How to plant a tree correctly (apple, pear, plum)

When is it better to plant pears - in spring or autumn

The optimal time for planting pears in Russian garden plots is in the fall. In the spring, you can also do planting work, but the survival rate and growth rate of the seedling will significantly decrease. There are a number of reasons why the autumn planting of pears is considered more preferable:

• during the dormant period, all the forces of this fruit tree are aimed at building up the root mass, so in the spring it will start to grow without any stops in development. It has been proven that pear seedlings planted in autumn are 3 weeks ahead of specimens planted in spring;
• increasing the winter hardiness of the tree;
• the soil and air are well warmed up, so the rooting period passes quickly;
• the quality of the seedlings sold in autumn is high: the root system is well developed, the grafting (if any) has already grown together;
• the price of pear seedlings in autumn is several times lower than in spring.

What a good seedling looks like

If you buy a plant with ACS in the fall, it should be sniffed
, that is, devoid of leaves. The operation of scrubbing according to the rules is carried out in the nursery before the digging of these seedlings.

If you are planting a plant with ZKS, then smoothening is not required, since you do not actually transplant the plant, but transfer it without disturbing the root ball. You carefully remove it from the container (sometimes it is even better to cut the container) and, without disturbing the root system, plant it in a prepared hole.

Naturally, the acquired plants should not show signs of damage and - the seedling should be healthy, at least externally.

When to plant pears in autumn

In order for the planted pear to have time to take root and gain a foothold in the ground, as well as prepare for the coming winter, it is necessary to choose the correct planting dates. In general, the culture is planted no later than 2 ... 3 weeks before the onset of the first frost. More exact dates depend on the climatic zone in which the summer cottage is located, and on the recommendations of the lunar calendar of the gardener and the gardener.

In outskirts of Moscow

In the conditions of the Moscow region, depending on the weather forecast, pear planting can begin at the end of September. Planting work is completed in mid-late October. In the time remaining before the arrival of the first frost, the fruit trees have time to properly root in the ground.

In the Urals, in Siberia

In these cold regions, the autumn planting of a pear is most justified, since if it takes root and endures its first winter on the site without losses, then an adult tree will have increased winter hardiness. In the Urals and Siberia, due to the short autumn and the rapidly approaching frost, pears are planted from early September to early October.

In the Leningrad region

The Leningrad Region is characterized by unpredictable climatic conditions, so it is important to closely monitor the weather forecast in the region. Pears are planted at the end of September - mid-October, and it is necessary to provide protection from cold through winds.

Lunar calendar

If, when planting fruit trees, take into account the recommendations of the lunar calendar of the gardener and gardener, then you need to pay attention to the most favorable days for work, and also take into account the prohibited days on which it is not recommended to plant anything.Favorable days for planting pears in 2020 fall on:

• 1, 5 ... 6, 18 ... 19, 27 ... 30 September;
• October 2 ... 3, 25 ... 26.

• Full Moon - September 25, October 24;
• New Moon - September 9, October 9.

Experienced gardeners, when planting any crops, are guided by both weather reports and the instructions of the lunar calendar and choose the most suitable date.

Can a pear be grafted onto an apple tree?

Introduction

Grafting one tree onto another can serve several purposes. It:

• Experiments to improve the quality of the fruit;
• The ability to replace small or tasteless fruits of your tree with more desirable, high-grade;
• Rational use of the area of ​​the garden plot when it is small;
• Tree treatment, renewal;
• Creation of fruit platter on one root.

And it also makes it possible, having a developed stock and a healthy scion stalk, get a fruiting new plant in a short time.

Pear and apple, referring to pome fruit trees, make it possible to graft one on the other.

Important! It is necessary to observe the timing of the grafting, as well as the characteristics of the stock, as this will affect the yield, the size of the tree and its crown.

The wrong choice of vaccination time, temperature regime, as well as inappropriate weather conditions on a given day can lead to vaccine rejection.

Can a pear be grafted onto an apple tree?

There are positive examples of vaccination these heterogeneous trees. They develop and bear fruit safely.

Successful practice of grafting a pear onto an apple tree.

But it also happens that with the successful passage of the first stage of vaccination, in the future the grafted branch can be oppressed and then rejected.

The vaccination site can also grow... This is because the compatibility of the rootstock and the scion is not complete.

Experienced gardeners solve this problem in different ways.

One is vaccination (next spring) a young shoot that has grown on a scion over the summer, on another branch of the same rootstock. This young shoot, which has already grown on the rootstock juices, becomes more compatible with it. And rejection no longer occurs.

The second method is called intercalary insertion. - another link is grafted between the stock and the scion. Such an insert of a fruit plant is an intermediate tier between the stock and the scion. It is part of the stem of another rootstock, a cutting that affects the whole plant and the compatibility of the rootstock and the scion.

How to plant a pear correctly - step by step guide

Before you start planting pears, you need to choose a place suitable for this thermophilic culture. The main requirements for cultivation are good sun exposure from all sides and the absence of through cold winds, so the pear is planted on the southern side of the site.

Before digging a planting hole, it is necessary to provide for another important factor - there should not be any tall trees in the vicinity, which will subsequently shade the pear, compete for nutrients and come into contact with its crown.

Pit preparation

Taking into account the root system of the pear seedling, which during the first years will consume all the necessary nutrients from the mixture laid in the pit during planting, its dimensions will be 60 cm in depth and 1 m in diameter. The steep walls of the pit will provide the desired shrinkage of the earth after disembarkation. When planting, you will need the top layer of soil discarded during the digging of the seat, and the earth removed from the lower layers will not be useful.

The pit is filled with a nutrient mixture. To prepare it, you need to add mineral fertilizers to 6 liters of compost: 30 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate. In no case should nitrogen-containing fertilizers be applied to the planting pit.In order for a special microclimate to form inside the substrate, and chemicals do not burn the young pear roots, they prepare the planting pit in advance - in late spring - early summer.

Landing

Planting a pear seedling takes place in stages. Below is a detailed instruction for planting a fruit tree at a summer cottage.

