in July (pinching), or later, after picking up the fruits (it is more convenient to work this way) - in August, all the more the ripening plum crop is harvested at once, otherwise it all falls.

Plum pinching is a type of summer pruning

During the summer, you can cut off growing twigs with a diameter of no more than 2.5 cm without putty. It is also necessary to remove the root growth. To do this, root shoots are removed from the root collar.

It is believed that young plums should be pruned 3 weeks before active sap flow (approximately in the 2nd decade of March), older trees are pruned during March - April. In any case, the owner of the garden should be guided by the climatic conditions of the region and the weather in the coming season. Experienced gardeners recommend, in addition to spring and autumn pruning, resort to summer pruning: in summer, old, fruiting shoots (bare) are clearly visible - they can be removed.At the ends of last year's branches one can clearly see the juvenile grown "forks" - three shoots each, one of them can be cut off immediately (growing incorrectly or inward), the second can be pinched - it will give additional growth during the summer.

The formation of a seedling and the rejuvenation of an adult tree should be completed about a month before bud break. In the case of sanitization with the removal of sick, frozen and dry parts, there are no time limits. Non-leaf rods make it easier to determine which ones should be removed. When pruning, be sure to use a garden pitch.

Garden var - the first assistant when pruning garden trees

The main goals and rules of pruning

Annual pruning of fruit trees:

• allows you to get a well-groomed tree;
• guarantees annual fruiting;
• increases the growth of "fruit" or young shoots;
• regulates fruiting;
• allows you to lighten the crown, get rid of unnecessary (old, crooked branches), thus stimulating air exchange and the permeability of light into the crown;
• helps to redirect nutrients to fruiting shoots and slow down the growth of unproductive shoots.

Correct pruning affects the regularity of fruiting, immunity and longevity of the tree.

Before pruning, it is necessary to prepare well-sharpened tools (garden knife, pruning shears), a ladder and gloves - the plum often has short spurs on the trunks and perennial shoots that can injure hands... And you will also need a garden pitch for putty slices.

Plum pruning tools

Small branches are cut with a garden knife or pruning shears, and thick ones are cut with a hacksaw. Old thick branches, so as not to injure the tree, are first sawed off in the lower part, and then finally sawn off from above, "into a ring" without leaving the hemp.

Video: pruning technique - we form the crown of a plum

How pruning is done in other seasons: summer and winter

It is better not to touch some fruit crops in the summer with pruning shears. Plum, on the contrary, is favorable to summer pruning.... It is better to plan the "haircut" in June.

You can do the following at this time:

• remove frozen shoots unnoticed in spring;
• remove fatty shoots (the so-called "tops"), which the plum likes to expel.

It is good to inspect the tree for infections throughout the summer. If an infected branch is found, you need to prune it immediately. We bring to your attention the following publications:

• Effective control of aphids on plums and other fruit trees.
• Why doesn't the plum blossom and bear fruit, and what to do about it?
• When and how to properly collect plums from a tree?

This accomplishes two goals: stopping the spread of disease in the garden and reducing the need for extensive sanitary pruning in the fall.

In recent years, gardening practice has increasingly included winter pruning plum... It is more correct, of course, to call it winter-spring, because this procedure is carried out closer to the end of February or at the very beginning of March.

Types and methods of pruning plum

Almost all plum trees, with the exception of seedlings, require sanitary, formative and regulating pruning. With age (after 10-15 years), the plum will need anti-aging pruning. With any technique, shoots are cut out "on a ring" or shortened "on a kidney".

The cut "on the ring" ("ring" - the influx at the base of the branch), when it is necessary to remove a whole branch, is done correctly: the branch is sawed off with a hacksaw or cut with a pruner (the tool is positioned so that its smooth cutting part is near the trunk) from top to bottom parallel the trunk, without leaving burrs and hemp, - the saw cut turns out to be smooth and even, it is immediately treated with garden putty.

