Why raspberry leaves turn red and their treatment: 6 reasons

Care errors

When the color of the leaves of an orchid changes, first of all, they check compliance with the rules of care. So, under the influence of direct sunlight, burns appear, which are characterized by reddening of the leaves. This is because the sheet produces a protective red pigment to prevent burns.

For reference! With sunburn, yellow spots may appear on the leaves.

The orchid is shaded from direct sunlight by blinds, a sheet of paper. The sun is especially dangerous in spring, when the orchid is no longer artificially illuminated, but exposed to the sun. In such a transitional period, the window should be shaded, for example, with tulle. The orchid is fed to strengthen the immune system. Lack of phosphorus is also one of the possible reasons for the acquisition of red leaves.

For reference! The orchid is rearranged to another place if tissue death follows the color change. This signals a burn. However, if the leaves do not curl, do not lose turgor, the plant blooms, then this is a natural color.

Before the actual burn appears, the leaves are dark red to inky black. It is most often found on Cattleya, which are prone to red pigmentation of the leaves. There are varieties that do not bloom without prior darkening of the leaves. In this case, a color change indicates sufficient lighting.

In insufficient light, the leaves stretch out, becoming light green. The orchid is weakening. This state of the plant is ideal for the emergence of pests and diseases.

Diseases

One of the symptoms fungal diseases the leaves may acquire a reddish-brown hue. The difference from an ultraviolet burn is the presence of small specks that combine over time to form large spots.

Anthracnose Is a disease caused by a fungus. It manifests itself with increased air humidity and the accumulation of fluid in the axils of the leaves. Examine the lower part of the leaf, shoots for spots. They will have a dry, often cracked core, and a clearly visible border around the edges. The color of the border will be dark pink and lilac. The disease sometimes affects pseudobulbs. Over time, the spots increase, become depressed, a yellowish or pinkish bloom appears.

Brown rot is characterized by dark brown spots, but depending on the original color of the leaves, the spots may have a red tint. The affected areas soften and die off. If the lesions are minor, the orchid can be helped. Otherwise, it remains to discard the plant.

Main reasons

If the usual color of your pet's foliage begins to change, the low air temperature may be to blame. Although the plant loves warmth, the temperature within the range of + 21 ... + 25 ° C is comfortable for it. Already when the indicator +18 ° C approaches, the freezing process starts: the leaves become reddish at the edges, and later they will necessarily crumble. If the pot is located on a cold windowsill, you will need to find another place for it.

The next reason is often too much sunlight. Intense lighting has a detrimental effect on the color of the foliage and the health of the entire plant.It will not be possible to save the leaves scorched by ultraviolet light, but in the future it is better to remove the flower away from the midday rays. Lack of light is also harmful - because of it, the leaves can become small and brittle.

Sometimes the reddening of the foliage around the edges is a signal that your pet lacks nutrients. Experts and experienced flower growers know that the situation can be saved by the introduction of trace elements such as nitrogen and magnesium. To help the plant, you will need to regularly remove damaged leaves and apply top dressing.

The color of the foliage can become atypical due to the appearance of diseases. They are caused by sharp temperature drops, as well as high humidity. Fungal pathogens not only weaken the roots, but also reduce the immunity of the entire culture. There is a disease "black leg", which is characterized by rotting of the stem. For treatment, you will need to change the soil and plant a new plant.

There are also frequent cases of the appearance of gray mold due to excessive compaction of the earth and poor-quality drainage. At the beginning of the disease, brownish and red-orange spots appear on the trunk, later it changes color and foliage. The growth of culture is slowing down, it is threatened with complete wilting. You will need to water it with a fungicide.

Sometimes the flower is overcome by brown spot or powdery mildew. For treatment, it is advised to remove damaged leaves, and treat the healthy part with an antifungal agent. If the plant is attacked by ticks, aphids or whiteflies, a solution of laundry soap and tobacco is effective against them.

How to treat bloating?

Bulges on the currants indicate the defeat of the shrub by gall aphids. As a result of the attack of insects, swellings (galls) in the form of brown growths are formed on the leaves.

There are many ways to deal with bumps on red currant leaves:

• mechanical;
• biological products;
• folk remedies;
• chemical insecticides.

If the damage to the plant is insignificant, folk remedies and the mechanical method can be used (washing off aphids with water from a hose). This method is the simplest, but its application guarantees the death of aphids up to 70%.