1. Inside the pit, you need to form a small mound, after which it is plentifully spilled and waiting for the water to settle.
2. The seedling must be prepared for planting: if it has an open root system, and it has dried out a little, the pear is placed in water for 12 ... 24 hours.
3. It may require the help of another person to install the seedling in the planting hole. Then one will hold the pear by the trunk strictly vertically, and the second will place the root system in the ground.
4. The roots of the seedling are straightened with the utmost care and allowed along the slopes of the mound in the pit. You can start burying a seedling only after making sure that its root collar is 5 cm above the ground.
5. After installing the pear, its roots begin to bury, neatly, but rather tightly, tamping the ground so that no air voids remain.
6. After planting, the trunk of the tree is tied with a soft cloth to a peg.
7. It is necessary to make a hole around the pear so that the water does not flow down the sides when watering, but goes directly to the roots. Post-plant watering should be abundant - 2 ... 3 buckets of water are poured onto one young seedling.
8. The pear planting is completed by mulching the trunk circle. Sawdust, peat can be used as mulch. Mulching prevents premature evaporation of moisture from the soil.

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There are two diametrically opposite opinions about pruning a pear seedling during planting.

1. Some argue that it takes a lot of effort for a plant to heal the wound at the cut site to prepare for winter.
2. Others suggest that pruning a one-year-old pear seedling stimulates root build-up.

After weighing all the pros and cons, each gardener determines for himself whether he needs to shorten the top of the seedling or not.

Correct autumn planting of pears will ensure its good survival rate, rapid development and high yields in a few years.

If groundwater is close

A special problem when planting a pear can be close to the groundwater surface. It will not be possible to grow a crop on such plots without the use of special agrotechnical methods.

• In order to reduce the level of groundwater, it is possible to organize a diversion ditch, drain the area, and dig a small lake in the lowest area of ​​the cottage. The method of artificially lowering the water level is very laborious and expensive.
• You can plant a pear on a hill. For this, a hill is formed from the imported land. Slate can be placed at the bottom of the pit, which will prevent the root system from deepening into the soil and force it to branch horizontally.

The main sign that the root system has reached the groundwater is the drying of the tops of the pear.

Soil preparation

Particular attention should be paid to the preliminary preparation of the pit for planting. It depends on how the seedling will take root, how quickly it will develop, when it begins to bear fruit, and how long the tree itself will live. The pit sizes are different. Much depends on the composition of the soil. If you have good soil on the site, loose black soil, then a hole with a diameter of 70-80 cm and a depth of a little more than half a meter is enough. It is recommended to add coarse river sand or perlite to too fat, dense, viscous soil, the dimensions of the pit in this case can remain practically the same. But if there is soil on your site poor, clayey or sandy, then the pit will have to be made much larger, and humus, peat, rotted manure or black soil should be added to the soil. It is very good to mix ash and a little dolomite flour into this mixture. This is done so that the young plant has enough nutrients for development, so that it grows healthy and strong, and subsequently pleases with its yield.

On heavy clay soils The bottom of the pit must be loosened with strong blows with a bayonet shovel or a crowbar to a depth of 10-15 cm, and on top of this loosened clay it is advisable to put drainage, mix slightly, and only after that you can add the rest of the soil.

Consider the type of soil when preparing your pit. For example, for heavy clay soil at the bottom of the pit, drainage must be done.

When digging a hole, it is advisable to separate the top layer of the earth from the deeper one, consisting of clay (sand), and put the earth on the bottom of the hole with a mound. Then, in the center of the pit, place, holding, a seedling, gently spread the roots, distributing them evenly on the sides of the mound and sprinkle with fertile soil.

As the planting hole is filled with earth, it is advisable to slightly pull up the seedling by 1-3 cm several times, this will help to distribute the nutrient mixture more evenly, without voids. Having filled up the hole at 34, we water in a circle from a bucket so that the water is absorbed, but does not stagnate, and again we fill it with fertile soil or nutrient mixture. We form a hole along the edge of the planting pit. Again, pour at least 2 buckets of water, but not at the root, but into this hole. We are waiting for the water to be absorbed and lightly sprinkle the hole with earth. In general, one tree takes at least 3-4 buckets of water per planting.

When planting, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar of the seedling is at a height of 4-5 cm after the final watering, because too deep planting can greatly harm the plant. If the seedling is crooked, then you can step lightly with your foot from the opposite curvature of the side - this will correct the planting defect. Sometimes an additional support is required - a peg. It must be installed simultaneously with the planting of the tree, and not stuck in at the end, so as not to damage the delicate roots.

A properly planted seedling grows quickly, and lives for a long time, delighting with quick fruiting and a bountiful harvest later. After all, a well-developed root system is important for this, namely, it is laid literally from the first days after planting.

Care after landing

From the moment of planting the pear to the end of the summer season, there is still some time for which you need to have time to help the young tree adapt, take root and prepare for the winter. Caring for a young pear in the fall comes down to several activities:

• maintaining soil moisture - the roots should not dry out, but waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed, therefore, watering is carried out in accordance with precipitation;
• preventive treatment against pests and diseases, for which insecticides and fungicides are used;
• loosening the topsoil. This operation will provide the tree with oxygen - the earth will not be compacted too tightly in a snowy winter;
• weeding weeds, if they managed to appear in the area of ​​the trunk circle.

Preparing for winter

A young pear needs careful preparation for the first winter on the site. If there are already branches on it, they must be carefully gathered together and tied to a peg. It is very important to provide for the trunk shelter from frost breakers. To do this, it is wrapped with a covering material that allows air to pass through, or with pieces of cotton fabrics. If it is possible to come to the site in winter, then it is necessary to spud the tree with snow.

In winter, small rodents like to feast on the bark of young fruit trees, therefore, to organize protection against them, the pear trunk is wrapped with a fine mesh or treated with a deterrent mixture.

The simplest mixture can be prepared by mixing clay and mullein in equal proportions.The smell exuded from the treated wood will drive away the rodents. Another way to protect against them is spruce branches, which are laid out around the pear.