In order to form new fruit formations and give the branches the desired direction of growth, pruning is carried out "to the bud": a bud located on the desired side of the branch is selected, a cut is made above it (0.5 cm above the bud),in this case, the angle of inclination should be parallel to the kidney at an angle of 45 degrees, otherwise the cut will provoke the accumulation of bacteria at the base of the kidney. Incorrect pruning "to the kidney" can lead to shrinkage and death of the shoot.

Pruning plums "for the ring" and "for the kidney"

The central conductor is a part of the trunk from the lower skeletal branch to the base of the continuation shoot. Continuation Escape is the current or last year gain on the center conductor.

Skeletal branches (uterine branches) are large branches of the first order, which, together with the trunk, make up the skeleton of the crown and form tiers.

Below we will try to figure out the main types of pruning and well-known methods of forming the crown of a plum.

Care after work

When small shoots are shortened, their sections dry up and heal on their own. After cutting off branches with a diameter greater than 3 cm, it is necessary to treat the wound with a protective disinfectant. For example, many gardeners prefer the popular RanNet drug. After being applied to the saw cut, it forms a film through which pathogens and pests do not penetrate.

Pruning the plum correctly is important to produce a healthy plant that can produce good yields. Often, gardeners prefer pruning plums in the fall, the scheme of which is the same as in similar work in the spring.

Seasonal sanitary pruning, which will also help clean up a neglected tree

This type of pruning is carried out annually, starting from the 2-3rd year of growth of the plum. With this procedure, do the following:

• broken, shriveled, damaged branches are removed;
• cut out growing crowns and thickening shoots;
• closely growing, rubbing against each other and thin weak processes are also removed.

Sanitary pruning is done regularly in early spring. But there is also a possibility that the procedure will need to be repeated both in summer and autumn.

Feeding rules

If you decide to start columnar plums on the site, planting and caring for them will not be too different from similar procedures for conventional plums. You need to feed the trees three times a year. The first time this is done after the buds have fully opened. Each subsequent time, fertilizers are applied in two weeks. For feeding, 50 grams of urea (two matchboxes) are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. Two liters are poured under each tree.

Scheme of rejuvenating pruning of old wood with height limitation

By rejuvenating an old plum tree, you will not only prolong its life, but you will also enjoy fruiting even after 10-12 years from the moment of planting. This procedure activates the growth of the tree and stimulates the emergence of young shoots, allows physiological balance in the crown of the tree. The event is important not only for overgrown trees. When the annual growth of new shoots slows down (this can sometimes happen as early as 6-7 years), and the yield decreases, or the tree is severely damaged by hail or frost. Rejuvenating pruning of this fruit crop may be required in 10-15 years (depending on the variety and the strength of the tree's growth). The event takes place as follows:

• the stem is shortened to a height of 2 m;
• eliminate dry, sick, shoots going inside to the central conductor (sanitary pruning);
• then thinning is carried out: three main skeletal branches are selected, the rest are cut "on a ring";
• on the remaining shoots, in total, up to 30% of last year's growth is removed: 25–30 cm are cut off (pruning "to the bud") - the upper branches are cut over the lateral ones growing outward;
• cut root growth.

Shoots that form at the base of the stem are quite common on the plum. This is due to the fact that plum is a self-rooted fruit crop.Root shoots grow especially actively in the 4-6th year after planting - these shoots should be completely cut out at the base, including during rejuvenating pruning.

Plums over 10-15 years old need rejuvenation

Rejuvenation of the main branches and fruit wood leads to the fact that a large number of new growths are formed in all parts of the crown. These increments require a certain amount of pruning, which should be done or already in the summer.

Pruning plums in autumn Summer cottage, garden, vegetable garden, indoor plants

Plum branches of small sizes are very fond of intertwining. As a result, the fruiting of the tree is reduced and it can be harmed. And the goal of any gardener is precisely to collect a high-quality and large harvest. To increase the number of harvested berries, a specially developed scheme for pruning plums in the fall and other periods of the year, which, unfortunately, is often ignored by young gardeners.

