When it is better to plant trees, in spring or autumn, no gardener will definitely answer the question. Because there are a lot of components that determine whether tree planting will be successful or not. This is the weather conditions, which are different in different years, the characteristics of the seedlings, the composition of the soil, the location of the site. To decide which tree planting, autumn or spring, is right for you, it is worth weighing the pros and cons of both.
Since today it is autumn outside the windows, we will start with it.
Why is it better to plant in spring
Planting seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs in the spring allows you to avoid freezing, but this is associated with a certain risk. All work must be completed before the start of the growing season, while the plant is dormant. In addition, seedlings planted in spring, as a rule, suffer from heat, lack of moisture and pests, so they need increased care.
The positive aspect of spring planting is that at this time you can plant any crops, even the most thermophilic ones. During spring, summer and autumn, the root system of the seedlings has time to develop well and prepare for winter conditions. Therefore, the risk of losing seedlings in the first winter is much less.
Spring planting, in addition to time constraints, has another significant drawback. At this time, it is quite difficult to find quality planting material. In the fall, this is much easier to do, and usually there are no problems with the availability of seedlings.
Recommendations for gardeners
- In order not to miss the spring planting dates, all preparatory work should be carried out in the fall.
- When choosing a landing site, consider the water table. It shouldn't be too high. It is also not recommended to plant trees in places where melt water accumulates.
- Be sure to pay attention to soil fertility. Apply fertilizer if the soil in the area where you plan to plant the tree is poor.
- Tall seedlings must be planted together with the support. It will protect fragile stems from gusty spring winds.
And most importantly, you need to remember: a tree is a living being and requires an appropriate attitude towards itself. Young seedlings, like little children, need constant attention and care, getting what they need, they will certainly delight you with a good harvest.
In conditions
for autumn planting, it is best to choose zoned, and if necessary, winter-hardy varieties that are acclimatized and quickly take root. So, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple, mountain ash, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in autumn quite well.
For gardeners in the southern regions, it is better to plant trees in the fall. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with occasional rains, which is "the very thing" for seedlings. But spring here too quickly can be replaced by hot summer.
Saplings that were dug out ahead of time (before natural leaf fall) most often have unripe shoots and almost always freeze slightly.
In the south, autumn planting of trees and shrubs is preferable.
The main thing is to remember: nature will substitute its hands for any of its offspring, and we must try to hand over healthy ripe seedlings with a good root system to it in the most favorable time frame.Then there will be no need for a young tree to sit on "sick leave" for years, and to receive "disability" by the age of majority.
Tags: spring, tree, plant, right
About
«Previous post
When to plant fruit tree seedlings
Autumn is the time when most of the fruit trees are planted. It is this period that many agricultural specialists recommend. However, these recommendations apply only to the southern regions of the country. In these regions, autumn is quite long and warm, and there are no severe frosts in winter. Under such conditions, the root system of trees planted in autumn manages to acclimatize in a new place before the onset of cold weather, and in spring the plants quickly and amicably enter the growing season.
In more northern regions, an autumn planting can lead to the death of seedlings only because they simply do not have time to settle down in a new place before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, fruit trees in areas with a cold climate are more often planted in spring. This allows you to avoid severe frosts, and the trees will get a longer period for adaptation in a new place.
Spring planting has its own characteristics. The time when you can plant seedlings of fruit trees is very limited. As a rule, this is 1-2 weeks after the soil has thawed, but the buds on the trees have not yet begun to swell. The seedling should enter the growing season in a new place. If this happens earlier, then it will not take root at all, or it will be ill for a long time.
Planting cherries
Cherry seedlings are planted in spring only when the air temperature during the day stops steadily falling below + 5 ° C. In this case, the seedling should not have swollen buds or other signs of the beginning of the growing season. Planting too early in spring can lead to freezing of the plant in case of return of frosts, and delay will increase the duration of the growing season.
The advantage of spring planting of sweet cherries is that the plant has enough time for the development of the root system, will take root well and prepare for winter. At this time, the gardener has the opportunity to observe the process and respond promptly in case of any problems.
