What can and cannot be planted next to grapes, plant compatibility

Probably, novice gardeners complain about any vegetable as much as about carrots. And it is small, and crooked, and savory! It seems that they watered and fed, as expected, but she does not like everything. But do not rush to complain about the fastidious nature of your ward. Better try to remember what exactly grew next to her. Perhaps you picked up unlucky neighbors for carrots? Yes, don't be surprised. At first glance, a mistake that was frivolous could well have caused the unsightly appearance and mediocre taste of root crops.

Requirements for growth conditions

In fact, carrots are very unpretentious and if you can provide them with favorable growth conditions, you will not have to complain about the harvest. For sowing carrot seeds, an even (slight slope is allowed), sunny place should be taken. The soil should be loose, moisture-absorbing and well fertilized. For growing carrots, it is not allowed to use the beds where anise, coriander, beans, celery, parsley, parsnip, scorzonera grew last season. Early potatoes and cabbage are considered good crop precursors. It is also impossible to grow carrots in one place for two seasons in a row, ideally, it should return to its previous bed no earlier than after 3-4 years.

The soil on the site is dug up in the fall to a depth of 1.5 shovel bayonets, carefully breaking up the lumps - this is a very important condition. If the forming root crop encounters an obstacle on its way, it will change the direction of growth, and by autumn you will get a harvest of "horned" carrots, which will be very difficult to pull out of the ground. Before sowing, the soil is filled with organic and mineral fertilizers, leveled and moistened abundantly. Further care for carrots involves the timely implementation of such agrotechnical measures as watering and weeding the beds, thinning and feeding the seedlings.

What are the criteria for making a choice?

When choosing a variety, they always pay attention to the characteristics of the variety, the characteristics of fruiting and the ripening time. At the same time, one of the important points is missed - the plant's ability to self-pollinate. There are two groups:

• with bisexual flowers;
• with flowering female type.

For crops with flowers of both sexes, the presence of another species nearby is not important, and they are little dependent on insects in terms of fruiting. At the same time, the presence of another species nearby has a positive effect on the yield indicators.

There are varieties for which female-type flowers are characteristic. For them, the work of natural pollinators in the form of insects is important, and planting a number of bushes with bisexual flowers affects them positively. During bad weather, varieties incapable of self-pollination require manual work.

Compatibility

Despite the possibility of planting a number of different grape varieties, it is important to consider a number of important details. Plants have a number of significant differences in terms of breeding qualities, so caring for them can differ significantly. In this regard, the compatibility of varieties should be taken into account when planting plants on the territory that do not differ much in terms of growing and care conditions. The following points should be considered:

• requirements for the place and conditions of growing;
• ripening period;
• type of grapes in the form of belonging to the table or technical type;
• features of growth and fruiting.

There are crops with early and late ripening, which require different amounts of heat to ripen. Bushes can differ significantly in shoot height and growth power, some varieties do not require strong support, others can grow up to 2 m. The choice of planting scheme and work with plant feeding depends on these characteristics.

With fruit and vegetable crops

Carrots have a docile character and perfectly coexist with most garden crops. The best companions for her are:

• Onion... The most faithful friend and ally of carrots. Joint planting is beneficial to both crops: carrots protect the neighbor from the onion fly, and he, in turn, scares off the carrot fly from the "friend". But! Crops have different requirements for the water supply regime: while carrots need moisture to form root crops, watering onions must be stopped, otherwise the heads will rot. Considering this fact, it is recommended to grow carrots and onions in separate beds.
• Garlic... Natural disinfectant. Its vigorous aroma is not pleasant to harmful insects, and phytoncides released into the soil destroy the pathogenic flora. Cultures coexist happily without interfering with each other's development. For example, winter garlic is planted in October, and carrot seeds are sown in the aisles in November. The garden bed is mulched with peat and humus. At the end of March, garlic "feathers" hatch from the ground, after 2-3 weeks, carrot shoots appear. In July, the garlic is harvested, and carrots remain the only crop in the garden.
• Early vegetables and herbs (radish, spinach, summer radish, lettuce). Sowing these crops in a carrot bed is the best way to increase your usable area in a small area. Seeds of early-maturing vegetables are mixed with sand or tea granules and sown between rows of carrots. As needed, vegetables and herbs are harvested for seasonal consumption, leaving the garden at the full disposal of carrots.
• Legumes... They feed the carrots with nitrogen, thereby stimulating its development, and also protect the planting from the wireworm. The only problem is that peas, beans, peanuts, black beans grow rapidly, obscuring the sun. However, if they are planted on the north side of the garden, such a neighborhood will not cause inconvenience to carrots.
• Tomatoes... Both crops feed on different soil layers, which means they do not oppress each other. In addition, the proximity of tomatoes improves the palatability of root crops.
• Cucumbers... They are friendly towards almost all inhabitants of garden beds, so carrots are very supportive of their proximity. In addition, cucumber lashes form difficult-to-pass thickets, preventing voracious slugs and snails from reaching the neighbor.
• Broccoli and Brussels sprouts... They grow well next to carrots, not competing with them for food and moisture.

Video recipe for the occasion

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The advantages of mixed plantings

It is worth noting that the combination of vegetables in the garden is not the latest trend in garden farming. Even the American Indians have known since ancient times a successful trio: peas, corn, pumpkin. The classic community of plants has successfully migrated today and is successfully used by many vegetable growers: peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, corn serves as a support for it, pumpkin, covering the ground, fights weeds.

Classic trio

The organization of joint plantings is a more promising and exciting activity than the cultivation of monocultures on separate sites. However, the approach to planning "communal" beds must be responsible. It is not enough to know what vegetables and other crops can be planted nearby, you need to be prepared for observations, analysis of the results of the neighborhood. But people who decided to experiment and have taken more than one crop from combined plantings note many advantages of this approach:

• The available area of ​​land is used more rationally, the harvest is removed from it more than when planting with a monoculture.
• The vegetables in the garden are looking good and are healthy or less sick.
• The need for irrigation of crops is reduced.
• There is no need for frequent thorough weeding of the beds.
• The time for carrying out preparatory garden works is reduced.
• It becomes possible to reduce or eliminate the use of mineral fertilizers due to the fixation of nitrogen by legumes.
• One-sided depletion of the soil, its "fatigue" is prevented, the need for crop rotation gradually disappears.
• The rejection of pesticides is becoming a reality, since many plants attract beneficial insects and birds that destroy pests. There are also flowers and herbs that repel harmful insects and rodents.
• Harvesting is carried out throughout the season, if other crops are sown on the area vacated after the early ones.
• It is possible to create a kind of microclimate in the garden, using tall, resistant plants as curtains to protect gentle neighbors from the winds and direct sun.

Cabbage, marigolds, calendula - a wonderful neighborhood

With fragrant herbs

Plants with a strong, distinctive aroma are good partners for many horticultural crops, including carrots. Root vegetables are especially juicy and sweet next to sage. The development of carrots is favored by the proximity to such herbs as basil, rosemary, thyme, mint, lemon balm, marjoram, the aroma of which scares away aphids and carrot flies from planting.

Undesirable neighbors for carrots are its related fennel, dill, anise, lovage, parsley, celery - these plants actively absorb nutrients from the soil that carrots need for development, and attract common pests to planting. It is also not recommended to grow hyssop and wormwood in the immediate vicinity of carrot beds - by nature, aggressive, they oppress their less hardy neighbor, reducing its yield and impairing the taste of root crops.

Date: 05/25/2016.

Updated: 07.10.

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After which you can plant the garlic?

The best precursors to garlic are:

1. Cereals (wheat, black rice, timothy grass, bent grass, grown as green manure). During the entire vegetative period, these plants not only do not deplete the soil, but also significantly enrich it with a large amount of nutrients and microelements, and also release substances into it that inhibit the growth of weeds. This has a beneficial effect on the growth of garlic and makes it possible to obtain especially large and strong heads.
2. Melons and gourds (squash, pumpkin, vegetable marrow).
3. Legumes (peas, lentils, beans, soybeans). Their powerful root system is able to loosen even very heavy clay soil, thereby significantly improving its structure and facilitating the access of oxygen to the roots of other plants. Thanks to the beneficial bacteria that live in the roots of legumes, the soil is saturated with nitrogen.
4. Any varieties of cabbage (especially cauliflower).
5. Forage grasses (sweet clover, goat's rue, alfalfa, clover).
6. Tomatoes.
7. Berry crops.

