Planting and caring for garden blackberries: 5 golden rules

Perennial berry bushes are usually planted in 2 terms - in autumn and spring. Newbie gardeners are afraid to plant blackberries for the winter, while experienced gardeners, on the contrary, choose autumn as the best time to start a new garden. Oddly enough, both sides are right - each method has its own advantages. The choice of the optimal timing is tied to objective circumstances.

Blackberry in the garden

The blackberry plant belongs to the Pink family, which in turn belongs to the Rubus genus. It is a semi-shrub with erect or spreading stems, which are covered with a large number of thorns. Recently, several thornless hybrids have been bred, which greatly simplifies harvesting, and pruning blackberries in the fall is much easier and more pleasant.

In the wild, blackberries can be found in forests, near marshy places and rivers, where there are damp and humid lands. You can meet such bushes on the territories of many continents: America, Europe and Asia. Of course, pruning of blackberries in the fall is carried out only in summer cottages and in gardens. In nature, branches are woven into dense growth and form large thickets. Walking through the forest, you can enjoy the wild berries of this plant.

Blackberry belongs to perennial shrubs, its height can reach 4 meters. It has a powerful root that grows deep in the ground, making it drought-resistant. The large leaf of this plant consists of 5-7 small ones, connected by a common petiole. They are green on top and light on the underside. The leaves are pubescent and have small thorns. Blackberries bloom at the end of June with large white flowers, which are collected in panicles. The fruits begin to ripen by August. Since flowering lasts until the end of autumn, the collection of berries is also lengthy. When ripe, the blackberry fruits first acquire a green color, then pink, brown, and the berry ready to eat has a black color. Of the large number of varieties, the blackberry garden is popular. Care (pruning, watering, feeding, etc.) for this variety does not differ from caring for other species of this plant.

Blackberry is an unpretentious plant, this is due to the fact that it was cultivated from a wild plant. In nature, it grows in humid places and, thanks to its deep roots, it feeds on moisture from the ground almost all summer.

However, at home, the plant should still be given some attention. This applies to soil, watering and reproduction. Pruning blackberries for the winter is also important. This strengthens the root of the plant and strengthens the bush.

Fertilization and top dressing are the key to a good harvest

Blackberries need feeding every spring. nitrogen fertilizers that will stimulate the growth of annual shoots - this is another golden rule. To do this, 50 g of ammonium nitrate is introduced under each bush, sealing it to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Every 3-4 years, the shrub in the garden needs to be fed and other macronutrients. This procedure is carried out after harvesting. At the rate of 1 m2, the following is introduced into the soil under the plant:

• compost or humus 10 kg;
• superphosphate 100 g;
• potassium sulfate 30 g.

Blackberries need feeding with ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, humus
It should be remembered that nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring... Also, this mineral is found in large quantities in pig manure and chicken droppings.

Blackberry fertilization activities can be combined by spraying with 1% bordeaux liquid, which will inhibit the development of microorganisms. For additional prevention of diseases, the area under the bushes must be cleaned of fallen leaves.

Formation of upright bushes

A wire is pulled near a young bush and supports are made so that the branches can be tied up. In the first year after planting, all shoots are fixed on one side, and the next - on the other. When lateral shoots appear, they are cut off, leaving 3-4 buds. Fruiting occurs on second-year branches. Pruning blackberries in the fall consists in removing the branches on which the fruits were. They are cut off and carefully removed from the wire so as not to damage the rest. Such pruning of blackberries for the winter allows you to make room for new shoots, which are braided in place of the old ones.

Thorn bush garter

For creeping shrub species, you will need a trellis with 3-4 rows of wire with a distance of 50 cm between them.

In the first year of development, 2-3 shoots are fan-shaped to the lower wires. Annual shoots are directed to the center of the bush, tying them to the uppermost wire.

Before the onset of cold weather, young shoots are removed from the support and make a shelter for the winter.

Stems of erect blackberry varieties tied to a trellis with a slight slope to one side. When new shoots grow during the growing season, they also need to be tied up. This time, the slope is made in the opposite direction from the fruiting branches.

A feature of growing blackberries is the need to shade the shrub during the ripening of the fruit. Exposure to direct sunlight negatively affects the commercial quality of the fruit. To do this, shade nets are pulled along the rows of shrubs.

Formation of creeping bushes

The branches are selected by power, 6-8 pieces, and tied to the supports in a fan-like manner, they can also be placed close to each other. Garden blackberries, care (pruning and garter) for which occurs in this way, can densely braid the supports. It can be planted near a fence, although this reduces the amount of yield due to poor passability of solar heat and light. It is also recommended to remove several lower buds on each branch. With the development of shoots and ripening of fruits, they can be smeared on the ground or simply deteriorate from watering.

When to plant optimally in different regions

The planting time for blackberries in autumn is determined by the peculiarities of the local climate. It takes 25-30 days to root a bush. Accordingly, about a month should remain before the first frost. Be guided by the air temperature: the most favorable indicator is 12-17 ° C.

Timing for different regions:

• Ukraine, southern Russia - end of October and the first two decades of November;
• Moscow region and the middle zone of Russia - the last decade of September and the first half of October;
• Northwest region - all September;
• Ural, Siberia - end of August and first half of September.

  
  Golden autumn in the garden - the time for planting many shrubs, including blackberries

If you are guided by the lunar calendar, the days of the full moon and new moon are immediately excluded. Root growth is best on the growing moon. Auspicious days for disembarkation in 2019 are 1, 2, 10, 11, 15, 16, 20, 21, 26 October and 1-3, 22, 23, 29, 30 November.

Video: the timing of planting blackberry seedlings in the fall

Reproduction

Blackberries can be propagated by root suckers or by rooting green tops. These methods are easy and do not require special skills or equipment. When propagating with root suckers, it is necessary in early spring to dig up a small piece of the lateral root and transfer it to a permanent place of growth. It is planted in prepared soil, where it must be placed horizontally.

The next year, by autumn, you can separate the shoots from the mother bush, having previously checked the presence of roots and their strength. If necessary, the process can be repeated or left to take root for another year.

Landing differences in different areas

There are certain features of planting blackberries for regions with different climatic conditions.

Krasnodar region

Risk factors: lack of moisture, dry wind;

Ways to solve the problem: late planting (until mid-December) with high-quality watering and mandatory mulching.

Moscow region and Central region of Russia

Risk factors: lack of moisture, frost;

Ways to solve the problem: landing in late October - early November (rainy period). Mulching is designed to protect the seedling from frost.

Northwest region

Risk factors: wetlands;

Ways to solve the problem: landing in late October - early November (rainy period). Mulching is designed to protect the seedling from frost.

Siberia

Risk factors: severe frosts and winds;

Ways to solve the problem: you need to take care of wind protection - to correctly place the landing. All operations on the garden must be completed before the first frost. It is imperative to mulch the beds and put up shields for snow retention.

It will not be superfluous to remind once again - all varieties must be zoned. For example, southern large-fruited early varieties accustomed to droughts will die in conditions of high humidity in the North-West.

Correctly (and at the optimal time) planting carried out guarantees a good survival rate of seedlings and a quick spring start of growth processes.

Top dressing

After the correct planting of the blackberry bush, fertilization is not required for 2-3 years. Starting from the fourth year, it is necessary to apply a good layer of rotted manure under the bush every autumn after pruning. Also, during the spring-summer period, feed with fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Blackberries, pruning and caring for which takes place according to the rules, annually pleases with abundant flowering and a good harvest. The berries are collected from the bush in several stages, since the flowering is stretched for a long period. Blackberries are very useful, and the bush does not need careful care, so keeping such a plant on your site will not be a hassle. Pruning blackberries in the fall, timely watering in spring and summer - and there will always be blackberries on the table until the end of autumn.

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A healthy and well-groomed plant easily tolerates winter, gives high and stable yields. To increase fruiting at the end of the season, a set of measures is used to improve the growing conditions, including pruning branches, garter and shelter of the crop for the winter. If you cut the blackberries correctly in the fall, the bush will form faster in the spring, over the summer it will become lush, young strong shoots will appear, and large berries will be tied.

Preparing a site for planting a seedling: where is it better to plant, in the sun or in the shade?

For growing blackberries you need to choose a place well lit by the sun and protected from northern winds... In the shade, young shoots of the plant will grow poorly, stretch out, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.

A good option is planting along the fence, where the shrubbery will be protected from the winds and the stems from breakage. In this case, you need to retreat from the fence by 1 m so that the plant does not get too shaded. The shrub is best located on the southern or southwestern side of the site.

To plant blackberries, you need breathable and well-drained soil. Loams are ideal with a humus layer of at least 25 cm.

For planting blackberries, choose well-lit areas, loamy, well-drained soils.

The occurrence of groundwater at the site should be no higher than 1.5 meters.If these indicators are violated, the roots of the plant will be damp and cold, which significantly affects winter hardiness and yield indicators.

To plant a thorny shrub, a planting site must be prepared in advance. All weeds are removed, plant waste is destroyed, preventive spraying is carried out against pathogens and pests.

For growing blackberries saline, rocky, sandy and swampy areas are not suitable.

Severely depleted soils need to be nourished with essential macronutrients. For this, the site is dug to a depth of 30-35 cm, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

Why do you need an autumn pruning

Blackberry is a plant with a two-year fruiting cycle. In the first year, the culture develops and forms strong shoots. The buds that appear are cut off so that they do not draw nutrients from the stems.

In the second season, the branches grow stiff, flower buds appear, and the shrub produces sweet black berries. To stimulate flowering next summer, you need to prune your blackberries for the winter. If this is not done, the fruits will not set in the third year.

Pruning promotes plant rejuvenation and active shoots... Pinching the apex in the first year stimulates the growth of the lateral processes. Removing old branches and dry tips allows young shoots to ripen and grow stronger faster. Last year's stems should not be left behind, even if they are lush and strong. They will obstruct normal air movement, causing the bush to weaken, mold and rot. Such a plant can die before spring or recover for a long time after wintering.

Pruning is also carried out in order to thin out bushes that are too thick. All types of blackberries are photophilous, do not tolerate slight shading. Excessive bushiness prevents the penetration of sunlight to the middle of the plant, complicates the harvest. In summer, with a lack of lighting, the berries grow sour and small, young branches slow down in growth and do not have time to ripen. In the fall, long stems are more difficult to cover to protect from the cold, so lush dwarf shrubs are less frost-resistant.

Turnaround time

Pruning blackberries in the fall for novice gardeners is a rather laborious process, since when forming a bush, you need to divide the branches into age parts (annuals, biennials), and the presence of thorns complicates the work. Trimming and placing the lashes can take days.

Autumn pruning is performed from August 30 to the end of October... For gardeners without experience, it is better to start shortening the lashes immediately after fruiting. It is important to finish the work a month before the onset of frost in order to carry out pre-winter feeding, and a sufficient amount of sunlight will help the plant to recover, accumulate nutrients and get stronger.

Benefits of autumn planting

The choice of the optimal timing for planting a new bed of blackberries is no different from other crops.

Benefits of planting in the fall:

1. Large selection of planting material... Nurseries and horticultural shops fill the market with seedlings - by the spring season there is a shortage of many varieties, there is an illiquid stock, which in many cases has hardly endured the winter;
2. Soil moisture... After the autumn planting, the blackberry bush does not need watering until next year - snow and rains provide enough moisture;
3. Root system in winter, slowly, but it develops - in spring the blackberry meets well-rooted and significantly outstrips the bushes of spring planting in growth;
4. Less worries... There is no need to worry about the safety of the planting material.