Cherry planting
You can plant cherries in the open ground in spring immediately after the night and daytime air temperature rises above 0 ° C. In most regions, such weather is already established in April. Planting cherries in the spring has many advantages, but it has one significant drawback. In the spring, the plant will spend energy not only on the growth and strengthening of its underground part, but also on the growth of green mass, as well as the formation of shoots. Therefore, he will need more nutrients at this time, and care for him should be more careful.
Plum tree
The optimal time for planting plum seedlings is the last decade of April. At this time, the plants have the maximum survival rate. For spring planting, it is necessary to choose only high-quality planting material. The seedling should not have external defects, and its root system should be branched and consist of several roots at least 25 cm long.
Planting an apple tree
Apple tree seedlings can be planted when the ambient temperature is above 0 ° C. At the same time, the seedling should not show signs of vegetation. In different regions, the planting time may be different, so it is best to focus on the condition of the soil. It is not worth waiting for it to completely thaw out, it will be enough for the shovel to freely enter the ground.
Delay threatens that the spring moisture supply will leave the soil. Therefore, the planted tree will take root for a long time in a new place and will require constant artificial soil moisture.
Planting pears
Like most seedlings of other fruit trees, a pear can be planted in the spring in open ground, when the ambient temperature does not drop below + 5 ° C. In this case, the seedling should be at rest. In the northern regions, such a temperature regime is established in the second half of April, and sometimes in early May. Once planted, the seedling will have ample time to root, grow new shoots and prepare for winter.
Apricot tree
Contrary to popular belief, apricot is not a purely southern crop for a long time. Modern varieties, bred specifically for climatic zones with unfavorable weather conditions, grow well even in far from ideal conditions in central Russia. In such areas, spring planting is used. The main condition for its implementation is the absence of signs of the beginning of the growing season in the seedling. The soil at the site of the planned planting should completely thaw, and the air temperature, even at night, should not fall below 0 ° C.
Laying a new garden
Let's say you are going to plant a new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a plan (scheme) for planting, you know which plants, where to plant, how to arrange them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: "When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?"
There are some differences in planting hardwood and softwood. In addition, the planting time also depends on which seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.
Planting hardwood
For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with an earthen clod, there is no strict time frame for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care in the first time after landing.
However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system is late May - early June, when root growth is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because in this case, root damage is practically excluded.
Plants with an open root system can be planted while they are at a relatively dormant stage, i.e. the kidneys have not yet swollen and have not started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have thrown off the foliage and nature begins to fall asleep.
It is advisable to plant seedlings with bare roots immediately after purchase. If it is necessary to postpone this event for a while, then you can temporarily bury them in some shaded place: lay them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.
Planting conifers
Conifers and evergreens tolerate transplanting worse than deciduous trees. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at an earlier date, a little earlier than deciduous ones.
Conifers and shrubs should only be replanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to buy coniferous seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen coma.
In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, rather than transplanted into them shortly before selling.
If coniferous seedlings are grown outdoors, then they are transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which subsequently, after planting the plants in a permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided for many kilometers from the excavation site.
It is possible to reduce the risk by directly transplanting conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest possible time. The most optimal time for digging coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the beginning of the growing season, i.e.in early spring. And the sooner you plant them in a permanent place, the more likely the plants will successfully take root.
How to plant fruit trees in spring
The spring planting of fruit trees is no different from the autumn planting. Planting of seedlings is carried out pointwise or in groups. This must be done at proper intervals so that neighboring trees do not compete with each other. And you should also take into account the composition of the soil, the level of groundwater, the proximity of buildings, structures, structures.
Site selection
For planting fruit trees, they usually choose well-lit areas, protected from the cold wind. They are often planted on the south side of houses or fences. For large gardens, it is advisable to use the southern slopes of the hills. Fruit trees do not tolerate stagnant water in the roots, so they are not planted in swampy or flooded lands, as well as in areas where groundwater comes close to the surface.
