Preparing a climbing rose for winter - pruning, warming and other work

Rarely does anyone think about how much strength, energy and knowledge a gardener needs to reproduce the annual flowering of a climbing rose. Only a well-groomed plant can give its full potential in the form of a magnificent and lush bed of roses and arouse the admiration of passers-by.

If you do not have some experience and do not know how to cover a climbing rose for the winter in order to maintain the integrity and rapid growth of shoots, then you should read this article. It contains valuable advice from experienced gardeners who have been growing the "queen of flowers" on their plots for many years and rejoice in the splendor of flowers every summer.

The specifics of preparing a rose for winter

The second typical mistake in the period of autumn work with this plant (as with any other) is to assume that it is enough in the fall only to properly prune, and then reliably cover it. In order for a flower to endure the period of cold weather well, it must meet it strong, healthy, capable of withstanding all the upcoming trials. Therefore, the competent organization of work implies that the climbing rose for winter should be prepared even ahead of time, starting from the last month of summer. If this is not done, then all further activities, even those carried out with high quality, do not guarantee that the next year the bushes will delight you with beautiful flowers.

Important features of autumn feeding

Fertilizing roses in the fall requires compliance with several important nuances.

• It is better not to use mineral and organic nitrogen fertilizers in the fall - they can make the rose grow, and before the onset of winter this is not necessary at all.
• Care should also be taken with manure - it contains nitrogen. It is better to scatter it under rose bushes in late summer or early autumn.
• Top dressing in the fall is done twice - in early September and in October, shortly before the arrival of the first frost.
• The type of top dressing must be chosen, focusing, among other things, on the condition of the soil. If the fall is rainy, it is better to prefer dry fertilizers that do not require abundant watering.

What tasks need to be solved

Promote the strengthening of the wood of the climbing rose, first of all, one-year-old shoots, and at the same time stop the appearance and development of greenery. For this purpose, since about mid-August, soil fertilization with nitrogen-containing fertilizers has not been carried out, since they reduce the frost resistance of the plant and initiate the growth of “young animals” that will definitely not survive the winter. To add nutrients to the soil, it is worth switching to formulations containing elements (and their compounds) such as potassium and phosphorus. They contribute to the maturation of the wood and the strengthening of the root system of the flower. The most affordable (and therefore widespread in the private sector) "autumn" fertilizer for climbing roses is superphosphate.

Stop cutting open buds. No matter how much you want to decorate your house with these beautiful flowers, you should not do this. The reason is simple - in the area of ​​the cut (just below), buds are formed and new shoots begin to grow. And this, as noted, is more than undesirable before winter. The same applies to the "boxes" remaining in place of the buds, which have already faded.

Towards the end of autumn, it is necessary to remove the leaves from the climbing rose. If everything does not work out at once, then at least most of them.This contributes to the early transition of the flower to a pre-winter state of rest. If for some reason it does not work out to do it in one day, it's okay - no one limits the number of "approaches". The meaning of this work is that the "falling asleep" climbing rose will tolerate any mechanical stress much better (practically painlessly); in this case, cropping. By neglecting this measure, gardeners with a lack of experience in growing it make the third most common mistake.

Autumn care

Before the onset of cold weather, several more measures must be taken to slow down the growth of shoots, strengthen stiff stems, and inhibit root growth.

In order for the prepared bush not to form new buds and shoots, you need to stop cutting the plants. After all, the kidney usually appears below the cut and stimulates the growth of the individual.

After the bud stops blooming, a "box" remains in its place, which is usually eliminated so that it does not violate the aesthetics of the site. However, you do not need to do this in the fall, because this will provoke the appearance of new buds.

On the bushes planted this year, all the buds are usually removed in the spring so that the garden flower grows as many shoots as possible. However, in the fall, on the contrary: it is worth leaving any flower ovaries, even the smallest ones. In such conditions, all shoots will easily "survive" the winter climate.

In late autumn, you need to remove all (well, or at least most of it) foliage from plants. It is better to do this in stages, starting from the lower organs and ending with the upper ones. Eliminating the leaves helps the flowers move into a state of winter calm. In addition, disease may appear on some sheets. Such organs will quickly rot when the temperature changes.

