After what crops can you plant garlic and onions before winter

The best varieties of winter garlic

One of the main factors in obtaining a good harvest is choosing the right vegetable variety suitable for a specific climatic zone. A list of the most popular, time-tested varieties will help you choose the best garlic for winter.
The variety is universal, has an average ripening period (85-120 days from the beginning of germination to the time of digging out the bulbs). Its yield is up to 1.25 kg / sq. m, and the weight of the bulbs is up to 45 g. The number of cloves is up to 8 pcs. The shape of the bulbs is rounded, slightly elongated to the neck, lilac color with shading of a darker shade. The variety is almost not affected by pests and diseases, medium keeping quality. The pulp is juicy and spicy.

Lyubasha

Plant height is 100-120 cm. It has a high yield (3.5 kg / sq. M) due to the size of the ripe head - 100-120 g, occasionally - up to 300 g in weight. The bulb is white, with a small amount of purple veins, round-flat in shape, with up to 7 cloves. Keeping quality of the variety without loss of qualities - up to 10 months.

Healer

Early ripe non-shooting winter garlic. The growing season from spring germination to harvest is 100-110 days. Heads weighing up to 45 g, sometimes up to 65 g. As a rule, round-flat, rarely flat. The number of cloves - up to 18 pcs. The color of the scales ranges from a dull purple to lighter shades of pink. The taste of juicy cloves is weak or semi-sharp. Keeping quality is good with more than 60% preservation for more than six months.

Siberian

The name of the variety speaks for itself: it is zoned for cultivation in Siberia - Kemerovo, Tomsk, Novosibirsk and Omsk regions. A variety of stable productivity, excellent winter hardiness. Disease resistant, shooting. Bulbs weigh up to 30 g. Their color is purple with a gray tint, their shape is round-flat.

Alcor

Good for large areas and for home cultivation. It is undemanding to the soil, resistant to the main number of diseases, shooting. Productivity - 3-3.5 kg. It has 4-5 cloves in a pink onion weighing 15-35 g. The taste is semi-sharp.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Increases the chances of a good result when planting winter garlic in the fall by choosing varieties adapted for cultivation in certain regions of the country. For sowing, healthy and fresh material is selected from the crop of the same year. Shooted winter garlic can be propagated with air bulbs (bulbs), single teeth and chives.

The teeth and one-toothed teeth intended for planting to prevent infection with various types of infections require additional disinfection. This manipulation has a positive effect on the quality of the seed. To do this, after drying, small and sick specimens are sorted out, and the rest are soaked for 15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium pink color or copper sulfate (15 g per 10-12 liters of water) for 15 minutes before planting.

You can apply a complex method of disinfection: first, the cloves are soaked in a saline solution (3 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water), then for one minute - in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). After that, they immediately land.

As usual, everything starts with the planting material. If something is wrong with him, you can not count on the harvest. Therefore, for some time now I have been growing garlic

: in the first year, one-tooth bulbs are obtained from the air bulbs, and in the second year they already give strong and healthy heads of garlic with large chives. I talked in detail about the features and advantages of this method in the article

I always sow bulbs before winter, at the same time as planting garlic. Theoretically, this can be done in spring as well - one-toothed teeth ripen quickly, and there will be enough time for them. Only now it is problematic to keep bulb seeds at home in winter. And when sowing and planting in winter there is only one danger: not guessing the timing.

Bulb-grown single-teeth are an excellent planting material. Photo by the author

If planted too early, garlic can grow during thaws or lingering warm autumn. As a rule, he does not die at the same time, but weakens, and no longer gives a good harvest. If you are late with planting, the garlic will not have time to take root and prepare for winter, which will also inevitably affect the results next season.

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I sincerely advise you not to be guided by the calendar: our climate is more and more unpredictable from year to year, nature presents surprise after surprise, and what was considered an axiom 10 years ago may not work now. Every autumn you have to follow the weather forecast, take a closer look at natural phenomena, trying to guess the right time by signs. From the moment of planting winter garlic to the onset of stable cold weather, about a month should pass - this is what we proceed from in the calculations.

It is good to mulch a bed with planted garlic with peat, cover with spruce branches or straw. Garlic itself winters well, but spruce branches will help to keep the snow, and this is not only a shelter from frost, but also moisture, so necessary in spring.

You can choose garlic for planting in our catalog, which includes offers from large garden online stores. View a selection of different varieties of garlic.

