Why pepper does not grow in height - what to do if seedlings grow poorly (110 photos)

It is wonderful when the planted petunia seeds sprout in vigorous sprouts after three days, then, after a month, they grow to quite worthy 5-6 cm, and after another month they bloom. Everything is quick and clear - everything is according to the plan previously indicated by the manufacturer. But in life there are often grievances. A well-hatched seedling suddenly slows down its growth or stops developing altogether. A week passes, the second, and the young sprouts of petunia seem to fall asleep. What to do? How to accelerate the growth of seedlings?

Late blight

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus of the genus Phytophthora infestans, which prefers to settle on nightshades. First, brown spots form on the leaves, followed by a light bloom from spores.

Late blight spreads very quickly: literally in 3-4 days the following leaves are affected. The whole plant is affected by the disease.

The following measures help in the fight against late blight:

early seed treatment with potassium permanganate;
spraying diseased bushes before flowering with drugs "Oxyhom", "Ordan", "Fitosporin-M" and other means;
processing of peppers with Bordeaux liquid.

Other reasons

The growth of peppers slows down and stops altogether due to acquired diseases or poor quality of seed. Improper watering may also be the reason: too cold water, regularly causing hypothermia of the roots, will "force" the seedlings to stop growing. It should be borne in mind that, unlike growing crops in open beds, in greenhouse conditions, watering is carried out only in the morning, after which frequent ventilation without drafts is organized during the day to prevent condensation on the foliage.

Unsuccessful seedlings, which are clearly weak in appearance, indicate a low quality of seed. Usually, at the germination stage, it is already possible to draw a conclusion about the strength of the seeds: even fresh seeds can hatch for too long.

Disease development

Young juicy leaves of young peppers are a delicacy for many pests, but it is easier to fight them than diseases, 80% of which are fungal diseases, the spores of which are carried by wind, precipitation and persist for a long time in a moist environment in soil and plant debris:

black leg - a thunderstorm of sprouts until 2-3 true leaves appear on them. After darkening of the root collar, the young pepper stops growing and breaks in place of the black constriction that has appeared;
gray rot is manifested by weeping brown spots, which subsequently become covered with a gray bloom;
late blight at the initial stage resembles the symptoms of a black leg. In the future, a silky bloom of maturing spores forms on the affected tissues;
Fusarium wilting causes vascular blockage of young plants. For no apparent reason, they stop growing, shed their foliage and wither.

The main rules for the prevention of fungal diseases are compliance with watering and temperature regimes, preventing thickening of plantings after transplanting pepper bushes, organizing proper ventilation of greenhouses.

Bacterial diseases are much less common and are manifested by lightning-fast bacterial wilting and black bacterial spot. Carriers are insects or animals.The main preventive measure is to increase the immunity of seedlings, feeding it with the necessary micro- and macroelements.

How to feed pepper seedlings if they grow poorly

For better growth, top dressing is applied after the formation of the first pair of true leaves. Prepare a mixture of 25 g of superphosphate, 15 g of urea and 10 g of potassium sulfate, diluted in 10 l of water.

After 2 weeks, feeding with Ammofoskaya (25 g / 10 l of water) is carried out. Mineral fertilizers alternate with the introduction of organic matter (dry cow dung, bird droppings 200 g / 10 l of water). The source of potassium is wood ash. Sprinkle it on the beds or make a solution for watering. If the pepper grows poorly, then top dressing is carried out with sodium or potassium humate.

In order not to burn the roots, the soil is shed with clean water before fertilizing.

For better development of the root system, the soil is watered with Kornevin, Zircon. If recent shoots are weak, foliar treatment with Epin growth stimulant gives good results.

The main condition for obtaining a decent harvest of pepper is growing healthy seedlings. There are many reasons for the lag in the growth and development of young seedlings. You need to carefully understand each reason and eliminate it in time. Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology will help to avoid many mistakes when growing a crop.

Control and prevention measures

Most of the problems with the development and growth of pepper seedlings arise from non-compliance with the agrotechnical technology of its cultivation - seed treatment before sowing, temperature conditions, accuracy when planting and transplanting to permanent beds, knowledge of how to water properly, and feed.

There are not so many rules for "handling" pepper seedlings, but they must be methodically adhered to. This is the cumulative experience of research by scientists and the experience of many practicing vegetable growers, suggesting what to do when problems arise and allowing you to get the highest possible yields.

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Testimonials

Ilya. It seems to me that most of the problems that arise when growing pepper seedlings are associated with poor seed quality and picking. I trust only trusted companies and grow peppers in separate pots or bags. I always take the soil from the planting and do not add anything to it, I just ignite it in the oven. Seedlings are always strong, harvests are pleasing.