Garden Review

Summer in an orchard is a time of intensive growth and development of trees, harvest ripening and preparation for the new season, and in the conditions of central Russia, for the trials of a harsh winter.

The main work on the care of fruit crops can be formulated as follows:

• Watering
• Top dressing
• Protection against diseases and pests.

But behind this modest plan, there are many nuances, both for specific fruit crops, and in relation to the age of the plants. Today we will tell you how to care for fruit trees from 4 to 6 years old in the summer.

Apple trees and pears have a lot in common, because they are related, belonging to the pink family. Therefore, the calendar of work in the summer months is the same for them. Fruit trees 4-6 years old have either entered the fruiting period, or it is in this season that flower buds should be laid. And our task is to help them properly prepare for the next season.

Work calendar

June:

In dry weather, watering at the rate of 20 liters per 1 sq. M. near the trunk circle. Before and after watering, loosening the soil, after watering, mulching. Mow the grass in the near-trunk circles every 7-10 days.

Protection from pests, collection and destruction of larvae and caterpillars, spraying from aphids, treatment from scab, renewal of hunting belts.

Top dressing with nitrophoska solution and potassium humate.

Cutting dry branches, breaking out new tops and pinching annual shoots.

Bending or banding of non-fruiting branches.

July:

Loosening the soil in the near-trunk circles after each rain or watering. In the heat, watering is rare, but abundant, so that the entire area of ​​the trunk circle is deeply saturated with moisture.

Daily collection of volunteers.

Budding pears and apple trees.

August:

Ensure the ripening of annual shoots: stop watering, pinch the tops.

Collect carrion every morning.

Pick up ripe fruits in a timely manner, starting from the lower branches.

Take care of pinching wildly growing shoots so that they have time to ripen by winter

Top dressing

At the beginning of summer, a solution of manure (1: 6) or poultry droppings (1:12) is introduced into the holes along the perimeter of the crown at the rate of 10 liters per 1 sq. M. near the trunk circle.

Weakened trees that are badly damaged in winter or from pests are recommended to be fed in the summer with this solution twice with an interval of 14-20 days.

For fruit-bearing trees in July, top dressing with a high content of phosphorus and potassium is relevant:

Dissolve 20 g of dry potassium humate and 1 kg of nitrophosphate in 150 liters of water, add to the previously watered near-trunk circles at the rate of 15 liters per tree.

In August, after abundant watering, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied to the holes along the periphery of the crown projection. 150 g of superphosphate and 60 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq.m. area of ​​the trunk circle.

On drained peat soils with a lack of copper in July, at least 20 days before the harvest ripens, foliar dressing is carried out with a solution of copper sulfate: 1-2 g per 5 liters of water.

For apple trees and pears just beginning to bear fruit, it is important to correctly use micronutrient fertilization. The most convenient form is spraying with a solution of the Gumat + 7 preparation, which contains an optimal complex of microelements.

Wood ash is also good for microelement foliar dressing: pour 1 glass of ash with 2 liters of hot water, stir well, let stand for 2-3 hours, strain, bring the volume of the solution to 10 liters.

Such foliar feeding of apple trees is carried out during the entire period of fruit filling with an interval of 15 days and is stopped a month before harvesting.

For a 3-4-year-old apple or pear, 1.5 buckets of manure, 30 g of urea, 45 g of potassium chloride and 150 g of superphosphate are required. For 5-6-year-old trees, 2 buckets of manure, 40 g of urea, 60 g of potassium chloride and 200 g of superphosphate.

Steam, lawn or green manure?

A young garden is usually kept under steam so that no other plants compete for nutrients and moisture. But this does not mean that the trunk circles should be absolutely clean. From the end of May, you can regularly sow green manure crops, mow and embed them in the soil. This technique allows you to protect the near-trunk circles from weeds and desiccation, and the incorporation of mustard, phacelia, buckwheat or legumes into the soil enriches the kidney with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The main thing is to strictly follow the rules and terms of growing green manure.

The siderates have one more important quality: in the second half of summer they will get excess nitrogen from the soil, which will allow the apple trees and pears to properly prepare for winter.

Three years after the laying of the young garden, it is already possible to start sodding the near-stem circles. These can be grass grasses or varieties and types of small clover. It is important to remember that the root collar of the fruit should not be deepened as a result of turfing, but regular watering.

Pinching is better than pruning

From the beginning of the rapid growth of young shoots, you need to regularly inspect the fruit trees and break the tops, pinch the shoots that will thicken the crown. This is much better than cutting, because the growing shoot takes food, aphids and other pests are eaten in dense thickets, spores of dangerous mushrooms are rapidly growing. Well, physically, it is much easier to just break off a tender one-year shoot with your fingers or pinch the top. No tools are needed here.

The fattening shoots that appear on the trunk and skeletal branches are easily broken off in June by simply pressing the thumb. The wound is minimal, does not require protection with garden var, especially if it is done in dry warm weather.

At the ends of the branches, which were cut in autumn or spring, at best two buds woke up and started to grow. As long as the annual shoots are tender, you can effortlessly break off those that grow into the crown or will subsequently intersect with other shoots, as well as those growing at an acute angle to the wood. While holding the twig with one hand, use your fingers to press downward on the shoot at the base of the annual wood.

You don't have to break out an extra one-year-old shoot, but just pinch its top. This technique will stop the development of the shoot, it will begin to lignify and, most likely, a fruit will form on it, which will bear fruit. The main thing here is to understand that you need to pinch the shoots, competitors to the successor of the branch tip.

The pinching (pinching) of annual shoots is continued in August, but with a different purpose: it will allow annual shoots to mature better, which means that even a harsh winter can be well tolerated.

Protective complex

Many gardeners dream of how to protect trees from pests, diseases, stress with one spraying, and it would be good to feed them. Experience shows that, after all, one stroke of all problems does not kill. But there are several tank mixes that will protect apples and pears from many problems.

In the middle of summer, it is very useful to spray trees with such a tank mixture: 10 ml of Baikal, 2 ml of ekosil, 0.5 teaspoon of Humate + 7, 1 teaspoon of potassium monophosphate per 10 liters of water. And for better adhesion, add 20 g of liquid soap.