Climbing rose pruning

Why is it done:

• To simplify the procedure for sheltering the plant for the winter.
• For prevention purposes. By pruning, the gardener at the same time relieves the climbing rose of shoots that are affected by any disease, have dried up (and therefore will not give more flowers), are broken, or do not develop as needed, thereby incorrectly forming a bush and interfering with the rest.
• To remove young growth, not fallen leaves. Leaving the newly appeared shoots is pointless. First, not all of them will survive the winter. Secondly, the fewer “eaters” there are on the bush, the more nutrients will get to the strong, developed stems. Everything is different with the leaves. They must be removed in order to reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture. With the onset of cold weather, the bark system does not work as efficiently, so if you leave foliage on the stems, then the so-called dehydration of the plant can occur. This work begins from the lower level of the branches, and gradually they are removed to the very top.

Pruning time

There is no definite recommendation on the timing of this agrotechnical event, in principle, due to the fact that each region has its own climatic conditions. You should focus on the weather. As soon as the average daily temperature is set within zero or slightly lower, you can start pruning. But there is also a nuance here. The climbing rose should have plenty of time to adapt to the cold. Therefore, you need to take into account the forecast for a couple of weeks ahead. If weather forecasters predict that frosts will hit in a few days, then this event should not be postponed, otherwise the plant may die without shelter.

The specifics of pruning a rose

The general rule (for most varieties of flowers) is that in order to provide reliable shelter for the winter and to facilitate this work, the stems are shortened so that the bush rises above the ground level by no more than 30 - 40 cm. But the pruning itself is done in different ways, depending on from the group of plants to which this climbing rose belongs. Such a classification implies a division (albeit somewhat conditional) according to varieties.

• Group 1. It includes climbing roses, which give flowers on last year, basal side shoots. For example, Perkins, Dorothy, Excelsa. It is these very branches that need to be cut off, since the second time these shoots will not give flowers. After removing them, young shoots will appear in this place next season.

  

• Group 2. This is a climbing rose of such varieties as "Alberti", "Chaplins Pink" and a number of others. The peculiarity of their development is practically identical to the first group, except that the “young growth” does not germinate as intensively and in smaller quantities. Therefore, the specificity of pruning is that long first-year shoots are completely removed, and shoots that appear on old stems are shortened by about 15 cm.But in any case, the total height of the bush when preparing for the winter should not exceed 35 ± 5 cm.

  

• Group 3. Typical representatives - all varieties of hybrid tea, floribunda. Their distinctive feature is long and flexible branches. Shoots that have faded should be shortened by about 15 cm. In fact, pruning all climbing roses in this group is the simplest.

  

• Group 4. Pyramidal plants. Pruning them implies adjusting the shape of the bush (removing, if necessary, strong stems) and shortening the remaining ones also by 15 - 20 cm.

• Group 5. Vigorous varieties. Their branches can reach a length of 6 m ("Rosefilips", "Banks"). They will have to be dealt with in accordance with local conditions. If the winter is relatively mild, then pruning may not be done. For regions with severe frosts, it is done according to the technique applied to climbing roses of the third group.

What to do additionally

Before covering the plant for the winter, it is necessary to thoroughly disinfect it. And this applies not only to the rose itself, but also to the soil on which it grows. Those who neglect it make the fourth common mistake. With a visual examination of the bushes, it is impossible to identify absolutely all lesions. Therefore, treatment with appropriate preparations is one of the integral components of the process of preparing a rose for winter. This is done by spraying with antifungal agents, and any self-respecting summer resident always has a garden sprayer.

How to keep your garden healthy

First of all, roses should be fed with superphosphate. As fertilizers, you need to use those that will strengthen the flowers. At an ambient temperature of just below 10 degrees Celsius, young shoots must be removed so that they do not become woody. Pruning plants early is also unacceptable. This can lead to the emergence of new shoots.

After cutting, the flowers must be whitewashed with special paint. You can buy it at a gardening store or make your own. To do this, you need a mixture of water-based paint and copper chloride. The paint is applied with a soft brush and rubbed thoroughly into the wounds of the plant. As a rule, they whiten from the ground upwards about 20 centimeters. Then peat is poured.

Since it often rains in autumn, plants need to hide from excess moisture. Experienced flower growers usually lay the film at an angle so that the water flows down and does not stagnate, or they install metal arcs, while making small grooves near the arcs. Then it is worth shortening the shrub by a third of its growth.