Planting pit preparation
The size of the planting pit is determined by the size of the root system of the seedling. Usually, a depth of 0.6–0.8 m and a diameter of 0.5 m are sufficient. Preparation of planting holes for spring planting of fruit trees is carried out in the fall. This allows you to saturate the soil inside the pit with air. The soil taken out of the pit is mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio with humus, adding the following fertilizers there as well:
- urea - 1 tbsp. l .;
- superphosphate - 1 tbsp. l .;
- wood ash - 1 tbsp.
Disembarkation rules
Top dressing with ash
Mineral-organic mixtures or chemical additives are introduced under the planting material, but organic is then not added. When using organics, nitrogen agrochemicals are not used.
For seed types, several types of fertilizers are applied to a hole with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 60 cm, which differ in composition:
1 Over-matured compost - 4 buckets (10 l each) / simple superphosphate - 400 g (double - 200 g) / potassium sulfate - 200 g
or
2 Humus - 3 buckets / bone meal - 1 kg / simple superphosphate - 200 g / potassium sulfate - 200 g
Potassium sulfate in the cold season, if desired, is replaced by potassium chloride. Instead of chemistry for environmentally friendly cultivation, ash is used in the proportions: 1 hole / 1 liter of ash.
Under the stone fruit types, fertilizing is introduced into a hole up to 80 cm in diameter and 40 cm deep, reduced in volume by 2 times.
Cherry planting
The process of planting a seedling with a bare rhizome:
1The bottom of the pit is filled with a nutrient mixture, which is prepared from half the amount of the fertilizer mixture and part of the soil from the upper layer. The mixture forms a mound in the form of a cone
2 Planting material is placed on the mound. Its roots are evenly spaced in a circle
3The second half of the dressing is poured onto the roots. The seedling is shaken gently to prevent possible empty space between the roots.
4 Water is poured at the rate of: 1 hole / 2-4 buckets (depending on the age of the tree)
5 The rest of the soil from the upper layer is poured into the depression to the level of the root collar. The root fossa is formed from the lower layer along the edges of the trunk circle
6 The tree is watered, with a stream directed to the root fossa
7 With the help of foliage, straw, cut grass, the trunk circle is mulched. Chips and sawdust are used as a mulch coating on alkaline soils
If you deepen the root collar, then the tree will not begin to bear fruit soon. The best option would be not to close the neck, but to correct the defect by simply adding fertile soil.
Seedlings with bare rhizomes
The process of planting a plant with a hidden root system is simpler than the previous option:
1Initially, half of the feeding mixture is also mixed with ½ part of the fertile soil layer. All this fits into the bottom of the prepared recess.
2 A plant is placed in the hole along with a lump of soil, in which the root system has already been formed
3Around the edges, the remaining top dressing is distributed, it is well watered
4 The hole is filled with soil left over from the top fertile layer
5 Everything is watered again
6 The trunk circle is covered with mulch
back to menu ↑
About the rules and timing of planting fruit trees
In order for the orchard to develop well, its laying is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:
- first determine the optimal place for each seedling;
- carry out pre-planting site preparation;
- mark places for each tree;
- digging holes and planting plants in them;
- watered and pruned.
When choosing a landing site, you should take into account the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will shade someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.
It will also be inconvenient to prune and harvest such trees. In addition, there is additional (laborious) work to collect fallen leaves. If you do not remove it from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.
Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear). They will not interfere with each other's development.
Pleasant neighborhood
When choosing crops for your garden, stone and pome species are placed separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as the garden plot allows). This will facilitate the fight against fruit tree diseases and pests.
When choosing a neighborhood, take into account the compatibility of plants:
- the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currants, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
- it is better to plant a pear with others like you and apple trees, trying to avoid being close to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress the culture in the same way as the plum;
- Cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.
On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the most comfortable is the north side of the site. Although in this case it is also worth considering the region.
So, in the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, most often the western and north-western shreds of the site are allocated for the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively north - this way you can protect trees from overheating.
In the northern zone, of course, the most suitable place is the southern corner of the dacha. Not a single specialist allocates an eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.
Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. Do not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in the spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of slipping ice.
Transplanting trees
You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another area. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.
To plant a mature tree in a new place, it is prepared for the "move" in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.
In the process, roots are exposed, which are cut off from the general system. The sections are treated with a clay-earthen mash, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.