How to plant a pear in the fall: video

Planting apple and pear in autumn: video

Planting a pear is not difficult for people who have experience in planting fruit trees in their summer cottage. But beginner gardeners need to be extremely careful when carrying out autumn planting work and take into account many factors that affect the quality of pear planting.

Preparing a site for planting an apple tree or pear begins with its layout. In accordance with the planting plan, the distances between rows and trees are measured.

Secrets of autumn planting pears in the garden

Adding an article to a new collection

A pear, like an apple tree, can be planted in a permanent place both in spring and autumn. Find out how to do it right in the fall.

For the southern regions, where spring is early and stormy, autumn planting is preferable, since a pear is a moisture-loving plant, and its sap flow begins quite early, and it tolerates pruning more painfully than an apple tree. Therefore, during autumn planting, it is better not to cut off at all and not to form the crown of the tree, but leave it until spring.

Apple and pear planting technology

• On soils with normal moisture, planting pits with steep walls 80 cm in diameter, 50-60 cm deep are dug.If the site has been dug deeply beforehand, the diameter of the holes is reduced to 60-50 cm.The soil from different layers is not mixed, the soil of the humus layer is folded separately.
• A 120 cm long stake is driven into the bottom of the pit, to which the seedling will be tied.
• The prepared phosphorus and potash fertilizers are mixed with organic fertilizers and soil from the upper layer and the hole is filled 1 / 3-1 / 2 with this mixture.
• Then a mound is poured from the soil of the upper layer, on which the seedling is placed.
• The roots are covered with a top layer of earth.

It is more convenient to plant together: one person holds the seedling on the north side of the stake, straightens the roots; the other covers the pit with earth. When planting, the seedling is first shaken lightly so that the soil is more tightly attached to the roots, and then the soil is carefully but strongly trampled down, putting the foot in the direction of the radii.

Purity of the variety

Unfortunately, there is a global problem of overgrading in our fruit growing, which is associated with the low qualification of agronomic personnel. And, of course, a lot in this matter depends on the gardener himself - you need to be very responsible when choosing a nursery where you purchase planting material. I recommend contacting specifically to producers of planting material
, and not to nurseries that are engaged in outbidding, because only the first can guarantee the real grade.

Soil for planting

• If the root collar is buried in the soil, the tree will not grow well. Therefore, when planting, make sure that the root collar of the seedling is 2-3 cm above the soil level.
• If the planting hole is dug over the dug soil, the seedling is buried along the root collar, but so that the grafting site is not lower than 5-7 cm under the soil.When deeply buried, the scion may move to its own roots and the tree will lose the quality of the scion.
• After planting, a hole is made in the near-trunk circle, pouring a roller out of the ground, and the soil is watered abundantly (2-3 buckets of water). In this case, the soil is not only moistened, but also compacted. After the need for watering disappears, the soil under the tree is leveled and loosened. The stakes are cut a little below the first branch, the seedling is tied up with a "eight" to the stake.
• When planting on sandy soils, wider holes are dug, the soil is mixed with peat or compost.
• If the site is composed of clay soil, planting is done in trenches, no more than 50 cm deep. The bottom of the trench should have a slope towards the ditch. After installing the stakes, the nutrient mixture is poured along the entire trench, respectively, increasing the consumption of fertilizers or sprinkling them only at the tree planting site. The landing technique is the same as in the landing pits.
• On the site, which is located in a lowered place with periodic waterlogging of the soil, holes for a fruit tree are not dug. They just dig up the soil to the depth of the humus layer and apply fertilizers. The seedling is placed next to a stake dug into the ground and covered with soil from above.
• On high ramparts, if fertilizers were applied during their construction, trees are planted in holes dug according to the size of the root system. If the shafts are made of uncultivated soil, then it is better to dig trenches up to 40 cm deep along the ridge and lay there soil mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers.

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Basic landing rules

It is very important to choose the right place for the pear: sunny, but not very open, so that the tree does not suffer from dry winds or cold winter winds blowing away the protective snow cover. It should be remembered that this tree is quite large, and does not like transplanting and strong pruning.

The distance from one seedling to another should be such that the grown trees only slightly touch the crowns. For vigorous varieties, this distance should be at least 4 m, for less powerful varieties, 3 m is enough.Do not plant a pear close to buildings, this will make it difficult to care for it, and it is inconvenient to remove the crop from the roof, and rotting and mummified fruits remaining there will become a constant source of problems.

Make sure that there is sufficient distance between the seedlings.

Before planting, we carefully examine the seedling. We remove all dried roots, and then we immerse them in water for at least a few hours so that all the roots are covered. Immediately before planting, you can dip the lower part of the plant in a liquid clay mash, to which any root growth stimulant should be added, especially if the root system of the seedling leaves much to be desired.

Fertilization

When applying mineral fertilizers, it is necessary to ensure that they do not come into contact with the roots, since potassium in the plants that take root causes the death of the roots. The contact of the roots of the planted tree with nitrogen fertilizers is also dangerous, but, as a rule, these fertilizers are not applied during planting due to the fact that they are easily washed out of the soil and, moreover, they are not necessary in the first year after planting. As organic fertilizers, composts and rotted manure are used for planting.

Doses of fertilizing the planting pits:

The best apple varieties

They meet 5 important criteria: high-yielding, frost-resistant, not affected by scab, their fruits are large and very tasty.

Summer varieties of apple trees

Orlovim. Professional tasters estimate the taste of these apples at 4.5 points (out of 5 possible). The apples are very juicy, sweet and sour, with a rather strong aroma. Fruit weight 120 g. They ripen in the second half of August. Productivity up to 100 kg per tree.

The first apples appear in 3-4 years.

Orlovim

The variety has very high winter hardiness. Scab resistance is at the genetic level.

Early red. Early summer period of consumption. The tree is medium-sized, with a thin, round, compact crown. Fruits weighing 80 g, maximum 120 g, flattened, round and flat-round, smooth. The cover color is dark red, blurred with wide merging stripes. Subcutaneous dots are white, oblong, of medium size, clearly visible. The pulp is creamy, dense, juicy, with a medium aroma. The taste is good, sweet and sour. The annual yield is above average. The early maturity is average. Universal.

