Proper preparation of grapes for winter in the suburbs

The rose is quite capricious to the growing conditions. Long frosty winters are especially dangerous. In the southern regions, it calmly tolerates small frosts, but in the northern latitudes, efforts will have to be made to preserve its beauty until next spring. Consider how to cover roses for the winter in the suburbs.

We cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region - rules and terms

When to start preparing for winter

Severe winters reign in the Moscow region. They are dangerous with a small amount of snow and sudden drops of the thermometer by a dozen degrees during the day. Since the beginning of October, summer residents have been on the alert, covering materials have already been prepared for crops that are most sensitive to temperature changes.

The desire to preserve the decoration of the garden until next year is understandable for any gardener, regardless of experience and experience. But without exact knowledge about the characteristics of the plant, it is difficult to do this. Roses have a lot of surprises for budding florists.

The paradox is that the flower tolerates frosts down to -10-12 ° C much easier than a long period of discussion under the covering material.

The optimal time for hiding roses is the end of October. There is still a remnant of heat from the soil, there is no deep freezing of the ground, so even short-term snow will not damage the stems and buds that have formed for the next year.

The need to protect grapes in winter

In winter conditions, even with frosts below -30–35 ° C, but with a stable snow cover 0.5–1 m high, the probability of freezing of grape bushes is minimal, because snow is a good heat insulator and reliably maintains a positive temperature at the soil surface. Mainly technical varieties of grapes are highly resistant to frost, and table grapes (yielding the highest quality fruits) can suffer with a yield loss of up to 50-70% even at temperatures above -23–26 ° C. Wintering fruit buds (eyes) and young seedlings are especially susceptible to freezing. To guarantee a stable harvest, it is recommended to cover grapes of any varieties for the winter, regardless of the degree of frost resistance.

At subzero temperatures, parts of the grape bush begin to be damaged. Vines of European varieties with normal resistance are partially damaged at –16–18ºC, Asian varieties at –12–14ºC, perennial parts of the bush are damaged at –22–24ºC, and roots at –8–10ºC. Prolonged thaws in winter lead to the fact that grapes begin to lose their hardening and may even freeze when the temperature is only –7–9ºC.

E.V. Zhivotovskaya

"Vineyard on your site." Ripol Classic Publishing House, Moscow, 2012

In the Moscow region, with a sufficient height of snow cover and the use of artificial and natural insulation as a shelter, even severe frosts do not interfere with the successful cultivation of grapes. But when, during the winter, low temperatures alternate with thaws, the bushes in the shelters can vomit... Therefore, the best way to winterize grapes in the middle lane is considered a dry (or air-dry) shelter, which involves the use of an air gap between the vine and the covering material.

Video: should you cover grapes

Winter hardy varieties

Varieties adapted for the Moscow region and northern regions:

• Amadeus;
• Gloria Day;
• Pierre de Ronsard;
• Flamingant;
• Gloria de Climing;
• Rimos;
• Tchaikovsky;
• Password;
• Ingrid Bergma;
• Super Dorothy.

Among them there are climbing and standard varieties, terry and classic. The color of the petals is snow-white, pink, yellow, red and burgundy. There are two-colored and changing shade depending on the flowering phase. Some emit a pronounced aroma, others almost do not smell, but captivate with touching tenderness and richness of color.

The varieties are adapted for the Central regions, they take root well in the Moscow region, in the Urals, in the Leningrad region, do not require additional maintenance costs.

But preparation for winter is still necessary, despite the high frost resistance - it starts from the last days of August and continues systematically in the fall until the October frosts.

Preparing a plant for wintering

Preparation for winter is carried out as follows:

• Wait for the plant to shed its foliage.
• The bush is pruned, the vine is pressed to the ground with staples. It should not touch the ground.
• Wooden sawdust or bars are placed under it.

From pests and infections, the vine is treated with lime or copper sulfate. Do not put polyethylene or fallen leaves under the vine: this leads to condensation and decay.

Mildew sick bushes do not leave to winter. They are cut, uprooted and destroyed.

Also choose the material for the shelter of the culture. You can cover grapes for the winter in the Moscow region with several materials: earth, coniferous branches, slate, roofing material, agrofibre. The material should be taken care of in advance. If necessary, it is dried and cleaned from wet soil and mold.

The age of the vine is also important for choosing a method. Young bushes are covered with a "house", trying not to bend or break. They are protected in several ways simultaneously. Older and stronger plants can be bent to the ground or covered with one of the available methods.

Stages and rules

For successful wintering, roses need preliminary preparation. It includes:

• changing the irrigation regime;
• carrying out a series of dressings;
• pruning;
• hilling;
• preventive treatment against pests;
• bending and fixing shoots;
• final shelter.