When preparing flowers for the winter, it is important to cover the climbing roses in the fall. Care and preparation for winter shelter takes place in dry, sunny weather in two ways:

Air dry shelter

First of all, the roots of the bush are covered. This is necessary in order for the flowers to recover and bloom in full force in the summer. If you don't pay enough attention to the roots, the plant will die.

Despite the fact that in all regions of the country the weather is different, an air-dry shelter is suitable for such a garden plot, which is located in a low place, and where there is high humidity or groundwater.

Further, the shrub is freed from the leaves, which are subsequently burned and the bushes are tilted to the ground, using the materials at hand. The plant should be bent before it loses flexibility. With such a shelter, pruning is often not done, but only young shoots are removed, dry sand is poured around the trunk of the plant. When frosts come, a frame 80 centimeters high is made for this shelter and covered with roofing material. And with the onset of severe frosts, the frame is completely covered with insulation or a protective film.

The shelter must be reliable and durable so as not to let in excess moisture and cold wind, as well as withstand the load from the snow cover. With the onset of spring, everyone removes and ventilates the bush to give the flowers access to the sun's rays.

Shelter flowers for the winter

For regions with mild winters

There are no difficulties with insulating a rose in such a climate. In varieties with long shoots, the stems are bent down and fixed on the ground (as an option - with small staples). If a rose develops on a support (for example, of an arched type), then the branches are "attached" directly to its elements. It remains only to cover it with spruce branches or an appropriate material for insulation.

With undersized species of a flower, it is even easier. With a small height of the bush (after pruning), it is enough to cover it with a cardboard box and cover it with shavings, sawdust, humus, peat or pine needles on top. The choice of options is impressive. The main thing is to provide that, if necessary, it is possible to carry out high-quality ventilation of the space under the "dome" to prevent the climbing rose from drying out.

Literally any mulch is not suitable for such a lightweight way of sheltering a climbing rose. There are often recommendations for using straw, old leaves, tops or something similar. This should not be done for the reason that small rodents like to settle in the same foliage or grass for the winter. In addition, it is not a fact that there are no garden pests on the “greenery” removed from the territory. In principle, it should not be on the site, since all plant debris must be immediately burned.

What fertilizers to feed roses in autumn

The main purpose of the autumn feeding of garden roses in the open field is to stimulate a beautiful and lush bloom in the coming season. For this you need to apply fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. These substances are not only necessary for the formation of numerous lush buds, but also potash-phosphorus fertilizers increase the ability to withstand adverse weather conditions, frosts, diseases and pests, stimulate the maturation of wood.

It is also recommended to make calcium.

By the way! you can use ready-made complex fertilizers for roses in the fall (liquid or granular), you can buy them at garden centers or specialty stores. You need to apply according to the instructions.

And you can use mineral dry granular fertilizers or do it yourself balanced solutions from different preparations.

In the fall, in no case should you feed the rose bush with fertilizers containing nitrogen in the composition.... After all, this element will cause the growth of green mass, which will become an obstacle to the normal preparation of the plant for winter, because of this, they can freeze out, and even die.

Important! It's no secret that roses love organic fertilizers. However, it is not recommended to abuse them in autumn, because they contain a lot of nitrogen. In this case, you can simply mulch flowers in a small amount with organic matter.

Fertilizers for root feeding of roses in autumn

As mentioned above, you can add at the root liquid fertilizers (they are better absorbed), or dry granular (absorbed more slowly, but have a prolonged effect, gradually dissolve and feed the shrub during autumn and winter).

To feed roses under the root in the fall, you can prepare solutions from mineral fertilizers according to the following recipes:

• potassium magnesium (30 grams) + 10 liters of water;
• superphosphate (15 grams) + potassium monophosphate (15 grams) + 10 liters of water;
• superphosphate (25 grams) + potassium sulfate (also called potassium sulfate (10 g) + boric acid (2 grams) + 10 liters of water.

Fertilizers for foliar feeding (spraying)

For foliar autumn feeding of roses, you must first prepare a solution. For example, you can spray with solutions according to the following recipes:

• superphosphate (5 grams) + 1 liter of hot water, wait until it is completely dissolved, and mix the resulting solution with 10 liters of water (standard bucket);
• superphosphate (5 grams) + potassium monophosphate (5 grams) + 10 liters of water;

Note! Before spraying, you need to wait until the fertilizer is completely dissolved in water.

Folk remedies for feeding roses

Folk remedies are not as effective as mineral or organo-mineral remedies, however, they act more mildly. Great for adherents of organic farming, because they are not able to significantly harm plants and soil. However, if the dosage is violated, harm can still be caused, so you need to follow the feeding scheme and follow the recipes.