Depending on the climatic conditions, the autumn planting of blackberries is carried out at different times:

• in the Central region - from the 2nd decade of October to mid-November;
• in Krasnodar, planting continues until mid-December.

Prerequisites specifically for blackberries are warmed up and prepared soil. As for the first point - autumn is better; in spring it is easy to miss the moment when the soil has already warmed up, but the sweltering heat has not come. In the fall, it is simply not necessary to talk about the need to control soil heating. As for the preparation of the site, here the conditions are rather equal, for spring planting, you can prepare the site in the fall, and in the fall 2-3 weeks before planting.

Bush cultivation tools

For work, you need to prepare a lopper and pruner. If the diameter of the lignified shoots exceeds 1.5 cm, a garden saw is used.

Prune blackberry bushes with a clean and sharp instrument... Sharp blades make the process easier and faster. The special sharpening of the teeth on the saw and the special setting angle allow cutting branches in two directions. After working with the tool, even and smooth edges remain, which looks more neat. This treatment reduces the risk of contamination of the shrub.

For stems less than 1.5 cm thick, a pruner is used. The device should not break, chew and split twigs, leave uneven cuts. If this happens, choose a tool with the smallest gap between the blades. Anvil pruning shears are suitable for thorny shrubs. When pruning, the tool is constantly held at one angle so as not to break the stem.

Landing scheme

For powerful blackberry bushes with long shoots up to 4.0 ... 5.0 m thickening of plantings is unacceptable:

• the feeding area decreases;
• the plant receives less sunlight;
• difficult to care for the landing.

As a result of thickening, the yield decreases, the bushes get sick.

With a single planting of bushes, it is necessary to leave a distance of about 2.0 m in each direction from the planting pit. The distance to the nearest buildings, including fences, should not be less than 1.5 meters.

For convenient placement of berry bushes on a trellis, blackberries are planted in rows. The distance between the seedlings depends on the variety and type of plant, the features of the trellis arrangement and agricultural techniques.

Upright species (most of them are remontant)

• in a row: 1.5 - 2.5 m *;
• between rows: not less than 2.0 m *.

Creeping and semi-creeping forms

• in a row: 2.5 - 3.0 m *;
• between rows: not less than 2.5 m. *

Mothers

• in a row: not less than 3.0 m *;
• between rows: not less than 3.0 m *.

Industrial plantations with intensive farming

• in a row: 0.7 - 1.0 m;
• between rows: 1.7 - 2.0 m;

* Data are indicated under conditions of cultivation in private farms and manual processing of plantings.

A high density of plants (40-45 bushes per 1 hundred square meters) is possible only with intensive agricultural technology - drip irrigation, intensive fertilizing, etc.

Forming and placing whips

There are blackberry bushes with creeping and erect stems, thornless varieties and with numerous straight or curved thorns. As the berry bushes grow and develop, young lashes are tied to a support. Blackberry bushes should not grow in a free direction.

Without a garter, long young and old stems are intertwined, making it difficult to form a bush. On creeping varieties that are located on the ground, the lashes will quickly take root, and the berries will rot. The use of special trellises facilitates pruning and harvesting.

There are two methods of forming a bush:

1. The fan-shaped (vertical) method is used for upright species. The stems of the plant are fixed on a fan-shaped support. Last year's branches are tied vertically, young shoots are placed horizontally on the sides. After harvesting, the fan ribs are trimmed above the ground. The central old branches are removed at the root, new shoots are collected in a bunch, shortened to a height of 1.5 m and loosely fixed on the trellis.
2. The rope (horizontal) method is suitable for the formation of clinging and creeping species.Long flexible stems are spirally wound on the support on one side, the growing shoots are similarly fixed on the other side. With this method of garter, the collection of fruits will alternate every year. In the fall, the fruit-bearing lashes, weak and damaged young shoots are completely cut off.

How to plant in open ground

Planting pits and substrate are prepared in 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

The blackberry root system is more powerful and penetrates deeper than other berry crops. Therefore, the pits need to be made more voluminous. The best way - adhere to parameters 40x40x40 cm.

Untreated shrub varieties are placed at a distance of 1 m, creeping plants at 1.5 m. 2 m are left between the rows.

Organic matter and minerals need to be added to each hole:

• compost or humus 5 kg;
• superphosphate 120 g;
• potassium sulfate 40 g.

The nutrient components are mixed with fertile soil and the resulting substrate is poured into a pit by 2/3 of the volume.

The shrub is planted vertically with a deepening of the root collar 1.5-2 cm... In light sandy loam soils, they are buried up to 3 cm.

The blackberry is planted vertically with a deepening of the root collar of 1.5-3 cm, covered with a substrate and watered

Blackberry roots are placed in a hole, straightened and covered with a substrate. In this case, the hole is not completely filled, leaving a distance of 1-2 cm to the soil level.

In this way, there will be a notch under each bush, which will contribute to the rational hydration of blackberries.

Then the surface of the substrate must be compacted and water the seedling with 5-6 liters of water... After the spring planting of blackberries, the plant must be provided with regular watering for 40-50 days. After compaction of the soil, the trunk circle is mulched with sawdust, peat or straw.

Mulching the soil surface under a bush with peat or rotted manure with a layer of 15 cm will protect against weeds and prevent the appearance of dense crusts. Additionally, it is a source of balanced supply of nutrients to the blackberry roots.

Planting blackberries:

Culture care

Caring for fruiting bushes in the middle of autumn helps the plant to get stronger, preserve as many shoots as possible for the next season and lay fruit buds on young shoots.

Blackberry care in autumn:

Pruning rules

The scheme and complexity of the work depends on the age of the branches, variety and type of culture. Upright bushes form a large number of shoots from the underground part. Trimming the tops encourages the growth of lateral stems, which will tie flower buds and ripen the fruit.

Creeping highly branching species do not form root shoots, but form numerous lateral fruit shoots. During the summer period, vines more than 10 m long are densely intertwined, making it difficult to care for the plant.

Before pruning, the plant is examined, the condition of the shoot is determined. Healthy lashes are brown, shiny, bend easily, do not break. At the stage of bush formation, the intertwined stems are separated, the fruiting branches are separated from the young ones. Creeping varieties are removed from the trellis and laid on the ground. 5-10 strong shoots are left for the winter. They are marked with cloth tape to avoid accidentally cutting them off.

How to properly prune blackberries for the winter:

1. With the help of a pruner, the branches that have borne fruit are completely removed. They are cut at the root, leaving no tips on the surface of the soil.
2. Broken young twigs, thin, too short, damaged and diseased shoots are pruned.
3. In remontant varieties, all branches are cut below ground level.
4. For the formation of lateral shoots, annual stems are pinched immediately above the bud, straight varieties at a height of 2 m, creeping - 3 m.
5. When thinning bushes of straight-growing varieties, 4-7 strong shoots are left and 8-10 on creeping species. The distance between the shoots should be 8-10 cm.
6. Ripe young stems are cut into ¼ part, collected in a bunch, fixed on the ground or on a low support.
7. Stems that will winter without shelter are shortened to the same height - from 1.5 to 1.8 m.

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Pre-winter watering and feeding

After removing the shoots, the blackberries are fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Compost with the addition of superphosphate is dug under each bush. Carefully dig the soil under the thornless blackberry bushes. In case of damage to the root system, offshoots with thorns may appear on some varieties.

If the autumn is warm and without rain, the blackberries are watered abundantly before the shelter. At least 20 liters of water are poured under each bush. The soil will retain high humidity, the root system will continue to grow and the plant will not weaken by winter.

To protect the blackberry bush from pests hiding in the soil for the winter, copper sulfate or 3% hydrogen peroxide solution is used. The aerial part of the plant is sprayed with a liquid, the soil is disinfected. For blackberry roots, peroxide serves as a useful fertilizer, enriching them with oxygen.

Bush shelter

Cultivated varieties are less resistant to severe frosts than shrubs in the forest. Blackberries, grown and brought from the northern regions, tolerate the winter well. Creeping species can withstand temperatures as low as -16 ° C, upright species - up to -20 ° C. Before the shelter, fallen leaves are raked up from under the bushes, the beds are mulched with dry humus. Blackberry stems are bent to the ground, laid in a trench on a prepared bedding, fixed with hooks to the soil or metal arcs. The litter is laid out from needles, grass cuttings, thin branches, bark.

Creeping species easily bend and fold into a circle, and upright branches do not lend themselves to sharp bends and can be broken. In order not to damage the plant, after pruning, a load is fixed at the tops of the stems. Under the weight, the branches will gradually tilt and lie on the ground. They are tied with twine, treated with copper sulfate, and pressed with boards from above.

For the upper shelter, agrofibre or organic insulation (corn, straw, wood chips, reeds, leaves, grass) is used. Film as the main cover is not suitable. It is spread with an additional top layer on an insulating material to protect it from moisture. Organic insulation retains heat well, but in spring, rotten and damp plants are difficult to remove from thorny bushes.

In winter, wet foliage attracts rodents, which harm the young stems of blackberries. To do this, a seed from pests is placed in the middle of the bush. Insulation made from pine needles, spruce and pine branches prevents pests from starting. Lapnik is laid on the plant together with a film or agrofibre.

Besshorny varieties are covered with green manure, for the winter - with peat and 4-5 layers of dense spunbond. The non-woven fabric is dropped or pressed with long boards.

The future harvest depends on the autumn work in the garden. Timely care of blackberries and control of shoot growth allows next year to collect from 1.2 to 1.6 kg of tasty and medicinal berries from each bush.

A semi-shrub from the Pink family from the Rubus genus has long been known to gardeners, which is actively cultivated in summer cottages and backyards. Bushes are distinguished by varieties of blackberries and by the presence and absence of thorns, which greatly complicate the pruning of this prickly culture. Recently, hybrid varieties of blackberries without thorny thorns, as a rule, with large sweet fruits, have become widespread. These varieties greatly facilitate all care activities for them: from planting to preparation for winter storage through covering.

In addition, the difference is in spreading and erect stems, although both need supports (stakes or trellises). Caring for any variety of blackberries is not difficult, but the list of primary measures includes the correct autumn pruning and its correction in the spring.

No one cuts only wild-growing blackberries, but in this form it grows in impassable clumps. The berries are such, if they are sheltered in a lighted place, smaller in size, but they are not inferior in taste and aroma to those of the garden. Only to collect it because of its prickly density is a big hunt!

Caring for blackberries, as well as for raspberries, has both general measures, and purely blackberries, and it is precisely pruning in this matter that is almost the main thing - the health of the plant, and the quality with the amount of harvest, with the size and saturation of the color of the blackberry drupe, directly depends on it.

In addition, with proper autumn pruning, the root is strengthened and the whole bush is strengthened. Autumn pruning of bushes preceding the useful for all types of blackberries - winter-hardy and non-hardy. In either case, this is the way to a healthy plant and a rich harvest, especially since there is nothing difficult and impossible with such a shelter - you only need desire, awareness of the importance of the matter and time.

When is it more correct to plant a garden blackberry - in summer, autumn or spring? Timing selection

The yield and benefit potential of blackberry fruit is much wider than that of its closest relative, raspberry. However, gardeners do not seek to plant and grow this magnificent shrub on their site.