Pruning plums in the fall: diagram, timing, tips for beginners

Pruning plums in the fall is part of a whole range of activities aimed at preparing the tree for winter every year. A number of features, sometimes negative, arising in the process of natural growth, can be overcome with the help of correct and timely pruning of the plum. Which ones?

• the appearance of frost cracks in acute angles of discharge;
• faults and splitting off of thick branches;
• the formation of forks;
• growth of tops even on young plums;
• weak growth and lack of growth of new wood;
• early exposure of branches due to a short life and freezing of fruit buds in winter.

Plum pruning tools and materials

The required minimum is a high-quality garden pruner (preferably two types - with an "anvil" for dry branches and a bypass for live branches with a diameter of 10 mm or more) and a solid hacksaw. Of other tools, fixtures and materials you may need:

• lopper (the same pruner, but with more cutting force and long arms);
• bow saw (for continuous work with thick branches);
• garden knife (for eliminating irregularities in cuts and other delicate work);
• electric or chainsaw (for working with dry wood);
• ladder;
• copper sulfate (for disinfection of saw cuts);
• oil paint based on drying oil, Kuzbasslak (for the treatment of large wound surfaces after disinfection).

Preparation of tools for work is carried out in advance: sharpening of cutting surfaces and chains for saws, checking fasteners, preparing solutions.

Pruning dates in the fall

In the middle lane, the forming and supporting pruning of stone fruit crops is carried out mainly in spring and summer.

This is due to the fact that plum is a relatively thermophilic plant and, in unpredictable climatic conditions, wounds caused by pruning can cause its death after winter.

The fact is that in places where it is cut, wood quickly dries up at negative temperatures, and this can cause freezing. Therefore, autumn is only a time for sanitizing plums, which includes:

• removal of dry and diseased branches;
• fight against overgrowth;
• pruning bruised or broken branches under the weight of the harvest;
• removal of stumps formed as a result of incorrect previous pruning.

Regulatory pruning of plums for fruiting: dazzle, pinching, kerbovka

This type of pruning keeps the crown tidy and balances the growth and fruiting of the tree. That is, growth and flower buds, as well as young shoots are distributed evenly along the entire perimeter of the crown.

Regulatory pruning of the crown is carried out in order to lighten the crown and preserve its specified parameters, it is applied in relation to the entire tree, and not to its individual parts.

This pruning is carried out in the summer and includes several types.

• Blinding buds (most often used for young trees) - removing unwanted buds. They are cut out at the base, grabbing part of the wood.

  

  The buds are cut at the base, grabbing a piece of wood

• Fracture of shoots, applied to growth-tops and fattening branches. The shoot is broken off by hand at the base. The cut is acceptable for mature trees, where the clarification of the buds is quite labor-intensive.
• Pinching - pinching the top of a part of a young shoot (performed without tools). To do this, count 5 buds (branch length up to 20 cm) on a young growth and pinch it with your fingers. Pinching is carried out on trees at any age.
• Kerbovka - a longitudinal or cruciform cut above the kidney, stimulating its development. The method is applicable to young trees.

  

  Kerbovka is more commonly used for regulating pruning of young trees.

Regulatory pruning helps to form the crown in summer and better prepare young shoots for winter.

Video: ways to lighten the crown of fruit trees

How to prune a 2 year old plum sapling the next season after planting

Plum at different ages has its own specifics of pruning: young trees do not need shaping, and old trees need rejuvenation - this is shaping and sanitary thinning at the same time. Experienced gardeners say that it is better not to touch plum saplings immediately after planting. If the plum is planted on the site in the spring, then only in the summer, after the young tree grows shoots, the intervention of the pruner will be required.

A plum seedling is pruned in the following summer:

• after landing, the central conductor is trimmed to a height of 0.8–1 m;
• leave a bare stem nd to a height of 30 cm (extra shoots are removed);
• choose 2-4 strong skeletal branches, spaced evenly from each other (at a distance of about 10 cm), the rest are removed;
• the selected skeletal shoots are shortened by 5–10 cm to stimulate annual growth.