Periods of thaw and severe frosts are typical for the Moscow region, this fact must be taken into account when preparing roses, creating a specific margin of safety for them, carrying out preparatory measures in full. They are aimed at the rapid stiffening of the trunks, the accumulation of nutrients, the cessation of the growth of green mass and the increase in the frost resistance of the root system.

Watering

Flowers need regular watering

During flowering, the plant needs a certain reserve of moisture, watering is carried out regularly, once a week. Consumption - 12-30 liters per bush.

In dry weather, the frequency is increased up to 2 times.

The autumn procedure only supports the vital activity of the bush, gradually decreases in volume.

By the 20th of September, watering is completely stopped - this slows down the development of shoots, stops sap flow in a natural rhythm, and puts the plant into a state of dormancy. If the roses almost fell asleep by the first frost, then wintering takes place without complications.

Top dressing

In summer, roses need nitrogen - it regulates and stimulates the growth of green mass, promotes the formation of large bright buds and cascading flowering.

At the end of August, it is time to rest. To replenish the nutritional reserve, potash and phosphorus components are introduced. Only a strong, completely healthy and full of strength plant will successfully survive the harsh winter.

The introduction of mineral fertilizers is advisable for the rapid enrichment of the soil.

• Potassium increases immunity, strengthens the root system, enriches the soil, and promotes the establishment of a large number of buds. Potassium sulfate and potassium magnesium are used. The preparations do not contain chlorine and are available in granules, which ensures long-term action.
• Phosphorus improves the absorption of amino acids, increases the winter hardiness of the roots. Applied in the form of superphosphate or phosphate rock, the dosage does not exceed 40-50 g per 1 sq. M. The last feeding is carried out no later than September 15-20.

Organic fertilizers for autumn:

• ash;
• mullein;
• bird droppings;
• decoction of onion peel;
• eggshell.

Compost is not only a valuable fertilizer containing a whole range of useful substances, but also an excellent material for mulching for the winter. It keeps the temperature comfortable for the roots, without blocking the air flow and regulating the humidity level. It is laid out under the base of the bushes after the last watering.

Top dressing is carried out twice. The first is organic, at the end of September - mineral. If it is the rainy season, then it is better to prefer the granular species.

Pruning

The zone of bud formation is considered the most vulnerable to frost.

Therefore, planned autumn care includes mandatory pruning (for rejuvenation, healing and giving the bush the desired shape).

The procedure is carried out only in dry, sunny weather. Weak, diseased and damaged shoots are completely removed (8-10 woody ones are left for the winter). Then cut the young twigs growing inside the bush.

Pruning is carried out in 3 levels. Each gardener himself determines the required degree:

• strong - only 3-4 buds remain, justified for bushes that have undergone the disease and subsequent treatment;
• medium - 7-10 buds remain, it is practiced for an adult healthy plant;
• gentle - means only the removal of tops with fading buds, it is recommended for young plants (up to 3 years old).

A sharply sharpened disinfected pruner is used, all trimmings are removed from under the bushes and burned to prevent the formation of a favorable environment for fungal and bacterial diseases.

Spraying

Roses must be treated from pests

Sending roses to a shelter without preventive treatment from pests and diseases will be a gross mistake. For bushes, wintering in a confined space in conditions of high humidity is already becoming a difficult test, provoking the appearance of diseases.

Typical rose diseases are:

• powdery mildew;
• black spot;
• mosaic;
• rust;
• stem cancer.

Treatment with copper-containing preparations and iron vitriol, timely removal of damaged areas of the bush will help to protect them from them.

Hilling

During the growing season, root respiration is very important for the harmonious development of the bush and preventing waterlogging of the soil. The measure stimulates the growth of new shoots, the awakening of dormant buds, but in the fall the task is completely different.

Hilling is of a sanitary and prophylactic nature; it is carried out in September or early October in order to destroy the passages and burrows of pests in the soil that are going to winter in comfortable conditions. Closer to the trunk, a small mound is poured, covering the vaccination site, compost is placed on top.

Pest control

Often they winter on the stems and in the root zone:

Treatment with drugs Akarin, Agravertin, Fitoverm, Iskra Zolotaya, Zubr, Aktara is effective against them. Spraying is carried out in dry, calm weather, the last one ends no later than September.

Bending down shoots

With gentle and medium pruning, the stems are bent. The frost-affected zone is just half a meter from the ground. This is done gradually, avoiding great efforts so as not to break the shoots prepared for wintering. The optimal distance to the ground will be 20-30 cm. The laid shoots are fixed with arcs.

Interesting: it is more convenient for trench plantings to create a single shelter, in which plants winter better than in individual ones.