Garlic Podmoskovny (elite 1up-1kg / - 10%) 548 rubles SEE

When to plant winter garlic

The agricultural technology of growing winter varieties of garlic requires planting them approximately 35 days before the onset of cold weather. This will allow the plant to root properly. Accordingly, the optimal timing for planting garlic before winter is different for each region:

• in the western and southern regions - the third decade of October;
• in the north and east - the beginning of September and its second decade;
• in the central ones - from the third decade of September to the end of the first week of October.

Experienced agronomists advice

For planting before winter, it is recommended to choose special varieties: Gribovsky, Petrovsky, Komsomolets.

Experienced summer residents advise mulching the beds with plantings for the cold season. For this, fallen leaves, conifer needles, peat are best suited. The thickness of the covering layer is at least 10-15 cm.

With the onset of warmth, the mulch is removed. After the appearance of the first shoots, it is recommended to fertilize the seedlings with nitrogen fertilizers. At the end of June, it is necessary to remove the formed arrows and feed the culture with ash.

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Winter garlic care

It is advisable that during the winter the beds are covered with snow. Caring for garlic after winter is easy. First, remove the shelter from the stalks of corn and sunflower and some types of mulch (if it does not rot in the soil). Then the soil is loosened and after a week, fertilizing is made from urea (1 table spoon per bucket of water, 2-3 l consumption per 1 sq. M).

After 2-3 weeks, a second feeding with nitrophos or nitroammophos is necessary (for a bucket of water - 2 tablespoons, for 1 sq. M - 3-4 liters). The final, third, is carried out necessarily in the first decade of June with a superphosphate solution (for a bucket of water - 2 tablespoons, for 1 sq. M - 4-5 liters).

If the weather is dry, garlic needs to be watered once a week. Shortly before harvesting, to speed up maturation, the soil from the bulb can be slightly shaved off. This should be done carefully and carefully so as not to damage the head of garlic. To care for any kind of garlic with high quality, you need to weed crops on time, especially at the beginning of their growth.

To be honest, garlic doesn't take too much care. But like

, there are activities that should not be neglected: loosening, weeding and watering. If the soil is fertile enough, well ahead of time with everything necessary, you can do without top dressing (I did not additionally feed the garlic during the season on well-processed, fertilized loam, but I did not have to complain about the harvest).

The soil under the garlic should be loose and free from weeds. Photo by the author

Weeding is especially important in the spring, while the seedlings are very young. Weeds are rampant at this time, and can take away the light and nutrition it needs from garlic. Then, periodic loosening is usually enough - at the same time the grass is removed. Garlic is very responsive to loosening, it does not like compacted soil.

But watering is a delicate matter. If there is not enough moisture, the leaves will begin to turn yellow and dry ahead of time. But excess moisture provokes rot, and the taste of the cloves deteriorates: they become watery. And then such garlic is stored worse. We start watering when the spring moisture leaves the soil, and we finish it - a month before harvesting. The rest of the time - according to the weather and needs.

So I would be glad to write specifically how many times you need to water the garlic and in what quantity - but only my experience says that there is no such rule. For example, even in the current hot and dry summer, my friend practically didn’t have to water the beds on her low-lying area with moisture-absorbing peat soil - and I’m on my sands all summer with a hose: in the evening you will pour abundantly, and by the morning it’s already the Sahara desert ... So that all the norms here are akin to the "average temperature in the hospital."

Oh, and don't forget to gently break out the flower arrows as they appear. But not all! We will certainly leave a few pieces: for seeds and as "beacons" by which we will determine the harvest time.

DETAILS: Pickled cabbage with beets and carrots - 116 step-by-step recipes with photos

And also about the care of garlic and the rules of its cultivation is described in detail in the article Do you like garlic?

Days of planting garlic before winter

Previously, we always sowed at the end of October and the beginning of November, because there is a public opinion that if winter garlic has sprouted in the fall, then it weakens and the heads will grow small.

We will see the results in the spring. Particularly interesting is the size of the heads.

Opinions are divided and only personal experience is the main advisor. At a later date, we already sowed, the garlic wintered well and gave a good harvest. It remains to check the seeding at an early date.

By the way, in the Krasnodar Territory and in some southern regions it is not too late to sow, and you can do it before the first frost. Just make the grooves deeper, about three teeth deep.

Some gardeners sow after the first frost. They rake the soil and spread the seeds. The furrows are sprinkled with previously prepared dry warm soil.

And most importantly, you need to understand that only winter varieties are suitable for podwinter sowing.

How to distinguish between winter and spring (spring) garlic, in the next topic.

Garlic is undemanding to soil, it can grow both on chernozems and on loams. He needs moisture, but he does not tolerate flooding - the roots do not develop well when there is a lack of air.