  

  Formation of the first (and 1 shoot of the future second tier) two-year-old plum when planting

In plum saplings with weak shoots in the first year, the shoots on the trunk are not cut out, but pinched, which contributes to the development of shoots for the first tier.

As a rule, at this age, other manipulations with the pruning shears are not required. By autumn, the plum seedling will have 4–6 strong shoots. After pruning in the summer, it is recommended to feed and water the tree.

When to prune in spring or fall

Based on the opinion of gardeners with experience in pruning, we can conclude that the work is better done in the spring. But autumn pruning is also acceptable. Work begins after flying around the foliage, but before the first frost appears. If you follow these simple rules, the tree will have time to prepare for winter. When circumcising, they are guided by regional characteristics. These include:

• weather;
• soil features;
• the age of the tree.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, pruning should be started from early September to mid-October. It is necessary to remove the affected branches and those that do not form a crown. In the middle lane, the Moscow region, the Volga region is cut from the middle to the end of October. Remove rotten, affected branches as in the picture.

Formation of the crown of a young plum tree by years

Plum formation begins in the 2nd year after planting. This is one of the most important pruning activities. The formation of the crown is designed to partially lighten the plum, to obtain a neat tree, with a ventilated crown and good access to sunlight. When properly formed, the stem is not overloaded, it is convenient to harvest from a plum tree. It is necessary to immediately determine what kind of crown should become in the future: sparse-tiered, in the form of a bowl or bush.

Photo gallery: types of plum crown

Sparse-tiered crown shape

Cup-shaped crown

Shrub crown shape

The difference is that stone fruits are formed on a lower stem. For cherries it is 30–40 cm, for plums - from 10 to 60 cm, depending on the winter hardiness of the variety.The more winter-hardy the variety, the higher the crown can be laid.

I. Okuneva

The formation of a plum crown in a sparse-tiered and bowl-shaped form is considered the most suitable - it is convenient to spray the tree and harvest.

Sparse tiered

Such a crown is formed from 5–7 skeletal branches of the first order, which are evenly spaced in two, less often three tiers.

The first tier is formed already at planting, if the seedlings, in addition to the central conductor, also have lateral branches, usually two years old.

In the 2nd year after planting, the plum needs sanitary and formative pruning.

• The tree needs sanitary pruning (dry, frozen branches are removed).
• Last year's growth is cut in half, their length will be approximately (40-60 cm) - these branches form the 2nd and 3rd tier (on skeletal shoots, 2-3 branches).
• Perennial branches are not pruned if they are less than 60 cm. They only require summer regulating pruning (see above).

In the spring of the third year, sanitary and regulatory pruning is repeated, and the formation is continued. In the first case, competitors and spinning tops growing inside the crown are removed. They try not to touch the horizontal branches - as a rule, ovaries are laid on them. A sparse-tiered plum crown is formed on a trunk up to 0.6-0.8 m high. A three-year-old plum crown usually consists of 3-4 evenly sparse tiers (with an interval between branches of 15-20 cm) and has up to 5 skeletal shoots, the height of the tree at that time is about 2 m - this is a formed sparse-tiered crown. In the future, the tree only needs sanitary pruning and regulation of annual growth.

The sparse-tiered crown of a plum tree formed in three years

When pruning, plums leave the strongest and strongest side branches, with good directionality and good orientation. Long, thin twigs-tops are removed when pruning plums in order to increase the overall yield and quality of the fruit.

Video: how to form a sparse-tiered crown of a fruit tree

Forming a crown in the form of a bowl

To form a bowl-shaped crown, a plum tree sapling must be shortened already in the year of planting - a central conductor with a height of 0.5–0.6 m is left.

