How to cut currants and gooseberries: the rules for the formation of bushes

Subject to optimal growing conditions, gooseberries can bear fruit for 20-25 years, and this is far from the limit. There are times when the gooseberry pleases with its fruits for 40 years in a row. Of course, to achieve similar results, one gooseberry planting will not be enough. It is necessary to pay due attention to the plant and periodically carry out agrotechnical measures. Cutting the butcher is a mandatory measure, from which the volume of the crop and its quality depend. For the berries to be tasty and large, you need good coverage of the whole bunch. If you do not pay enough attention to the shaping cut of the cuttings of the redwood, you will get many harmless branches that do not exist on the usual berries. About when and how to cut a cutter with a foot, schemes and cutting methods - this article.

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Well-formed bushes of currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle give the best harvest, and they look nicer.

To put berry bushes in order is quite within the power of any sane person. Don't believe me? You continue to shy away from this work under various pretexts!

Time: autumn after leaf fall (October-November)

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Objects: adult plants (over 4-5 years old) of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle.

Action: trim (sanitary and formative

)

classic garden pruner, professional type

long-handled pruner

Tools

When caring for gooseberry bushes, you need to protect yourself with personal protective equipment. As you know, the plant is prickly, due to which you can injure your hands or other parts of the body. You can avoid this with the right clothing. A thick jacket or jacket, as well as necessarily garden gloves, will allow you to work quickly and without injury.

A good pruning shears, pruning shears or file is a basic toolbox, allowing you to accurately and accurately cut dry and unnecessary shoots. You can't do without paint when pruning. It marks the cut branches and indicates the length left.

Why (and is it possible) to prune shrubs in the fall

It has always been a mystery to me: why is the autumn pruning of berry bushes perceived by gardening enthusiasts with caution? After all, such a period has extremely clear and specific justifications:

Plants tolerate surgery more easily when they are at rest or in preparation for it.
To make the right decisions, the pruner must clearly see the "skeleton" of the whole plant, not masked by the foliage.

The wounds make the tree or shrub vulnerable to frost, so the autumn pruning period is only suitable for winter-hardy and short shrubs. Currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle - just winter-hardy and compact (unlike the same apple trees), have the opportunity to spend the coldest months under a snow "blanket". They would even endure winter pruning, but at this time of year they cannot be approached - either mud, then ice, or a snowdrift. You can wait until spring, but these crops come out of their "hibernation" very early. Only there will be an opportunity to get close to them - and the buds have already blossomed! In the fall, after the fall of leaves, it is convenient to choose a suitable dry day and take your time to do everything necessary.

And if you cut it in the summer?

Some hobbyists combine black currant pruning with harvesting. The obstinacy of this very strange practice can only be explained by the stoic attitude of black currants to such barbarism.The biggest disadvantage of summer pruning is that in the leafy state the skeleton of the bush is not visible: it costs nothing to demolish something good, but bad, on the contrary, leave it in place.

Getting rid of unnecessary branches

It's amazing how this simple procedure can scare people. It seems to me that gardeners involuntarily animate plants and do not want to be "executioners". But the bush is completely different from an animal or a person, and its branches are by no means part of the body. Rather, the plant is a factory, and the branches are its workshop.

It is normal practice to close ineffective divisions and direct resources to successful and new ones! Not only a professional can recognize "unnecessary" - it is simply striking. The main thing is to focus not on the tops of the branches, but on the part of the bush that grows out of the ground.

Then you will immediately see one, three or five thick, old branches (often with diseased bark). Examine them and, after making sure that they are topped with a short and worthless increase, schedule for removal.

In addition to them, you will probably find one or two broken or dried branches, as well as several twigs almost as thick as a match at the base of the bush. Your task is to get rid of this ballast.

It often happens that gardeners, not figuring out what's what, trim the bush like a sheep. Or even worse - they cut out the entire one-year increment.

In the first case, they achieve a decrease in fruiting and a catastrophic thickening of the bush in the next season, in the second, they completely destroy the harvest of next year with their own hands.

1. Black currant bush before and after pruning. 2. Launched blackcurrant bush before and after pruning (1 and 2). 2a. Rejuvenation of a separate branch.