Early-ripening potatoes are also an acceptable precursor to garlic. The short vegetative period does not allow the root crop to significantly deplete the soil, so you can safely plant garlic on the vacated bed.

Crop rotation and its meaning

Correct crop rotation is of great importance in any gardening industry. Experienced gardeners carefully plan where, what beds will be located, what will grow on them. It takes into account what crops grew in the garden in the previous year. Compatibility with other crops is important if the combination is selected correctly, berry, vegetable, green crops will not hurt, and in the fall they will delight you with a healthy and rich harvest.

Unsuitable crops can inhibit plant growth.They will "reward" the plant with many diseases, fungal infections, which will adversely affect the harvest, or lead to death. All this fully applies to garlic, the most popular vegetable in the garden.

Friends of the grapes

There are many plants that improve the health of the grapes. Lenz Moser wrote:

The notion that the grape bush grows best on bare ground is just an old prejudice. ... The grains get along well with the roots of the vine. Low-growing species of clover, vetch, peas, quinoa, veronica and so on are also not harmful. Wood lice, sedum, some mosses even contribute to the growth of the vine.

Here is a list of plants that have a positive effect on grapes. They are listed in alphabetical order:

Asters, arabis (alpine rezuha), aubriezia, horse beans, spring vetch, viola (pansies), gypsophila (kachim), peas, field buckwheat, doriknium, medicinal smoke, melon, strawberries, cereals (many), common groundwort, onions onions, alfalfa, mallow (mallow and neglected), chard, woodlice (zvechatka), forget-me-nots, cucumbers, sedum (white and hare cabbage), purslane, primrose (primrose), radish, soft wheat, mignonette, rye, beets (table and sugar), scorcier (black root), soybeans, prickly tartar (thistle), dill, Drummond phlox, cauliflower, celandine large, vegetable spinach, sorrel, sainfoin, multifoliate ulcer.

First conclusions

About three years ago, we disbanded a bed with remontant garden strawberries, which was located next to the vineyard. Some of the mustache survived, as they managed to crawl under the vines. There the strawberries took root and grew. She felt great, although the harvest of berries was scanty. Grapes obviously liked the neighborhood with strawberries.

Self-seeding of dill grew well nearby. Apparently, such a neighborhood did not irritate the grapes. The garlic planted side by side was powerful and tall, although its heads were smaller than we expected. It may be a coincidence, but there were no wasps on the side of the vineyard where the garlic was located.

Eggplants felt the worst. The seedlings, planted between the grape bushes, weakened and practically did not increase in size. I had to delete it. Several of the grape bushes under which it was planted had problems. These unsystematic observations of the joint cultivation of grapes and other crops were the beginning of a serious study of this issue.

The mutual influence of plants is of interest to many gardeners and gardeners. We all know that plants can help their neighbors, make them feel less well, or maintain a neutral relationship. Fierce wars are sometimes fought not only on the surface of the beds, but also underground. Where the roots are. We are not talking about a massive seizure of territories, when the main culture has neither a place nor a normal diet. Even single plants growing nearby can have an effect.

The books by N. Kurdyumov and Lenz Moser helped me to figure out whether it is worth planting grapes together with other crops or keeping it isolated from them. The work "Viticulture in a new way" by the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser confirmed my observations and the reliability of the opinions of familiar Ukrainian and Moldovan gardeners.

In addition, the vast experience of this practitioner made it possible to substantiate bold conclusions. He warned that it is important to take into account the location of the site, the original structure of the soil, the age and nature of the formation of the grapes, the season, climate and many other circumstances. Such a huge amount of factual material has been analyzed that Lenz Moser's experience is credible.