Consider the popular and effective recipes for feeding roses in the fall:

• Yeast feeding. Dry yeast (10 grams) + sugar (2 tablespoons) + 10 liters of warm water. Let it brew for 2 hours, and then stir with 50 liters of water, stir the solution well and use for watering at the root.

Important! Immediately after adding rose yeast, you need to sprinkle the tree-trunk circle with wood ash (this is a potash fertilizer). Because yeast begins to actively absorb potassium from the soil.

• Compost. Of course, this substance cannot be classified as "folk remedies", because it is a standard organic fertilizer, but we will consider it as an option anyway. It is necessary to use well-rotted compost. However, it is impossible to bury and bury it in the ground, it is enough just to spread out a small layer (5-7 centimeters) in the near-trunk circle. Organics will slowly and smoothly feed the plant, and will also act as a mulching material.
• Banana peel. A banana peel as a potash fertilizer can be buried in the bush near the trunk. However, the effectiveness of such a folk remedy has not been proven.
• One of the most popular folk remedies for feeding plants in the garden is wood ash... There are several ways to use organic matter for roses: You can simply sprinkle ash on the surface of the soil around the trunk circle (100 grams per square meter of area).
• For watering at the root, you need to make an infusion: 200 grams of the substance (that is, one glass) you need to pour 10 liters of water, leave for 10 days, stirring constantly.
• Foliar spraying can be carried out with the same solution, but the dosage must be reduced - by 10 liters of 100 g of ash.

For areas with severe frosts

Hilling

The bottom of the climbing rose bushes, as well as its root system, needs the most reliable insulation. You can cover this part of the plant with soil, mixtures (for example, earth + peat), needles, sawdust or some kind of fertilizer (humus, compost, the same peat), which is even better. The expediency of the choice depends on the specifics of the soil on the site, and with this in mind, it is easy to make the right decision.

Dome shelter

• Lay insulation (roofing paper, burlap), and cover with old branches or spruce branches on top.
• The next layer is a polyethylene film, the edges of which are fixed on the ground with bulk earth or something heavy (trimming metal pipes, bricks, etc.).

Organic fertilizers

It is recommended to apply autumn fertilizers for abundant flowering of roses in spring and comfortable wintering in several stages:

• In early September. It is carried out after the bush has faded. The goal is accelerated ripening of shoots and normalization of the substrate balance.
• Before the immediate onset of cold weather - in late October / early November. Designed to protect the root system.

To nourish the earth with organic matter means to provide the flower with the necessary elements for a long time, which is due to the ability of the means used to gradually penetrate into the soil.

The pluses also include the full range of nutrients contained in the composition.

Top dressing is carried out in several stages

Rose garden care in October

The features of this stage are as follows:

1. We stop loosening the soil under the roses to slow down the access of oxygen to the roots;
2. We stop watering roses and feeding;
3. If October is rainy, then the rose garden needs to be covered with a film and water is drained from the roots;
4. At this stage, disease prevention is required - spraying and cleaning the bushes.

You need to follow these steps:

1. Spraying bushes with 1% Bordeaux liquid. This will rid the stems of bacteria and pests;
2. Tear off all foliage and fold over unripe buds. You do not need to cut the buds yet, this can provoke the release of new inflorescences, especially if October is warm;
3. Cutting the roses. Shrub, miniature and thermophilic roses should be shortened to the height of the insulation. Climbing and standard varieties must be pinched at the point of growth, removed from the support and laid on the ground;
4. We transplant roses that did not grow well this season, or we plant new varieties for the rose garden.

Plant characteristics

Rose is a cultivated, thermophilic plant that needs care. As a result of long-term selection, selection and repeated crosses, several thousand varieties have been bred, which are divided into three groups:

• park;
• garden;
• climbing.

Park hybrids are considered the most hardy. All of them are bred on the basis of rose hips, they bloom beautifully and grow well in a harsh climate.

They can hibernate with or without light cover. Terry species were bred by crossing the Gallic and Damascus roses, therefore they are more thermophilic.

Many garden varieties were created on the basis of evergreen European and subtropical hybrids. They are capricious, require shelter for the winter and adherence to the rules of agricultural technology. They are characterized by continuous flowering with small pauses and short dormancy. By the number of petals, they are classified into double, simple and semi-double.