For spraying currants, concentrated solutions of soda, ammonia are used. You can also cut off damaged shoots and leaves and then burn them.

When gentle methods do not work, chemicals of various hazard classes are used:

• Bitoxibacillin;
• Spark BIO;
• Aktofit;
• Fitoverm;
• Tobacco dust.

Important! After processing the plant with folk or biological means, the fruits can be consumed in a few days.

Disease and pest control

General rules for the control of diseases and pests of the apple tree include the following points:

1. Treatment with anti-annoying insects. Among the popular insecticides are Fufanon, Nitrafen, Pirimiks, etc. The procedure is carried out in the spring. The air temperature should be about 4 ... 6 degrees Celsius. The preparations are dissolved in water. You need to act according to the instructions. Spraying is carried out using a special sprinkler. It is important to completely cultivate the apple tree and the ground under it.
2. The use of remedies that cure diseases of the apple tree. The most versatile: colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate solution. Infectious drying is recommended to be treated with copper oxychloride. Bacteriosis is treated with Cumulus, Tiovit Jet. To defeat the apple scab disease, Ordan and Broneks are used. This disease is afraid of urea. It is applied in the form of a solution to the crown and trunk of a tree. Fruit rot will go away if you spray the apple tree with the fungicides Horus, Kurzat, VDG.
3. If the tree is severely affected by the disease, and the struggle does not bring the desired results, then it is better for the gardener to remove the apple tree. So you can save other plantings and eliminate the disease completely. The apple tree is cut. The branches are burned. The earth is disinfected with a solution of copper or iron sulfate.
4. During the fight against diseases and pests, you cannot stop caring for the apple tree. It is watered, fed, cut in a timely manner. So the apple tree will have the strength to fight ailments.

Pests

On the lack of nutrients the orchid reacts by reddening the leaves. However, the reason may lie in the presence of pests, which, by damaging the roots, stem and leaves, prevent nutrients from reaching the plant cells from the substrate.

The presence of a spider mite is manifested by a silvery bloom on the back of the leaf plate. The color gradually changes to reddish brown. A spider mite enters the room and settles on orchids from an open window, and is introduced with potted indoor roses. The pest loves dry warm air.

An atypical, but possible symptom of the appearance of the scabbard is small red dotted spots that change color to brown or black.

Nutrient Deficiency

Flower nutrition problems can arise from soil conductivity or high pH levels. Outwardly, signs of a lack of any elements will appear only after 2-6 weeks.... What nutrition the flower will receive is influenced by the quality, quality and method of watering, as well as the shape of the pot.

IMPORTANT: Nitrogen starvation immediately affects the lower leaves, red pigmentation appears on them, and the edges are curled down. If the situation is not corrected in time, this disease will go to the trunk and cause its lignification.

The lack of phosphorus will first become noticeable on the reverse parts of the leaf plate (they will be covered with red spots), and then it will move to the upper part. Over time, the spots on the geranium leaves will turn brown and the leaves dry.

Zinc deficiency affects the shape of the leaves, pink and orange pigmentation appears on them... How to deal with this? Start feeding the geraniums with fertilizers. But do not overdo it, otherwise you will get the opposite result. In this difficult task, it is important to find a middle ground.

Yellowing

This signals the following:

• There is little room for the roots in the pot. The lack of space inhibits the development of geraniums and leads to yellowing and further shedding of leaves.
• Cool air or drafts. Most often, flowers on the windowsill suffer from this. Some flower growers prefer to winterize their pets. To do this, you need to cut the leaves yourself, reduce the frequency of watering and reduce the air temperature to about 14 degrees above zero.
• Watering is done rarely, but very abundantly. It is better to water more often, but in small portions, and only when the top layer of the earth becomes dry.
• Excess fertilizer, especially nitrogen. In winter, it is better to feed geraniums as little as possible.

Read more about why geranium leaves turn yellow and dry at the edges and how to deal with it here, and from this article you will learn about how to feed and water geraniums to avoid yellowing of foliage.

What plants are affected by rust?

Determining that the plant was affected by rust is quite simple. The first sign is the appearance of red oval pads on the surface of the sheet. At later stages, they merge, turning into rusty stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off ahead of time.

These spots or stripes are most often located on the underside of leaf blades, slightly less often they are found on leaf petioles or stems. Sometimes light yellow spots appear on the upper side of the leaves.