Types of covering material

There are 3 types of shelters: jute bags, shield and dry air.For the Moscow region, with its frequent sudden thaws, it is better to use combined types, where the film does not touch the branches, but is laid on one of the frame types.

Dry air

Shelter will help preserve plants

First, a cone is built over the plant from strips or rods of reinforcement, a heater is attached to it, which serves as geotextile, lutrasil or spunbond. Good for freestanding bushes.

Cardboard and spruce branches also keep the temperature stably. A film or non-woven material is placed on top. The lower part is buried or pressed with bricks.

Shieldova

Ideal for weaving species. The stems of roses are laid on a bed of spruce branches or mulch, fixed with pegs. Above, they make up the "house" shields or stretch fiberglass. They are carefully lowered, the walls are sprinkled with earth.

What materials are suitable for sheltering grapes

If the area has stable snowy winters, then the frost-resistant vine can be hidden in a snowdrift. After the snow falls, the grapes are bent to the soil and a small mound is thrown on top. Snow should be tamped a little and periodically tossed more. This simple method is not suitable for regions with erratic winters, when thaws and snow melt can occur in the middle of the season. Therefore, here you need to choose more convenient and reliable materials for covering the vine.

Lapnik

The ideal remedy - coniferous spruce branches - will help to properly cover the grapes. The prepared and twisted vine is laid on pine or spruce branches, spread with a layer of 5-10 cm. On top of the grapes, spruce branches and wooden shields are also placed. Additional cover can be a film or roofing felt.

The advantages of this method: the shelter allows air to pass through, in the spring the entire structure is easily removed, the bushes remain dry, do not become infected with diseases.

Minuses: coniferous forests cannot be found everywhere.

Reed

Used like coniferous branches. You can simply lay dry reeds on the ground or use commercially available mats or mats. Reeds are laid on the ground, followed by a vine and again a reed shelter.

pros: reed mats serve as a good heat insulator and a reliable shelter from the cold. The bushes will not freeze in them. Avoid such funds and mice.

Minuses: a large vineyard will need a lot of such mats, which means that you will have to pay a certain amount, which not everyone can afford. And picking up ordinary reeds, if there is no river or swamp nearby, is impossible.

Sawdust

Before pouring sawdust, cover the ground under the grapes with a film. Next is the vine and again a layer of sawdust. Above you need to install a sheet of slate. Such a multilayer "sandwich" is necessary to protect the sawdust themselves from moisture. It is unlikely that they, having been saturated with water, will become a good shelter for the vines in winter.

Pros: the vine is dry, it can withstand even severe frosts. Sawdust is an economical and environmentally friendly material.

Minuses: must be protected from moisture. It will take a long time to clean it all up in the spring. Mice can settle in sawdust.

Straw

This material is used as follows: first, shields of boards are laid on the ground under the vine, grapes are placed on them, and the top is covered with straw. At the end of 20 days, another layer of straw is added. Fix the entire structure.

pros: the way is environmentally friendly and cheap.

Minuses: straw must be purchased or prepared by ourselves, rodents settle in it, means of getting rid of them are needed.

Film

The plastic film is able to keep vines well during winter frosts. Just do not buy the usual one, which is used for greenhouses.

pros: This is a durable option, by choosing a film of medium thickness, you can not be afraid that it will deteriorate or break.

Minuses: it is imperative to observe the application technology specified in the instructions.

How to cover climbing roses

Among climbing roses, there are 2 varieties:

• some easily fit under the shield shelter and are also quickly placed on the trellises in the spring;
• others are preferable not to touch because of the voluminous branches. But you will have to cover in any case, otherwise they will simply freeze out.

Material requirements and shelter times are the same as for standard varieties. For soft hardening, it is recommended to take your time and hold frost-resistant varieties at temperatures up to -5 ° in the open state. The greenhouse effect for wandering species is much worse than a slight frost. It leads to decay of the roots and premature awakening of the kidneys.

You should know: weaving varieties almost never shed their leaves on their own, they have to be manually removed in small batches, starting from the lower tier.

The choice of covering material is wide:

• the film transmits light, lasts only a year, retains moisture;
• spunbond is lightweight, easy to use, durable, unable to fully protect from frost;
• burlap has a low cost, is affordable, folds easily, gets wet, forms an ice layer;
• cardboard is perfect as an inner layer for a shield base;
• roofing material protects from cold and rodents, is used as a frame;
• coniferous spruce branches are economical, frightens off rodents, keeps a stable temperature, and gets wet.

Most often, a combined two-layer coating is used, which prevents the bushes from getting wet and freezing. If the branches can be removed from the frame, then they are laid under the shield shelter. If not, then a warm cocoon of 2-3 layers is built around the area. Insulation is placed inside, and a film is placed on top.