The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus and watered abundantly. From this moment until the excavation, many fibrous processes are formed on the roots around the trunk.With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.
During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use a leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.
Transplanting a fruit tree
It is best to replant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not suitable for all cultivated plants. To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them on a younger tree. There are 3 main ways of grafting: budding, grafting, ablating, allowing you to maintain (or improve) the variety.
Timing
Each summer resident determines the time of disembarkation for himself. For some, April - the first decade of May is suitable, others are more satisfied with October. Recently, there have been such enthusiasts that they plant fruit trees in the summer.
Note! Horticultural laws recommend planting stone fruit in spring and pome fruit in autumn.
But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be adhered to so strictly. The main thing in planting garden trees is to comply with the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the layout of crops.
Site planning
When laying a personal plot, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the placement of buildings, plantings and fences;
- the place of supply of irrigation water and distribution over the site should be taken into account;
- buildings must be planned so that they do not impede watering (they occupy hillocks and rocky areas)
- tall buildings and tall trees should be placed in the northern part of the homestead so that they less shade the site.
The best for setting up a garden are flat areas or gentle southern (southwestern) slopes, warm and well-lit. Wetlands, depressions, foundation pits are unsuitable for the garden. When choosing a site for a garden, its protection is important, especially from the side of the prevailing winds. A forest, rocks, buildings, etc. can serve as protection.
When to plant: in spring or autumn
Novice summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the optimal time for gardening, first of all, you should take into account the climatic region:
- in the southern regions (Krasnodar, Stavropol Territories), spring passes quickly, and May is hot; if trees are planted this season, then they will root badly, hurt for a long time, will lag behind in development and will start to reproduce later than those that are planted in the fall;
- for northerners, the optimal period is spring, closer to mid-May, when the soil warms up and the air temperature becomes comfortable for planting; autumn is not acceptable here, since winter can come early and unexpectedly, destroying the seedlings;
- the middle band is average, which has absorbed the features of the border regions; here, landings are carried out in spring and autumn, based on weather conditions that do not occur year after year.
Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look at the Lunar calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "junior gardening". The astrological document indicates the best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.
You should not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon actively influences all biological processes taking place on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.
Type of garden plant and climate features
In the Middle Lane, it is better to plant all stone fruit crops in the spring because of the high risk of seedlings freezing in winter. The rest of the garden plants in temperate latitudes should be planted in the fall. In the south, it is recommended to lay a garden exclusively in the fall, because in these regions the heat turns on already in March and the rains stop.
The specific timing of this work is determined in each case individually, based on the fact that the seedling after planting for rooting needs about a month. During this period, it requires a moderate temperature and constant soil moisture. Therefore, it is so important that at this time the seedling does not fall under severe frosts (below -15 ... 20 degrees) in the fall, and also does not "sunbathe" in the thirty-degree heat in spring.
If you are late with planting, then the purchased seedlings are better to dig in or store in the cellar. You can read how this is done in.
Planting fruit trees in summer
Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator's stereotypes. They also practice the planting of garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time, this can be done without detriment to the trees.
Previously, the argument against the summer period was hot weather, which prevented normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at low temperatures in well-moistened soil.
Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are well protected and do not dry out.
If an automated standardized irrigation system is laid on the site, then summer is even preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose the days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.
The temperature of the soil is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, planting work in summer should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock), or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and allow the plant to adapt better.
Seasoned gardeners highlight the following benefits of summer tree planting:
- you can choose a suitable planting material without haste - in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
- during the growing season, it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
- seedlings of summer planting have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.
Important! In order for young trees to endure the winter frosts, all the ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed during summer planting. Otherwise, they will take excess juices from the seedling on themselves and weaken it.
How to arrange the beds
All garden plants, without exception, are demanding on sunlight. All of them turn out to be larger and tastier in a sunny place than when shaded. For many of them starch is the main "constructive" material, and starch, as everyone knows very well from school, is formed in the process of photosynthesis in the light of the sun.