Varieties with double inflorescences are more demanding on soil and lighting.

Ash

Ash strengthens the roots of roses, but you need to be careful about this kind of feeding: flowers need a slightly acidic soil, and dry ash increases acidity, therefore, it will be more correct to use an infusion of ash.

The procedure for its preparation is as follows: dissolving ash in water, a week-long break, removing white sediment (this is lime that increases acidity), directly processing. You will need a ten-liter bucket of water and 200 g of ash. For fertilizing and feeding roses, it makes sense to use only ash from wood and plant waste.

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Liquid infusions have a number of advantages over dry ash applications. Ash infusion can be used to fertilize not only the roots, but also to carry out foliar processing of plants. You can apply the solution to the leaves using a spray bottle.

What is the difference between autumn rose care?

Spring and summer care for roses is aimed at the active growth and development of plants. Autumn care, on the contrary, provides for the inhibition of their vegetation. Why is this necessary? Roses in the fall change their state somewhat:

• Stem lignification occurs;
• Shoots and buds slow down development;
• The root accumulates nutrition and strengthens;
• All metabolic processes slow down.

This is how nature prepares rose bushes for frost. How to properly care for roses in the fall? Let's figure it out.

Don't rush to cover!

Hiding too early is, as a rule, a manifestation of the gardener's excessive concern for his pets. For some reason, it is believed that roses are sissies who are afraid of even a slight cold snap.But this is not at all true! They perfectly tolerate frosts down to -5 degrees, and for a short time they can withstand much lower temperatures.

With a gradual decrease in air temperature, natural hardening of plants occurs, in whose tissues complex biochemical processes take place at this time. Premature shelter interrupts them, depriving the shoots of natural light and violating the required temperature regime. In addition, autumn weather is often unstable, after frosts, thaws come, and conscientiously wrapped bushes are simply blown out.

However, you should not be late with the winter protection of roses either - with a strong sharp drop in temperature, the shoots may suffer. Experienced gardeners carry out the shelter in stages, without completely covering the bushes until a stable negative air temperature is established and the soil freezes.

Onion husks

Onion peel protects roses from diseases, nourishes plants with many useful substances (organic acids, potassium, magnesium, iron). The husk itself is added before planting, and in the fall the bushes are sprayed with onion solution - we will study this type of feeding.

To prepare the fertilizer, pour 4 cups of onion husks with two liters of hot water, then let it brew for two days and strain. It is necessary to process the rose garden at least three times at weekly intervals.

Signs of nutritional deficiency

It is easy to determine that rose bushes do not receive all the necessary nutrients from the soil by the appearance of the plants. But in order to choose the right fertilizer, you need to know which substances the roses need. The deficiency of each of the elements is accompanied by certain changes in the appearance of the bushes.

The main signs of a lack of fertilizer are listed below:

• the appearance of reddish spots on the leaves, curvature of the shoots and premature fall of foliage indicate a lack of nitrogen;
• small and weak dark green leaves with a reddish-purple underside are a sign of phosphorus deficiency;
• the dried brown edges of green leaves, the reddish tint of young leaves and small flowers on the bush indicate an insufficient amount of potassium;
• if the central part of the leaf acquires a pale shade and gradually begins to die off, causing extensive premature fall of the green mass of the bush, then this is a sign of a lack of magnesium;
• large yellow spots, which gradually spread over the entire surface of the leaf and provoke wilting of the bush, indicate a lack of iron;
• if yellow stripes appear between the veins on the leaves, then this indicates a lack of manganese.

When these signs appear for roses, they prepare liquid solutions of complex fertilizers and irrigate the bushes with them. The concentration of such a solution should be 2 times less than that indicated on the package.

How to carry out preventive measures in the fall?

Autumn is a period of active reproduction of pathogenic bacteria and rot. Pests are looking for wintering places, which are often the stems and leaves of roses. Flowers during this period are especially vulnerable, since all their strength has already been given to growth and flowering, therefore they need the following preventive measures:

1. Regular cleansing of the soil around the bushes.
   It is necessary to remove weeds, fallen leaves and other debris, since all this, rotting, can infect the roots and trunk of plants;
2. Pruning the lower leaves and shoots.
   The lower leaves and shoots are the first to be affected by diseases, so they must be completely removed from the middle of September (at least 30 cm from the root);
3. Treatment.
   After cleansing and removing the leaves, the stems of the roses are treated with fungicides or a disinfecting solution of manganese, soda. You can buy a ready-made disinfectant for autumn processing in a specialized store.