In the Moscow region, absolutely all varieties of roses are covered, but this must be done correctly. Know if your rose needs a short fall pruning. Information about this is indicated in the characteristics of the variety. The shoots should be bent to the ground in advance and fixed so that the branches get used to the bent position and do not break. When arranging a shelter, it is important to provide for the presence of an air gap so that the plants do not come out.

When to start and what does winter preparation include?

How well the grapes will withstand the winter cold will depend on how well they were cared for during the growing season and whether they were properly prepared and covered for the cold season.

It is useful to find out which varieties are best grown in the Moscow region.

Preparatory measures for winter can be roughly divided into two stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Shelter.

Preparation begins in the fall, when the fruiting stage comes to an end. It is important to know that the vine that is covered with sufficient wood, that is, is ripe, successfully tolerates the winter. Therefore, at the beginning of autumn, the efforts of the grower should be focused mainly on ensuring that as many vines as possible become lignified. Woody shoots are brown in color, they are warm even when exposed to frost, they bend well and do not break.

If unripe green vines are found during autumn pruning activities, they will have to be removed. After all, not only will they not be able to successfully winter, they can also become a source of infection of healthy lashes with fungal diseases.

Important! A high percentage of survival after winter in the vine, which has a thickness of 0.6-1.3 cm, and its core is no more than a third of the diameter. It is in such branches that the greatest amount of vitamins and minerals is contained, which will prevent the shoots from dying in frost.

When to cover roses in the Moscow region, terms

The winter period in the Moscow region lasts quite a long time. Snow falls in early November and completely melts by mid-April. Sometimes the cold snap starts even earlier. If, according to the weather forecast, serious frosts and snowfall are coming, it is urgent to cover the bushes in order to protect them from freezing and death.
The approximate period for sheltering roses can be considered the first decade of November, but at the same time, the weather characteristics of the current season must be taken into account.In order to better navigate the calendar of works, some gardeners conduct long-term observations of the temperature schedule and other weather phenomena.

Watering grapes in the fall in the suburbs

Water the vineyard in front of the winter shelter so that the earth is saturated with moisture and better retains heat. Pour about 20 buckets under one bush. When the water evaporates, it warms the roots of the plant well. Without sufficient watering, the root system of grapes often freezes out, which leads to the death of the entire bush.

At what air temperature to start covering the rose garden

Covering work cannot be started too early. In case of light frosts (-1-3 ° C), it is better to leave the rose without shelter, otherwise the death of the bushes may occur. Under the material, the shoots will continue to develop, they will release buds, which, under the influence of heat and moisture, vomit out - as a result, the plant will no longer bloom in the spring.

Before starting the covering work, you should wait until the average daily temperature reaches -5-7 ° C, wait another week, and only then build "houses" for roses.

On a note! It is necessary to do the insulation of the rose garden in dry weather. If work is carried out in high humidity, the risk of developing fungal diseases increases.

Varieties for temperate climates

Crop varieties should be selected based on the characteristics of the climate of the region. Berry types must be:

• very early or early;
• winter hardy and disease resistant;
• self-pollinated;
• suitable for open ground.

Read also: Whitefly on tomato seedlings: how to fight

The place of planting of the culture is also considered an important factor. It shouldn't be windy. Choosing non-sheltering (that is, those that do not protect in winter), grape varieties, remember that in the winter without snow, even these types of crops can die. The roots of the bush will freeze and the plant will not bloom in spring. The maximum snowless temperature that the bush can withstand is -12 ° C.

In the presence of protection in the form of snow, the stability increases to -50 ° C. This is the reason why, in the absence of a layer of snow, even non-covering crops are recommended to be covered. There are many ways to protect yourself: from simple and cheap to complex and expensive.

Preparatory work before the shelter

In order for the rose bushes to winter well, it is necessary to carry out appropriate preparation. Roses are fed, spud, cut, treated for diseases and pests. All these procedures are done in advance:

1. Top dressing. In autumn, roses need fertilizers with a high potassium content. It is this element that strengthens the shoots and roots of the plant, making it resistant to adverse environmental influences. For this purpose, ready-made industrial autumn fertilizers for roses are used. Instead, ash can be added to the root zone and irrigated. Ash powder contains all the components necessary for plants in autumn. You can independently make a mixture of 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate and 2 g of boric acid (per 10 liters of water). If the roses were planted in the spring this year, they do not need autumn feeding.
2. Pruning. In the second half of September, the stems of roses are cleaned of wilted leaves, which only evaporate moisture. If the leaves are left under cover, they can rot or become a source of fungal infection. Pruning the stems is carried out when the temperature drops to 0 ° C. For tall roses, the stems are cut about 2/3 of the length. The cut is made 1 cm above the last bud. Deep pruning is especially necessary in the case of rejuvenating bushes. In low-growing varieties, the shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm.
3. Preventive treatment. Even if the roses did not hurt in any way in the current season, they should be treated with a 2% solution of Bordeaux liquid or ferrous sulfate before covering. For the same purpose, drugs can be used.For example, "Skor", "Topaz", "Fundazol", "Hom", "Ridomil Gold". All funds are used strictly according to the instructions. If any of the drugs was used in the spring, it should be replaced with another. Biological fungicides are not suitable for use in the fall, as they work effectively only at temperatures above 15 ° C.