This is distinguished by the fact that plant varieties derived from southern forms have been cultivated for a long time. They found it difficult to take root in the planting region and led to massive disappointment of gardeners.

The situation changed after new relatively winter-hardy varieties have appeared, which are able to withstand temperatures as low as -30 C.

Therefore, for cultivation in the middle lane or more northern regions (in Siberia and the Urals), it is important to acquire varieties of modern selection.

To grow blackberries in the middle lane or more northern regions, you need to purchase varieties of modern selection

In spite of this, in the northern regions, the cultivation of blackberries is somewhat limited... This is due to uneven fruiting, the final period of which often coincides with the first frost and some of the fruits do not have time to ripen.

In addition, insufficient lighting leads to a loss of quality in ripe fruits.

Planting blackberries in autumn has more benefits and is most optimal in the middle and southern regions. After planting the shrub, a period with a stable and cool temperature will follow, high humidity will promote root development until the soil temperature drops to -4 ° C.

Blackberries very early come out of a state of relative dormancy and shrubs rooted in the fall will immediately begin to develop a vegetative mass.

In the fall, the selection of varieties and seedlings with a fresh root system is much more, and they cost less than the planting material sold in the spring.

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When planting in spring, the plant does not have time to root. due to too rapid warming and the beginning of sap flow, after which the active growth of shoots begins.

A weak root system is not able to provide the necessary nutrition, an increasing vegetative mass. This greatly weakens the shrub and affects the overall development.

Spring planting is preferred in northern regions and if the blackberry variety is characterized by weak winter hardiness.

In autumn, the plant should be planted at least 20-30 days before the first frost, in spring before bud break, when the air temperature rises to + 15 ° C.

For growing in a personal plot planting material must be purchased from reputable nurseries... The best survival rate is distinguished by annual seedlings with two stems, the thickness of which is at least 0.5 cm in diameter.

An important criterion is a formed bud on the roots... The optimum length of taproots is at least 10 cm.

Why prune blackberries in the fall

Considering that this pruning takes place in the fall before winter, it is she who prepares the plant, and helps it to successfully overwinter, as well as begin to develop correctly in the spring, it will give strong and healthy shoots. In addition, blackberry is a semi-shrub with a two-year cycle of stem development: the first summer, young shoots grow in whips, ripening, lignify.

In the second summer, these mature whips are covered with large white inflorescences, form a fruit ovary and give their delicious black drupes from July to August. The crop is harvested - the two-year-old whips that have bore fruit are no longer needed. They should be constantly cut at the root. Otherwise, the bushes will thicken, they will weaken so much that young shoots may not have time to form and even shaded berries will be less sweet.

Excessive presence of old wood due to shading of the middle stems reduces the frost resistance of the plant. Such bushes are difficult to form for a winter shelter. In addition, pruning of young lashes stimulates their flowering in the new season, and pruning itself leads to rationing of the crop. This, in turn, contributes to its complete and timely ripening and again enhances the power of the bush as a whole.

Parameters for the selection of seedlings for the winter

Blackberries have been cultivated since ancient times and planted in the garden plots of our ancestors. Therefore, a very large experience in growing crops has been created. Accordingly, there are many guidelines to follow.

It has been established that 100% of the planting material planted before winter takes root well, timely rooting takes place. We choose varieties for the region of residence, therefore, in the area where cold is characteristic, the type of blackberry is frost-resistant. It is the correct choice of the variety that comes to the successful wintering of the seedling. Such varieties are recommended to be planted by residents of Siberia and the Central regions.

What are the criteria by which a successful choice of material for planting is possible? Let's list the most important ones:

• always select a variety bred specifically for your region, area. Berry bushes react to unusual growing conditions;
• decided on a zoned choice. We take into account that erect (semi-creeping) species are more comfortable and steadfastly able to endure the winter cold;
• for the convenience of planting and subsequent care, we select varieties that do not have thorns. But do not forget, a plant without thorns can only be bred with cuttings of the stems. When root cuttings are used, the result may differ from the original, the plant grows with thorns;
• there are classic and remontant blackberry varieties. Each direction has its own characteristics. On annual shoots, fruit formation depends on quality care, proper feeding and nutritional quality. Mandatory fertilization system. This is all for the remontant blackberry. Plus in such varieties - they are less susceptible to any kind of disease. Hybrids are initially endowed with excellent immunity;
• every grower has a number of preferences when he comes to the nursery to buy a new variety. This takes into account the importance of the formation of shoots: low growth or grow taller.

The most important point when choosing a new seedling!

Already in the first year of life, a new plant should have a well-developed root system, the presence of several shoots, at least 5 mm thick. It is best to purchase seedlings whose root system is closed, that is, the roots are in a special container, well, in extreme cases, in an oilcloth bag. It is this planting material that has the ability to take root by 99%.

Blackberry varieties

Experienced and even novice gardeners have an idea of ​​the varieties of blackberries that they have chosen or are planning to buy for new plantings. The task seems to be that in our case they should be considered precisely from the point of view of their pruning for the winter.

More than 300 known varieties of garden blackberry are complex interspecific hybrids and are divided into groups:

• Kumanika or erect blackberry is a biological relative of raspberries. Its powerful, strongly prickly shoots reach a height of 3-4 meters, often ending in arched tops. The variety reproduces by root suckers and is characterized by winter hardiness. Berries ripen on average 2.5-4 grams.
• Creeping blackberry or Rosyanika - grows with creeping long shoots, densely equipped with thorns, which complicate all care on it, which is compensated by a rich harvest of large fruits: weighing 6-12 grams. Propagated by tops - does not give root processes.
• Half-growing Blackberry - develops with long, creeping stems, devoid of thorns. It is possible to propagate by root small suckers and tops of replacement shoots. The fruits are large, weighing up to 6 grams.

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In culture, there are also raspberry-blackberry hybrids - the result of crossing related plants. These hybrids are creeping dwarf shrubs with thorny stems, but thornless clones are also found. Their cultivation is the same as Rosyanika. Rosyanka, semi-creeping Blackberry and raspberry-blackberry hybrids are varieties of low winter hardiness and need timely proper shelter in regions with long frosty winters.

How to choose seedlings for autumn planting

The accumulated long-term experience of planting blackberry bushes for the winter shows that frost-resistant varieties take root well with almost a 100% guarantee - they should be given preference to gardeners of the Central region and Siberia.

Criteria for the successful selection of planting material:

1. for planting, only zoned varieties of berry bushes should be purchased;
2. when choosing from zoned ones, it should be borne in mind that erect (or semi-glazed) blackberry varieties tolerate cold winters much better;
3. for a more comfortable planting and subsequent care, it is better to choose varieties without thorns. It is important to remember that thornless varieties should be bred with stem cuttings. When using root cuttings, the output may turn out to be a plant with thorns;
4. when choosing between ordinary and remontant varieties, it should be borne in mind that the formation of berries on 1-year-old shoots requires careful care and adherence to the feeding regime of the bushes. On the other hand, remontant plants get sick less, hybrids have a high natural level of immunity;
5. Depending on their own preferences, when buying seedlings of a new variety, gardeners take into account the tendency to shoot formation, high or low.

The main selection criterion: 1-year-old seedling with a developed root system should have several shoots at least 0.5 cm thick. Preference should be given to seedlings with a closed root system (in a planting container) - such plants take root with an survival rate close to 100%.

When pruning blackberries in the fall

Pruning blackberries in the fall is the most important stage in preparing their bushes for winter shelter. It is best to prune in autumn in the second half of September, when the crop is completely removed. Shoots that bore fruit in the past season, unreliable shoots and extra branches are cut out.

Prune the shoots left for fruiting for the next season slightly to stimulate future lateral shoots. Cut the wood at the root, leaving no stumps, which can become a source of putrefactive flora and a wintering place for harmful insects.

We grow the stems of creeping varieties of Rosyaniki to a maximum length or at least 2 meters, if it becomes necessary to shorten them.

Planting methods for blackberries

Experienced gardeners are advised to choose zoned blackberry varieties.

Blackberries can be grown in two ways: bush and tape.It is important to know how to plant a blackberry in the fall correctly in one case or another, because the schemes and planting technologies have both similarities and fundamental differences.

Bush

The bush method is used for varieties that form few shoots.

Planting process:

1. Prepare pits with a diameter of 80 cm and a depth of 30–35 cm, the distance between plants is 2–2.5 m.
2. Pour a small amount of humus at the bottom of the pit, form a hill of fertile soil on top.
3. Place a seedling on an earthen slide, spread the roots and fill the hole with soil. When filling, it is important to ensure that no air pockets form.
4. Place the root collar of the seedling at a depth of no more than 3 cm from the soil surface.
5. Make a roller of soil along the diameter of the hole and water the plants abundantly, spending 1–1.5 buckets of water per bush.
6. Mulch the surface of the pit with peat, humus or sawdust.

Belt (private)

The belt planting method makes it easier to care for plants and promotes maximum ventilation of the bushes

Step-by-step guide (technology):

1. For planting from north to south, prepare trenches 120 cm wide and 30 cm deep, the distance between the rows is 200 cm.
2. Fill the trench 1/3 with prepared nutrient soil and water it abundantly, spending 1–1.5 buckets of water per bush.
3. Place the seedlings at a distance of 100–120 cm from each other, straightening the roots. If you plan to fan-shape the bushes, increase the distance to 200 cm.
4. Fill the trenches with soil up to 2 cm to the edge. Place the seedling growth point at a depth of 2 cm from the surface.
5. After planting, moisturize the plants abundantly. In a dry hot autumn, continue watering until a cold snap every 7 days. The soil should not dry out within 30 days, otherwise the suction roots will die.

Pruning blackberries in autumn

Experienced gardeners hardly need our guidance, and we hope that it will be quite useful for novice blackberry growers. Consider step by step appropriate and timely measures for pruning blackberries for the winter.

• we start by cutting off all the fruiting stems at the very root, without stumps;
• young stems, thin and short, with obvious signs of underdevelopment are also cut out;
• be sure to remove branches damaged by pests (aphids or spider mites), which may not survive the winter;
• young stems formed for fruiting in the next season need to be shortened by a quarter, which will positively affect the abundant formation of future flowering buds;
• taking into account the ability of the root system of blackberry bushes, for an average plant we leave 8-10 fruiting stems with a small margin;
• cut the ends of the upper parts of annual stems above the bud.

You should not be afraid to cut out extra shoots on a blackberry - its bushes have great vegetative strength. For him, thickening due to uncut last year's fruitful lashes is much more harmful.

It is very important in a timely manner, even in the spring, to make the correct shaping of kumanik bushes and dewweeds, so that autumn pruning for the winter becomes productive and not so cumbersome, in the spring it is necessary to correctly form both erect and creeping varieties, but each in its own way.

When to water, should you loosen?

Deeply buried, in comparison with other berry bushes, the root system of the blackberry makes the plant drought tolerant... But this does not mean that the plant should be left without irrigation and not watered.

Watering is especially needed during the period of fruit filling. and when hot weather is established. At this time, the wide leaf plates of the plant evaporate a large amount of moisture.

The optimal amount of water for an adult bush during the pouring of fruits is 15-20 liters per week. At other times, you need to focus on the state of the substrate and not let it dry out too much.

Several times during the growing season you need to loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 10 cmwhile removing weeds.