Early red

The beginning of ripening 7–8 days earlier than the fruits of the Papirovka variety.

Summer is red. Late summer consumption. The tree is weak, with a sparse pyramidal crown. Average fruit weight 180 g, one-dimensional, truncated-conical. The color is golden yellow with a red blush on 3/4 of the fruit. The pulp is creamy, fine-grained, tender, sour-sweet, with aroma. Fruit tasting score 4.8 points.

Melba. Late summer consumption. The trees are medium-sized, with a rounded crown. Fruits are of medium size, weighing 120–140 g, sometimes up to 300 g, round-conical, regular, smooth or slightly ribbed. The main color is light green, the integumentary color is in the form of an intense red striped blush, which occupies about half of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is snow-white, tender, juicy, with a strong candy aroma, excellent sweet and sour taste. Fruits are stored for 1–2 months.Winter hardiness is above average. Partially self-fertile. Fast-growing. Dessert.

Melba

Pouring white. Early summer period of consumption. The tree is medium-sized. The crown is round-spreading, dense. The type of fruiting is mixed. Fruits weighing 100–120 g, not aligned, rounded-conical, sometimes broadly ovate, slightly ribbed, often with a sharp longitudinal seam. The skin is smooth, thin, shiny, very aromatic, covered with a waxy coating. The main color is pale white, the integumentary color is absent, sometimes in the form of a dull tan. The pulp is white, fragrant, friable, fine-grained. The taste is pleasant, wine-sourish. The fruits do not ripen at the same time. Winter hardiness is very high. Freeze resistant. The early maturity is average. Universal, mainly dining.

Pouring white

Cigarette amber. Summer time of consumption. The tree is medium-sized with a rounded crown. Fruits are one-dimensional, round, with an average weight of 100 g. The color of the fruits is light yellow. The pulp is creamy, juicy, dense, fine-grained, of good taste. Tasting score 4.4 points.

Wonderful. The taste of 4.9 points is the highest rating among the ideal summer varieties! The pulp of apples is juicy, sweet and sour. Fruit weight 140-160 g, and sometimes up to 200 g. Ripen in August. Productivity 100 kg per tree. This is despite the fact that the apple tree is very low - no more than 2 m. The first harvest gives in the 3rd year after planting.

Winter hardiness is very high. Scab resistance is excellent.

Autumn varieties of apple trees

Oryol pioneer. Autumn consumption period. A medium-sized tree with a fast-growing, rounded crown. Very high winter hardiness, scab resistant. Fruits of medium and above average size, 135 g, maximum 170 g, juicy, sweet and sour taste, good. The main color is light yellow, the integumentary color is in the form of a blurred pink blush and red stripes. The yield is high. Immune to four of the five races of scab.

Welsey. Autumn consumption period. The tree is weakly growing with a spreading compact crown. Fruits are large, with an average weight of 160 g, round-oval, smooth. The main color in the phase of removable maturity is yellowish-green, in the phase of consumer maturity it is golden. Cover color at the period of removable maturity in the form of dark red stripes on a dirty red or main background. The pulp is white, tender, fine-grained, juicy, sour-sweet with a weak aroma. Tasting taste assessment 4.6 points.

Welsey

Rock. Taste 4.8 points - the most delicious of autumn apples! The pulp is tender, sweet and sour, with a slight aroma. Fruit weight 290 g - the largest in this group of varieties! Ripen in the first half of September. Stored until mid-November. Productivity up to 40 kg per tree. The first apples can be tasted for 5-6 years.

Rock

Winter hardiness is incredible - even 40 ° C of frost does not care for the Rock! Scab resistance is at the genetic level.

Uspenskoe. Taste 4.6 points. The apples are juicy, tender, with a weak aroma. The taste is sweet and sour. Fruit weight 160-200 g. They ripen in September and remain until November. Productivity 30-40 kg per tree. Begins to bear fruit in the 5th year.

Winter hardiness is very high - it can withstand frost up to 40 ° C. Scab resistance is at the genetic level.

Winter varieties of apple trees

Belarusian sweet. Taste 4.6 points. The pulp is sweet, very tender, with a weak aroma. Fruit weight 135-200 g. The apples ripen in October. Stored until February. The yield is 30–35 kg per tree. The first fruits appear in 2-3 years.

Winter hardiness is excellent - trees can withstand frosts down to -36 ° С without any problems. Scab resistance is at the genetic level.

Bryansk. Taste 4.8 points. Fruit weight 150-300 g - the largest of all winter varieties! Apples ripen in October. Stored until February. The yield is 40-50 kg per tree. The first harvest gives 3-4 years.

Winter hardiness is excellent. Scab resistance is at the genetic level and several genes are responsible for it at once.

Blagovest. Winter consumption period.The tree is vigorous. Fruits are medium, weighing 160-190 g, one-dimensional, round in shape, slightly flattened. The color is greenish-yellow with a crimson blurred blush on the larger surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellowish, of medium density, tender, fine-grained, juicy. Sour-sweet taste with medium aroma. Tasting taste assessment 4.5 points. Drought tolerance is average. Begins fruiting in the 5th year. Fruiting is regular. The fruit consumption period is September - January.

Blagovest

Bolotovskoe. Winter consumption period. Trees are above average. Fruits weighing 170 g. Fruit skin is oily, dull, without wax bloom. The main color of the fruit is greenish-yellow, whitish-yellow in the period of consumer maturity. The integumentary color on a significant part of the fruit is in the form of a red blush, consisting of stripes and specks. The pulp of the fruit is greenish, dense, juicy, sweet and sour taste. The variety is fruitful. Immune to scab.

Rozhdestvenskoe. Winter consumption period. The tree is medium-sized, fast-growing with a broad-pyramidal thin crown. Fruits are round-conical, medium one-dimensionality. The color is greenish-yellow with a blurred red blush and cherry-colored specks. The pulp is white, creamy, dense, prickly, tender, very juicy, sweet and sour, with a weak aroma. Tasting score 4.3 points. Winter hardiness at the level of Antonovka ordinary. The variety is immune to fruit and leaf scab.