   

4. Hilling. After processing, the roses are spud up to a height of 30 cm. Beforehand, plant debris is collected under the bushes, and the earth is digged. This technique will promote good aeration in the lower part of the bush, which will serve as protection from frost for the roses.

Unlike other crops, roses do not require water charging; with the onset of autumn, plants, on the contrary, begin to water less often. Excess moisture will stimulate the development of new shoots, and on the eve of wintering it is inappropriate.

In dry warm weather, roses are watered every 7-10 days, starting from the second half of September, the soil should be moistened no more than once every 2 weeks. In rainy weather, decorative bushes, on the contrary, protect from excess moisture by erecting a canopy over them or draining water from the root zone using a small groove.

Now all that remains is to build a reliable shelter for the roses for the winter, so that the plants do not die, but pleases them with luxurious flowering next season.

Helpful hints

Do not take cover next to a bush. This leads to the exposure of the roots, their freezing and death of the plant. It is optimal to retreat from the head of the bush by half a meter.

Use a three-layer shelter in the suburbs. For the first layer, take garden soil (from 5 to 15 cm), for the second - organic matter of the same thickness, for the third - loose soil 25 cm thick.

Provide additional protection to the roots, especially in winters with little snow.

Be sure to dig the soil twice a year - in spring and autumn. So, you will ensure good moisture absorption and reduce the risk of freezing grapes.

Read also: Pepper Swallow: reviews, photos, yield, description and characteristics

In a snowy winter, do not rush to make a powerful shelter. Snow will perfectly protect plants, just take it from the paths and place it on the bushes.

Ways to hide roses for the winter in the Moscow region

Gardeners with considerable experience in growing roses have already adapted to using improvised means to hide them. It is not at all necessary to purchase expensive materials. You can use for covering work what is always found in the garden - spruce branches, a mixture of earth and sawdust, wooden boxes, homemade domes, old car tires.

Dry air

Most often, such a shelter is used for hybrid tea roses. In order to create an air gap inside, a frame is installed above the plant, on which the insulation is then laid. The basis of the frame is made of wooden or metal rods 50-60 cm long, of which a cone is made.

As a heater, you can use a non-woven covering material (spunbond, lutrasil), cardboard, spruce branches. The insulation is thrown on top of the frame and fixed with wire or metal brackets. To prevent the shelter from blowing away, the cone is sprinkled with dry earth from below.

Shieldova

The shield method is ideal for covering tall roses. Previously, the stems must be cleaned of leaves, breaking off the foliage along with the petioles. After that, the shoots are tied in a bundle and laid on a litter of spruce branches, directing the branches in the direction of their growth.

On a note! Spruce needles will not only serve as a heat insulator, but also protect the shoots from attack by rodents.

After the bush is laid, it is fixed on top with curved metal rods, sticking their ends into the ground. This will need to be done in two or three places. Then 2 wooden shields are placed over the rose house. Their length should correspond to the size of the bush, and their width should be at least one meter.

Process description for aspiring winegrowers

A step-by-step process for hiding grapes in the Moscow region for those who are just starting to cultivate a culture:

1. After September 10, pruning of one-year-olds (leave one lash with 3-4 eyes) and biennial (leave two lashes) vines begin.
2. The construction of the shelter can be started after October 10 or after the first slight frost (-2 ° C).
3. Sprinkle the base of the stem with soil taken a meter from the central part of the plant.
4. Old vines are tied in bunches and, laid on wooden flooring, are fixed with the help of iron structures (metal concave rods) or improvised means.
5. To prevent the plants from touching the ground, they are propped up with wooden supports.
6. For protection from the wind, wood shields are installed or barriers are erected from earth embankments.
7. On top of the vines are covered in one of the following ways: a) sprinkle with a layer of soil, the width of which is 5–10 cm; b) fall asleep with branches of coniferous trees; c) covered with roofing material or polyethylene; d) build an agrofiber shelter.
8. During the winter (if it turned out to be snowy), make sure that the shelter is under a 60-centimeter layer of snow.