Anti-aging treatments

Interested in the intricacies of cutting gooseberries in the fall, it is important for a beginner to know about anti-aging procedures. They are intended for those bushes that have ceased to bear fruit (as a rule, these are 10-year-old specimens). Experts recommend cutting off a significant part of the shrub to artificially stimulate the formation of new shoots. To do this, remove all branches from which the seedling grew. However, you need to be careful and avoid destroying the bush by too radical pruning.

It is better to replace old shoots with young ones gradually, so that in the end about 50 percent of its biomass remains on the bush. Older plants are characterized by large volumes of zero growth and minimal growth of promising branches. It is recommended to remove up to 1/3 of the extra shoots per season.

It is important to understand that it is almost impossible to return the old gooseberries to their previous yield, but it is still possible to improve the general indicators of fruiting. Therefore, it is recommended to weigh all the pros and cons, as well as start anti-aging treatments.

The procedure for pruning gooseberries and currants

First, use a sharp, long-handled pruner to remove the old thick stems. Here you need not so much strength as skill - if it is not there, you can use a garden saw (only then lightly smooth the sections with a sharp knife). Do not leave hemp on currants and gooseberries, so you will often have to work at soil level, almost laying the tool flat on it.

Many novice pruners have the false impression that it is much easier to cut a branch and leave a "stump" than to remove it entirely.

In fact, what is there, what is here you have to do the same movements. The only difference is the result: very often stumps in a matter of weeks turn into nightmare breeding grounds of diseases and pests. Sometimes it happens that the removal of all old branches threatens to make the bush "bald".

In this case, those trunks where the bark is at the bottom is in the best condition, it is better not to remove radically "on a ring", but to cut them "for transfer" to a strong branch. Then take a regular pruner and cut off any damaged, frail medium and thin branches.At the end of the work, coat the sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm with garden varnish. Cut branches are best burned.

1. Scheme of pruning a bush of red and white currants. 2 Scheme of annual pruning of a gooseberry bush

Individual approach

Some berry crops yield only on annual branches, others on those that are older. They have a different ability to form renewal shoots (those that grow from the ground). They also age at different rates.

Therefore, pruning of different crops differs only in two points: which branches are assigned as old ones and how exactly they deal with thickening.

Black currants are rapidly growing and aging. All branches older than five years are subject to removal. There can be a lot of renewal shoots - 3-4 pieces are left.

In red currants and gooseberries, branches older than five to six years are cut off. Bushes do not thicken very quickly, so they are often cut off not entirely, but with a transfer to a strong lateral branch.

Honeysuckle branches must be removed when they stop growing - from about 7-8 years old and older. Unlike currants and gooseberries, honeysuckle does not recover well from the roots. Therefore, an exception is made for her, and when removing old branches, hemp about 5 cm long is left. Bushes need to be thinned.

Viburnum is prone to thickening, so the main purpose of pruning it is to create a ventilated bush - remove the branches that create a "thicket" (those that are weaker and worse).

1a.1b. Pruning a neglected gooseberry bush (before and after pruning) .2.a.2b. Rules for cutting currant branches "on the ring" (a - incorrect, b - correct). 3a.3b. Cutting for translation "(a - wrong, b - correct)

When trimming, we remove all unnecessary and interfering ones:

Old branches that have practically lost the ability to produce a normal crop.
Sick, broken, damaged or clearly misplaced branches.
Thin, frail, weak twigs, if they thicken the bush.
"Supernormal" branches (those that are worse, weaker or poorly located are selected). For example, for currants and gooseberries, it is recommended to leave no more than 4-5 new branches emerging from the ground in the bush. The rest are cut out.

Preparing the necessary inventory

Before starting trimming activities for the summer, you should prepare the right garden tools. It is possible to remove excess branches from berry bushes using a number of tools designed for pruning:

garden hacksaw;
knot cutting tool;
secateurs with two pointed blades;
electric brush cutter;
garden knife.

Sharp pruning tool

When pruning bushes using any of the tools presented, you should follow a certain sequence of actions.