It is especially important to carry out the procedure in the fall, at the end of August, in September. The looser the soil, the less the soil will freeze through in the root layers.

How to prune blackberries

Erect blackberry Immediately in the spring, it should be formed on a trellis support in a fan-like manner: overwintered, difficult-to-bend shoots are lifted and tied vertically, placing them in the middle, and young shoots should be tied on both sides to the lower wire so that they grow horizontally.

In the fall, it will only be necessary to cut out the middle, fruiting stems at the root, and the side stems can only be sheltered from the cold in that bent state to which they got used to over the summer, leaving 8-10 of them the strongest. Remove the rest at the root without hemp. The stems left for wintering should be shortened, try, as their flexibility permits, pinned to the ground as low as possible and covered in a way that is safe for plants and in a way convenient for you.

In the spring, remove the shelter, wait for the temperature at which the stems warm up and become flexible enough to lift them in the center of the bush and fix them in an upright position, and young shoots on both sides on the lower wire of the trellis. And so it is necessary to alternate in spring and autumn in order to maintain the fanning position of the bush, which is convenient in all respects for the gardener.

Creeping varieties of garden blackberry are less hardy and cut differently. Although the creeping shoots are more flexible in comparison with the erect blackberry, it is rather difficult to remove and distribute its ten-meter thorny stems.

On such a blackberry, it will be correct to leave 8-10 young stems for future fruiting in the spring, without waiting for their many-meter stem. This saves the strength of the bush for fruiting, wood and other branches, although during the summer it is necessary to periodically cut off the emerging unwanted shoots.

On the trellis support, the creeping blackberry is also attached in the spring in a fan-like manner, but according to a different principle. This fan will be formed as follows: on one side, rejected stems that have wintered over the winter are fixed. We direct and also fix young shoots to the opposite side. If excess shoots were not removed during the summer, then it's time to do this during autumn pruning. Before pruning, the main stems are removed from the trellis and straightened on the ground so that they do not intertwine. Choose from among them 8-10 of the most impeccable. Cut off the remaining after rejection without hemp. Correctly cut stems are carefully placed in a trench for winter shelter until spring.

The opposite side of the "fan", which has borne fruit this season, must be cut off completely without hemp, and the cut stems must be burned so that they do not store blackberry pests until spring.

The easiest thing to do is pruning for the winter. garden blackberry remontant, because all that matters is to cut off completely all the wood that has grown over the summer, and for the winter it remains only to cover its root system. In the spring, young shoots will rise that are capable of bearing fruit. It is less difficult to prune thornless varieties of creeping blackberries according to all the rules described above both for pruning and for shelter for the winter.

Positive horticultural practice confirms that fan shaping of any variety of blackberries, especially for thorns, is the optimal form of caring for it at all stages and even more so when pruning for the winter. Compliance with these simple, by and large, rules will provide us with a good harvest of tasty healthy blackberries.

Frost protection for autumn planting

Having planted a blackberry in the fall, it is important to protect it from frost, so that from the beginning of spring, young bushes begin to actively increase the green mass.

In regions with snowy winters, additional protection is not required.If the snow cover is less than 30 cm, then the seedlings are bent to the ground and covered with non-woven material, and the soil, immediately before frost, is covered with a thick layer of mulch. In the spring, the shelter must be removed immediately after the onset of above-zero temperature in order to prevent the shoots from heating up.

Care throughout the season

Only careful care of the plant will allow you to get such a harvest.

Caring for this shrub is to carry out the following activities:

• watering
• weeding, loosening and mulching
• fertilization
• preventive and urgent therapeutic measures to eliminate pests and pathogenic microorganisms
• trimming lashes and shaping a bush

The last point is the most important, since not only the appearance and size of the plant, but also its yield will depend on the quality and professionalism of its implementation.

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Care for successful cultivation

After planting, the blackberries need to be watered as the top layer of the soil dries up; for young bushes, the optimal amount of watering is 5-7 liters per plant. Even at the planting stage, mulching is recommended - this facilitates the subsequent removal of weeds and loosening.

Top dressing and processing

Once a season, you need to apply complex fertilizers to activate growth, it is advisable to use ready-made liquid formulations for horticultural crops, which can be found in any specialized store.

If you use single-component fertilizers, then they are applied in the following proportions:

• nitrogen compounds (ammonium nitrate or urea) - 20 g / m2;
• potash fertilizers - 40 g / m2;
• phosphates - 50 g / m2.

Blackberries respond well to organic fertilizers, among which mullein is very popular. Some gardeners use it as a mulch, which simplifies the feeding process.

In the first year, treatment for diseases and pests is required only if the first signs of infection appear. However, subject to planting agrotechnics and high-quality care, blackberries rarely suffer from diseases.

Installation of trellises

Already in the first year of the life of the bush, trellises should be installed, which are important for the garter of fruiting shoots. For this, strong posts up to 2 meters in height are used, which are dug in from both sides of the plant. Three rows of rope or galvanized wire are pulled on them - at a distance of 65, 125 and 180 cm. After that, the shoots must be constantly guided to avoid chaotic growth.

Bush formation

Most varieties of garden blackberries do not yield in the first year, in order to get berries in the next season, the main young shoots should be pinned, which have reached a length of up to 120 cm.They should be shortened by 10-12 cm, the side branches are cut as they grow, starting from 50 cm. If the procedure is carried out correctly, by the end of summer the bush should look well-groomed and neat.

Shelter

The area with blackberry bushes must be shaded from direct sunlight, which adversely affects the formation and ripening of fruits. Abundant lighting can spoil the presentation of the berries, they will become faded and light.

To avoid this, on especially sunny days, shade nets should be pulled on the site, they can be removed at night. Shelter of bushes for the winter period is required only when grown in the northern regions, as well as when planting heat-loving varieties.

Diseases of garden blackberries

Diseases and their descriptions in garden blackberries are similar to those of raspberries. They lead to a decrease in fertility, cessation or deterioration of the growth of the bush. Diseases often occur from improper watering - the use of cold water, liquid contaminated with chemical or harmful organic substances. Insects can also cause damage; timely processing is necessary from them.

Why does garden blackberry not bloom?

Lack of flowering can be caused by improper care or conditions.But, if all the rules were followed, and there was a sharp decrease in color, it means that the blackberries in the garden are sick. The most common cause is harmful insects - raspberry beetle, spider mite. They lay their eggs at the base of the bud, and it dies without developing. They solve the problem in the spring before the formation of the ovary: the bush is treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or fufanon at the rate of 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

Why does garden blackberry not bear fruit?

If the bush looks healthy, but does not bear fruit initially after planting, this does not depend on how to care for the garden blackberry, just such a variety is not fruitful. When a decrease in fertility has occurred during the life of the plant, but there is no apparent reason for this, such as damage to the berries by insects, it means problems with the soil. Perhaps the soil is dehydrated or the roots of the plant have reached layers that are undesirable for the blackberry. In any case, this is not fatal, you need to feed the bush with iron vitriol, and add more fertilizer to the soil for the winter.

The most dangerous pests

It is impossible to tell in detail how to grow blackberries, without mentioning the pests that pose a danger to this crop.

Quite often, ticks (hairy and spiderweb), kidney moth, raspberry-strawberry weevil, nutcracker, raspberry beetle appear on blackberry bushes. Sometimes gall midges, aphids and caterpillars of crimson glass moths and moths cause serious problems. Alas, they will have to fight with the attraction of very radical means - "Aktellik", "Karbofos", "Fitoverma", "Akarina" and other poisons. Yes, it is very unpleasant, especially for people who dream of harvesting an environmentally friendly crop. But otherwise, you can be left without berries at all.

To reduce the likelihood of fruit poisoning, the bushes should be sprayed at the first suspicion of pests before the buds open or at least before flowering. In addition, if in the summer you had problems with the insects listed above, then in the fall, immediately after harvesting, it is advisable to treat the bushes with the same preparations in order to destroy the pests and their eggs.

Site preparation

Blackberries are planted most often in spring, less often in autumn, but in the second case, this must be done long before frost, otherwise the seedlings will not have time to take root. You need to start preparing the site in the autumn - it is good to dig up the ground and get rid of weeds. Fertile soils, which are constantly fertilized, do not require the introduction of nutrient mixtures, but if the soil is depleted by other plants, it needs to be fed. To do this, mix 10 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of fertilizers containing potassium, scatter over the surface of the site and dig it up again. It is not worth fertilizing the soil too much, otherwise the blackberry will grow foliage to the detriment of yield.

In the fall, the site needs to be dug up

Harvesting the harvest

The berries ripen unevenly. Similar to raspberries, we organize the collection in several stages. The ripe berry can be easily separated from the calyx at the same time as the stalk.

The advantage of blackberries (relative to raspberries) - its berries are not subject to crushing, are good for transportation and can be stored longer at 0 ° C.

Where is better to plant

To learn more about blackberries, how to grow and care for a crop, you also need to choose a suitable place, otherwise you should not count on a rich harvest.

The bushes should be planted in sunny areas, as the culture needs a lot of sun. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that the site is protected from the wind from all directions. Experts recommend growing blackberries not on a flat area, but on the southern or western slopes. In this case, the bushes will receive a lot of sun, since these slopes are illuminated almost all day or at least half of the daylight hours, which contributes to a rich harvest.At the same time, the slope itself will reliably protect the bushes from the cold east and north winds. This is important both in summer and winter. A cold north wind may well freeze bushes and even roots, if the first frosts come before the snow covers the ground with a thick layer.

Also, if you want to learn more about blackberries, care and cultivation, reproduction and pruning, then you need to first figure out the suitable soil, this is also very important. It grows best on light soil, rich in useful microelements. Sandy loam soil or loam is an excellent choice. But when planting on carbonate soils, the culture will hardly bear fruit well, the lack of magnesium and iron will affect. The optimum acidity of the soil is pH 6, that is, neutral.

Installation diagram of a trellis made of pillars and wire

Making and installing a trellis is a simple procedure that you can do yourself. The base is pillars, for example, wooden poles or metal pipes. The pillars are designed to stretch the lines. In the fall, all old branches are cut off, and the rest are tied up.

Manufacturing takes place like this:

• holes are dug in a row, where the pillars will be mounted (the depth should be 80 cm), and between them you need to allocate about 5 m;
• a layer of crushed stone (about 10-15 cm) is laid in each pit to prevent the pillars from sinking;
• the lower part of the supports should be treated with mastic, then the structures are mounted in a hole, leveling on the ground, covered with earth and compacted;
• the wire is stretched between the supports, it is enough to make 3 or 4 tiers with a step of 50 cm.

Next, the formation of blackberries on the trellis is carried out according to one of the following schemes:

1. Interlacing.

   
   

   The branches are attached to the trellis in 3 tiers. When new branches grow, they are bent away from the trunk, bringing them to the fourth line, that is, up.
2. By fan. Old branches are tied vertically, like a fan, fixing along 3 lines. Youngsters start up on 4 lines, that is, on top.
3. Unilateral tilt. Fruiting shoots must be tilted to one side, fixing along 3 lines. Youngsters weave along the old ones, but in the opposite direction.

Preparation for wintering

Blackberries, despite the fact that they have good frost resistance, still need shelter for the winter. Maybe insulation for a plant is not a vital measure. But having overwintered in comfortable conditions, blackberries will surely thank the gardener with fast growth and a bountiful harvest next season.