The development of this disease leads to increased evaporation of moisture from the surface of the leaves, which is why they dry out and fall off.

Rust affects a wide variety of plants, including vegetables, flowers, spices, fruits, berries, and cereals.Most often, rust can be seen on apple and pear, currants, gooseberries, irga, honeysuckle and raspberries, on all cereals without exception (rye, wheat, barley, oats, millet and others), as well as on onions, asparagus, garlic, cucumber , table beets, carrots.

What to do if the leaves turn red

There are varieties of orchids with red shades of leaves: Ludisia, Phalaenopsis Schiller. In this case, red is natural and you don't need to do anything.

In order to avoid burns, scattered lighting is organized, the pot, if possible, is placed on the western window. Some types of orchids are exposed to direct sun in the morning and evening hours, when the sun's rays are not aggressive.

If the reddening of the leaves is caused by pests or diseases, chemical preparations are used. Processing is carried out on the balcony or on the street, using personal protective equipment: mask and gloves. After the procedure, wash your face and hands thoroughly.

Treatment of diseases

If there is a suspicion of the presence of diseases and / or pests, the orchid is isolated from other indoor flowers. The plant is carefully removed from the flowerpot, the roots are immersed in lukewarm water. With the help of tweezers or with your hands, pieces of bark and other components of the substrate are removed from the roots. Further, the rotted parts of the orchid are cut off with sterile instruments, the cuts are sprinkled with cinnamon, activated or charcoal.

Note! Do not use alcohol-containing preparations for processing sections: you will burn the roots.

Further, drugs are used. Against rot and anthracnose apply:

1. «Quadris". The agent, penetrating into the plant, fights infection. It takes effect one hour after spraying the orchid. The drug in an amount of 1 ml is diluted in 2 liters of water.

Advice! If the plant was not isolated on time and there are fears of contamination of other indoor pets, all flowers are processed.

1. «Acrobat"Is a prophylactic and therapeutic agent against fungal diseases. 4 grams of the drug are diluted in 1 liter of water. Apply no more than 3 times with an interval of 10-14 days.
2. «Pure bloom"Is a concentrated emulsion. For 2-2.5 liters of water, 1 ml of the drug is taken. The orchid is sprayed.
3. «Actellic»Fights pests, including ticks. The leaves are sprayed with a solution of 1 ml of the product in 1 liter of water.
4. Apollo... Effective against ticks and laid eggs. Practically non-toxic. The treatment is carried out with a solution of 1 ml of the product per 1 liter of water.
5. «Aktara»Helps in the fight against the scabbard. Highly toxic. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 ml of the drug.
6. «BI - 58"- a combined preparation for the scabbard. For 1 liter of water, take 1 ml of the product.

Important! When treating anthracnose, treatment with a systemic fungicide is required. This guarantees the neutralization of fungi deep in the tissues.

After all the procedures, the plant is transplanted into a new pot, the soil is changed. The container for the orchid is taken transparent, with smooth walls. Drainage holes are required. In almost all varieties of orchids, the roots are involved in photosynthesis, so access to light is necessary to them. The volume of the pot is selected according to the size of the root system. The plant is not left a lot of freedom, the flower loves a close room. The soil is used special for orchids. Collect it yourself, or purchase it in the store. Watering after recovery is reduced, the orchid is not fed.

Getting rid of pests

For spider mites, acaricides or insectoacaricides are used. The orchid is transferred to the street or balcony, sprayed with a solution. Gloves and a mask are used, people and pets are removed from the room. A plastic bag is put on the plant, left for several days. During the day, a homemade greenhouse is aired for 10-15 minutes. Processing is carried out with an interval of 3-5 days, at least 3 times.

Note! The spider mite is dangerous because it feeds on plant sap and is the cause of bacterial, fungal and viral infections.

Scales and false scutes parasitize on the branches or trunks of the plant, live on the back of the leaf. It feeds on orchid juice, releasing a sticky substance on which a sooty mushroom is formed. The fungus spreads through the plant, clogging up the pores, thus making it difficult for the orchid to breathe. The plant withers, its condition worsens.

A sign of the appearance of a scale insect is sticky spots on the leaves. Females lay well-protected eggs. Young individuals spread throughout the orchid, feed on plant juices and look for an attachment site. As a result, the orchid turns yellow, the leaves fall off.

Nuances of leaf redness

In order for the plant to bear fruit regularly, it is necessary to care for it throughout the growing season.