Important! Before starting trimming work, the selected inventory item must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and disinfected.

Sharpening your garden tool is essential to create perfectly straight cuts.

Note. Fresh cuts must be processed with a garden varnish.

It is necessary to carry out the processing of the sections no later than a day after the excess shoots have been removed. Each cut should be lubricated, the diameter of which is close to 10 millimeters.

Top dressing

At the end of summer, all berry bushes stop growing, giving strength to the ripening of the crop and, as a result, become weakened, and in fact winter is not far off. It is for this reason that plants are in great need of additional fertilization.

As an organic fertilizer, you can use humus, compost or rotted manure. Application rate per bush:

currants (red and black), gooseberries-15-20 kg,
raspberries, blackberries-6-8 kg

In addition, berry bushes also need mineral fertilizing, in particular potash and phosphorus. Application rate per bush:

currants (red, black gooseberries - on clay soils: 200 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of potassium sulfate; on sandstones - 200 and 60 grams, respectively;

raspberries, blackberries - on clay soils: 80 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium sulfate; on sandstones - 80 and 20 grams, respectively;

What fertilizers are used for black currant

As a source of phosphorus, it is advisable to use simple or double superphosphate, and potassium - potassium sulfate, potassium salt or potassium magnesium. Under each adult currant bush, close up 2 tbsp. l. double superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potash fertilizer. Complex potassium monophosphate is also suitable, which is introduced at the rate of 1.5-2 tbsp. l.

Some gardeners prefer ready-made mixtures specially designed for berry crops. Purchase fertilizer labeled "Autumn" that is nitrogen-free or minimal. Use the fertilizer in accordance with the recommended packaging rates for black currants or other berry crops.

Instead of mineral fertilizers, ordinary ash (stove or vegetable ash) is also used. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, the ash contains a whole complex of trace elements that have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of berry bushes. Ash is plowed into the topsoil before watering at the rate of 1-2 glasses for each adult plant.

The introduction of potassium-phosphorus compositions for currants is recommended at any time from the moment the berries are picked from the bush and until the beginning to mid-October. In dry weather, granules or a mixture of fertilizers are evenly scattered in the near-trunk circle, then plowed to a shallow depth and abundant planned watering is carried out.

Tillage

It is necessary to carry out the autumn digging of the soil under the berry bushes carefully so as not to damage the root system of the plants. Digging depth:

in the aisles - on the bayonet of the shovel,
in rows between plants - up to 10 cm,
under bushes no more than 5 cm

In addition to digging up the soil, currant and gooseberry bushes can be slightly hilled. You can also mulch the soil beneath them, for example, with peat or fallen leaves (not fruit crops).

Abundant watering

In order for the plants to stock up on moisture for the winter, they must be "watered" to their fill. In this case, the main "water bread" is black currant - it needs up to 30 liters of water per bush. The rest are less demanding - up to 20 liters per plant is enough for them.

Trimming

This operation is very important for shrubs, because in the fall they will begin to build up additional green mass, as a result of which the crown will thicken and, as a result, the plants will bear poor fruit, become more vulnerable to pests and diseases, as a result of which they may even die.

Black and red currants, gooseberries: it is advisable to prune after harvest, while removing all weak and diseased branches, as well as shoots that are more than five years old. In this case, it is advisable to pinch the tops (except for red currants).

Raspberries, blackberries must first be removed from the fruit bearing shoots, which must be cut out at the very ground. After that, in order to accelerate the growth and maturation of lateral shoots, the length of which has reached 0.5 m, it is necessary to pinch the latter.

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In spring, gooseberries start growing very early, when, due to unstable weather, it is sometimes difficult to prevent plants from fungal diseases. Therefore, in early December, on a clear, non-frosty day, I spray the bushes with a solution of potash fertilizers (1 kg per 10 liters of water).In March, I repeat the treatment, only the concentration of the composition is much lower (100 g per 10 l). Such protection reduces the damage to plants by spheroteca 2-3 times.