Maria. When I just started growing pepper seedlings, I was confused about the timing, then I got used to it. For supplementary lighting I use phyto-lamps, as for me this is the best option. I can't say that pepper is especially capricious; every culture requires attention. Proper watering, warmth and care always pays off with the quality of the seedlings.

Blackleg

This viral disease usually affects the root portion of the stem. It changes color, begins to rot, the pepper does not grow in height, and the whole plant dies.

Carry out pre-sowing treatment of seeds and soil with potassium permanganate or other means.

check plants daily for signs of blackleg;
monitor the humidity and planting density;
remove diseased plants, and pour the rest under the root with the preparation "Fitosporin".

Tobacco mosaic

The disease is caused by a tobacco mosaic virus, which is widespread in plants. Peppers grown in greenhouses are often affected.

Signs of such a pathology is a peculiar color of the leaves, reminiscent of a mosaic pattern. Subsequently, the leaves die, the development of the plant slows down, and fruiting decreases.

Peppers infected with tobacco mosaic do not grow or heal, which is why all infected plants have to be removed and burned.

Control and prevention measures

Read next: Peking cabbage seedlings what they look like and when to plant

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Preventive measures will avoid problems with the productivity and growth rate of pepper:

Alternate feeding with organics and minerals.
Increase the amount of fertilizer applied gradually.
Do not give the plant an excess of nitrogenous compounds, as this will lead to the build-up of a large green mass to the detriment of fruiting.
Carry out any top dressing only on wet soil, therefore, two days before planting, you need to shed it properly.
Water for irrigation of open beds should be at room temperature. Watering is especially useful in the morning. Pour water under the root, being careful not to touch the shoots and foliage.
After top dressing, loosen the soil around each bush shallowly, if it is not mulched.
Sometimes stimulants are used for the comfortable existence of pepper. To make the fruits better set, add 2 g of superphosphate to each dressing.
For high-quality pollination of plants, run beneficial insects into the greenhouse. Lure them in with sweet solutions.
Remove mechanically damaged fruits from the garden to prevent massive infection with fungal diseases.
Treat the garden with insect repellent regularly. For treatment, use insecticidal spraying of the aerial part of the bushes.

Growing peppers is possible even for novice gardeners, you just have to follow the technique developed by professionals.

Important! The seeds of this garden crop germinate slowly initially, so it is important that the seed is of high quality. When purchasing seeds, check germination. If the material seems weak, no matter how hard you try, the pepper will probably never grow.

And then the question will not arise why the culture does not emerge or grows poorly, and you will be able to grow healthy, strong and stably fruiting bushes.

Care features

Seedlings grow rapidly. It is found immediately after planting or after the formation of the main stem of the bush. Culture develops poorly if it lacks free space. Lack of moisture and nutrients affects the condition of the stems, leaves and fruits. Creating conditions for seedlings is the primary task of the gardener.

Why tomato seedlings do not grow or grow poorly:

the temperature regime is not observed;
insufficient nutrition;
lack of nutrients and vitamins.

It is important that the right conditions are created in the greenhouse before planting tomatoes: first of all, before planting, the soil and all equipment are cleaned of harmful microorganisms.

Particular attention is paid to the temperature regime in the room, as soon as the first shoots appear, the boxes with the culture are removed to a cool place. During the day, the temperature should not drop to 10-14 ° C. The optimal temperature regime is 18 ° C during the day and 13 ° C at night, otherwise the seedlings will quickly dry out or begin to wither.

A bush develops well, which is sprayed with low-fat milk. This procedure will help to avoid fungal diseases in seedlings. A plant that is planted in uncleaned soil or in unfertilized soil (dry soil without minerals and vitamins) grows poorly. Whatever the reason for the poor growth of seedlings, it must be eliminated, otherwise it will not be possible to get a good harvest.

Phytoplasmosis (stolbur)

Signs of phytoplasmosis are yellowing and crushing of plant parts, curling and drying of leaves, tasteless fruits.

The disease is caused by microorganisms that are invisible to the eye and carried by insect pests. Feeding on the sap of infected plants, they carry the disease around. Symptoms in a diseased plant appear much later than the infection occurred.

There are no effective drugs that help in the treatment of stolbur. After signs of phytoplasmosis appear, do the following:

plants with signs of stolbur are destroyed;
carry out the processing of land and greenhouses;
destroy weeds, which are a kind of disease reserve;
take measures to combat pests.