Simple cover for bushes

To cover the bushes, they must be laid on the soil surface. The question is how to lay the shoots, and at the same time not injure the plant, not spend a lot of time untiing the lashes from the trellis. There is such an option (if the support pillars are not cemented) - the shoots along with the trellis are laid flat on the ground, it is enough to carefully remove the supports.

The bush should be covered with peat, fallen leaves, straw, corn husks or other materials. When it snows and frosts begin, the pile is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, it is important to open the bush in the spring on time, that is, do not miss the moment of strong swelling of the buds. The tapestry must be installed in place, the next formative pruning must be done.

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How to cover an upright blackberry

It is more difficult to cover upright blackberry bushes, since their tough shoots practically do not field. If possible, a shelter in the form of a greenhouse on a frame is installed over such bushes. Or they can be wrapped in any breathable material.

Straight bushes can be tied before winterizing

Before sheltering, the bush is cut off, and the ground around it must be mulched with dry material - sawdust, peat.To prevent disease or pest infestation in the next season, the bush and the soil under it must be sprayed with copper sulfate and actellic.

There is also an option for covering upright blackberry bushes without heavy cutting - starting from the last month of summer, you need to hang a load on the branches (plastic bottles filled with water). Under the weight of the load, the branches of the plant will gradually tilt to the ground, it will be easier to bend them without breaking. Sheltering the bush with polyethylene is allowed, since blackberries are not prone to damping off during thaws and in spring.

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Support for growth

Erect plants require us to help them grow in the installation of the supports they need. We stretch wire, twine, rope, plastic material or something suitable along the planted crops. We fix them on stakes, crossbars, etc., driven along the edges of the row, trench. We tie the plants themselves without strong tension or attach them with brackets.

Creeping cultures are also waiting for a garter, but in this case we fix them a little differently. The branches that give berries are directed along the support in one direction, for example, to the left. But young shoots - to the right. This redirection of shoots allows the sun to better illuminate the bush, which contributes to more active vision of the berries, and also makes harvesting less difficult.

Blackberry propagation

Most often, garden blackberries are propagated by the vegetative parts of the bush, but the seed method can also be used to preserve varietal characteristics or increase the planting of unique varieties. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Layers

Suitable for varieties with long side branches and a spreading bush. Algorithm for propagation by horizontal layers:

1. In the first decade of August, a furrow is prepared with a depth of 15-17 cm. A healthy one-year shoot is placed in it, and sprinkled with earth on top. The branch from the mother bush does not need to be cut off, and the upper bud must be left on the surface.
2. The place where the layering is located is pressed down with a heavy object or pinned down with a wire.
3. The soil is mulched with fallen leaves or sawdust, and then abundantly watered with warm, settled water.
4. Rooting occurs within 60-65 days. After that, the shoots can be carefully cut off from the mother bush, dug up and planted in a permanent place along with a lump of earth.

To increase the chances of rooting, the procedure should be carried out on several bushes at once. The mother plant must be at least 2 years old.

Shoots

Apical shoot propagation of blackberries is the easiest way to increase the planting of a crop. It is best used for breeding mature and sturdy shrubs.

To do this, in the fall, the tip of the shoot is tilted down and buried in the ground. No pruning is required, but the cambium should be slightly cut to improve rooting. In the spring, the seedling can be separated from the bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Offspring

Blackberry bush can be propagated by root suckers. This method is not suitable for hybrid and large-fruited crop varieties.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Choose a healthy and high-yielding blackberry bush that has been growing in one place for more than 3 years.
2. In spring or early summer, the offspring are dug up along with the root system and a clod of earth. The optimum height of the seedling is 10-15 cm.
3. The planting material is planted on a prepared dive bed for subsequent rearing. After the bush reaches 50-70 cm, it can be transplanted to a permanent place.
4. The transplant is carried out in late August or early autumn. To do this, choose the most developed shoots that have reached a thickness of 8 cm.The recommended length of the root system is 15-17 cm.
5. Before planting, the seedling is cut to 35 cm, planted according to the standard algorithm.

After transplanting, the plant needs to be mulched, watered and inorganic fertilizers applied; it is not recommended to use organic matter, as this leads to the appearance of rodents and pests.

Root and green cuttings

Scheme of obtaining cuttings plants
Cutting is not suitable for thornless varieties, since the daughter plant loses varietal qualities, thorns appear and yield decreases. Root cuttings are preferably transplanted in early spring or late autumn.

To do this, the bush is dug out together with the root, and then they are divided into parts, leaving up to 60 cm of the root system. Each stalk must be at least 0.5 cm thick. Subsequent planting in a permanent place occurs according to the standard scheme described above.

Propagation by green cuttings is more suitable for experienced gardeners as it is not always possible to achieve an optimal rooting rate. To do this, in July, 1/3 of the length is cut off from a green and healthy shoot, leaving at least one bud and a leaf.

The branch should be treated with a growth stimulant and the top layer of the bark should be slightly cut. After that, the seedling is planted in an individual peat pot and covered with polyethylene. The root system is formed within 30-35 days, after which the plant is transplanted to a permanent place.

Seeds

The seed propagation method of blackberries is suitable for rare varieties or hybrid crop varieties. Not recommended for northern regions where rooting of planting material is more difficult to achieve.

Before planting, it is required to prepare a peat container, where light and fertile soil is placed. The seeds are immersed in water for 2-3 hours, after which they are placed in a damp cloth for 3 days.

The planting material should swell slightly, after which it can be planted in a pot to a depth of 1 cm. Containers with seedlings are placed in a cool place for 2 months, and during this time, moderate watering and airing should be carried out regularly.

After the emergence of shoots, containers with blackberries are transferred to a warmer place. A pick at a permanent place can be carried out when 3-5 true leaves appear on the seedlings.

Garden blackberries: pruning and preparation for winter

Caring for blackberry seedlings in the fall consists in weeding, watering (as necessary so that the soil does not dry out), loosening the soil and mulching, it will not be superfluous to protect the bushes from insects hiding in the soil before wintering. To destroy pests, each bush is periodically watered with a solution of half a tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide per liter of water before covering. The same liquid can be used to treat the aerial part of the plant for the prevention of diseases.

In subsequent years, the bushes are watered 3 times a season, the roots of the bush go deep into the ground, where they receive the necessary moisture. Even with rare and scarce watering, blackberries grow in one place up to 9-11 years. The last watering is carried out a couple of weeks before the onset of frost, simultaneously with the procedure, fertilizers are applied (potassium-phosphorus without chlorine). Under each bush, you can gently dig in a small amount of a mixture of superphosphate and compost.

Pruning blackberries in autumn

The formation of a bush in the fall helps the blackberry to winter well and form fruit buds. In addition to maintaining productivity and increasing yields, pruning will be the key to proper, uniform nutrition of the bush, providing fruit-bearing branches with sunlight, and getting earlier, tasty berries. Pruning of prickly blackberries is especially important, with strong overgrowth of bushes, it will become quite difficult to care for them and pick berries. Autumn pruning is carried out from mid-September to the end of October (immediately after harvesting the entire crop).

On a note!

Autumn pruning strengthens the frost resistance of the bushes, and in the spring it is recommended to clean the blackberries from the branches that have not overwintered.

Before pruning, you need to determine the optimal load of the shrub.The root of a healthy, adult plant is able to provide food for no more than 8 fruitful shoots, about 10 branches are left for wintering, providing a small reserve in case of freezing. All weakened stems are harvested, sparse but healthy bushes are more productive. Consider 5 golden rules for pruning blackberries:

1. The first year during the season, all inflorescences are cut off to stimulate root growth.
2. In the second year, in the spring, before the beginning of the growing season, the stems are shortened to 1, 5 or 1, 7 m. Cuttings are made above the bud.
3. After wintering, the frozen sections of the stems are removed to a living bud. In the first half of June, the bush is thinned out - young shoots are removed, leaving no more than 8 best shoots for creeping varieties and about 5 for upright ones. The tips of young stems are shortened by 6 or 8 cm (one centimeter above the bud).
4. In the fall, the branches that bear fruit are cut out at the root, as well as underdeveloped shoots or those affected by diseases and pests.
5. The bushes of the remontant blackberry are cut out completely.

To help the blackberries grow stronger after pruning, use only sharp scissors or pruning shears without gaps between the blades. The branches are removed completely, even short hemp should not be left, with rotting wood there is a risk of developing dangerous diseases. It is strictly forbidden to leave all plant residues near the bushes, they are burned away from the beds with blackberries.

How to cover a blackberry

The autumn planting of blackberries involves the organization of a reliable shelter. In warm regions with snowy winters, you can do without additional protection, a layer of mulch will be enough. Before wintering, the stems are shortened to 1, 5–1, 8 m. If in your area in winter the snow cover is less than 30 cm, then the seedlings must be bent to the ground, tied to pegs and covered with burlap, roofing felt or thick polyethylene. The ground should be covered with a layer of hay, straw, peat, spruce branches, corn or sunflower tops.

Attention!

The importance of sheltering blackberries cannot be overestimated, most varieties of crops bear fruit on the shoots of last year, even a weak freezing of the bush threatens to reduce productivity. Frost-resistant varieties tolerate a temperature drop of up to 20 degrees, they also need to be protected.

It is necessary to cover the blackberry immediately before the onset of frost, if the procedure is carried out too early, there is a risk that the shoots pressed to the ground will take root. In the spring, the protection is removed immediately after the onset of positive temperature so that the branches do not overheat and the fruit buds do not get stuck. Scourges are tied to supports as they grow. Blackberry shoots do not lend themselves well to bending, therefore, the bushes are prepared for the subsequent shelter from August - small weights are attached to the tips of annual twigs, the stems will gradually tilt.

Mistakes in caring for blackberries in autumn and preparing for winter

Beginners, and sometimes seasoned gardeners, complain that, if all the rules of autumn planting of blackberries are observed, the shrub develops very poorly the next year and is constantly sick. The problem may lie in poor-quality planting material, but most often poor growth is a sign of improper care. What mistakes gardeners make when growing garden blackberries:

• too dense planting;
• landing in a damp place (it is better to immediately transplant the bush);
• improper crown formation;
• lack of normalization of shoots (overloading the bush);
• untimely pruning.

When cultivating blackberries, every detail is important, many varieties and hybrids, although they are unpretentious, still require increased attention. Start growing berries only after thoroughly studying the theory of autumn planting and caring for blackberries. Take into account the climatic conditions of the region and the composition of the soil, only then you will be able to get excellent harvests of berries every year.

Storage and use of berries - preparation and timing

Frozen berry is an excellent component for making compote in winter

The shelf life of this berry is as follows:

• Fresh blackberry in the refrigerator at zero temperature - from 4 to 7 days. In this case, the berries should be located on a napkin in a container in one layer. You cannot wash the berries and remove the cuttings.
• Whipped with sugar fresh blackberries in the refrigerator at zero temperature - up to 21 days. The taste and benefits of the fruit will be preserved in full.
• Washed and sorted Blackberries can be frozen, dried, canned (compotes, preserves, jams).
• Blackberry, if the harvest is plentiful and the presentation of the fruit is preserved, can be sold in the local market, friends and neighbors on the site.

If the berries were picked unripe, then during storage they will no longer ripen, like, for example, tomatoes. Therefore, it is necessary to harvest only when the berries acquire the appearance of ripe fruits corresponding to the variety.