Yields in a sunny place are consistently three times higher than somewhere in a pen in partial shade. For a vegetable garden, the sun is a decisive factor, therefore, if there is a choice, whether to place the garden at the bottom of the site and at the same time in the sun, or above, but in the shade, you should choose the first option. You just have to build higher beds in the lowlands.
To the content
Conditions for planting seedlings
The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:
- the pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting the seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
- the size of the cut is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
- the walls are formed vertically, and the bottom is loosened onto a shovel bayonet;
- when forming a pit, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
- before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a talker (clay solution with the addition of earth);
- in the center of the pit, it is advisable to drive in a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
- when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
- the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
- then the seedling is shaken and the soil is lightly crushed; this is repeated until the pit is filled with earth;
- in case of subsidence, the condition is met - the root collar should rise above the ground by 3-4 centimeters;
- tying the tree to the stake with a soft cloth, make several holes along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is abundantly watered.
Note! If there is a close occurrence of groundwater on the site, then a layer of fertilized soil is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.
At this point, the spring and summer planting can be considered complete. In autumn work, the final stage is mulching the trunk circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.
Soil acidity
The mechanical and chemical composition of the soil plays an important role in setting up a garden. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable breeding ground and comfortable conditions.
The most important parameter for the farmer is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.
The reaction of the soil is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land is with a neutral pH of 6-7. But weakly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.
Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). High alkaline levels are more common in hot dry areas.
If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:
- for a neutral reaction, typical garden thistle, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile;
- the increased acidity is indicated by whitebear, highlander, starlet, mullein, pickle, plantain, horsetail, sorrel.
Ameliorants will help improve the property of the earth. The acidity can be lowered by adding lime, and increased with gypsum.
Planting in clay soil
Some horticultural crops give preference to sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, and still others are not particularly demanding on this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clayey and depleted sandy soils. Sandy loam and loam are optimal for them.
The peculiarities of tree planting and the frequency of watering depend on the mechanical composition. The most difficult thing is for agrarians with clay soil. It is difficult for plant roots to breathe in such soil. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.
Dandelions, bluegrass, cinquefoil goose, creeping buttercup are indicators of heavy texture. Having found such a "community" of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.
Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost homogeneous composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. Making this soil structural will allow the introduction of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.
On a note! To bring the soil composition closer to the loam will help the introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into the pit for planting fruit trees.
A novice summer resident, in order to grow a gorgeous garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:
- digging a clay area before planting seedlings is carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
- the depth of the hole under the tree is made less than in fertile soil;
- in this case, a clay mash for the roots is not used;
- it is better to cover a seedling dropped into a hole with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
- after planting a tree, the ground is not crushed too much so that it does not become compacted.
Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. It is important to choose the right place, taking into account the composition of the soil, determining the optimal time and observing the features of planting. This is the only way to get a good harvest.
Tree care after planting
In the first two years of life, young trees require a lot of attention. Moderate regular watering and feeding, loosening and weed control are important. In dry times, the soil must be thoroughly loosened after each watering or occasional rain.
Trunks mulching cannot be ignored. Rotting mulch (cut grass of cereals) performs several useful functions at once:
- provides good aeration of the root system;
- protects the ground from drying out;
- does not allow weeds to germinate;
- protects against soil freezing in winter;
- provides seedlings with organic nutrients;
- prevents the appearance of a soil crust.
Excessively moist soils do not mulch.
After planting, the trees are mulched
For the winter, trees are insulated by tying the trunk with burlap or coniferous branches.
The first pruning of young trees is carried out in the second year of life.
How to plant trees correctly. When to plant trees in spring
Galina Kizima is an enthusiastic gardener with 50 years of experience, the author of original techniques
If you are planning to plant fruit trees this spring, it’s time to buy some seedlings from the nursery and start planting trees. How to do it correctly - why it is not necessary to dig deep holes for planting trees, trample the ground near the roots and then dig it up every year, says Galina Kizima.
What age trees and shrubs can be planted in spring
In the spring, young plants are usually planted and transplanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling is, the faster it takes root.
If you intend to plant adult trees up to 2 m in height on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing species, which are 12-20 years old, are most easily transplanted.