Therefore, in early spring, open, raised places are chosen for the denticles. And when the site is located in a hollow, they make high ridges that prevent flooding.

Note: it is better to grow garlic on bulbs in open sunny places.If garlic greens are needed, then the cloves are planted for it on shaded ridges.

For planting garlic, choose an area where onions and nightshade plants - potatoes, tomatoes - were not grown. Beds with legumes, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin are suitable.

Autumn soil preparation should include the introduction of organic fertilizers - rotted manure, mature mulch. In the spring, organic matter is not worth adding - it must have time to decompose and give nitrogen to the soil. In addition, fresh organic matter can cause root burns and the appearance of a bear. Therefore, we apply manure in the fall, and in the spring we process the topsoil. Loosen the crust and remove plant residues.

Note: potassium and phosphorus are also best added to the soil before winter. If this has not been done, in the spring you can add ash to the ground. It is also a complex of mineral fertilizers in a form assimilated by plants.

16.10.2018

Sometimes in autumn, garlic sprouts, and gardeners ask: "What can be done to preserve it?" And some fear that the garlic will die and need to be planted again. What can we expect?

According to the observations of experienced gardeners, garlic does not often die, even if it sprouted in November. Only in case of severe frosts without snow or after a very harsh winter does garlic freeze in the ground. Usually, only the tips of the first leaves that pop out in the fall freeze.

However, this phenomenon greatly reduces the yield and keeping quality of future bulbs. Therefore, you need to plant garlic so that it does not have time to germinate.

Old literature and some articles on the Internet recommend planting garlic in September. But in recent years, the weather has changed: autumn began to be naughty with late thaws, and sometimes they happen in December!

In this regard, it is necessary to revise the planting dates and plant the garlic no earlier than mid-October. The roots of garlic can grow at a soil temperature of 4..5 degrees, but if such a degree (and even more so) lasts a long time, then the arrow begins to grow.

What to do now? In principle, even without your participation, the garlic can persist. Its viability is calculated on the fact that sometimes weather cataclysms occur in nature. But if you put in the effort, you can help the garlic survive the winter better.

So what are we going to do? Mulch! This universal technique was invented by nature itself. For example, in forests where wild onions and garlic are found, the mulching material is leaves and wilted grass. You can also use this material in the garden.

You can also cover the bed with compost or rotted manure (if it is covered with plastic, it probably hasn't frozen yet). Peat, sawdust and coniferous litter from the forest are suitable. If none of this, then collect a few buckets of earth from the greenhouse. A polycarbonate greenhouse keeps heat well, the earth does not freeze there for a long time and remains loose.

Fill the garden bed with any mulching material so that the sprouted garlic leaves are hidden under this "fur coat". In winter, this will keep them from drying out in the cold.

Each region has its own optimal timing for planting garlic for the winter. They usually coincide with the moment when the soil temperature drops to 10-12 #C. In winter, the teeth should be well rooted, preferably with sprouts of 0.7-1.5 cm. Such garlic winters safely and grows actively in spring, and this is one of the main conditions for obtaining a good harvest.

If garlic is planted too early for the winter, the chives, without having time to take root well, can start to grow, which will greatly weaken their winter hardiness. Greens will die from a sharp drop in temperature. And for its formation, the plastic substances accumulated in the teeth have already been spent.

Later planting dates for the winter (closer to November) are dangerous because the garlic will not have time to take root and freeze out.

Science believes that for the middle regions of Russia, the optimal time for planting garlic with dry cloves for the winter is the period from September 25 to mid-October. About 5 years ago, I also tried to cope with this work before the Intercession.

But the weather has changed, so now raspberries are helping me to determine the timing. As soon as its leaves turned golden and flew from the bushes, it was time to start planting garlic. In the spring, at such a sowing time, the feather begins to grow back immediately after the soil thaws. The more greenery the plant grows before the onset of heat, the larger the heads of the garlic will be.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with: Storing garlic in a cellar in winter

However, if there is a risk of not investing in the optimal time (there is no way to get to the site), then I prefer not to postpone this work until November. In late plantings for winter winter, there is always more freezing, especially if the winter turns out to be with little snow and frosty.

And the garlic that has risen in the fall, according to my observations, has never froze to death. Although if large sprouts pop up, this does not always benefit him. After the plant releases the first root, the composition of the cell sap changes, sugars accumulate in it, and the syrup, like water, does not freeze. Therefore, the sprouted garlic simply falls asleep for the winter, and grows back in the spring, even if the leaves have suffered from frost.