How to cover climbing roses for the winter in the Moscow region, a description

Climbing roses, like other varieties, need shelter for the winter. The culture does not have a pronounced dormant period. Even in autumn, roses can give rise to shoots, form and dissolve buds. If the stems are not covered in a timely manner, the juice in them will freeze with the arrival of negative temperatures, which will lead to tissue rupture.

Experts call such damage frostbite. Pathogens can penetrate into the formed cracks, which are immediately activated at the slightest warming. Through the same wounds in the spring, juice will begin to flow from the climbing rose, which will lead to drying out of the damaged stems.

Features of the shelter of climbing roses:

1. Shelter of climbing roses is carried out at the same time as for other varieties.
2. The shoots are pre-cut to 1/3 of the length. At the same time, old stems are cut out, which can be identified by the dark bark on the stems.
3. First of all, all flowers, buds and leaves preserved on the plant are cut off.
4. Broken and unripe shoots are also removed.
5. It is better to engage in covering activities on a sunny warm day, so that the stems warm up, are flexible enough and do not break.
6. Long lashes of ramblers need to be rolled up in advance in rings.
7. Thick and rigid stems of climbers begin to bend down at the end of summer, hanging heavy weights from the stems.
8. When laying, the roses should be handled as carefully as possible so as not to injure them. Then the plants will winter better.
9. You can cover roses in the Moscow region with a high-density non-woven fabric. The whole bush is wrapped around it, and then tied with twine. However, this method is not very good for thorny varieties. Roses with long thorns will quickly render the covering material unusable.
10. A more complex shelter involves the construction of a frame of boards around the bush, between which large gaps are left.
11. There is another option - making a structure from a metal wire. From above, the frame is covered with a non-woven fabric, and then with a film to protect it from moisture.

You can start building a shelter in advance, in warm weather. In this case, the material should remain ajar from the sides. It is completely closed with the arrival of frost. From below, the fabric is pressed with beams, boards, bricks, leaving the opportunity for airing the structure. Do not use cardboard to cover climbing roses. This material quickly gets wet and loses its protective function, instead of giving off heat to the shoots damp and cold.

It is impossible to cover climbing roses with only one film without a nonwoven backing. On sunny days, a greenhouse effect occurs under the cellophane, the shoots will start to grow, and then freeze. They remove the shelter in the spring in stages, layer by layer.Opening should begin when the ground thaws on the bayonet of the shovel.

Features of the climate of the Moscow region

The climate near Moscow belongs to the temperate continental type. Differs in a limited period of positive temperatures, their sharp drops throughout the year. The warmth at the end of summer is often replaced by long cold rains.

The timing of the shelter of bushes in the Moscow region

Shelter for the winter is carried out after harvesting late varieties in October-November. The exact time depends on the varietal characteristics and the age of the plant.

At what temperature to cover grapes

Ripe vines must undergo hardening by the first cold snap at a temperature of + 3 ° C to 0 ° C. The first wave of frost will stimulate the plant's immunity, increase frost resistance.

When the temperature is set from -5 ° C to -8 ° C, the grapes are covered. If it is not possible to get to the site during the onset of stable frosts, then the insulation is carried out earlier, not forgetting to build two vents on the sides of the shelter. At -10 ° C, the ends are closed completely.

Useful video

Shelter of roses in the suburbs: a detailed description

Shelter roses for the winter. Gardener mistakes

As the queen of the garden, roses need to be carefully cared for and taken care of all year round. When organizing wintering for them, plants should not be left unattended during the cold months. During periods of thaw, the shelter is briefly raised to release accumulated vapors. Correctly overwintered roses will remain strong, healthy, luxuriantly blooming.

A rare garden or suburban area does without the fact that its owners do not plant a beautiful rose in the most conspicuous place. Given the variety of varieties of garden roses, there is nothing surprising in the fact that you can admire them until late autumn.

Park, climbing, ground cover, floribunda - all varieties cannot be listed, as well as shades of color.

My favorite roses are still climbing roses. They are simply irreplaceable for vertical gardening, very decorative and with proper care, the most common site in the Moscow region can be turned into a piece of the flower kingdom.

However, roses require a mandatory winter shelter. And if in southern latitudes you can limit yourself to light warming of the roots or even neglect this, then sheltering roses for the winter in the Moscow region must be done. Otherwise, even if your beauties survive the winter under the snow, you will still not achieve abundant flowering on the frozen shoots.