Fast growing species can be replanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees up to 8-16 years, depending on the species. For shrubs, the age limit for transplanting also depends on the specific species.
As for large animals from 2 m and above, the best time to transplant them is frosty winter days. In winter, the ground is frozen and the earthen lump of a tree does not crumble during excavation, which makes it possible to transplant a large size without significant damage to the root system.
Planting trees: how to prepare a place
A year before planting a fruit tree, choose a place where you will plant a tree, and start to put a compost heap right on the virgin soil in spring on an area with a diameter of at least a meter and a height of up to 60-70 cm. To cover up an unsightly view, plant seedlings at the very base around the heap tall (erect) marigolds. This is the best. But you can also plant seeds of an ornamental or real sunflower, or corn seedlings, or sow the seeds of annual dahlias "Merry Guys".
Just leave the bunch together with the surrounding plantings to their fate in the fall. Fertilizers do not need to be applied, watering too. The frost will break the stems of the scenery, and they will fall on the soil around the heap. Let them lie there. By next spring, the pile will settle down to the required 25-30 cm, and carefully lay out everything that is lying around it around the pile.
Distance between cherry seedlings when planting
The best planting material for arranging a cherry orchard, both in the southern part of Russia and in the middle lane, are annual seedlings with a well-developed crown. However, in the northern regions, it is preferable to plant biennial seedlings.
Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to check the depth of the location of the groundwater. They should be at a distance of about 2 m from the ground. Seedlings are prepared for planting as follows: after taking them out of the winter digging hole, they are carefully examined, damaged roots are cut off, as well as unnecessary branching of the crown.
Planting is carried out early, since the dug-in seedlings can quickly begin and begin to grow. If you are late with planting, the seedlings may not take root (even with satisfactory care for them).
Plowing the soil with the laying of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as lime, if necessary, is carried out a maximum of 1.5-2 years before the trees are planted, and no later than September of the previous year.
If the soils have an average fertility rate, manure, compost or humus are used as fertilizers, which are usually applied at 5-6 kg per 1 m2. In the event that the soil is depleted, the rate of such fertilizers is 8-9 kg per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers are applied in an amount 2 times less than organic fertilizers.
The distance between cherry seedlings depends on the variety. Trees with a wide crown, such cherry varieties as "Yubileinaya", "Vladimirskaya" and "Shubinka", are planted at a distance of 3.5 m from each other. The distance when planting semi-dwarf cherries is an average of 2.5 m.
When planting cherries, you can adhere to a scheme that assumes a compacted arrangement of trees. This usually does not affect the taste of the fruit in any way.
We planted a tree: what's next?
Immediately after planting, it is imperative to shorten all branches and the central conductor by about a quarter of their length (this, of course, can be done before planting). The fact is that a plant develops correctly when there is a balance between its root system and the aboveground part.
When planting a seedling, its root system is disturbed, the root sucking hairs are torn off, and the seedling does not supply moisture to the top. At the same time, the leaves evaporate moisture as if nothing had happened, so the trunk dehydrates.
Sometimes, after planting, the following picture is observed: a bush or tree was planted, the plant dissolved its leaves and suddenly for no apparent reason dried up, despite abundant watering. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to shorten the aerial part of the plant when planting, that is, to shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the aerial part that is too large for it will be restored, and the seedling will take root well.
Throughout the summer, you will put food waste and weeded out weeds on the roots of the seedling and lightly sprinkle them with soil (or sand, peat).
Pros and cons of autumn planting
As soon as the autumn chores in the beds are completed, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear in the hands of summer residents going to their plots. A short, but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and those who are convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice are not mistaken at all.
Pros and cons of autumn planting
Benefits of autumn planting
- It is more profitable
It is much more profitable to buy seedlings in the fall: both nurseries and private gardeners start selling the newly dug planting material. Hence, there is a large selection, affordable price and the ability to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold with both last leaves and fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits inherent in this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.
- It is easier
Autumn planting will bring a little trouble: you can limit yourself to one watering, and nature itself will finish the rest. Autumn coolness and rains will provide the seedling with the necessary soil moisture and comfort. The fact is that, despite the onset of a dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools down to a temperature of + 4 ° C. Plants planted in time for the onset of stable frosts will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots and in the new season they will start to grow as much as two, or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring.