Disassemble the heads on the day of planting. If this is done earlier, the teeth dry out and lose germination. When peeling, make sure that the old bottom is not left. It, like a cork, does not allow moisture to pass through and prevents rooting.

You should not remove the outer shell from the cloves, after which it will become more susceptible to all unfavorable factors, and the bulb grown from a bare clove will be poorly stored.

To protect against diseases, planting material (teeth, one-tooth, bulbs) can be soaked in one of the preparations: Immunocytophyte, Fitosporin, Zaslon, Barrier.

• Lyubasha;
• Sofievsky;
• Dobrynya;
• Dubrovsky;
• Antonnik;
• Dutch Messidor;
• Gulliver;
• Alkor and others.

In fact, in the fall, you can plant any type and variety of garlic. Most importantly, you need to be sure that the culture of this variety has already yielded good results in the given soil in which you are going to sow it.

• Winter garlic is denser and harder, cloves on average from 8 to 12 pieces, frost tolerance is more persistent. Arrows with bulbs germinate only from the winter species.
• Spring garlic is softer, the cloves are located in a chaotic position and there are an average of 8 to 20. Spring garlic is less resistant to cold weather.
• Planting depends on the region and climate. Therefore, you should take into account this important factor and plant root crops, according to your place of residence.

• Choose good, large teeth with intact skin.
• Some gardeners harden the fruit to keep it from freezing in winter. To do this, they put the garlic in a cold place for 1-2 months. The average temperature should be around - 5 ° С.
• You also need to treat the seeds with a special solution, which, during the growth process, will protect the fruits from insects and other pests.
• After processing, the roots must be well dried.

Preparation of a land plot for disembarkation:

• Prepare the site for planting by fertilizing and removing crops that have been planted on the site in advance.

• Make furrows 15 to 20 cm deep and 20-25 cm apart.

• Pour grain sand at the bottom of the strips in a layer of no more than 3 cm, this will protect the roots from rotting.

• Insert the cloves into the soil. It is important to know that the distance between large teeth should be no less than 12 cm and no more than 15 cm, and between small ones - no less than 8 cm and no more than 10 cm.

• After planting, it is necessary to mulch the soil at least 2 cm.

• Frozen;
• I did not have time to ascend;
• Unsuitable variety for the climate;
• Non-compliance with the landing rules;
• Wrong landing time;
• Insufficient landing depth.

• If the garlic has not sprouted, dig up and determine the cause.Replace the frozen root crop with a new one and plant. If you are not planted deeply enough, the garlic will sprout later.
• There is also a chance that the variety you have chosen did not take root. In this situation, it is necessary to choose varieties only those that have already given fruit more than once. This applies to those summer residents who like to prescribe seeds from other localities.
• Landing rules cannot be neglected, since this is a rather long process, verified by great work and experience. Therefore, in this situation, you should not rely on your intuition.
• The time for planting plays an important role, since the harvest depends on it. A planted root vegetable will not be able to rise too early in cold weather and will rot, and for late garlic it will take more time to germinate.

• Garlic does not like a humid environment, therefore, it can be watered in the spring once every 2 weeks, but provided that the weather is favorable enough with the presence of natural precipitation.
• If the spring is hot, then the irrigation system must be increased up to 3 times every 2 weeks.
• And if the spring season is accompanied by frequent rains, then you do not need to water the garlic, as this can aggravate the situation.

• Prepare the beds as you did for the garlic earlier.
• Dig up the garlic fruit very carefully so as not to damage the roots.
• Transfer them in a standing position into the prepared recesses and pour abundantly with water.
• Then bury in the ground, pressing the roots well to the soil.

• With the arrival of spring, the garlic begins to sprout and release the first leaves, when their number reaches 3-4 pieces, it is necessary to make the first feeding of the future harvest. To do this, dilute 1 tbsp of urea and the same amount of complex mineral fertilizer in 10 liters of water. The consumption of funds should be - 2-3 liters per 1 m².
• After 2-3 weeks, one more top dressing is required, which consists in diluting 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water. Consumption should be 3-4 liters per 1 m².
• At the end of June, it is also required to feed the planted root crops. Dissolve 2 tablespoons of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and pour over the garlic, consuming 4-5 liters per 1 m².

• Before the soil begins to dry completely, the top layer of the soil must be removed. This will allow the garlic to become saturated with oxygen.
• After that, you need to loosen the soil, but you should not go deep, it is enough to loosen it up to 4 cm in depth.
• Then use a mulch (soil covering material) made from sawdust, dry grass, humus, or peat.