Lobo. Winter consumption period. Tall tree. The crown is wide-rounded, rare. Fruiting on ringlets, as well as on fruit twigs. Fruits of medium and above average size, weighing 130 g, maximum - 200 g, from flat-round to flat-round conical shape, slightly ribbed. The skin is smooth, shiny, dense, with a gray waxy bloom. The main color is yellowish-green, almost completely covered with a striped, blurred marble-like, elegant, crimson-red blush. The subcutaneous points are numerous, large, white, clearly visible over the entire surface of the fetus. The pulp is white, tender, juicy, fine-grained. The taste is very good, sweet and sour. The fruits are stored for 4 months. The yield is annual. Dining room.

How taste is assessed

The taste of apples is evaluated by professional tasters - they try each new variety and give points from 1 to 5. This is the so-called tasting score. According to it, all apples are divided into 5 groups: inedible - up to 3 points; mediocre - 3–3.7 points; good - 3.8–4.3 points; very good - 4.4–4.7 points; excellent - 4.8–5.0 points.

Planting dates for fruit trees

Fruit trees are planted in autumn no later than mid-October and in spring - late April - early May. At first, crops that are more demanding to the growing conditions are planted - a pear, and then an apple tree.

• To preserve the trees planted in autumn, it is necessary to insulate the roots, tie the crowns, and protect the bole from hares and mice.
• If the seedlings purchased in the fall could not be planted, then they are buried in, laying one by one in an inclined position (at an angle of 45 °) into a ditch 50-60 cm wide and about 50 cm deep.
• So that the seedlings are not damaged by sunburn, they are laid with roots to the north, crowns to the south.
• The roots and 1/3 of the trunk are covered with earth, the soil is compacted and watered in dry weather.
• The area where the seedlings are dug should not be waterlogged. To do this, grooves are dug around it to drain excess water. Poisoned baits are laid out against the mice.
• In the spring, as early as possible, dug-in trees are planted in the designated place to avoid podoprevanie bark.

First wintering success

It is important to help overwinter young plants that have just been planted. Need to mulch the trunk circle
, and wrap the plant itself from rodents with nylon material. You can also cut strips of white non-woven fabric yourself and wrap them around the barrel like bandages. Do this after the leaves fall.
You need to wrap the seedling completely
, all the way to the top, and tight. It is breathable material that is used for this - I will emphasize again. It is protection against, plus protection against winter drying.

Additionally, it can be applied to the nonwoven fabric. We tried it in our kennel - it really works. The remedy is sold in veterinary pharmacies and is intended for the treatment of animal diseases. And thanks to its strong smell, it also repels mice.

Correct winding of the trunk of a young seedling.

If there threat of damage to fruit seedlings by hares

, only the fence around the perimeter of the site and the nets around the trunks will be saved (they are sold in stores). That is, in addition, an individual fence must be erected around each tree.

Also desirable. It is recommended to whitewash young seedlings with slaked lime, and not with ready-made acrylic paint, which is sold in stores. This paint is only suitable for mature plants. Slaked lime will do less harm to the tender bark of young seedlings. It is necessary to whiten as high as possible, and it is even better to cover with lime not only the trunk but also the bases of the skeletal branches.

The tree is ready for winter: the trunk is whitewashed, the trunk circle is mulched.

All the talk about the fact that, due to whitewashing, plants stop breathing and die, have no foundation. All our life we ​​have whitewashed, we will whitewash and we will whitewash. It is necessary
for the prevention of sunburn
... Although, in principle, barrel winding and whitewashing are interchangeable measures. If you have already wrapped the barrel, then whitewashing is not required. Then I recommend removing the winding in the spring in cloudy weather, so that the plants are not suddenly exposed to the sun.

In the spring, when the shelter was removed, you need to immediately spend formative

Planting material and work with it

Amateur gardeners usually tend to get older seedlings, believing that they will begin to bear fruit faster. However, this does not take into account the fact that the older the plant, the more damaged its root system is when it is excavated.

Pay attention when buying: Nurseries produce 1-2 year old seedlings. When buying, you should pay attention not only or even not so much to the aerial part, but to the root system, and give preference to those seedlings in which the roots are more developed. A strong, powerful one-year-old is more valuable than a two-year-old with a well-developed aerial part and a weak root system.

• The root system is the foundation of the plant, and the survival rate and the time of entry into fruiting depend on its development. A plant with a badly damaged or simply weak root system will hurt for a long time, it is difficult to take root and, accordingly, will not soon please the first harvest.
• Two years later, one-year-olds and two-year-olds, planted at the same time, practically equalize with growth and at the same time enter fruiting.
• Strong, well-developed one-year-olds should be preferred if a flat crown formation system is planned. For many artificial crown formation systems, planting with annuals is mandatory.
• Since the root system of seedlings on clonal rootstocks is small and finely branched, it is important to prevent it from drying out, as the dried roots become very fragile.
• After digging the seedling, the supply of water to the aboveground part stops, while the leaves continue to evaporate moisture. Desiccation can lead to the death of the seedling. Therefore, the removal of the leaves from it must precede the digging of the seedling.
• Transportation, subsequent storage or planting of leafy seedlings is not permitted.

Terms of pear vaccination

There is an opinion that the time of vaccination is not so important, the main thing is that there are kidneys that develop. Other gardeners prefer springtime.

Grafting a pear on an apple tree in spring

Spring vaccination is still carried out before the juices start moving or during the period of their active movement. The bark at this time is well separated. And the survival rate is practically close to 100.

By the time of flowering this process should already be completed. As a result, the vaccination time must be chosen taking into account the fluctuations in air temperature during the day and night. The grafted shoots are sensitive to a significant drop in temperature and may die if the temperature fluctuates significantly.

There should be no sudden changes in temperature, and even less frost.

Important! There is a direct relationship between night temperatures and the survival rate of pear vaccination: the warmer the night during the vaccination period, the better the result.