Benefits of autumn planting
- This saves time
Purely "human factor": the autumn planting of trees will free the summer resident strength and time for other gardening chores, which in the spring will be "over his head."
Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are warm. The earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not threatened with hypothermia and freezing.
Cons of autumn planting
- strong frosts able to destroy fragile trees;
- winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong wind, ice, snowfall and other weather troubles can break young plants;
- in late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged by rodents;
- well, during the absence of the owners, the seedlings in the country just can steal other fruit tree lovers.
In winter, weather troubles can break young plants.
Fruit tree seedlings: clay talker or "Kornevin"?
There are many myths and misconceptions associated with planting fruit trees. Let's take a look at those that have taken root especially in popular books for gardeners.
All authors recommend dipping the roots of the seedling in a clay mash before planting fruit trees. The question is, why? The roots supposedly take root better. Is it so? As is well known, clay does not allow moisture to pass through, so the roots do not dry out, but they cannot take water from the soil either. What's so good about that? And in general, where did this recommendation come from?
And here's where. In the old days, seedlings of fruit trees from the nursery were carried far and long on horses. Therefore, so that the roots do not dry out on the way, they were dipped in a clay mash, wrapped in a damp canvas and wrapped in sackcloth, tied with a rope and carried for a long time. But when the seedlings were brought to the place, they were necessarily put in the water for 2-3 hours before planting, so that the clay was washed off the roots, and they were saturated with moisture.
Someone copied the first part from old books, but forgot to write about the second, and this clay chatter went to wander from book to book.
So no talk, but just the opposite: put the seedling in water for 2 hours before planting and plant immediately after that. And even better, if you add any root former to the water, for example, "Kornevin". If Kornevin is not there, it doesn't matter. Ordinary honey is an excellent rooting agent (for a seedling, one tablespoon is enough for a bucket of water, and for a cutting - one teaspoon per glass).
And never keep seedlings in water for a long time, they will lose a significant part of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival rate and further growth.
Quality and availability of planting material
If possible, then give preference to seedlings with a closed root system.
From the point of view of the breadth of choice, it is more profitable to buy seedlings in the fall. In the spring, nurseries usually sell off the remnants of what they did not manage to realize in the autumn months. When buying, pay attention to the following points:
- Give preference to a seedling with a closed root system (in pots, with a large lump of earth), since it will take root better and can be planted for permanent residence at almost any time.
- For a seedling with open roots, be sure to check for a trace of grafting on the root collar. If it is not there, then most likely they are trying to slip the wild on you. In this case, the wound from the rootstock should already be overgrown.
- The thicker the “beard” around the main root, the better.A fibrous root system is a guarantee of good survival of a young plant. Now some nurseries dig out seedlings for sale using a plow, which leads to severe damage to the roots of plants (up to 90% of their total mass is cut off). Therefore, it is so important to conduct a thorough examination of the roots of the seedling before purchasing.
- Carefully inspect the trunk of a tree or bush in its lower part: it should have live buds and there should be no cracks or wounds.
Remember: the less time has passed between digging a seedling with an open root system in the nursery and planting it in a permanent place, the higher the likelihood that it will take root in your area. In this regard, it can be concluded that the autumn planting of seedlings is still more reliable than the spring planting, when horticultural firms mainly sell illiquid assets.
Planting seedlings: why trample the ground?
There is also a very common misconception. After planting, it is recommended to trample the soil around the seedling. This is explained by the fact that the soil must fill the voids under the roots and adhere to the roots from all sides. Moreover, it is recommended to start trampling from the periphery, gradually approaching the trunk, so as not to break off the roots.
Wherever you start to trample, you will still break off if you have weights under 80 kg. The moist soil compacted by trampling does not allow air to pass through well, and the roots will experience oxygen starvation, and no trampling will fill the voids under the roots.