• Early or late disembarkation;
• Excessive soil moisture;
• Painful garlic;
• Too dry soil;
• Lack of minerals;
• Harmful insects and diseases, which include:

1. soak the cloves of garlic in a solution of table salt (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water) for 5 minutes. Garlic responds very well to salt: its germination and development power increases. Besides, salt is a good antiseptic.
2. rinse with plain water
3. hold in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (slightly stronger than pink) for 5 minutes
4. you can use copper sulfate instead of potassium permanganate: 1/4 teaspoon per 2.5 liters of water for 1-2 minutes

• not frozen
• did not go deep into the soil
• ascended in spring healthy

Site selection and preparation of the garden

To get a good harvest, the place of planting garlic in the fall before winter must meet certain requirements:

• in the same place, it can be planted no more than once every three years (provided that there are no plant diseases), it is better - after 4-5 years;
• Observance of the rules of crop rotation helps to achieve high yields, that is, knowledge, after which it is best to plant garlic. The optimal predecessors are cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, legumes, as well as various cereals (not counting oats, barley). He loves soil after forage grasses (clover, alfalfa), goes well with strawberries. Potatoes, beets, carrots, onions, radishes as precursors of garlic are not good;
• it is desirable that the site for planting garlic be located in an open and slightly elevated area: he prefers moderate humidity and sun.

What crops can be planted together

Let's take a look at the compatibility of garlic with other vegetables in the garden. Due to the significant concentration of biologically active elements, garlic plays the role of a natural fungicide in the garden, successfully coping with various fungal infections. In addition, phytoncides secreted by the plant are ready to inhibit the growth of pathogens. These outstanding qualities have a great effect on the neighbors of garlic, helping them to be strong and sturdy.

For example, planting potatoes surrounded by garlic seedlings are less affected by late blight.

Several garlic cloves, which sit between strawberry bushes in the fall, can scare away pests from the future fragrant harvest.

A bed of garlic next to a carrot will help rid the latter of the invasion of a carrot fly, leaf beetle.

Garlic will also be a good companion for other vegetables and herbs: onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley and all types of salads. Its cloves are planted right between the plants.

Berries and flowers also adore garlic as a protector and helper. More grateful "partners" will be raspberries and currants, as well as roses, gladioli and tulips.

1. In place of winter you can plant spinach, dill, lettuce, arugula. It is a good idea to sow green manures for a while for good soil for the next sowing.
2. In place of the spring: cucumbers, tomatoes, beets and potatoes, as well as the beloved kluunik and equally beloved legumes.

Secret 3: crop rotation as prevention

Garlic is often affected by diseases and pests. And pathogens and pest larvae in the soil often persist. And by planting a plant in the same place for several years in a row (or planting it after crops subject to the same misfortunes), we are at great risk. It's like a lottery: either he gets sick, or the problems are bypassed. Do we need it? ..

If we want a good harvest of healthy garlic, it should not be returned to its original place earlier than 3-4 years later. Moreover, if there is still a problem - they found the affected heads during harvesting - it would be nice to start improving the soil. Well, at least sow siderates - the same mustard, for example, or plant marigolds with calendula.

Let me remind you that garlic should not be planted after garlic, onions and potatoes. You can and should - after legumes, cucumbers, cauliflower and early white cabbage.

Features of garlic

According to experts, garlic cannot be planted in one place for two years in a row or more. If this rule is not followed, the soil will become infected with the stem nematode. How does this happen? The roots of any plant, including garlic, are capable of releasing mycotoxins: this is how they protect their borders. These substances accumulate, which leads to the poisoning of the plant itself.

It is very important, after the garlic, to identify on this site such crops that will give the soil a rest and heal it. What should be grown after garlic, read the article below.

Secret 4: cleaning

Like onions, garlic is very important to remove in time and dry well. Winter garlic is generally unimportant, and if we tighten it up or hurry up with harvesting, but don't dry the heads properly, we will ruin all the results of our labors with our own hands.

Garlic heads. Photo by the author

Do not neglect the weather forecast: if heavy and prolonged rains promise, it is advisable to dig up the garlic before they start. And the heat can accelerate ripening, like this summer, for example.

Again, as in the case of onions, it is better to remove the garlic a little earlier than overexpose in the garden. Overripe heads crumble, fall apart into separate teeth - they are no longer subject to storage, only for processing.On the other hand, if you hurry hard, unripe garlic will fade very quickly - young heads can be removed selectively, for harvesting for the winter, but not for storage.