Cuttings for spring grafting can be prepared in advance. (tentatively from November). Store them at a temperature of no more than 4 degrees, in a damp place.

How to graft a pear to an apple tree in the summer?

Vaccinations are also practiced in the summer. The time for this is in June, early July. But nonetheless vaccinations should not be carried out at the end of summer.

The grafted stalk can protect from the scorching sun cover made of non-woven fabric.

In September - late September, the top leaves of the grafted plant should be pinched off to allow the plant to ripen well before winter.

In autumn

There is information about vaccinations in the fall. But the autumn weather is characterized by greater variability, significant temperature drops are already possible, up to the first frost at night, which can lead to the death of the scion.

Vaccination rates at this time are very low. Therefore, this time is not recommended.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Before planting, seedlings must be carefully inspected. Broken, decayed, dried or soaked parts of the roots are removed by cutting to healthy tissue. The cut should be straight. It is necessary to update the cuts on the roots only if they rot. Cut the roots with a very sharp knife. When using a blunt knife, the cut turns out to be soaked and its overgrowth is very slow, the roots often rot.

If the seedling dries up, it should be immersed in water for a day. With a strong degree of drying, which is determined by the shriveled bark of the stem and shoots, the seedling is completely immersed in water for 1-2 days, periodically changing it. The plant is kept in water until the bark returns to its original appearance (healthy bark is smooth, shiny). Otherwise, the seedling is not suitable for planting.

Correct planting of the apple tree. How to choose an apple tree for planting?

The first step is to decide on the variety. Plants should be selected zoned to the climate of a particular area. It is best to make your purchase at specialized points of sale, which provide complete information about the plants and sell quality specimens that can be carefully inspected.

Did you know? Previously, apples were all round-shaped fruits.

The second selection criterion is the degree of growth of the culture.

Distinguish:

• columnar - the height of adult plants is from 150 to 200 cm;

  

• medium-sized - height 3-4 m;

  

• vigorous - height up to 12 m.

  

Here you need to focus on the size of your own site. When choosing plants, it is worth considering that most varieties will need pollinating apple trees with a similar flowering period to increase yields. This means that you have to plant at least 2 trees.

If a distance of 1.5–2 m is allowed between columnar varieties, then vigorous and medium-sized varieties will require much more space. The "step" between such plants is 3-5 m.

In addition to the above, it is worth deciding on the purpose of using the products obtained.

So, with respect to the timing of ripening, they are distinguished:

• summer - ripen from the middle - end of July to the end of August, the fruits are poorly stored and are more suitable for fresh consumption or quick processing;
• autumn - ripen in August - end of September, stored for about 3-4 months, in use - universal;
• winter - they are removed from trees in September - October, but they reach consumer maturity after 1-2 months of storage, and the total shelf life is from 6 to 12 months.

Autumn and winter varieties of apples tolerate transportation well, which allows them to be used in commercial activities. After taking into account all the criteria necessary for choosing a seedling, you can proceed to the acquisition of planting material. The most suitable specimens are one-, two-year-old plants.

They have a higher survival rate than older apple trees. When choosing them, more attention should be paid to examining the root, stem and graft site. The root must be at least 30 cm long and consist of several main and a large number of additional roots. The color of the root system is light gray, without blotches and signs of rot.

If the plant is one year old, then it will not have lateral branches. In biennial sprouts - up to 5 skeletal branches, about 30 cm long. The stem itself and the shoots should be colored evenly, without tubercles, blotches of a darker color. The inoculation site is located 5 cm above the central root. It looks like a small bend with a healed wound or hemp from the rootstock. If this place looks different, it is better to skip the purchase.

Important! In a seedling, the main thing is a healthy root system, the quality of the stem is not so important. It is better to buy a seedling with a large root and a small aerial part than vice versa.

Seedlings can be offered with open or closed root systems. Open-rooted plants are dug up before being sold and, after purchase, packaged for shipping. The advantage of such an acquisition is the ability to thoroughly inspect the underground part.

But, planting trees will need to be carried out as soon as possible, so it is better to buy them immediately before planting. Closed-root plants are sold in the containers in which they were grown.

The downside of buying is the inability to thoroughly examine the root. But such plants can be planted at any time convenient for the buyer.

Landing technique

The landing technique is not difficult, but it requires adherence to a number of rules.

• Exposure to the air of the root system of seedlings should be minimized. Even in autumn, exposure of exposed roots to the air leads to their drying out and a decrease in vitality.
• Immediately before planting, it is good to dip the root system in a soil-clay mash (1 part clay, 2 parts mullein, 5-7 parts water). The auxins present in the manure stimulate the formation and growth of roots. As a last resort, you can prepare a simple nutritious chatter by pouring loose nutrient soil into a large bucket or into a small hole dug in the soil and diluting it with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. A liquid soil solution applied to the root system will ensure good contact with the soil in the planting pit, which is very important for the planted plant.
• To activate the process of restoration of the root system and its growth, it is possible to add root growth regulators - heteroauxin (2 tablets per 10 liters of talker) to the soil talker. If growth substances were not added to the chatterbox, then by dissolving them in water, you can water the planted plants 2-3 times in the spring (up to 1.5 buckets per tree).

Read also: How to store a pumping station in the winter in the country

In this article, we will describe in detail the shape of the structure of the fruit tree on pr.

Apple and pear are varied in strength of growth, time of entry into fruit.

Probably, it is difficult to find an amateur garden in which at least one has not grown.

The apple tree is a mandatory attribute of any garden plot, but it may not.

Often, the apple tree is one of the first "settlers" on ours.

In household plots, it is planted along paths or fences on races.

Caterpillars are yellowish-white with black b.

Planting work can be carried out in autumn and spring.

A source of plant nutrition and increased fertility.

In this article we will describe in detail the shape of the structure of the square.

Powdery mildew, white and black spots, rusty.

After you've harvested all of your crop and stored it, it's time to start planting trees. Fruit trees and shrubs are planted at this time of the year, for several reasons, if you plant frost-resistant trees in the black soil, otherwise, such work is best done in spring. So, what are the advantages of autumn planting of apple and pear, why it is at this time of the year that such work is often carried out, and how to do it correctly, you will learn further from our article.