Preliminary activities

A very significant stage. The gardener is faced with the following tasks:

1. Choose the grape variety wisely. Each culture has species that are ideal for a particular region. So, for the Moscow region, you need to pick up grape varieties that can calmly withstand a drop in temperature. For example, "Laura", "Delight", "Kuban" or "Kodryanka" are considered cold-resistant.
2. Choose the right place for the vineyard and plant it. The plant does not like areas that are heavily blown by the wind. A quiet place and strong shelter is not needed.
3. Maintain the depth of planting grapes in the suburbs. The landing should be deep enough. Of course, it is unrealistic to deepen the seedling below the level of freezing of the soil, but it is better to stop at the maximum allowable mark.
4. Do not forget to feed the grapes with potash fertilizers in the fall. In addition to nutrition, they also perform a warming function.
5. Take care of the option of sheltering the vine in advance. Winters in the Moscow region are snowy, which will greatly facilitate the gardener's autumn work on warming the vine. And the snow cover will save the grapes from freezing. But you need to think about materials and construction even before planting grapes on the site.

If each point is carried out responsibly, then already planted grapes in the Moscow region can be covered in various ways. In order for the shelter to fully fulfill its protective function, the plants are pre-prepared.

When to cover roses

A rose, regardless of the variety, is a fairly frost-resistant flower, and it is quite capable of enduring even severe frosts (up to about minus fifteen degrees) if they do not last long. Therefore, there is no need to rush with shelter, early short frosts are not terrible for roses.

This flower tolerates discussion much worse - in conditions of early shelter, when it is still warm enough outside, and there is covering material on the rose bushes, especially if it is not fabric, there is a very high probability that your beauties simply cannot withstand such conditions and die. It will be much harder to save them.

Therefore, there is no need to rush to shelter, take it up not earlier than the end of October. I repeat - short and not very strong early autumn frosts are not terrible for roses.

Of course, when deciding when to cover roses, be sure to take into account the climatic conditions of the region in which you live. It is clear that in the south of Primorye, where temperatures are often above zero and at the end of November, roses need to be covered much later than, for example, in Siberia or in the Moscow region, where autumn begins in September.

Why do you need to cover grapes

Vineyard in autumn

According to history, the first vine appeared in the Middle East, in countries where summers were hot and winters are moderately warm. And today, many species of this plant are cultivated precisely in regions with a tropical climate. In the Rostov and Astrakhan regions, in the Krasnodar Territory, frosts practically do not decrease to -15 C. In this weather, grapes of the Isabella, Lydia, Christina, Laura, Arcadia varieties can be left uncovered for the winter. But some zealous owners try to predict possible troubles in advance and, just in case, make protection for an expensive and rare vine.

Thanks to the work of breeders, varieties and hybrids have appeared that thrive even in regions with harsh winters. But in order for the vine to bloom again in the spring in the Moscow region, central Russia, Siberia, in the Urals, it is required to cover it during frosts. You need to take this matter seriously, so that later in the spring you will not regret the frozen plants.

Grape young growth and grape hybrids, which do not tolerate frost, require great care.

The weakest point of a grape is its root system.... So, if the soil freezes even by a few degrees, it threatens with rotting of the roots and subsequently the death of the entire vine. Therefore, you need to carefully insulate the trunk circle. A grape vine of even frost-resistant varieties without winter shelter during prolonged severe frosts can lose up to 60-70% of the buds, or it can freeze completely.

How to prepare roses for shelter

Top dressing

During the summer months, during which, with good care, roses bloom almost continuously, the soil, even if summer fertilizers are applied to it, is depleted. Therefore, before sheltering, the rose needs protective and preparatory measures. And cropping is just one of them.

Around the beginning to mid-September, roses must be fed with special autumn fertilizers. Precisely in the autumn, because if you add a standard summer complex to the soil, the rose will begin to release new shoots, and it simply will not have time to properly prepare for winter. Therefore, for example, it is not necessary to introduce organic matter into the soil in the fall.

In the fall, you need to feed the rose with potassium, calcium and phosphorus. You can prepare the fertilizer yourself by diluting the ingredients in a bucket of water and watering the bushes (about 10 liters of water add 15 g of fertilizer), or you can simply buy a ready-made mixture in the store.

In addition, you can add ash under the roots of the rose and spill it with water on top - the ash contains exactly those components that the rose needs in the fall.

Pruning

The next thing to do when preparing roses for winter is pruning them.Pruning roses for the winter is one of the main components of caring for them; without this procedure, your roses will not only not bloom normally next year, but they will not overwinter either.

Be sure to prune your roses or your efforts will get you nowhere. Pruning makes roses more resistant to winter cold.

Of course, both the pruning of the rose and their winter shelter depend on the variety of your beauties. Therefore, we will consider the most popular pruning and covering methods that will suit all roses in one variation or another.

Around the middle of September, it is advisable to remove all the leaves from the roses, which are already beginning to fade slowly. This should be done so that the rose, firstly, does not evaporate moisture, and secondly, so that the leaves do not begin to rot in the winter shelter. In addition, there are often infections on the leaves that are not immediately visible, but will quickly spread in shelter.