How to guess? It is believed that a sign of ripening is the yellowing of its leaves about a quarter of the length from the top. But this is an unreliable guideline: the leaves can turn yellow from drought, from lack of nutrition, from diseases or damage to the root system, from uncomfortable conditions (too dense or waterlogged soil, high acidity of the soil, and so on).

You can navigate by the length of the growing season: usually winter garlic ripens 100-110 days after germination. But, depending on the variety, options are also possible here.

I usually look at flower stalks. The bulbs, while they are not ripe, are "packed" in small cases - as soon as this shell bursts, it's time to remove the garlic. But this summer I failed this landmark too: the heads had already matured by the end of July - their outer shells had dried up - and just now, a week and a half or two later, the shells of the bulbs begin to open ...

Air bulbs are not only a seed, but also an indicator of crop ripening. Photo by the author

So, willy-nilly, all known rules have to be checked and specified - and this is probably the most important secret of the harvest. There is no need to blindly follow any instructions - it is important to apply any recommendations wisely, taking into account your own knowledge, experience and local conditions.

DETAILS: Fertilizers for garlic in the fall - what fertilizers to apply

What tricks and secrets of the garlic harvest do you know? Write about your experience in growing this crop, tell us how you are achieving success.

What to plant after garlic in July

Neutral to such predecessors as cereals, some cereals (rye, oats), strawberries and strawberries.

This crop is similar to garlic, so the same crop rotation rules apply to it. It is also important to note that it is not recommended to plant onions in one place for more than two years. Therefore, you need to constantly look for a suitable bed.

In order not to get confused, a special crop rotation journal should be kept. Thus, you will have everything organized, and you will never forget where and when a certain crop grew in your garden.

And in some cases, the earth must be given time to rest. That is, do not grow any vegetables and berries at all. This does not have to be done on all beds, set the order for each year.

Some summer residents mistakenly believe that crop rotation should be observed only on land plots with a large area. In fact, crop change is very important in a small vegetable garden. Therefore, try to follow the rules thanks to which you will harvest a good harvest every year.

When the garden bed is empty, many summer residents immediately know what to sow after garlic - greens! And it would be a great idea because plants like spinach, dill, arugula, parsley, celery, lettuce, and lettuce have a short growing season and at least one more fresh vitamin crop can be harvested. Before planting greens, be sure to add any complex fertilizer to the soil (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Plants planted in summer especially suffer from lack of moisture in the soil. Therefore, if you want to get juicy greens, sow seeds in well-moistened grooves, and in dry weather in the evening water the plantings with warm water.

It is not recommended to plant onions after garlic, because they have common diseases and pests. Good precursors for onions: radishes, cabbage, and cucumbers

In July, you can have time to sow radishes and cucumbers after garlic. The main thing is to choose a suitable early ripening variety and take care of the correct agricultural technology.

Also, the soil after garlic will be "appreciated" by Peking cabbage, which can be sown even in July.Heads of cabbage will turn out to be strong and good if you heed the recommendations from our article.

In August, after garlic, you can plant a radish. Moreover, allocate not the entire garden for the vegetable, but, for example, only a part of it, so that the greens will also fit. Daikon, black or green radish - choose any and sow until the middle of the month. Leave the distance between the seeds about 20-30 cm, between the rows - 30-40 cm. Sowing depth - 2 cm. Cruciferous fleas may appear after germination, so dust the plants with ash immediately.

A particularly good harvest of radish will also be obtained when grown in areas where cucumbers, tomatoes, and legumes grew.

Or you can just give the land a rest and plant siderata after the garlic. They will restore soil fertility and at the same time decorate the garden. Sowing can be carried out in the fall. Any plant will do: rye, oats, vetch, mustard, rapeseed, phacelia, lupine, etc. Leave the green manure in the garden until spring. The roots of the plants will loosen the soil, and the top will rot and act as an organic fertilizer.

Re-seed the garden at the start of the season, then mow the grown plants at the start of flowering and start planting the main crops. Some of the mown green manure should be added to the compost pit. After such preparation, the soil will be especially fertile, and the harvest will be rich!

In the fall, you can plant strawberries (garden strawberries) after garlic. It is one of the best precursors for the berry plant. The bushes will grow healthy, and the berries will be large and plentiful. It's all about phytoncides, which remain in the ground after harvesting garlic and inhibit the growth of dangerous bacteria, thereby protecting strawberries from diseases and pests. When using this method of planting, you can forget about gray rot for a long time.

Garlic and strawberries will also make great garden neighbors. But it is desirable that the planting is separated by the aisle.