At what distance to plant columnar pears. Columnar pear: varieties and care of seedlings

To grow a beautiful garden in which you can eat an apple, a pear, or a cherry, and arrange an outdoor dinner with your family is the dream of many owners of private houses. Most often, they try to plant at least one representative of each type of fruit trees, so that a variety of species and their varieties will delight even the most sophisticated gourmets.

The columnar pear is a bonsai. They are grafted or seed. The former are obtained by grafting individual branches to an already growing dwarf. And seed trees are already trees that are grown naturally. Such pears are less resistant to bad weather conditions, but in terms of fruit quality they are not inferior to seedlings. The most successful grafting will be if you use quince or irga as a rootstock for a seedling. Such a columnar pear blooms in its second year after vaccination. These trees are very fertile, but unfortunately only live 7-10 years. If the tree itself is not cut off at the right time, then it can grow up to 2.5 m in height. The appearance of grafted fruit is slightly different from the usual in that the trunk is more massive, the branches begin lower, grow in different directions, and the harvest can be expected to be much more abundant than that of simple pears. Of course, this is subject to proper and constant care.

The pear is columnar. Varieties

Decora has large reddish fruits with a strong sweet-sour smell. They begin to ripen at the end of summer. You won't be able to store them for a long time, but the fall will lie quietly.

A columnar pear of the "sapphire" variety can lie safe until the New Year holidays. In appearance, its fruits are yellow-green with a "blush", very juicy and have a pleasant aroma.

"Yakovleva's Favorite", "Tenderness", "Autumn Dream", "Severyanka", "Firefly" and many others - all these are columnar pears for the Moscow region, the most successful breeding varieties that have taken root well in this region.

Fruit tree care

Actually, no special skills are required here. It is important in the year of planting, if the tree has bloomed, remove these flowers. This will enable it to take root well (firmly), without wasting energy on feeding the fruit. The next year, fruits should already begin to appear on the pear, only there will be very few of them (up to 5 pieces). Don't be discouraged, this is quite normal. Each time (year) there will be more tasty juicy and aromatic fruits. It is imperative to “thin out” them during the flowering period, that is, of all the flowers in a bunch, leave only two. This will allow the tree to grow large pears for you without overloading the branches themselves.

In order for your trees not to be spoiled by various pests, it is enough to sow dill, marigold flowers, lemon balm in the garden. The columnar pear responds very well to care and does not tolerate chemical treatments, so preventing the appearance of parasites in an ecological way is what it needs. There are enough varieties of this beauty to choose the right one for your site. All fruits are very juicy and tasty - no one will remain indifferent! Plant it in your garden and let your plot be beautiful!

Planting fruit trees in autumn:

The main advantages of planting fruit trees in autumn are quite evident: Suitable temperature conditions, sufficient moisture, lack of scorching sun rays, and prices for tree seedlings in autumn are usually much lower than at the end of winter or spring. But there is one condition that must be met so that the trees do not die, they must be planted about 15 days before the onset of frost, so check with folk calendars and weather forecast before deciding plant an apple or pear in the fall.

Apple tree ranetka planting in autumn.

Pear varieties are a treasure, planting in the fall.

For planting, we chose just such varieties of apple and pear, the autumn ripening period, we have biennial seedlings, with a closed root system. Let's now talk about the timing of planting an apple tree. It is planted from mid-September to mid-October, if you live in the northern regions, then the dates need to be shifted by half a month back.

Where to plant fruit trees on the site?

With this sorted out, now we need to choose a place for planting apple and pear in the fall. We need to choose a sunny, open place, make sure that there is no close groundwater occurrence nearby. Keep in mind that the distance between two new seedlings should be at least five meters from each other, as well as from various hedges, buildings and other things, it should also be more than five meters.

After you have decided on the landing site, we need to dig a planting hole, its size should be as follows: depth 65 cm, width 60 cm.

How to fertilize fruit trees in autumn.

Before planting, we recommend making a soil mixture for the hole so that the trees take up well and begin to grow.

For this we need:

• Excavated earth;
• Humus bucket;
• 100 grams of superphosphate;
• 100 grams of potash fertilizers;

We mix all this and fertilizers for planting fruit trees are ready.

If you are interested in how to fertilize already fruiting trees in the autumn, we recommend that you check out the following video, everything is described and shown in detail there.

And we will continue to dismantle our seedlings, after we have made the mixture, we also recommend making a drainage system for young fruit trees.

For this we need:

The layer of such drainage stones should be about 15 centimeters.

Planting apple and pear

• First of all, we fill the drainage into the pit.

• Then we send the soil mixture into the pit, each layer should be about 15-20 centimeters.
• In order for the layer of the mixture to settle, we need to water the hole with a hose, and let it stand for about 20 minutes.

• Now we plant the seedlings themselves. Pay attention to the fact that the root collar, which is located between the beginning of root growth and the grafting, must be above ground level. If you have it a little lower, then add some mixture.

If everything is ok, remove the bag from the seedling and start filling it with soil mixture.

• When you have buried the hole, pour plenty of water over it.

• And again we fall asleep with the soil mixture that you still have left.

• Tamp well with your feet.

That's all, rules for planting apple and pear in autumn are the same, so feel free to repeat this procedure with the second seedling. On this we say goodbye to you, we hope you have gathered a lot of useful information from our article, not only about planting, but also about fertilizing fruit trees in the fall, until we meet again on our website, the farmer without hassle and excellent harvests for you!

What to look for when buying a tree for planting on the site

Choose seedlings with a closed root system, that is, when the roots are enveloped by the earth, while it is held by the roots. Be careful, as the soil can spill out of the roots when shaken. The survival rate of such plants with proper planting is almost one hundred percent. Do not buy a seedling with bare roots, it may not take root, although of course if there is no alternative, then you can take a chance. When choosing a seedling with bare roots, pay attention to the condition of the roots, they should not be chopped, dried, and should be elastic. Plants grown in containers can theoretically be planted at any time of the year.