September: last feeding and preparation of planting holes

Potassium-phosphorus feeding

Caring for roses begins in September with feeding the bushes.Abundant flowering takes a lot of nutrients from the bush, so the balance must be restored to strengthen the roots and branches. Top dressing is carried out either with ready-made solutions / granules, or they buy separately phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. They stop the growth of the rose, accelerate the lignification of the shoots and increase the resistance of the bushes to frost.

For autumn feeding, granular fertilizers are preferable, because they are not immediately absorbed, but gradually, thereby not driving the rose to rapid ripening.

The fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, because it affects the growing season, increases the volume of green mass of plants, and in the fall this is just not necessary. If you provoke the regrowth of young shoots by feeding, this will only weaken the bush and reduce the likelihood of normal wintering. And all the green branches will die from the frost anyway.

Pinching also contributes to lignification of shoots. A week after feeding, all the tops of the branches must be cut off in a sector in order to remove the growth point.

Reduced watering

In September, they continue to cut off drying flowers and stop loosening the soil and watering, thereby stopping the growth of new roots. The root system must mature in order to withstand the winter successfully. Even if all the shoots freeze, then one dormant bud is enough to make the bush come to life again. But this requires strong, healthy, mature roots.

But in the middle of the month you can start preparing the land for planting young bushes. Rose growers have a rule: if you want to plant a rose in the spring, prepare the earth for it in the fall. Therefore, in September, they are closely engaged in preparing the soil for the future rose garden.

You can learn more about how to create a beautiful rose garden on your own from the material: https://enn.imadeself.com/ozelenenie/rozarij-svoimi-rukami.html

How to prepare the ground for a future planting?

Having decided on the location of the rose garden, mark the location of each bush with pegs. Consider their size in adulthood, because heavy thickening will prevent the plants from developing normally. They will begin to infect each other with fungal infections and will be poorly ventilated. In addition, the lower part of the bush will begin to turn yellow, and the leaves will begin to crumble. But too rare plantings are also unprofitable. In this case, weeds begin to settle around the rose, and the earth quickly overheats.

When preparing planting pits, they are guided by the size of an adult plant, because the height of climbing roses can reach three meters, and thickening of plantings will only harm them

Focus on the following numbers:

• 30 cm - between miniature roses and patio;
• half a meter - for floribunda and tea roses;
• 70 cm - between repaired;
• meter - between climbing;
• one and a half - between park and semi-climbing.

If roses are planned as part of the composition, then you should provide for free space between them and other plants so that you can prune and cover for the winter without prejudice to other flowers.

If the land on the site is fertile, then use it as part of the soil mixture, and if depleted, transfer it to another place on the site

We select the depth of the planting pit:

• If the soil on the site is rested, and nothing has grown on it before, then all the land that you will dig out of the hole can be used to prepare a fertile mixture.
• If all the land for the rose garden was specially brought, then a hole is dug, focusing on the length of the roots + 15 cm. So, for planting a rose with roots of 40 cm, they dig a hole 55 cm deep and half a meter wide.
• On poor sandy or clayey lands, pits are created deeper - about 70 cm in order to fill them with fertile soil.

Depending on the number of planting holes, prepare the required amount of soil mixture, focusing on the fact that each bush will take about 2 buckets of earth. The whole mixture is created in the following proportion (1 part is 1 bucket): 2 tsp.fertile soil + part of sand + part of peat + part of humus + 0.5 part of weathered clay + part of sod land.

Mineral fertilizers are added to this composition: 2 cups of bone meal + 2 cups of ash + 2 cups of dolomite flour + 100 gr. complex fertilizer for roses. All components must be mixed by sprinkling on a sheet of tin or film, and then scattered over the planting pits.

Advice! If you can't find bone meal in gardening stores, head to the Animal Nutrition Department. It can be sold there as a food supplement.

How flowers are fed in the fall

You can apply fertilizer for roses in the fall in the following ways:

• scatter dry complex fertilizer into the perennial root zone;
• use liquid top dressing "at the root";
• fertilize roses "on the leaf".