Now is the time to decide what to plant after the garlic for the next year. The choice is quite large here. On the former garlic beds, they will feel great:

• potatoes (especially early varieties);
• legumes (peas, beans, lentils, etc.);
• cucumbers;
• strawberries (garden strawberries);
• pumpkin;
• zucchini;
• pepper;
• eggplant.

Carrots will also take root well after garlic. Thanks to phytoncides, plants will suffer less from their main pest - the carrot fly.

White cabbage and cauliflower, table beets will feel worse after garlic. But if desired, they can be planted in the beds, having well prepared the soil in the fall.

Tomatoes are also not considered the best followers for garlic. But if the bed is located in a well-lit place without drafts, it is quite possible to get a good harvest of tomatoes.

Landing technology

To ensure an efficient harvest, it is important to know not only when, but also how to properly plant the prepared material:

• sowing is desirable to carry out in the soil moist, not overdried;
• when planting, the teeth are installed vertically, downside down (if they are laid sideways, they may not rise);
• the depth of planting of garlic is 6-8 cm, the soil layer above the crops is about 4 cm (they do not need to be made deeper);
• it is impossible to strongly press the cloves into the ground, in this case, during germination, the garlic can crawl out of the garden bed;
• planting scheme for winter garlic: keep at least 10 cm distance between crops, and 20-25 cm or more between the ridges.

The beds are leveled with a rake. It is advisable to cover them with mulch with a layer of 2-5 cm - straw, sawdust, peat, pine needles. If winter is expected to be harsh, you can additionally use stalks of corn or sunflower (this is not necessary when planting garlic in a greenhouse).

Garlic pests and diseases

Due to the presence of phytoncides in garlic, most of the pests of the garden and pathogenic microorganisms that cause diseases bypass planting it.However, the cultivation of winter garlic can be threatened by some persistent pests and fungi.

Nematode

It feeds on garlic juice, and therefore is very dangerous. The bulbs affected by it stop growing, have a loose, unusable structure. The green stem of the plant thickens. As a preventive measure, the above methods of disinfecting seed and competent crop rotation are effective.

Onion fly

Yellowed feather tips may indicate not only a lack of fertilizer or watering, but also damage from an onion fly. The presence of small worms in the bulb will help to verify the third option. The technology of saving the harvest includes irrigation along the grooves between the rows of garlic with a solution in a bucket of water of one glass of rock salt.

If this method was ineffective, you need to apply a solution of ammonia at a concentration of 30 ml per bucket of water. Onion fly larvae are destroyed by ammonia, and therefore feeding with mullein infusion, watering with urea, will help.

Mosaic

The disease is viral in nature. It is recognized by the appearance on the leaves of stripes of a pale green color or the same shade of small specks. The inflorescences on the bent arrows take the form of a sponge. The seeds obtained from them have a low germination rate. Prevention consists in using healthy planting material and following the rules of crop rotation. Diseased plants must be removed from the garden immediately.

Fusarium

The disease is caused by a fungus and often develops in hot weather. In diseased plants, the leaves turn brown and die off, most of the roots rot. There is no way to treat already affected plants. Prevention, as usual, includes compliance with the rules of crop rotation and storage of vegetables, the use of healthy seeds.

Methods of use

Sprouted cloves are cleaned, crushed in a blender or meat grinder, salt is added, placed in glass jars, covered with a lid and placed in the refrigerator.

This seasoning can be added to dishes, salads, without the use of heat treatment. The main thing is not to overdo it, because these green feathers are more pungent and aromatic. You can make an original spice. In the warmth on a sheet of paper, lay out finely chopped sprouted garlic cloves. After a couple of days, collect, put in a container and put in the refrigerator. Add to soups, vegetable and meat dishes.

Harvesting and storage of crops

When growing winter garlic both in the open field and in the greenhouse, the signal to start harvesting is yellowing of the lower leaves. Ripening dates depend on the variety, but generally fall on the second half of July - early August. The dug vegetable needs to be dried for several days.

You can store garlic in different ways:

• in the cellar in an enameled container, on the bottom of which salt is poured with a layer of 2-3 cm, with another layer of salt you need to pour garlic in the middle of the container;
• in room conditions, if the heads are first dipped in paraffin or the root tails are burned, the stem is shortened to 2 cm and stored in one layer with a shaded, cool place;
• in the refrigerator - in a plastic bag.

Properly stored, the whole family will be provided with a juicy, "vigorous" and healthy vegetable for a long time.

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Benefits of properly planted plants

Experienced summer residents are familiar with the concept of crop rotation. This rule provides for a certain scheme for planting plants in a summer cottage or personal plot. The main principle here: for the next year, "move" the plants around the site, preventing re-planting of the same crops on the same bed.