CURRANT TRIMMING IN SEPTEMBER

We launched the currant bushes a little and did not cut them off at all for many years. I entrusted this responsibility to my husband, and he was lazy for several years in a row ... As a result, I had only to remember about the past harvests of large berries, despite the fact that the currants are good, varietal all, planted in one year. It was a pity to completely part with the bushes, there were still berries, but already smaller ones.

And we decided in the fall at the beginning of October to cut off all the shoots completely, leaving only hemp of 2-3 cm.

And the branches of one bush were generally eaten by some pest in the core, so they burned all the scraps. In the spring, new shoots have grown, which in the second year have already begun to bear fruit. After such pruning, autumn fertilization must be applied under the currant bushes.

When is it better to cut off excess branches on a gooseberry and form a bush - in spring or autumn?

I would like to tell the readers how I care for gooseberries. Pruning is carried out in the spring before bud break. However, in the spring you may not have time: not everyone has the opportunity to break out to the country before the May holidays, and after them there is no end of work! It is convenient to carry out pruning in the fall, when the crop is collected and there are fewer worries. If your mature bushes are in disrepair, I recommend starting with a sanitary cleaning. Remove, without hesitation, diseased, stopped growing and fertile, dry and weak branches, regardless of their age and location. Also, cut off branches that are on the ground or growing too low (unless, of course, you intend to use them for propagation). Remember: gooseberries hate shading! For rejuvenation, I cut the branches to the base or cut them to a strong lateral branch if there is room and space for it in the root of the bush. Do I also cut off unripened, frozen, dried out? and tops of branches damaged by diseases. And if, after the work done, thickening is still observed, I carry out thinning. I spend it until it's time that my hand gets free access to any part of the bush. These are some simple secrets that help me get a wonderful harvest of berries.

Gooseberries with currants, like raspberries, place high demands on soil fertility. This is due to the fact that the intensity of fruiting directly depends on the number of young shoots. For this reason, from the second year of plant life, they need feeding, both organic and mineral fertilizers. As a rule, it is recommended to apply up to 4-5 kg of compost annually for each plant, and under gooseberries in larger quantities than under currant bushes. As for phosphorus and potash fertilizers, it is advisable to use them once every two years and exclusively in the autumn period in order to increase the winter hardiness of shrubs. Fertilization rate for gooseberries and currants (per 1 m2): 25-30 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. If desired, potassium sulfate can be replaced with ordinary wood ash (100 g). A little about slowly dissolving fertilizers On light soils, there is a high risk of leaching of fertilizers from the surface layers by groundwater by the end of the second year. As for the phosphorus-containing fertilizers. then they have the ability. combining with certain substances contained in the soil, form elements that become inaccessible to plants. For this reason, experts recommend applying "organics" simultaneously with mineral fertilizing, as well as giving preference to slowly dissolving types of fertilizers.

Important recommendations

After harvesting the entire crop, shoots infected with diseases or harmful insects can be found on the plants. The branch will have to be heavily pruned. But it is better to get rid of it altogether.

Care should be taken not to leave branches with an empty core.A black mark inside them indicates the presence of a glassy larva. You don't need to feel sorry for such branches. And after cutting it is recommended to burn it.

If there are difficulties in figuring out the age of the shoots, then you need to analyze the bark and wood. They acquire a darkish tint in aged branches.

In addition, pruning currant and gooseberry bushes in the fall involves not only removing old branches, but also those that hang low to the ground and even lie on it.

To increase yields, some gardeners use such a pruning technique as removing shoots older than three years old and those that have not been able to lengthen by more than 2 dm in the current year.

Old branches are cut off at one level with the surface of the earth. At the same time, hemp should not exceed a height of 2-3 cm in order to exclude the growth of tops growing from the root of an obsolete shoot. The cuts are sealed with a garden varnish.

Here are all the features of the basic manipulations of the care of berry bushes in late autumn. The autumn pruning of currants is presented in more detail in pictures and diagrams. We study, watch and apply in practice in our personal subsidiary farm!

Correct pruning of currants in the fall allows you to heal the bush, increase its yield, get rid of a number of diseases and pests. So you shouldn't skip this procedure, unless, of course, you are a responsible gardener.