When forming a bowl-shaped plum crown, the skeletal branches of the tree emerge from one point, or the distance between the shoots is 5–7 cm (improved bowl-shaped crown). Experts say that with such a formation, it is desirable that the upper branch is directed to the north - this prevents the shoots from stretching towards the sun.

In the 2nd year from the moment of transplanting the tree to a permanent place, 3-4 symmetrically located lateral shoots are left and allow them to develop freely (the distance between the skeletal branches is about 15 cm). By the end of the season, each skeletal branch has an increase - 2–4 branches - in July, they are pinched. In the 3rd year, the selected skeletal branches are shortened to 50 cm (approximately 10 buds are left), sanitary pruning is carried out (described above).

Pruning fruit shoots of plums in the 3rd year

Pruning a bowl-shaped plum in the 3rd year: starting from the tops of the skeletal branches, the lateral ones are alternately pruned for the harvest and for the growth of new shoots for the next harvest, namely: one well-developed and conveniently located branch is shortened into 8-12 healthy groups of buds (in a group 2 floral and 1 leaf in the middle). This year's harvest is formed on it. Below it, the branch is cut for growth, 2-3 buds. The next branch is cut back into 8-12 groups of buds for harvest.

In the future, only the regulation of the development of the annual growth on these shoots is required.

Formation of a plum crown in the shape of a bowl (by years): a-1 year; b - 2 years; c - 3 years; d - 4 years

With this shape of the crown, the plum often needs props, especially during the period of active fruiting (trees over 4 years old).

Video: forming a plum with a bowl

How to form a bush plum

To obtain a bush plum, when planting, the seedling is shortened to a stem length of 35–40 cm, while 2–4 shoots are left just below the cut. In the 2nd year from the moment the tree is planted on the site, proceed as follows.

1. Skeletal branches are cut, leaving a length of about 40–45 cm.

   

   Formation of bush plum in the 2nd year after planting

2. All shoots located on the trunk up to a height of 0.3 m are cut "on the ring".
3. Grown up shoots of the second order (yearlings) are shortened in the same way (by 10-15 cm).

   

   Shortening shoots on a bush plum for the 2nd year after planting

In the 3rd year, sanitary and regulatory pruning is carried out in the spring. In order to further form a bush on a three-year-old plum, they prune last year's growth - leave the length of the shoots about 0.5 m (as a rule, the plum at this moment has from 4 to 7 shoots, each with 2 branches). At this age, the plum is considered to be formed and in the future it only needs regulatory and sanitary pruning.

The bush form is better adapted to winter frosts. However, make sure that the shoots growing strongly from below are higher than the grafting site (do not leave wild ones). And spread them wider, with guy wires. The branches should not interfere with each other.

toliam1

Shrub form of the plum crown in the 3rd year after planting

The bush crown is formed from 2–4 skeletal shoots with one branching order, prevailing in height above the central conductor. Typically, these skeletal branches grow from the bottom of the tree (at a height of no more than 20–35 cm) and eventually deviate at an angle of 45 degrees. Each branch has a freely growing growth - from 3 to 5 shoots - it is recommended to pinch them in the summer and carry out regular thinning of the crown. This type of crown is easy to maintain and does not require extra labor.

Pruning plum according to Kurdyumov

Nikolai Kurdyumov, author of books on natural agriculture, an experienced gardener and gardener with diverse experience in growing horticultural crops, advises to deal with plum seedlings according to the algorithm for forming a longline crown proposed above. But in the second year of tree growth, he advises to regulate the annual growth - to cut off the tops by 15–20 cm and carry out sanitary pruning if necessary. In the same year, 2-3 last year's branches are folded at an angle of 50-80 degrees (the degree of inclination depends on the thickness of the shoot). In the 3rd year, the author of the technique suggests doing the same with another pair of branches - they are tilted, tied with twine, using spacers.