Green fertilizers

It is important for grapes that the soil is structured.The roots of green manure plants “penetrate deep into the soil, thereby creating a connection between the deep soil horizons and the external environment. When these roots die off, the cavities that remain after them quickly fill the roots of the grapes, which find nutrients here in an easily digestible form. After planting, the green mass and roots decompose, turning into the best and cheapest humus. " And since the roots of such plants penetrate very deeply (up to two meters), when they decompose, nutrients are at a great depth.

As a green fertilizer, vetch, peas, oats, barley, buckwheat, fodder cabbage, rye, wheat, alfalfa, reps and some other fast-growing crops that give a lot of green mass can be sown from the end of July. They are plowed in in the fall. In the spring, grasses can use up the moisture of winter precipitation that grapes need.

Lenz Moser attached great importance to the existence of earthworms in the soil of the vineyards.

The vineyard, in the soil of which there are many earthworms, is in good condition, in the complete absence of them, the development of grape bushes deteriorates. When densely grown plants that have been sown on green manure are rolled up and left lodged for several weeks, they form an excellent cover on the soil surface.

Under it, earthworms are bred in huge numbers. In soils poor in humus, they are almost absent.

In order for the grasses in the spring and in the first half of summer not to take a lot of moisture and nutrients from the grape bushes, they should be mowed regularly, leaving the green mass on the soil. Over time, the casing layer will build up - the basis of humus, which inhibits the growth of herbs.

In the ninth year after sowing the grasses, a 6 - 8 cm thick humus layer covering the soil was formed in the vineyard, and the soil is soft like a Persian carpet, due to which it completely absorbs moisture from even the largest precipitation, soil erosion or water runoff even on steep slopes is completely excluded.

Lenz Moser noted that such a technique is possible only with mature and strong grape bushes. Their yield is greatly increased. In young and weak bushes, some suppression of growth may be observed at first. For example, barley inhibits the growth of seedlings, but later only benefits.

The individual conclusions drawn by Lenz Moser seem very bold. The author understood this perfectly. People who visited his vineyards "said that they would never have believed anything like this if they had not seen it with their own eyes."

Neighbors of grapes. Very often the question arises of what can be planted and what cannot be planted near a grape bush. The Austrian scientist Lenz Moser studied this issue in detail. He compiled a classification of friends and antagonists of grapes. It is given below, in parentheses the health score for grapes is indicated.

Neighbors of grapes. Plants useful for grapes

• sour sorrel (+53)
• sowing peas (+45)
• celandine great (+37)
• yellow mustard (+28)
• onion (+28)
• garden radish (+25)
• chard (+25)
• pansies (+24)
• cauliflower (+23)
• radish (+22)
• vegetable spinach (+22)
• beetroot (+22)
• alfalfa (+18)
• melon (+14)
• strawberry (+14)
• carrots (+13)
• cucumber (+13)
• dill (+5)
• white cabbage (+5)
• common bush beans (+2)
• watercress (+2)
• poppy sleeping pills (+1).

Neighbors of grapes. Plants that are neutral to grapes (usefulness score - 0)

• fennel
• garlic
• kohlrabi
• pumpkin
• creeping clover.

Neighbors of grapes. Plants slightly harmful to grapes

• eggplant (-2)
• St. John's wort (-3)
• shepherd's purse (-3)
• parsley (-6)
• sweet clover (-12)
• physalis (-12)
• meadow clover (-12)
• potatoes (-13)
• pepper (-13)
• thyme (-15)
• celery (-18)
• common caraway (-18)
• fragrant chamomile (-19)
• wood lice (-20).

What can not be planted next to?

Planting garlic is undesirable to place next to:

1. Legumes (peanuts, soybeans, peas, lentils, beans, and beans).Under the influence of garlic, they will grow poorly, develop slowly and bear rather meager fruits.
2. Onions grown for greens.
3. Spicy herbs (mint, basil and coriander). The essential oils secreted by these plants, when they enter the soil, are drawn into the root system by the growing garlic and significantly slow down its growth and development of bulbs.