Understanding how to prune currants in the fall is not so difficult. Of course, pruning black and red currants has its own characteristics, but if you deal with the bushes in a timely manner and do not start them, then this annual procedure will not take much time.

Currant leaves fly around quite early in the fall and immediately after that you can start pruning. Usually this period falls on September, however, during dry and warm autumn, pruning can also be done in October-November.

Pruning currant and gooseberry bushes

The purpose of pruning shrubs

Over time, any berry bushes grow strongly. Forming a bush with the help of competent pruning has the following advantages:

the bush rejuvenates even at a very decent age;
the fruiting period is extended;
pruning allows you to leave the optimal number of shoots so that there are enough nutrients for their active development and fruiting. The crop yield increases several times;
pruning shrubs helps to thin out, improve the lighting of shoots and reduce the risk of plant diseases and damage from pests;
competently formed shrubs have a well-groomed and decorative look.

Therefore, any gardener should prune berry bushes from the first year of planting.

Types of trimming

For the successful cultivation of berry crops, pruning is required, the purpose of which is different.

FROManitar pruning provides for the removal of dry, damaged and diseased branches or growing incorrectly. This procedure is carried out throughout the season at a positive temperature.
Fnursing pruning provides for the design of the crown. It is advisable to carry it out immediately with young seedlings, which will accelerate their flowering and fruiting. A well-designed bush looks well-groomed, it makes it easier to care for it, the lighting of all shoots is improved, their ventilation is reduced and the likelihood of infection with diseases decreases. Fast-growing shrubs form annually, and slow-growing shrubs - every 2 years. It is better to carry out the procedure in early spring.
ABOUTrejuvenating process carried out when fruiting is significantly reduced and young branches grow little. In this case, the old shoots are significantly shortened, without touching the youth, in order to form them in the future as needed. Rejuvenation of gooseberries and black currants is carried out every two years.
INrestorative pruning carried out with a strong thickening of the shrub or when it freezes.Frost-damaged branches should not be cut off immediately, you must wait for the buds to awaken. Hopeless shoots are cut to healthy tissue, the cuts are treated with garden pitch.

More often the process of circumcision is combined.

when to cut currants

When to cut currants and gooseberries

Pruning berry bushes can be done in spring and autumn. Moreover, it is better to do it when the plants are at rest. Namely, in the spring, they make out the bushes before budding, and in the fall after leaf fall.

However, in the spring, the summer resident has a lot of urgent work and you may not have time to do the pruning before the buds bloom, and the pruned shoots may also suffer from spring frosts. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with how to care for currants in spring.

In autumn, it is much more convenient to prune: without foliage, you can clearly see which shoots need to be cut (old, diseased, damaged and growing abnormally).

Noticedthat pruning on the growing moon leads to branching of young twigs, which makes the crown thicker and more luxuriant. And on the waning moon, a young plant begins to build up a root system and take root faster.

The process is recommended to be carried out in dry weather.

How to trim currants and gooseberries

Berry bushes are formed as follows:

cut out all damaged, dry, diseased and old (more than 5-6 years) shoots;
remove all branches thickening the bush, as well as growing incorrectly;
after pruning, there should be 5-6 annual shoots, 4 two-year-olds, 3 three-year-olds and 2-3 four-year olds. That is, the bush should have 20-25 branches.

Formation of black currant... Pruning of seedlings is carried out immediately after planting, shortening each shoot, leaving 2-3 buds. By the end of the season, there are 5-6 annual branches in the bush.

In the second year, all shoots are shortened to 4-8 buds and, naturally, all broken, diseased, damaged ones are removed.

In the third year, perennial branches are cut off by 1/3, annual ones are left. The crop gives the highest yield in 2-5 years. The bush should have 10-15 branches of different ages. Starting from the age of 6, all branches over 5 years old are cut off, just do not do it at one time, it is better to do it 2-3 times. In old bushes, the ends of the shoots are cut off and the branches that have borne fruit are removed. Such pruning allows you to get a decent harvest of large and tasty berries.

When to prune gooseberries: fall or spring

If you believe gardening theorists, then you can prune gooseberries both in the fall and in the spring. Practitioners say that it is better to postpone work until the fall. And not at all because it has great advantages, except that the bushes will remain dormant until spring.