Plants that need to be transported long distances must be carefully sorted. Remove all damaged or rotten berries, leave on healthy stalks, do not wash the berries. Transportation is carried out in dry containers, layers of berries in one container should be as few as possible.

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Description of the plant

Blackberries are perennial shrubs cultivated in one place for 15-20 years or more. The area under cultivation of blackberries in the world is the same as the area of ​​raspberries, with the exception of places with cooler climates. Most of the plantings are in North America, Chile and New Zealand. The largest European blackberry producers are Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria. We have a blackberry is widely known as a wild plant, in this form it is usually prickly. The collection of fruits from such plants is limited and rather difficult. On personal plots, summer cottages, garden blackberries are grown - without thorns.

The underground part of the plant consists of the root system and the root collar, the aerial part is replaced on average every 2 years. In the first year, shoots grow, on which lateral fruiting branches appear next year. Shoots can live longer than 2 years if the shrubs are grown in warm climates. There are types with and without thorns.

In varieties with rising stems, their length reaches 2-3 meters, creeping blackberry shoots reach a length of 10 meters. The fruits ripen in the middle of summer. In many regions, the cultivation of blackberries is not very popular due to the average frost resistance, but the constant selection of new varieties gives hope for a wider distribution of the berry.

We select a place

Upright varieties feel comfortable in open, sun-warmed places, not blown by northern as well as eastern winds. The culture loves enough moist, but not damp soils. It gives preference to nutritious, well-drained places with a loamy or medium loamy soil composition.

Creeping species also love warmth, which means they will love the sunny corners of the garden. For the rest, culture does not require anything beyond measure. Therefore, we can safely attribute it to completely non-capricious cultures.

Dates for planting: The best time for planting is early spring.

Protection against diseases and pests

Unfortunately, blackberries can be attacked by diseases and pests.

Diseases

Shrubs can affect diseases:

• anthracnose,
• white leaf spot,
• verticillosis,
• root rot.

Major pests

The most common pests:

• blackberries are often eaten by birds, which forces the use of protective nets;
• raspberry-blackberry aphid,
• thrips,
• ticks,
• blackberry mite.

Prevention and control measures:

1. it is necessary to cut off infected parts of plants, burn them;
2. you need to maintain a sufficient distance, do not compact the landings;
3. do not create a microclimate favorable for pathogenic microorganisms;
4. not fertilize too much with nitrogen, which reduces immunity to fungal diseases;
5. thorough weeding.

Blackberry mite is the cause of unripe blackberries

Gardeners are surprised that red berries appear on the bushes, which never turn black. The cause of the phenomenon is a blackberry mite. This happens at a different rate every year.

The blackberry mite (Acelitus essigi) is one of the smallest pests of the four-legged superfamily. The body of the tick is white, fusiform, with two pairs of legs. Adults are 0.16-0.18 mm long, eggs are small, with a diameter of about 0.03 mm. In winter, pests can be found on blackberry shoots, as well as in mummified fruits damaged in the previous season that remained on the bushes. In the spring, when the growing season of blackberries begins, ticks gradually leave their wintering sites and migrate to the underside of the developing young leaves, where they begin to feed. The females lay eggs on the leaves, where the hatched larvae then feed. Later, the larvae migrate to the emerging flower buds. They feed on flowers and developing fruits. In late summer and autumn, they collect inside the buds at growth points. The larvae can winter quietly, and resume feeding in the spring.

The mite sucks the juices of the plant, the greatest damage is caused by the introduction of toxic compounds with saliva into the tissue of the fruit buds, which causes disturbances in the process of fruit ripening. The blackberry mite is the cause of unripe blackberries.

Fruits (or parts thereof), damaged by mites, are hard, bright red, sour and remain so until winter. Healthy fruits change color to dark, become soft, turning into full-fledged dessert berries. The first harvest has fewer damaged berries than the next. The most damaged berries are seen in recent harvests. Losses depend on the number of mites on the bushes, which is influenced by weather conditions, temperature (usually a temperature of about 20 ° C is suitable for mites), which determines the time of development of individual stages of the pest.

Mites are transferred to new plantings together with cuttings (this is the main source of pests on young plants). During the growing season, they spread along with the wind, rain, and can be transmitted by insects and other types of mites, which move from infected plants to healthy ones.

Control measures

The basic rule is to use healthy cuttings. If there are mite-infested bushes nearby, it is best to dig them up and burn them so that they do not become a source of infection for young, healthy bushes. After harvesting, the old shoots should be cut and burned. Do not leave infected fruits on the bushes for the winter. These methods can significantly reduce the source of tick distribution in the area.

Sometimes it is necessary to apply chemical control measures. It is not easy, it is difficult to achieve high effectiveness of treatment. Chemical treatment of blackberries can be carried out in the spring, when the pest leaves the winter shelters and begins to feed on the leaves. It should be fought before flowering and, if necessary, at the beginning of flowering and after flowering. It is very important to prevent the pest from feeding on flowers and fruit buds.

Mite reduction is achieved by spraying with acaricides - Omite 30 WP (0.2-0.23%), Torque 50 WP (0.12%), Magus 200 SC (0.09%), Ortus 05 SC (0.1- 0.15%). The treatment should be carried out carefully so that the liquid with the preparation reaches the underside of the leaves, the corners of the leaves and flower buds, where the ticks are hiding. Before spraying, you must carefully read the instructions for use of the drug, paying particular attention to the toxicity, and observe the waiting period for people. The aforementioned acaricides simultaneously fight the spider mite.

We select a variety

The choice of a variety depends on the climatic zone, the timing of fruiting, the preferences of gardeners.It is advisable to have several varieties of thornless blackberry on the site so that their yield and benefits can be compared.

Varieties for the Moscow region

Gardeners in the suburbs prefer the frost-resistant blackberry bushless. The average temperature in the central part of Russia in winter is -11 C, and the lowest possible temperature can drop below -30 C. The varieties are suitable: Thornfrey, Lochness, Thornless Evergreen. They hibernate well under cover.

Note: Most of the thornless blackberry varieties have an extended fruiting period lasting more than a month. The bushes look decorative not only due to the foliage: one plant has flowers, green and red unripe fruits and ripe black berries.

The earliest

Early thornless blackberry varieties begin bearing fruit in late June - early July. They are best suited for regions with a temperate climate, as well as the cold regions of the Urals and Siberia, since they have time to give off fruits before a cold snap. The earliest ripening periods are most pronounced in the varieties Natchez, Arapakho, Chachanska Bestrna.

The thornless blackberry is considered frost-resistant, which can withstand frosts down to -20 C. These are the maximum indicators at which the bushes do not freeze, so they still need shelter in most of Russia. These varieties include: Navajo, Lochness, Black Satin.

The largest and most productive

Among the modern varieties of blackberries, there are "giant berries", without which the description of the thornless forms would be incomplete:

• Polar gives 5-6 kg. berries from a bush and at the same time is distinguished by early ripening of fruits and winter hardiness;
• Ouachita gives a record harvest: up to 30 kg. from one plant;
• Loch Tei belongs to varieties with an average ripening period, and the declared yield is 10-12 kg.;
• Lochness also has a high yield - up to 25 kg.

Each variety has its own distinctive features and taste advantages, which allows you to choose blackberries with your own varietal characteristics, based on your preferences. Blackberries without thorns are easy to pick. The fruits are tasty, juicy, well stored and used for harvesting.

Caring and grooming

The grooming activities consist of routine activities, many of which are similar to her raspberry friend. Therefore, whoever has raspberries on the site, caring for blackberries will not be difficult.

Blackberries are a lover of loose soil, so do not forget about loosening it. Don't let the weeds take over our plant.

Blackberry transplant

Sometimes for redevelopment of the site or the reproduction of blackberries, it is necessary to transplant an adult bush. Is it advisable to do this? Yes, such a transplant is not only possible, but also useful for plant rejuvenation and renewal. An adult bush will easily tolerate both spring and autumn transplantation, subject to certain rules:

• in the spring, transplanting an adult plant should be carried out before the buds awaken;
• after the start of active sap flow, and this usually happens in May, the transplant can not only injure the plant, but also destroy it;
• an autumn transplant should be carried out about a month before frost in order for the plant to adapt and get stronger;
• the shelter of the blackberry transplanted in the fall is a prerequisite for the survival of the bush;
• after transplanting the blackberry, do not rush to fertilize the plant, give it time to take root.

It is better to transfer the plant to a new place along with an earthen lump - in this case, the adaptation process will be easier

Fertilizing with mineral and organic means

Blackberries take nitrogen compounds positively. You can feed it with ammonium nitrate: 20 g of fertilizer is designed for 1 sq. m. To make up for the lack of nitrogen, it is necessary to apply 3.5 kg of specialized fertilizer per 1 sq. m. m. I advise you to make preparations with a nitrogen content when the growing season begins.

Blackberries need potassium. They feed it with potassium sulfate: add 30 g per 1 sq. m.The plant does not tolerate chlorine-containing fertilizers well - consider this feature! Blackberries also require manure: 50 g of organic matter is applied once every 3 years.

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting is done as the blackberries ripen. The berries must be ripe, since they do not have the properties to ripen in the plucked form. It is imperative to harvest the fruit in dry weather, at noon or later. If raindrops remain on the berries or there is dew, the fruits will be wet, their lying will be impossible, since they will not become moldy.

Important! Storage of berries is allowed at a temperature of + 2 ... + 7 ° C for 3 days.

You can save the berry in other ways. If desired, they can be frozen or dried in the sun, in the oven or by means of a dryer to increase the shelf life.

Blackberry pests and diseases with photo

Blackberry diseases

Pests and diseases in raspberries and blackberries are the same. So, blackberries grown in mid-latitude gardens can suffer from tons of rust, powdery mildew, anthracnose, septoria or white spot, from didimella or purple spot, botrytis or gray rot, and also due to an excess or lack of nutrients in the soil. and also if you violate the rules of agricultural technology of this culture.

Blackberry bushes can suffer from columnar or goblet rust. Columnar rust can get on this crop from pines or cedars that grow nearby, while its pathogens are carried by the wind. The pathogens of goblet rust can only appear in a garden located near a reservoir on the banks of which sedge grows. Only weakened blackberries are affected by rust. In infected specimens, in the first summer weeks, brownish-orange dots appear on the surface of the leaf plates, which eventually become pads, and they are located on the underside of the foliage. In the event that the disease is not fought, then about 60 percent of the crop will be destroyed by it. As a preventive measure, blackberries are sprayed on freshly blossomed foliage with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (1%). A similar treatment is repeated after the crop is harvested from the bushes. By the way, this remedy will help protect plants from many other diseases. Infected bushes should be sprayed with a sulfuric preparation, and for this they choose a warm day (the air temperature should be above 16 degrees). For example, you can use a sulfuric preparation such as a solution of colloidal sulfur, it will relieve not only various fungal diseases, but also from ticks and aphids.

Anthracnose

The development of anthracnose is observed in the last days of May or the first days of June, but only if it is rainy, damp weather for a long time. In affected specimens, purple oval specks appear on newly grown young shoots. They increase in size over time and when they reach the tissues of the cortex, gray ulcers with purple edges appear on it. On the surface of the leaf plates, specks are also formed with a pale red border. In winter, the death of the affected stems is observed. In order to prevent the purchased seedlings, they should be carefully examined. Also, blackberries require systematic feeding with peat compost and timely weeding. For the prevention and treatment of such a disease, the same drugs are used as in the fight against rust.