For watering flowers, you can use the following composition:
20 g of potassium sulfate, 40 g of phosphoric fertilizer and a couple of grams of boric acid are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This top dressing is applied twice in the autumn season - in the first and last decades of September, in the middle lane, in the Urals and other regions with similar climatic conditions, such dressing should be applied in the last decade of August and in the first decade of September.
For foliar feeding of rose bushes in the fall, the dose of fertilizer should be halved.

In 15 liters of water, dilute with 0.5 tbsp. l. potassium monophosphate and superphosphate. Such a solution should be used for foliar dressing of rose bushes from the beginning of September, making the interval between fertilization in 20-25 days. The last feeding "on the sheet" should be carried out on October 14-16.

Shelter types

There are three types of shelter in the Moscow region of rose bushes for the winter:

• dry air shelter;
• the use of jute bags;
• shield shelter.

The choice depends on the type of roses, planting characteristics. Each gardener decides for himself which method is preferable and more convenient to use.

Dry Air Roses Shelter

Most often, this type of shelter is used for hybrid tea varieties of roses. The shelter is a frame covered with insulation. From above, the frame is protected from moisture by a waterproof layer. Phased installation of such a shelter:

• Frame fabrication. You can use a wooden box with holes or a steel bar cone. Its height should be at least 60 cm, the size depends on the size of the bush.
• A layer for insulation is fixed on the frame from above. It can be lutrasil, spunbond, cardboard. Even spruce branches will do. The main thing is that the insulation material allows air to pass through, maintains an optimally comfortable temperature inside the cone. The insulation must be fixed with a thread or rope. Staples can be used.
• Cover with a layer of film on top, which is fixed with wire or rope. If you used spunbond or lutrasil, you can do without the film by making several layers of these nonwovens.
• At the bottom, the structure is covered with earth.

Jute bags

It is an economical way to protect plants from frost. The rose bush is covered from above with a jute bag. The bottom must be cut in order to place spruce or pine branches inside. It is not recommended to use too much spruce branches, it is necessary to maintain sufficient aeration. An insufficient number of coniferous branches will not be able to sufficiently warm the plant, and this will lead to its death.

After filling the bag, it must be tightened so that a cone is formed. For fastening, the structure is fixed with a rope, which is tied in a spiral. If the frosts are very strong, one more layer on top of the bag is allowed. Better to use a film. This method can be used to cover all types of roses.

Panel construction

If the plants grow in a row, you can use the shield wrapping method. This method is suitable when you need to cover several common plants or climbing roses at once. Spruce branches spread to the ground. The stems of climbing plants bent to the ground are laid out on it.They are neatly fixed with pieces of wire. On top of the fixed lashes of roses, wooden stakes or metal pipes are installed at an equal distance. The cover is mounted on them. There are two coverage options:

• fiberglass or other non-woven durable fabric;
• wooden boards of a certain size.

When using wooden shields, spacers are installed inside, they are necessary to protect plants from a possible collapse of the structure with a large amount of snow. You can spread a film over the shields so that the structure does not get wet.

For reliable fixation, the side walls of the structure are deepened into the soil, the base is sprinkled with a five centimeter layer of soil. The ends are closed with fiberglass or film, which are sprinkled with earth at the bottom.

The use of this type of shelter has its advantages. Inside it, a constant temperature is maintained, spruce branches prevent the development of infection due to its antibacterial properties. Mice who love such secluded houses will not make a nest there because of the thorns. There is also a drawback. In such a design, the rose cannot breathe; it needs regular ventilation. On clear days, the covering material must be lifted from the end to allow air access.

How to cut foliage

It may seem that pruning the foliage is unnecessary, but this way the rose is prepared in advance for winter rest. In addition, it is also a preventive measure that will prevent the appearance of pests or diseases in the fallen leaves.

Important! In autumn, the rose is covered with leaves as much as possible. Most of the foliage is likely to be infected or mottled.

After the excess or diseased leaves have been cut, they must be burned without leaving them around the bushes.

Having a lot of climbing rose bushes in the garden, it is better to remove the foliage in several stages, starting the process in September. If you have a large rose garden, you need to cut off at least diseased leaves, treat the remaining ones with Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate.

Rose care in September

At this stage, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. We stop cutting the rose into bouquets, as this stimulates the growth of new buds. In young roses, which you did not allow to bloom in the summer, you need to leave the last inflorescences and let them ripen;
2. Reduce watering. If September is hot and dry, then you can water the roses once a week until the middle of the month. After watering, we produce it once every 2 weeks and completely stop watering the rose garden by the end of September;
3. We are replacing growth-stimulating nitrogen fertilizers with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This will strengthen the root, and the plant will better survive the cold. Often we do not feed the roses, it is enough to make two dressings.