Why strawberry leaves turn red during fruiting

During the ripening of the fruit, most of the nutrients are expended on the growth of the berries, so the leaves are susceptible to infection. Watering should be avoided during this period, as this can lead to the development of fungus or rot on the plant. In order not to overmoisten the soil, it is recommended to use about 19 liters of water for every 2.4 meters of plants.

The lower leaves turn red

Phosphorus is responsible for cell division and tissue formation in strawberries. In addition, the mineral promotes good root development and greater fruiting. In cold conditions, the lower leaves become orange in color.

Phosphorus is a fairly mobile element in plants, so symptoms of its deficiency are more often observed on older leaves. The mineral moves into new leaves when there is a shortage, so the older ones begin to turn red.

Maintaining a pH around 6.5 will promote optimal phosphorus uptake.

Old leaves turn red, dry out and die off in autumn

Redness of strawberries in autumn is a natural process. However, with improper care, they begin to gradually die off. Redness can be caused by several reasons, which most often boil down to improper handling of the plant.

One of the main problems that most novice gardeners face is incorrect planting, the following common mistakes are often made:

1. Strawberries don't like shade, but exposed sunlight can burn the leaves.
2. The distance between the bushes should be at least 25-30 centimeters. Otherwise, they will shade each other, thereby causing the plant to wilt.
3. Withering can be caused by insufficient watering. Strawberries should be watered as the soil dries, using 10-12 liters of water per square meter of planting.
4. With a lack of manganese, abscission begins. Deficiency of this element also causes chlorosis.
5. Late blight wilting. Reddening of the root is a characteristic feature. At first, only the lower leaves dry out, but then late blight spreads to the entire bush. The most common reason for the drying out of the aboveground part of strawberries is the lack of timely watering on hot days.

Flower transplant

Consider how to transplant room geranium:

1. When replanting a plant, it is necessary to control its roots for the presence of rottenness, remove the spoiled ones.
2. The inflorescences will need to be removed during transplantation.
3. Place the natural mineral Vermiculite in the center of the new pot, add soil on top of it, compact.
4. Rearrange the geranium in a dark place and do not water for a couple of days.
5. After a day, treat geranium leaves with Zircon.
6. After 7 days, geraniums can be lifted onto the windowsill on the east side of the room.
7. 14 days after transplanting, the plant is fed with a substance to improve the soil and flower growth (Kemir), and then do not fertilize for three months.

Important! It is not recommended to replant the plant in winter. From March to autumn, geraniums can be kept in the garden: they can be transferred directly in pots or planted in open soil.Up to fifteen years old, geraniums can do without a transplant.

Preventive measures

So that geranium leaves do not turn red, you should pay attention to the main points in its cultivation and maintenance:

• Transplant young seedlings (up to 3 years old) every year, and also carry out periodic transplanting of adult bushes (once every 3 years).
• Plant geraniums in a pot that is optimal in volume, where the root system will not be too loose.
• With the onset of winter, reduce watering and fertilization (dormant period).
• During flowering, apply fertilizers based on phosphorus and potassium to the soil 1 time within 14 days.
• Pinch and prune the bush in the spring, in the fall, cutting off all the spoiled and unhealthy branches.
• Use top dressing two or three months after transplanting.

As you can see, it is better to prevent the redness of the leaves of room geranium than to engage in long-term treatment, plant restoration.

Experts say that geranium is resistant to many pathologies, and it can also fight certain pests on its own. But you still need to carry out preventive measures with a flower. To do this, it is necessary to adhere to the optimal temperature regime, implement the correct lighting for the plant, maintain normal air humidity, constantly water and feed the flower.

In addition, you do not need to place pelargonium too close to other flowers. The distance between the pots must be at least 5 cm. In order to avoid the formation of diseases in the plant, it must be periodically examined.

For more details see here:

Prophylaxis

The first rule to prevent problems with an orchid and other indoor plants: the newly purchased flower is placed on quarantine... For a period of 1 month, the plant pot is isolated from other flowers. The first 2 days the orchid is placed in a cool, dark place. This prevents excessive stress. At the end of the quarantine, the plant is transplanted into a fresh substrate. The pot is left the same (if it meets the above characteristics), but sterilized before filling with new soil.

Note! When transporting an orchid in cold and / or windy weather, the plant must be carefully packed in cellophane, paper, which is not removed for 1-2 hours after delivery to its destination. This is done to reduce stress and the risk of hypothermia.