Septoria

White spot (septoria) - this disease is very widespread. Infected bushes are affected by stems and foliage. Brownish spots form on them, which become lighter over time and acquire a dark border.

Purple spot

Didymella (purple spot) - this disease affects the buds of the plant, and also leads to drying and death of the leaf plates, in some cases the shoot dries up. At the very beginning, small specks of purple-brown color are formed on the middle and lower part of the infected specimen. As the disease progresses, the kidneys become blackened, the leaf plates become fragile, and necrotic spots of a dark color with a yellow border appear on their surface.

Botrytis

Gray rot (botrytis) also prefers damp weather. In the affected specimen, the fruits rot. For prevention purposes, it is not recommended to grow blackberries in cramped conditions, they need good ventilation.

Powdery mildew

Most of all, blackberry bushes can suffer from spheroteka (powdery mildew). In an infected plant, the surface of foliage, berries and stems is covered with a loose bloom of white color.

To fight all these diseases should be the same drugs as in the fight against rust. It should also be remembered that a strong plant is very rarely affected by various diseases. Therefore, try to follow all the rules of agricultural technology for this crop and provide it with proper care.

In some cases, yellowing of blackberry bushes is observed. Most often this happens due to an overabundance or insufficient amount of trace elements. In this case, you need to adjust the fertilizing schedule, as well as analyze the composition of all fertilizers used.

Blackberry pests

Blackberry bushes can accommodate: mites (spiderweb and hairy raspberry), raspberry kidney moth, raspberry-strawberry weevil, raspberry beetle, nutcracker, as well as aphids, gall midges and caterpillars of butterflies - fireflies, raspberry glass cases. To get rid of these pests, experts advise using Karbofos or Aktellik, you can also process with Akarin or Fitoverm. To protect the bramble from the attacks of various pests, in the spring, before the buds open and in the autumn, after picking the berries, spraying should be done for prophylaxis, while using the same drugs (see above).

How to plant a blackberry correctly

Growing blackberries is not easy. First you need to find a suitable place for planting blackberries, it must be sunny and sheltered from the wind. It is best to choose the western or southern slope. Blackberries grow well on nutritious, drained loams; planting on sandy lands is allowed. In the fall, you need to prepare the soil by freeing the site from weeds. When digging furrows or planting holes, the soil layer is mixed with mineral and organic fertilizers. The best option is that 15 g of superphosphate, 10 kg of organic matter, 25 g of potassium sulfate are required per square meter of garden land. When planting, sprinkle the roots of the seedlings with this soil mixture.

Preparing the site

We begin preparatory work in the autumn. Dig up the selected area with the addition of 12-15 kg of manure (overripe) / compost, a tablespoon of potassium sulfate, superphosphate plus Agricola for berry crops per m2.

You can prepare the site not by continuous digging, but simply limit yourself to digging a trench - a width, a depth of 30-40 cm.We mix the upper layer of earth from it well with the above components and send it back to the trench. We plant seedlings in grooves or holes previously dug into trenches.

It can be planted in a pre-dug planting pit with the same width and depth - 50 cm, adding a pre-prepared nutrient composition with already introduced organic matter and mineral fertilizers, and after spilling with two capsules of the Energen growth stimulator dissolved in 10 liters of liquid.

Botanical description, characteristics

In accordance with the botanical description, the garden blackberry is a representative of the Rubus genus, the Pink family. The most popular are bushy blackberries (better known as "kumanika") and gray blackberries (sometimes called "ozhina").

Garden blackberry - shrub or shrub vine... The plant is distinguished by the presence of a stem shoot, which is very flexible. On the surface of the shoot, there are many sharp thorns (prickly varieties), and the end of the stem is represented by a perennial rhizome. The height of the plant can reach 2 m, provided that a trellis or other support is placed next to it, along which the blackberry can creep.

Did you know? Breeders have already bred thornless blackberry varieties, which are also striking with increased resistance to diseases and pests, and high yields.

The leaf plates are usually five to seven-part or triple. They have a pale or bright green hue. The plant acts as an excellent honey plant during the flowering period. The flowers of the plant reach 3 cm in diameter. Blackberries often bloom from June to August, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. The first fruits can be enjoyed in early August, but fruiting continues almost until the first frost.

Blackberries are firm and firm enough. They are dark brown, black or deep purple.... On the surface of the fruit, there may be a slight bloom of a bluish color. The characteristics of the berries depend on the type and variety.

• The main features include:
• Blackberries easily tolerate drought, but it is still better to water the bushes at least twice a month in order to achieve a good harvest.
• The plant can withstand up to -5 ... -10 ° С (except for frost-resistant varieties). That is why the culture needs a mandatory shelter for the winter, so that in the spring it can revive and bear fruit in the future.
• The crop is considered to be fruitful. Depending on the variety, it is possible to get about 7-15 kg of berries from each bush. Of course, this is possible, subject to the rules of cultivation.
• The berries are distinguished by good keeping quality (at a temperature of + 2 ... + 5 ° C, the fruits can be stored for about 3 days) and transportability.
• It should be noted the amazing taste of berries, numerous useful properties, as well as the same shape and size of the fruit.

In addition, different varieties of blackberries have their own advantages and disadvantages. It is very important to take a responsible approach to the selection of a suitable variety for growing in a particular region in order to achieve easy maintenance, a plentiful and truly tasty harvest.

The plant can be used in both industrial and domestic cultivation.... Most likely, gardeners will very soon appreciate the blackberry and its plantations will be widespread not only in the countries of America, but also in Europe.

Agrotechnics

Caring for blackberries is not much different from raspberries that bear fruit in summer.

Choosing a landing site

Growing garden blackberries requires finding a suitable position. Only in full sun will blackberries be sweet and tasty. The shrub can be planted in a semi-shady place or even in deep shade (on the north side), but then it grows worse, later the harvest ripens.

Bushes need to be well protected from gusty winds that can damage the shoots. This is especially true when fruiting begins, the berries can be damaged, especially if it rains. It used to be thought that it was best to grow blackberries in gardens near the forest, but this is not the case - new varieties will be accepted everywhere.

Blackberries have an average sensitivity to frost, some varieties cannot survive in our conditions, so they should be covered before winter (plants tolerate frosts down to -15 ° C). It is advisable to plant the shrub against a wall in a sunny location or cover it. In colder regions, it is recommended to grow blackberries under cover. This minimizes losses due to adverse weather conditions and extends the harvest period.

It is not recommended to grow blackberries for at least 3 years after:

• tomatoes,
• potatoes,
• pepper,
• raspberries,
• strawberries.

Because these plants can be infested with the same pathogens and pests.

Soil requirements

The soil in which blackberry seedlings should be planted should be moist, but not swampy, as this can threaten the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Blackberries grow well on fertile, not heavy soils. The soil must be permeable, dry quickly, drain water. However, young seedlings do not tolerate even temporary drought; if necessary, regular watering is necessary.

Soil acidity:

• recommended pH - 6.0-7.0;
• with an indicator below 5.5, the soil needs to be limed;
• at a pH above 8.0, plants may suffer from chlorosis caused by iron deficiency.

It is recommended to avoid heavy or sandy soils. However, if there is no other choice, before planting, the soil should be well fertilized with manure, compost or green manure (mustard, legumes).

The planting site must be thoroughly weeded out.

How to propagate garden blackberries - 4 ways

Blackberries rarely produce root growth, depending on the species and variety. The plant propagates usually by rooting the tops of the shoots of the current year by tilting and attaching them to the ground - this is a relatively simple procedure. If there is a healthy shrub, you should propagate it yourself. Plus, propagating blackberries is a great way to rejuvenate a plant that is time to replant.

Propagation by horizontal layers

This is the simplest and most commonly used blackberry propagation method among gardeners. The best time for layering is spring. Shoots are selected that have reached a length of 70-150 cm. The shoot is bent to the surface of the earth, secured with staples. A fragment of the shoot below the top is covered with humus soil, filling a mound with a height of 7-10 cm (leaving the top of the shoot not covered).

The buried part should take root before the fall. You can then cut it off from the mother plant. In late autumn or next spring, the blackberry seedling can be transplanted to another location.

Cutting green shoots

The method is based on the rooting of the tops of the shoots, carried out from the end of June to August. It is necessary to cut off the young, non-lignified upper part of the shoot of the current year, along with several leaves (6-10 cm long). The lower leaves (2-3 leaves) are removed, the cutting is immersed in a rooting machine and planted in a permeable, sandy substrate.

The substrate must be constantly moistened. The cuttings should be well lit. It is better to cover the seedlings with glass. To avoid fungal disease, it is useful to spray the seedlings with a fungicide once a week.

After 5-8 weeks, the rooted cuttings are prepared for transplanting into large pots - they are gradually hardened. The next spring, you can plant seedlings in open ground.

Propagation by lignified cuttings

The method is often used in horticulture. Prepared cuttings are definitely less susceptible to water loss than green cuttings and require less care. Lignified cuttings are cut in late autumn, when the plants finish their growing season. Annual shoots are cut to a length of 10-20 cm (the procedure is best done with a sharp knife, since the pruner can "crush" the shoot). The cuttings are immersed in a rooting machine, then planted vertically in a permeable sandy substrate.

The cuttings are stored in the basement until spring (protecting them from freezing if necessary). The substrate should remain slightly damp. In the spring, rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots and slowly hardened. In the open ground, seedlings are planted in the fall.

Propagation by root layers

It is necessary to carefully dig out the root cut, separate it from the mother plant. The cuttings are planted in open ground to a depth of 5 cm. In the spring, shoots should grow from dormant buds.

Landing

It is recommended to buy seedlings from specialized nurseries. Blackberries are often grown in 1-2 copies in gardens near the house or at their summer cottage.When planning larger plantings, it is necessary to find the appropriate area and determine the distance between the plants. The distance depends on the condition of the shrubs, the type of growth (raised stems or recumbent) and the technology. Usually, blackberry bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other, because they grow quickly and require a lot of space.

Optimal distance:

• between rows - 2.5-4 m;
• for varieties with raised stems - in a row at a distance of 0.6-1.2 meters;
• varieties with creeping shoots - up to 1.8 meters;
• when growing on a trellis - you need to provide a support height of at least 1.5-2 meters.

Planting stages:

1. Before planting, a hole is dug larger than the root ball. At the bottom of the pit, fertile soil is poured with the addition of peat.
2. Damaged roots are removed before planting.
3. The plant is placed in a hole, covered with soil and compacted around the bush, creating a "bowl" for watering.
4. Immediately after planting the blackberry, the bush should be watered abundantly - pouring in at least 3-5 liters of water.
5. After planting, the shoots are cut at a height of 30-40 cm. It is not recommended to let the plant bear fruit in the first year due to the high risk of weakening the bush.

Blackberries can be planted in spring or fall, grown in containers - throughout the growing season. The shoots are carried out along the horizontal wires of the trellis, separately - the shoots of the current year and separately fruiting ones. You can grow blackberries on stakes 1.5 meters high. Shoots are tied in several places to a peg.

Blackberries grown on stakes are easier to protect in cold winters; this form is recommended for low-frost-resistant varieties.