Very often in the spring there is not enough time for thorough preparation and processing of shrubs. It is advisable to perform all work before the start of sap flow, which will be prompted by swollen buds. It starts early. Depending on the climatic zone and weather conditions from mid-March to mid-April.

Therefore, in the first spring, upon arrival at the dacha, it is easy to find hatching leaves on the gooseberry bushes. Everything. Pruning gooseberries during the growing season threatens to weaken the bushes, increases the likelihood of developing fungal diseases. And even leads to the death of the plant.

When to prune gooseberries after harvest

In the fall, after harvest, gardeners will have plenty of time to get ready and properly prune the gooseberries.

You can not cut the bushes in the summer, immediately after fruiting. This contributes to the emergence and development of young shoots, which will not have time to fully form before the onset of cold weather and may die in winter. An exception is made for sanitary pruning, if you urgently need to cut out diseased branches that can become a source of spread of the disease.

When to cut gooseberries in autumn, in what month

The dates for pruning gooseberries in the fall are in October or the first half of November.It is performed after all the foliage has fallen, but before stable negative air temperatures are established. The shrub takes some time to recover and heal wounds.

How to prepare currants for winter

Currants, both black and red, and white are a fairly winter-hardy culture. Plants easily tolerate frosts down to –30 ° C and do not freeze. This means that you do not need to cover the currant bushes in the fall. But there are other works that will contribute to easy wintering, high-quality bud formation and powerful fruiting in the next season.

Pruning currants in the fall

You can form a currant bush both in spring and in autumn. But few people manage to do this at the beginning of the season, because the buds on the berry fields wake up very early, and spring pruning can injure the currants and delay the onset of fruiting.

If you are not sure how to properly cut currants in the fall, then use our tips:

First, remove any dried or rotten branches (they can be distinguished by their gray or gray-black color, lagging bark, lack of leaves and brittleness).
Remove thin undergrowth under the root (without stumps).
Cut off branches lying on the ground or intertwining with each other - they only spoil the crown.
Burn all removed branches, leaves fallen from the bush and old currant mulch without pity, in no case putting them into compost.

An adult currant bush should have 12-15 shoots of different ages. A smaller amount means that you receive less harvest, a larger amount means that the bush is thickened and cannot feed everyone.

After the establishment of negative temperatures, the currant branches must be pulled together with twine in a spiral, compacting the bush. This will allow it to withstand winter winds and not break under the load of wet snow.

Processing currants in autumn

Preparing currants for winter is not only about removing excess branches. It also includes important pest and disease control. You need to start getting rid of diseases in early autumn by treating the bush with copper chloride (40 g per bucket of water) or 1% Bordeaux liquid.

At the end of September, go to the next stage and start preparing the soil for the cold weather. It is in it, at a depth of up to 20 cm, that a greater number of harmful insects winter, which in the spring, with excellent appetite, attack delicate buds and leaves. Therefore, the ground under the currant bushes must be weeded out, and then carefully loosened, being careful not to damage the thin currant roots. On the eve of digging, spray the bushes themselves with a urea solution (a matchbox of granules on a bucket of water). During loosening, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (Autumn or AVA) should be embedded in the soil at a dose of 30-40 g per 1 sq. M.

It is recommended to cover the cultivated land with a new layer of mulch about 10 cm thick, which can be used as hay, sawdust, etc. or cardboard (3-4 layers). As soon as the snow falls, spread it under the bushes and trample it down, and if the height of the snow cover allows, cover the bushes completely - this will allow the currants to winter without problems.

Caring for black currants in the fall is no different from caring for red or white currants.

What is good - do not touch, all unnecessary - into the fire

Armed, I go to fight for a healthy bush and a bountiful harvest. There is no need to be afraid of this simple procedure:

“If you know exactly where
and you are confident in yourself
cut, do not be afraid, thankful
it will be a very bush for you. "

Immediately, I completely remove all the remaining leaves and carefully select all the entrails from the bush. This goes straight to the basin. Then again, with a rake, I pass under the bush, simultaneously exposing the very bottom a little.