Causes of problems with the growth of pepper

Common reasons for a slowdown in cultural development:

low air temperature and drafts;
infertile soil;
pick errors;
constant temperature drops;
deepening of seedlings during transplantation;
irregular watering;
root damage during transplantation;
irregular feeding;
inappropriate time to dive;
too dry air in the greenhouse;
poor lighting and short daylight hours.

The culture is dived into the ground by the transshipment method, the roots are also not deeply buried. Otherwise, the plants will spend their energy on growing adventitious roots on the lower part of the stem and green mass, and not on the fruits themselves. As a result, the yield will decrease.

If the plant is too deep, they wait for the advent of adventitious roots, and in the next season this mistake is not repeated.

This garden crop is often not fed. An excess of nutrients is just as harmful as a lack of them. An excess of superphosphate leads to increased growth of the root system, as a result of which the plant lags behind in development. To reduce the concentration of fertilizers, increase the frequency of watering.

Before planting in a permanent place, ready-made humus is introduced into the soil. After that, the peppers are fed several times per season:

two weeks after the pick - mullein infusion;
at the end of June, when the culture blooms - wood ash, diluted in water and infused for three days;
after three weeks - mineral fertilizers with potassium and calcium (will increase the resistance of plants to diseases);
at the fruiting stage, every 1.5 weeks - complex fertilizers.

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External factors

Environmental factors also affect plant growth retardation:

drought;
excess moisture;
lack of sunlight;
pests;
illness;
temperature drops;
drafts.

Especially often, a slowdown in development occurs due to a lack of moisture. After each watering, the soil is loosened and mulched. In the greenhouse, the bushes are moistened after 1-2 days, in the open field - after 3-6 days. In hot weather, the procedure is carried out every day, in the morning or in the evening.

Improper watering

If there are no problems with the soil, but the seedlings of the planted tomatoes still grow poorly, it is necessary to reconsider the care. If the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, the tomato lacks moisture or too much moisture. This leads to rotting of the root system of the future tomato bush.

Watering the seedlings is scheduled according to the schedule: no more than 2 times a week during the period of active growth of tomatoes. Before planting seedlings, the soil is abundantly watered and fertilized, the next watering does not occur earlier than a week later. A crop will not grow if excess moisture causes the roots to rot.

Solution to the problem

If it is not possible to determine the right amount of moisture for tomatoes, it is necessary to check the quality of the soil. If the earth is dry, water is added, if moisture is not absorbed, watering is stopped for a while.

Installing an irrigation system will help solve the problem. Drip or autonomous irrigation will save seedlings from excess or lack of moisture.

The moisture level varies depending on the place of planting: on the south side, moisture evaporates faster, and in the shade, irrigation water can stagnate at the root system. It is necessary to take into account the temperature regime of the environment and the level of moisture in the region where the crop is planted.

Withering (verticillosis)

Verticillosis is very common on peppers grown outdoors, which is why it grows poorly. The cause of the disease is a fungus that lives in the soil. It penetrates the roots, causing the leaves to turn brown.Even taking good care of an infected pepper bush can kill it.

There is another type of wilting - spotted, which is called bronze pepper. The leaves take on a bronze or deep purple color. As a result, the top of the plant dies, and the fruits get multi-colored spots.

Measures to combat verticillosis include:

at the initial stage, the infected plants are treated with fungicidal agents: Vitaros, Previkur and others;
severely affected bushes are destroyed;
to prevent the disease, seeds are disinfected with special preparations.

When should you start stimulating?

If young shoots are lethargic, weak and pale, they need help. In addition, the growth of young cabbage should be stimulated if the timing of moving to a greenhouse or open ground is tight, and the plant does not want to acquire a healthy, ready-to-transplant appearance.

Also, attention should be paid to seedlings after picking. It is during this period that it is especially important to provide optimal conditions for the growth of strong shoots.

Reasons for greenhouses and greenhouses

The growth of bushes slows down in the greenhouse due to drafts, too dry air or too much moisture. Therefore, the structures are ventilated after watering, and the beds are covered with transparent film in cold weather.

High humidity leads to the appearance of mold and rot, slugs.

A common reason for stopping the development of vegetables in the beds is sharp temperature changes, so gardeners install arcs, cover the plants with protective material or transparent film. It must be removed in hot or windy weather during the day and pulled over the night.

What to do

To combat the lack of moisture, after each watering, the aisles are loosened, mulch is added. For intensive growth at each growing stage, the culture is fed with organic and mineral fertilizers. In cold weather and in unfavorable climates, the bushes must be covered with a film.

At the first signs of diseases and pests, plants are treated with special preparations.

If the pepper is growing too slowly, analyze the cause of the trouble. As a result of the elimination of provoking factors, the problem will be solved by itself.