Fertilizers

For the successful cultivation of blackberries, the soil must be rich in organic matter, therefore, before planting, it is advisable to enrich it with compost, manure or multicomponent fertilizers. Thanks to fertilizers, the seedlings will take in better. Before planting, manure is applied at a dose of 400 kg / hundred square meters and the soil is dug up.

Doses of mineral fertilizers are determined on the basis of a chemical analysis of the soil. Average rates are as follows:

• Nitrogen... Fertilization with nitrogen in a dose of 300-600 g of N per hundred square meters is given in early spring, when the earth is already thawing. In the first and second year, you can sow the fertilizer in rows, in subsequent years - over the entire surface.

Do not use nitrogen too much to avoid increasing the susceptibility of blackberries to fungal diseases.

• Potassium... Potash fertilizers are applied from the third year after planting, in the fall at a dose of 500-800 g of K2O per hundred square meters.
• Phosphorus... Phosphorus preparations do not need to be applied if they were introduced before planting.
• Calcium... If you overdo it with liming the soil, blackberries can suffer from chlorosis caused by a significant decrease in the absorption of iron, then chelates should be used.

Watering, mulching

The amount of precipitation falling in most regions is sufficient for the proper development of plants. Blackberries, thanks to their deep root system (much deeper than raspberries), copes well with temporary water shortages. During periods of drought, watering is necessary.

Growing blackberries requires mulching to keep the soil moist and prevent weed growth.

Spring and summer care

Growing garden blackberries is quite demanding, especially in the beginning. Young plants need to be watered frequently because even temporary water shortages are harmful. At a later stage, there is no need to worry so much about irrigation, the plants are irrigated only on warm, hot days, during the standard watering of the garden.

In spring, it is advisable to fertilize blackberries regularly every few weeks, preferably using complex formulations such as NPK, that is, containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which maintain an appropriate soil pH and make the plant strong.

Fertilization of young plants is not required if the site is prepared with manure or compost.

How to prune blackberries?

Caring for garden blackberries necessarily includes pruning, thanks to which the bushes quickly thicken and bear fruit. In the first year, pruning of garden blackberries is not necessary.

In the second year, the first pruning is done after harvest.

1. The plant bears fruit once on last year's shoots, so at the end of summer, the shoots on which there were fruits are cut off, because they will no longer bear fruit.
2. The rest of the shoots are tied to a wire or stakes and cut 15-20 cm higher from the last garter.
3. Pruning at the beginning of summer of the tops of the shoots of this year (up to a height of 150-160 cm) is practiced, which stimulates the growth of lateral shoots. On branched shoots, a larger number of inflorescences are formed. Branches appear that will bear fruit next year (in varieties with recumbent "creeping" shoots, this procedure is not performed). Then the shoots are cut and tied up so that in winter they do not break under the pressure of snow and wind.
4. Spring pruning - you need to carefully examine the plant and remove any frozen, dead shoots.

Wintering

Some varieties of blackberry tolerate cold well, but they should be protected from frost. Shoots are laid on the ground and covered with leaves, branches of conifers, burlap or high-quality winter agrotextile. Small earthen mounds can be made around the root collar to better protect the roots of the plant. This is important because in the event of a very cold winter, the plant can die.

Frozen, dead two-year escape - photo

Frozen two-year-old escape - photo

Harvesting

Fruit is harvested at full maturity. From one bush, you can get a harvest of 5-10 kg. Harvesting is carried out daily, taking into account the collective ripeness of the berries, for 3-6 days, depending on the weather and variety. The berries are not pulled like raspberries, but are cut from the bush. The berries ripen usually in the middle of summer.

Harvesting is not recommended on rainy days, the fruits can quickly rot after drying. After picking, the berries should be cooled down to 2-5 ° C as soon as possible.

Blackberry flavor and nutritional value

Besides the unusual taste, blackberries have other benefits. It is a unique source of unusual ingredients with beneficial healing properties. Berries can be used for various diseases. Blackberry leaf is a raw material for creating a decoction that can be drunk during a cold, since it has a diaphoretic and antipyretic effect.

Blackberries contain a lot of pectin, easily digestible sugars, organic acids (including ellagic acid), vitamins, and minerals. The content of anthocyanins is higher than in raspberries. Blackberries have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiviral effects.

Useful properties of blackberries:

• can help with diarrhea and various digestive disorders;
• contain antioxidants that fight free radicals;
• contain anthocyanins, may have a supportive effect on the circulatory system;
• rich in vitamin C, fiber;
• help to acquire a beautiful complexion;
• help to look after the eyes;
• can slow down the aging process of the skin;
• help to relieve PMS and menopause symptoms;
• although blackberries are sweet, they are consumed by diabetics because they have a low glycemic index;
• suitable for creating a low-calorie, healthy, delicious dessert for dieters.

Just 1 glass a day will satisfy the body's needs for ascorbic acid - it is a rich source of vitamin C. Preparations can be prepared from berries and leaves.

Growing blackberries in the country

Garden blackberries in the wild are thorny shrubs with long stems and black raspberry-like berries. Breeders have developed many cultivated varieties. A studless and remontant blackberry appeared with a creeping as well as an erect type of bush.

The taste of the cultivated berry was quickly appreciated by summer residents.Blackberries began to grow in suburban areas. Supports are installed for the plant to simplify harvesting and caring for the bush. Summer residents propagate the culture with purchased seedlings. More experienced gardeners have learned how to get new plants from cuttings. It can be propagated by seeds, but the process is complex and does not always bring results.

Attention! More information about the rules for growing blackberries can be found in the article.

Weeding, loosening, mulching

In the first years, green manures or row crops can be grown between bushes or rows of blackberry bushes. Further, the land near the bushes should be kept under black steam.

Sawdust mulching

If weeds appear near the plant, they must be promptly removed. It is necessary to loosen the soil once a month from spring to autumn, the depth of loosening is 10-12 cm.In the immediate vicinity of the bush, the depth of loosening is higher - up to 6-8 cm.

If it is possible to mulch the land on the site with pebbles, gravel, straw, hay, sawdust, needles, fallen leaves or other improvised materials, then the problems of weeds and loosening will disappear automatically. And if you use compost for mulching, then the plant will receive an additional source of nutrition, which is especially important during the flowering period.

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What to do in the summer

If you study the advice of seasoned gardeners about growing blackberries and care, you can make sure that the culture does not cause any special problems in the summer.

The main thing is to water it in the first month and a half after disembarkation, of course, if at least once or twice a week there is not enough heavy rain, wetting the earth to a decent depth. After that, blackberries need to be watered only on the hottest days, accompanied by prolonged drought. It is especially important to provide the plant with a sufficient amount of moisture during the growth and ripening of berries. Lack of moisture will lead to the fact that they will be small, inconspicuous, and maybe even sprinkled from the bushes.

We must not forget about choosing the right water. For example, you shouldn't water a blackberry with cold water from a well, as a sharp temperature drop will cause serious harm to it. Therefore, you need to take rainwater, tap or well, which has stood for a day or two in the sun and warmed up to a temperature of at least + 12 ... + 15 degrees Celsius.

Telling how to grow blackberries at home, we must not forget about caring for the soil. Experienced summer residents try to plant tilled vegetables between the rows of blackberries, fortunately, there is a lot of space here. Thanks to this, you can perfectly save usable space, which is usually very limited in summer cottages. But they can only be grown in the first two years. Then it is advisable to give a year of rest, during which time the earth will be restored. To speed up the process, you can plant the land with green manure crops, for example, peas, beans. They perfectly saturate the soil with nitrogen - one of the most important elements necessary for the successful growth of any plant.

You also need to carry out loosening about 5-6 times a year as needed. The optimum loosening depth is about 10-12 centimeters. When using mulch, the number of loosening can be reduced, which will be a pleasant surprise for any summer resident, no one wants to do unnecessary work, moreover, quite voluminous and heavy.

Blackberry properties: harm and benefit

Useful properties of blackberries

Blackberry fruits contain a large amount of vitamins, namely: carotene (provitamin A), vitamins C, E, P and K. They also contain minerals: sodium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, iron, chromium, molybdenum, barium, vanadium and nickel. They also contain a large amount of glucose, fiber, fructose, pectins, and such organic acids as: tartaric, citric, malic and salicylic acids.Such fruits help to improve metabolic processes in the body and strengthen the immune system, they have an antioxidant and antipyretic effect. Blackberries are considered a natural substitute for aspirin, but unlike a drug, the fruits not only do no harm to the body, but also heal it. Such a berry is recommended for use by people suffering from diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, since it has a beneficial effect on the work of the digestive system. Also, blackberries have been used for a long time and quite successfully in the treatment and prevention of diabetes mellitus and urolithiasis. The juice squeezed out of young foliage and fruits of blackberries is used for tracheitis, bronchitis, pharyngitis, sore throat, fever, gynecological diseases, dysentery and colitis. This juice is also used externally for the treatment of dermatoses, eczema, wounds, trophic ulcers and gum disease.

For medicinal purposes, both berries and other parts of the plant are used. For example, leaf plates contain a large amount of vitamin C, tannins and amino acids. In this regard, they are distinguished by astringent, anti-inflammatory, diuretic, wound healing, diaphoretic and blood-purifying effect. An infusion of the foliage of this plant is taken for nervous disorders and heart disease. Tea and a decoction from the foliage are used for anemia, as well as a tonic and sedative for climacteric neurosis. A decoction of the foliage is used for gastritis. Fresh foliage is used in the treatment of lichens and chronic ulcers on the lower extremities.

The roots of such a culture are used to prepare a diuretic for dropsy. And the tincture made from them is used for bleeding and to improve digestion.

Conditions for landing

Choosing the right place for planting blackberries is the key to its high yield. It is necessary to take into account everything that this shrub loves and does not like. For good development, he needs space. Blackberries, like raspberries, produce long lower shoots. The root system is branched, penetrating to a depth of two meters. The size of the site for planting is chosen based on the number of seedlings and the optimal distance between them: from 1 to 2 meters, depending on the variety (creeping or bush).

Another important selection parameter is the degree of illumination. Blackberries prefer sunny and sheltered places from the wind.

It is advisable to plant all creeping varieties along natural or artificial supports. Most often these are all kinds of fences and trellises.

The main requirements for the soil are moderate moisture and air permeability. The most picky about the quality of the soil are bush varieties. Fertile soil, loam or sandy loam are necessary for kumanik. Rosyanika is less whimsical. It bears fruit well on heavier soils, but does not tolerate prolonged stagnation of moisture.

If the soil lacks the substances necessary for the optimal development of the plant, this will certainly affect its growth, yield and taste of berries. Therefore, when growing garden varieties of blackberries, special attention is paid to feeding.

The choice of location also depends on the correct neighborhood of cultures. The blackberry has a special feature: it is a nitrogen fixer. This indicates the ability of the shrub to enrich the soil with oxygen. Therefore, the apple tree is the best neighbor for him.

A tall tree nearby will protect the blackberry bushes from sudden gusts of wind

It is not recommended to plant blackberries next to raspberries, strawberries or strawberries. These plants have many common diseases and pests. Such a neighborhood can lead to the rapid reproduction of the most common pests of berry crops.

Advice! Blackberries prefer moderately acidic soils. If sorrel, horsetail and moss grow well on the site, liming of the selected area must be carried out before planting. For this purpose, dolomite flour is added at the rate of 350-500 g per 1 m2.