Your actions this month:

I. Top dressing of roots with potassium phosphate composition

You can scatter dry granules near the roots and lightly tamp them into the soil, or you can prepare a slurry (see tips above) to water or spray the green part of the roses.

II. Last loosening of the soil

It is better to produce it immediately after feeding the bushes. This can ripen the last rosebuds faster.

III. Limited watering

Ideally, roses should be watered in September 2 times - at the beginning and towards the end of the month. If September is not dry, then you do not need to water the rose garden additionally.

IV. Weeding weed

All young weeds should be removed from the rose garden. They can become a source of infection.

V. Removing the bottom foliage of roses

Leaves are also often infected with infections, moreover, their presence can stimulate photosynthesis and prevent the rose from slowing down metabolic processes. All leaves up to a height of 20-30 cm must be removed.

Vi. Stalk processing

After removing the foliage, the bare stems need to be painted with garden varnish, water-based solution or other disinfectants. This will protect the bushes from rot and pests that are looking for a place for the winter in the stems of plants.

Take care of ventilation

Often, in conscientious, but inexperienced gardeners, roses under the shelter are vomited - they die from excess moisture at relatively high temperatures. This is facilitated by:

• construction of sealed, water and airtight shelters;
• lack of ventilation during prolonged thaws or spring warming;
• too early shelter of roses;
• shelter of bushes from which leaves have not been removed.

As a rule, this problem is most acute in those regions where the climate is unstable, and in winter frosts are interspersed with strong thaws. At this time, condensation forms under shelters made of water and airtight materials, provoking mold and rot. If it is not possible to ventilate the winter protective structures as needed, it is worth choosing other options for shelters.

However, breathable materials in such a situation are also not a panacea: for example, popular lutrasil or spunbond usually get wet during a thaw, and then, when the cold comes again, freeze, forming a dense ice crust. Respiration of plants under it is hampered, and they also often die.

If such temperature drops in winter are typical for your area, and you cannot provide the necessary care for roses in the event of thaws, give preference to frost-resistant varieties that do not require shelter and winter well under the snow - for example, Canadian roses.

Transplanting rose bushes

September-early October is the best time to transplant roses. The first in line for a change of residence should be weak roses that did not respond well to care during the entire growth period. For new residents of your rose garden, it is also better to find suitable places in the fall:

The process of transplanting roses is as follows:

• Choosing a sunny, open space for flowers;
• Layout and preparation of holes for planting. Miniature roses can be planted denser (40-50 cm between bushes), climbing and bush varieties require sparse plantings - 1-1.5 meters. The standard size of the holes is 50x50 cm.;
• Preparation of nutritious soil mixture. Peat, sand and compost are taken in equal proportions. The soil for roses can be diluted with clay. Ash, bone meal and other nutritional components are added to the finished mixture;
• Planting seedlings. The pre-soaked seedlings are dipped into the holes by the roots, the root must be straightened. The bush is covered with earth and watered thoroughly. When the water is absorbed, young roses need to be piled up.

When to prune

When considering the pruning process, it should be mentioned that climbing roses can bloom on last year's or young branches. This is the main condition that is taken into account when caring for a plant. Rambler give color only on last year's branches, therefore they are cut in the fall after the completion of the vegetative cycle with flowering. In this case, dry inflorescences must be removed.

Claymers bloom on young branches that are no more than 1 year old, therefore pruning is recommended in early spring after the air temperature in the daytime and at night is kept at around +2 degrees. Pruning at a time when night frost is possible is unacceptable, the frost will "grab" the slices and they will not give growth and flowers. Rot, which is formed as a result of fungal infection, is an equally dangerous problem, therefore, after formation, the plant must be treated with a fungicide.

Disease prevention

In October, it is necessary to take care of the prevention of rose diseases. This requires the following procedures:

1. Spraying. Experienced growers know that parasites can withstand even very low temperatures. Therefore, it is necessary to protect your favorite flowers from diseases for the winter. A 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is suitable for this.
2. Freeing the site from debris. The area where the bushes grow should be completely cleaned of debris and fallen leaves. If you have a compost pit on the site, transfer all branches, leaves into it or burn the garbage.This will prevent the development of diseases and pests.