In the open field

Pepper is a thermophilic plant that grows poorly in open ground. If it grows in an open bed, then the planting must be protected from cold and direct sunlight - install arcs with any covering material over the sprouts.

Take your time planting seedlings on a permanent site. Let the plants grow strong and the earth to warm up. The soil temperature at the planting depth should be at least 10 ... 12 ° С. The most favorable time is from late May to early June.

Choose soft, loose and nutritious soil for planting, on which other nightshades have not previously grown.

It is important to exclude damage to the root system, so transplant the peppers to the site using the transshipment method, trying to preserve a clod of earth. Place the root collar close to the soil surface. The bed should be at a height.

In caring for peppers in an open area, organic fertilizers (compost, humus) are welcome. Add organic matter in small portions.

Important: Never use fresh manure. He is able to burn pepper bushes.

Chemistry in the garden should not be overused. Nitrogen is required during the active growing season. Top dressing with phosphorus and potassium content can be applied throughout the entire life of the culture: these substances have a positive effect on the development of rhizomes and accelerate the growth of fruits.

In the greenhouse

In the middle lane, it is advisable to grow the culture in a greenhouse. The greenhouse must be created in such a way that it is possible to ventilate it. In extreme heat, open the greenhouse doors. Provide sufficient temperature (23 ... 25 ° C). Protect bushes from direct sunlight and drafts.

Adhere to the main rule of watering - do not overfill, but also do not overdry the soil.

Read more: How to plant peppers correctly: tips, photos

Apply fertilizers in two stages: from the moment the second leaf is formed and before planting in the summer cottage.

Before planting, the seedlings must be hardened - expose the tender bushes to fresh air.

How to care for Crassula?

The optimal location for Crassula: southeast or southwest window. In winter, the plant needs additional lighting.

The fat woman has seasonal requirements that you need to know:

Provide the "money tree" with 3 months of rest. From late November to February.
Maintain a lower temperature, up to 14-16 degrees Celsius.
Water less often. Ideally, once a month.
Do not feed.

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Top rot

The leaves of the peppers, and sometimes the rest of the plants, are susceptible to the disease. Initially, whitish spots with dark edges appear on old leaves, which grow and lead to the death of the leaf.

When treating white rot, the following measures should be taken:

when the first signs appear, pepper is sprayed with preparations containing copper;
after two weeks, the plants are re-processed;
after harvesting, plant residues are removed and the soil is disinfected.

The disease appears on young fruits. This is expressed in the form of water areas, which then grow and become dark and wrinkled.

The cause of rot is a lack of calcium in the soil due to severe drought or excessive watering, an excess of fertilizers with nitrogen. Sharp temperature changes also affect.

The following protective measures will help prevent the disease:

regulation of temperature and humidity in greenhouses;
uniform watering;
spraying with calcium nitrate will accelerate the recovery of plants.

Aphid

Small black dots stuck to young shoots can destroy the plant in a few days. Aphids suck out cell sap, in addition releasing dangerous substances and viruses into the plant. This leads to stunted growth, a change in the appearance of the green space and the development of diseases.

You should not expect such complex consequences, the treatment for aphids is carried out immediately when the first insects appear. Some people prefer home methods: spraying pepper with infusions of nettle, garlic, onion, chamomile, washing the plants with soapy solutions, hilling with tobacco smoke.

Others resort to drastic measures: they use various insecticides, the choice of them in specialized stores today is quite large: Intavir, Iskra and others.

Spider mite

Having found the thinnest cobweb on the leaves and shoots of pepper, there is no doubt: spider mites have settled on the plants. These microscopic arthropods reproduce and move quickly, in addition carrying various viruses with them. The leaves of the plant lose their color and collapse, and the flowers dry up without producing fruit.

Insect pests

They cause great harm to garden crops and insect pests. If you do not pay attention to this problem in time, then the peppers will grow poorly, and at best you can get a modest harvest, and at worst you will not wait at all.

Among the pests that prefer to settle on pepper, aphids, spider mites, slugs, Colorado beetles and others are often found.

Naked slugs

This enemy of peppers, invisible during the day, gnaws round ugly holes in the center or edges of the leaves. Insects are voracious in nature, like high humidity and thickened plantings.

Preventing the appearance of pests, do not overfill the plants with water. And when signs of the presence of slugs appear, the grooves between the beds are filled with tobacco dust, ash. You can sprinkle with ground pepper.

Leads to the death of insects and quicklime, sprinkled on the beds immediately after rain or watering. Among chemical agents, Ferramol, Groza, Metaldehyde and others received good reviews.