Preventive measures are to create favorable conditions for the growth and development of the orchid in accordance with its variety. The location is western. If it is not possible to place a flower on the western window, then:

1. On the north side, the orchid needs artificial lighting. Daylight hours for all varieties should be at least 10 hours.
2. On the south window, the flower must be shaded.

To strengthen the immune system, plants are treated with purchased preparations and homemade products. From home solutions, garlic water, succinic acid have good reviews. To prepare the solution, take 1 clove of garlic, chop it, fill it with 1 liter of cold water and insist in a warm place for 24 hours. To enhance the effect, 1 tablet of succinic acid is added to the solution, which is previously dissolved in hot water. Mineral fertilizers are also applied.

Note! A healthy plant does not need feeding. Fertilize a weakened orchid that has survived the disease. The plant is fed during the period of active vegetative growth, in the first week after flowering. Before feeding, the flower is watered so as not to burn the roots.

For the prevention of brown rot and anthracosis, biological fungicides are used: Mikosan, Fitosporin, Alirin and Gamair, Trichodermin. In addition, it is recommended to process the flower with copper sulfate once a month.Avoid mechanical damage to roots, leaves, buds, into which infection, fungus can penetrate. If the substrate was collected in nature, it is calcined before use. Often bark, moss brought from the street contains fungi and insects.

To avoid rot and anthracnose, the orchid is watered only when the soil is completely dry. A wooden stick is used to check the condition of the substrate. It is placed at a depth of 2-3 cm. Then they take it out and see if it is dry or wet. Water when the stick is dry.

Important! Self-collected soil components are sterilized at elevated temperatures, since anthracnose withstands negative ones.

When watering, orchids avoid getting water on the flowers and buds. The axils of the leaves are blotted with a dry napkin, the pot is left in the bathroom to drain excess liquid.

To prevent the appearance of spider mites, the air must be periodically humidified. Humidifiers are used, a container with water or wet expanded clay is placed next to the orchid. The plant is watered with a warm shower, sprayed regularly. Orchids love fresh air, but ticks don't. Therefore, it is important to conduct regular airing, while protecting the orchid from drafts.

Important! If the elements of the substrate were collected in nature, they are sterilized at high temperatures. An oven is used for this purpose. The bark can be boiled, left to dry completely, and soaked for 2 days before use.

To prevent the appearance of pests and diseases, the plant is periodically inspected. Pay attention to the roots (it is good if the pot is transparent and the root system is visible). Examine the axils of the leaves, their reverse side. If there are even minor deviations, action should be taken. Often the plant cannot be saved due to the fact that the disease has developed too much.

Preventive measures

Any disease is much easier to prevent than to cure. And in order for geranium leaves not to turn red, it is necessary:

• choose the right pot. It should not be overly large or small. And during the growth of room geraniums, one should not forget about annual transplants;
• in winter, the plant should be provided with a dormant period;
• carry out pinching and trimming in the summer and spring;
• monitor the balance of nutrients;
• during flowering, regularly use fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus;
• in the spring and summer, fertilize the soil once a week.

In summer, the plant can be taken out onto the street or balcony - this will be an excellent prevention of fungal infection.

grow-

How to save a plant

Gardeners recommend, when changing the color of seedlings or heads of cabbage, immediately carry out additional root feeding of the beds. In the growing season, organic fertilizers saturated with nitrogen and phosphorus are used. The following recipes are used:

1. Mullein or bird droppings. In the faith of water, 1 liter of fertilizer is diluted, a half-liter jar of solution is poured under each plant.
2. Mineral fertilizers. In a bucket of water, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium are diluted. The solution is poured under each bush, 0.5 liters.
3. Wood ash. To prepare a recipe for 10 liters of water, add 1 kg of the product, mix and stand for three days. After the finished solution is boiled, cooled and watered abundantly on each bush.

Experienced gardeners recommend using nitrogen-rich products: ammonium nitrate or Ammophos.

Remember that feeding with organic matter is not necessary on rainy days. Abundant rainfall wash away all the nutrients into the lower layers of the soil, where cabbage roots do not reach. Therefore, during the growing season after rain, it is recommended to pour limestone, ash or manure under each bush. In cold weather, the beds are covered with foil.

See also Treatment and protection of cabbage from slugs and snails