In order for the soil to fill the voids and it sticks to the roots from all sides, it is not necessary to trample at all, but gradually pour the soil on top of the roots and immediately pour water from the watering can, add it again, and water it again. Here the water will wash the soil into the voids, and stick with moist soil all the roots, moreover, it will leave free air access to the roots.
Fruit tree seedlings: don't plant deep!
A big mistake is planting a seedling deep. This usually leads to a delay in the timing of the tree's entry into fruiting. In addition, deep planting promotes abundant root growth, especially for plums and cherries.
Trees generally have to stand on their roots. The thick roots extending from the trunk are a conductive plumbing system, so to speak. These roots do not suck in anything, but only carry the nutritious juices up and down. They are not afraid of frost and have the same frost resistance as the wood itself.
But the delicate suction part of the root system, young thin roots, can freeze slightly. They are usually located around the perimeter of the tree crown. That's what you need to take good care of. Feed, water, cover for the winter if you have snowless or too harsh winters.
In the northern regions, tree roots spread quite far beyond the crown perimeter. For what kind of self-respecting tree will climb into groundwater, dense illuvial layers or sand and clay?
Since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to creep in breadth in a small arable layer of soil, they are vulnerable to large sudden frosts after a thaw. Therefore, I recommend not to rake the leaves in the fall, but rather throw them around the trees. And so that they are not blown away by the wind, sprinkle on top with a little sand, peat or any soil. Do not be afraid of pests and pathogens hibernating on the leaves, there are no more and no less of them than during spring and autumn digging of near-trunk circles.
Location
Rational use of the territory
Often, gardeners are very concerned about the quality of the soil and do not think over the plan according to which the trees will be planted. By doing this, they are making a big mistake, because soil type can be adjusted when planting holes are formed.
And here how the landings will be lit and how well ventilated is of great importance.
For trees to eat well and get plenty of moisture, they should not be planted close to each other.
Shading plantings with the crown of an adult planting increases the risk of developing various infections (fungi, viruses) on the site, complicates the pollination stage during flowering. All this will affect the volume of the harvest and the size of the fruit.
If you follow the planting plan, this will make it easier in the future to care for the trees, prune them, spray them. Before forming the planting holes, a diagram should be drawn on paper with the calculation of the density of future plantings.
When planting crops in a single copy, special attention is paid to their remoteness from any garden structures and equipped paths.
Planting seedlings
The interval of planting fruit seedlings between themselves and from outbuildings:
| Vigorous varieties | minimum 5-6 m |
| Medium-sized varieties | 4 m |
| Low-growing trees (columnar, dwarf) | 2-3 m |
To rationally use the territory, berry crops (strawberries, currants) are placed between fruit trees.
Illumination by the sun's rays of the garden, on which the plantings will settle down, must be at least half of the daytime... During the first years, young seedlings are afraid of drafts, and their roots need to be free from moisture.
Crops that bear fruit consume a lot of moisture. It is advisable to locate them in places where the degree of occurrence of groundwater is high.
back to menu ↑
Tree-trunk circles: do not dig!
The recommended digging of near-trunk circles, and even twice a year, is also, by the way, a delusion. Never dig the soil in the near-trunk circles, neither in the spring nor in the fall! Do not keep her under steam, that is, naked. The soil must be covered, otherwise it collapses.
The easiest way is to make the grass borer escaping (low grass with roots lying only at a depth of 2-3 cm, and therefore does not interfere with other plants, rapidly growing due to rooting shoots, giving such a dense turf that you can play football). But it must be mowed as soon as it grows 10 cm in height, until late autumn, otherwise everything will sow around. This is the most convenient lawn grass, and it is not for nothing that golf courses are planted with it.
When the deadlines are over
If the desired seedling is caught at the end of the desired planting dates, there is a lingering slush or frost has begun, the tree can be saved until spring.
Storage methods for seedlings:
- basement;
- dropping;
- storage in the snow.
If there is a cellar where the temperature is stable within 0-10 degrees, then the seedling can be placed in a bucket with moistened sawdust or peat, and stored in the basement. From time to time, the sawdust must be moistened (once every 7-10 days).
If there is no basement, and the weather promises heavy snowfalls, the plant is packed and stored in a snowdrift.