First of all, this is necessary for the soil to gain strength and restore the balance of nutrients that it gave to the plant.

Crop rotation reduces the likelihood of soil contamination by pathogens and pests, in particular, stem nematode. These filamentous worms are a thunderstorm for crops. Experienced gardeners, as a rule, draw up a planting schedule ahead of time, for 2-3 years. This event will help to avoid repetitions when planting and monitor the required amount of fertilizer in the beds.

For example, thanks to the biologically active substances contained in garlic, there are no fungal spores on its beds. They do not tolerate the smell of garlic and the main pests of carrots - carrot fly and flies. By planting these plants nearby, you free yourself from pest control - the vegetables will do it themselves.

Garlic will also help in the fight against the main enemy of potatoes - the Colorado potato beetle. In order for harmful insects to bypass the tubers, you need to plant a plant with a characteristic odor around the area with potatoes. It also scares off aphids, ants and bedbugs that love raspberries and currants, and representatives of the nightshade family (eggplants, tomatoes) grow better next to garlic and are less damaged.

The bad neighbors of this representative of the onion subfamily are plants of the legume family. Lentils, beans, peas and other beans should not be planted next to our hero: they will bloom poorly and give a meager harvest. Spicy herbs also do not tolerate being close to garlic: the essential oils of these plants get into the soil, are drawn in by the root system of the garlic and slow down its growth and development.

There are many crops that are best planted in areas previously used to grow garlic. What to plant after harvesting garlic? On the vacated bed, you can define strawberries, cucumbers, any legumes, annual grasses, winter wheat.

If you alternate garlic with cucumbers, both crops increase yields. What to sow after garlic? Umbrella crops such as dill are an excellent option. After planting garlic, as well as next to it, strawberries grow beautifully on this garden plot.

So that the garlic bed after harvesting is not empty in winter, it is sown with wheat or other plants that will also serve as good green manures. For this purpose, rye, mustard, phacelia, vetch and others are often used. The earth will rest, and the plants will replenish its supply with useful substances.

Whenever deciding what to plant after garlic for the next year, you should consider the variety of the predecessor. This is due to the different agricultural technology of the crops that will be grown on this site. If winter garlic grew, a lot of nitrogen fertilizers accumulate in the soil under it. In the case of planting spring varieties in this area, it is necessary to fertilize the land with phosphorus and potash mixtures. It is important that subsequent crops prefer exactly those fertilizers that the soil has accumulated in large quantities.

If in the vacant garden bed where the garlic grew, the order of the planted crops is correctly organized, you can get the following advantages:

• There are fewer pests living in the soil.
• The number of causative agents of various diseases that occur in plants decreases.
• Nutrients and nutrients in the soil improve in quality and increase in quantity.
• The organization of the correct use of fertilizers is improving.
• Mineral additives added to the soil have less negative impact on plants.

Before planting garlic in the winter, you need to think not only about the predecessors, but also about the plant's real neighbors. Planting between outlets of strawberries or garden strawberries justifies itself. This method saves space in the garden, especially if the garlic is planted in small quantities. Strawberries contain phytoncides that effectively repel pests.You can easily get a high yield of berries and harvest healthy garlic.

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You can plant the garlic about 65 cm away from the tomatoes. This is a favorable neighborhood in which garlic will be protected from the appearance of scab, and tomatoes from rust damage. Neighborhood with potatoes will bring more benefits to potatoes, as it will protect against the attack of the Colorado potato beetle.

In addition to all of the above, you need to be aware of other factors that affect the quality of the crop. These factors include:

1. Choosing a place. Garlic needs to be given an area where the sun will constantly be. This will ensure that large teeth are obtained. When planting in a shaded garden, it is necessary to plant garlic rarely.
2. Selection of garlic. For planting, you need to select only healthy, large bulbs. The teeth for planting should be large, they should not be moldy, dotted, and damaged. Before planting the garlic, the cloves must be disinfected.
3. Watering. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, garlic loves water. It is better to use warm water for irrigation, which has settled a little, for example, in a barrel. It is necessary to weed the beds regularly, loosen the soil. This must be done carefully so as not to hurt the roots.
4. Fertilizing garlic. Garlic needs fertilization: organic and mineral. You can prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. l. urea and 10 liters of water. Watering the beds is necessary at the rate of 1 sq. meter of land - 5 liters of fertilizer.
5. Removing arrows. Removing the arrows will increase the yield by 20%. The arrows cannot be pulled out, they must be pinched off at a short distance from the inflorescences.