When the temperature begins to fluctuate around zero, the roses can already be pruned. Tall bushes should be cut off by at least two-thirds, cutting off the shoots with a sharp pruner about 1 cm above the last bud.

The bud should be located on the inside of the shoot if you want to form a bush with vertical shoots, and on the outside if you want a lush, spreading bush. The cut itself should always look inside the bush.

Do not worry if you inadvertently cut the rose too short, there is nothing wrong with that. The main thing is to preserve the root system, and it will bloom on new shoots, which the bush will begin to grow in the spring.

Deep pruning, on the other hand, is useful in that it rejuvenates the old bush, which begins to actively release new shoots.

If you grow undersized varieties, then on your roses you just need to cut off dry inflorescences and slightly shorten the shoots, by 10-15 centimeters, this will be quite enough.

Sometimes in autumn, shoots with buds appear on park roses, which begin to bloom. You do not need to cut them, because the rose will begin to release new shoots - any early pruning leads just to the formation of new side branches. Cut these shoots later when it gets cool.

If new stems appear on the roses in the fall, you just need to pinch them slightly, preventing them from growing. Then lateral shoots will not appear on your rose, late buds will not form on them, and your rose will not weaken by winter.

Spraying

Be sure to spray your rose bushes with a pest repellent - roses are very prone to disease and attract a variety of food lovers - from slugs to spider mites.

And the old old ways like soapy water or tobacco often don't help. It is best to purchase iron sulfate or Bordeaux liquid in a store.

Do not spare the solution, carefully spill the stems and branches, and even the soil above the roots.

Hilling

After you have cut, fed and sprayed your beauty, you need to huddle it higher, at the same time loosening the ground under it. Air will flow to the roots, you will remove the weeds, and cover the grafting site from the cold weather.

In addition, peat, humus or dry (always dry!) ​​Foliage must be sprinkled on top. Do this only on a dry, windless day. Wet mulch on the roots of the roses will nullify your efforts.

Bending down shoots

If you did not cut your rose short, then the tall stems need to be bent down. This should be done carefully so as not to break them. Gradually bending the shoots, lay them on the ground and press in arcs. The roses are now ready for shelter.

Standard scheme for pruning grapes in the Moscow region

It is used for non-covering species, widespread in the southern regions. In the first autumn, the seedling is cut, leaving 2-3 eyes above the ground. Of these, in the spring, the strongest is chosen, which will become the stem itself, and the second will be the reserve one.

For the second autumn, the standard sprout is shortened by cutting it into two or three buds, and the same number of buds is left on the reserve one, forming a replacement knot. Young shoots during this period are completely broken out. The next year, the growing point is pinched at the stem and all stepson's shoots are removed.

The third year can be called significant in the life of the trunk - it is cut off at the required height and all lateral processes are removed, except for the two uppermost ones - they will become the shoulders of the cordon. The shoulders are also cut to two buds. The reserve branch is also cut off, choosing the two strongest shoots. On one of them, several buds (up to 6) are saved, and from the second, a replacement knot is again formed.

How to properly cover roses

After your roses are ready, you can proceed directly to the shelter. Roses can be covered in different ways, but the most common are three:

• dropping. After you have covered the roots and covered them with a layer of warming mulch, the upper ground part of the bush can be covered with spruce branches or covered with foliage. When snow falls on top, the rose will be securely closed. The main thing is to do this not too early so that the shelter does not get wet with rain. It must be dry. You can simply completely bury the flower, covering it with loose dry earth;
• dry shelter. Above the ground part of the bush, a plywood protection or pegs are installed on which the covering material is stretched. As a result, a kind of dome appears above the plant, which will then also be covered with snow;
• some growers simply wrap the stems of roses with fabric material that insulates the rose and prevents it from freezing. But this method is rarely used.

Take your time with cover. Spudded roses will easily endure frost of 8-10 degrees.

When grapes are opened

Grapes after winter

Another important event in the series of activities for the care of grapes is its opening in the spring. Here, too, all deadlines must be met. If the protection is removed too early, spring return frosts can damage the buds. For this, –3 C will be enough. Then the vine will have to grow replacement buds instead of dead buds. Not all grape varieties bear fruit on the shoots developing from these buds. Even if the crop matures, it will be much less than the usual volume.

It is not worth too delaying with the disclosure. Warm weather will play a cruel joke with covered grapes. Under protection, a greenhouse effect is created, expressed in increased temperature and humidity. This threatens with fungal diseases and various infections.

To find a middle ground and open the grapes in time, we monitor the thermometers. The average daily temperature is 10 C? Do not promise frost? Are buds swelling on shrubs and trees? It's time to get to work. In the Moscow region, this period usually falls on May.