The optimal shape of the plum tree crown is considered to be sparse-tiered. The stem should not be higher than 30–40 cm. No more than 3 branches should be left at the bottom, tier 2 should consist of 2-3 branches, further tiers should have 1 branch each. To prevent the tree from breaking, it is worth leaving in the role of the main those branches that extend from the tree trunk at an angle not exceeding 40 degrees. It is important to leave a distance of at least 60 cm between the tiers, a distance of 15 cm should be observed between the branches, while single branches should be placed at a distance of 30–40 cm. In order to completely cover the main branches with overgrowing, it is important to monitor the absence of bare areas. For these purposes, a differentiated shortening system is used. Those trees that have medium to strong bud awakening, annual branches should be cut at ¼ of their length. If the awakening is low, then by 1/3, those branches that have a very weak awakening must be cut by 1/2.

N. Kurdyumov

Pruning plums according to the Kurdyumov method

Curved shapes are the slightly tweaked natural shapes of a tree laden with fruit. Therefore, they are at the same time so simple and close to the woody nature. The lower branches of the trees bend themselves under the weight of the fruit. But at first, they grow long and powerfully, without producing fruit, and then quickly grow old, giving food to the top leaders. We just force them to become fruitful earlier, and make them live longer, keeping the branches in balance.And we adjust the uniformity of their fouling, shortening the shoots and helping to tie the fruit. Well, we leave as many branches as necessary. At the same time, the tree is low and comfortable.

N. Kurdyumov

Video: pruning plum according to Kurdyumov

At the end of July, 3-4 year old plums undergo slight pruning: the annual growth is shortened again to a length of 25-30 cm, and improperly growing shoots are removed - curves close to each other or stem.

The final step of the next pruning is top dressing, accompanied by further abundant watering.

Having familiarized yourself thoroughly with one of the pruning techniques for plums, you can safely proceed to the event. Getting a plum tree with annual fruiting and a neat crown is not difficult at all: a well-sharpened tool and mastered the basics of pruning are the first assistants in this matter. In fact, pruning will not be difficult, and with a competent approach, success in this matter is guaranteed. The main thing to remember is that the yield and longevity of a tree depend not only on correct pruning. The skill of the gardener, adherence to agricultural technology in conjunction with the weather conditions and the climate of the region are no less significant factors affecting the efficiency of growing plums.

Loosening the soil to provide the roots with oxygen

And again, back to feeding. Mineral fertilizers must be applied to loose soil, for which it must be dug to a depth of about 10 centimeters, that is, by about a third of a shovel's bayonet. It is impossible to deeper close to the trunk, so as not to damage the roots, if you step back a meter from the trunk, soil processing by 20 centimeters or more is allowed. But this is only one of the obligatory autumn loosening. Do not forget about frequent rains, after each of them clear weather sets in and the sun bakes the sodden earth to a crusty state. Because of this, oxygen ceases to flow to the roots, which has a very negative effect on the development of the tree. Therefore, after each rain, we take a hoe and carefully loosen the soil.

Loosening the soil around the plum tree

Another reason for a thorough autumn digging of soil is the presence of siderates planted around the plum, they need to be dug in by winter in order to provide the root system with organic matter for the future. Here you will need a shovel, the layers of earth must be turned over so that the stems are under the top layer of the soil and after a while turn into humus. The main pre-winter loosening is carried out after the leaves have fallen off and a lot of autumn watering (as in the case of rain - protection from crust formation). In this case, you can dig in the mulch shallowly. In each of the above options, near the trunk, the shovel should be turned with the edge towards the tree, so the likelihood of chopping the roots is reduced.

Summing up

Pruning plums in autumn is considered an optional but very important procedure. It helps maintain the health of the plant, forms its crown and regulates the growth of branches.

• October 17, 2018
• in Plum
• Alexey Viktorovich

Pruning is done so that the fruit trees grow to the correct height and with a sturdy trunk that can support the weight of the crop. Correct crown formation ensures the timely start of fruiting and the extension of this period for several years, and also makes it possible to get a bountiful harvest every year. For several reasons, pruning plums is best done in the fall.