How to choose a soil for Phalaenopsis orchid and other flower varieties? The best lineups

Orchids are becoming more and more popular and available now. Many hybrids with unique colors emerge. This plant is now one of the best-selling plants in the whole world. The popularity of potted plants is constantly growing. Soil for orchids, composition and its properties, watering, conditions of detention - all this creates a wide field of activity for experimentation and immersion in the fascinating world of orchids.
Remarkable is the fact that with good care, orchids can bloom almost continuously - up to 2 times a year, and the flower can last up to 6 months. Sometimes, when cropping flowers, you can see 1 or 2 peduncles appearing.

In nature, it uses part of the aerial roots to hold onto trees or rocks, and part of them hangs freely in the air. In this way, the orchid provides itself with nutrition, using all its organs in the process of photosynthesis. She, like any plant, needs sunlight, water, oxygen. In the conditions of apartments, the plant receives the necessary nutrients from the substrate.

In nature, orchids derive their nourishment from decaying plant debris in rock crevices and tree bark. Therefore, bark, moss and other natural materials are used as a substrate. At home, it is necessary to reproduce the environment in which the orchid does well in nature.

Why is it important to plant in the best substrate?

To choose the right soil, you should understand how it differs from soil or soil, for example:

• Land Is a loose mineral coating with all life on the planet.
• The soil - It is a fertile component of the earth with sediments from plant and animal organisms. It is a natural place for plant growth.

• 
  Priming - it is both a mineral natural component of the earth, and artificially created for horticulture. It contains a lot of organic matter that is beneficial for plants.

  Read also:  Episode: home care, reproduction and transplant
• Substrate - an artificial nutrient medium for seedlings, in which there may be no soil. Literally - this is lat. sub - under and stratum - layer - base, litter (e.g. bark, peat). The main task is to supply the plant with nutrients. Thanks to the substrate, the plant receives air.

In reality, these concepts are confused in flower shops. Purchased substrate may contain soil... Ordinary soil for phalaenopsis is not suitable, since the plant does not need land.

Based on the conditions of his growth at home, he only needs a place to fix the roots. Often, the plant simply wraps its roots around the tree and receives moisture from under the bark.

How to choose the right composition for you?

Phalaenopsis does not need land, it cannot grow in ordinary soil. He needs a place to be rooted. In his homeland, these are trees. Twisting around the trunk, the flower gets its food from under the bark.

The mixture in which the plant is grown is called the substrate. For the correct selection of the composition of the substrate, it is necessary to focus on the climate, lighting conditions, humidity and temperature in which the plant is used to living.

The composition and structure of the components must correspond to the size and characteristics of the flower, the size of the container, etc. Good growth and lush flowering will depend on the correct selection.It often includes the following components:

• oak or pine bark;
• peat;
• vermiculite;
• perlite;
• coniferous cones;
• sphagnum moss;
• charcoal;
• fern roots;
• coconut fiber, etc.

Most a popular substrate component used as a base is pine bark... It has excellent aeration and moisture holding capacity. Many specialty stores offer ready-mixed blends. But flower growers often prepare them on their own. Requirements for the substrate:

• ease;
• looseness;
• easy air penetration;
• moisture capacity.

When choosing the composition of the substrate on your own, it must be remembered that artificial components have drawbacks that can affect the health of the flower. Polymers under the influence of light, air and water gradually decompose, and as a result styrene is formed, which damages the flower through the roots.

Most of the hybrid forms of phalaenopsis have adapted to the traditional composition of the substrate. But the full disclosure of species characteristics occurs when the home conditions of growth and care are as close as possible to their natural habitat. And the main task of the soil is to create the resistance of the plant as in its native environment. Therefore, it is important to observe the specific proportions and composition of the components.

Self-cooking

Novice orchid growers exclusively purchase ready-made orchid substrate from garden stores. But experienced gardeners who have been cultivating flowers for more than one year, believe that it is better to prepare the soil yourself. Moreover, self-prepared substrate has a number of advantages:

• low cost;
• proven quality of components;
• simple execution;
• individual selection of components corresponding to the grade;
• drawing up the required proportions.

You can read more about what is better, ready-made or self-prepared substrate, as well as about the composition of the soil, here.

Processing before use

Before immersing the orchid in the prepared substrate, all components must first undergo disinfection. This is especially true for tree bark. It often serves as a habitat for bacteria and harmful microorganisms.

There are several ways to disinfect the harvested bark:

• boil;
• pour over with boiling water;
• burn in the oven.

After heat treatment, the bark is soaked in cold water and then completely dried.

The presence of moss in a container with a plant serves as a kind of protection against the development of pathogenic microflora, since it is a natural antiseptic.

Phalaenopsis can be grown in a variety of substrates. The main thing is to provide the plant with all the necessary conditions for healthy growth and development. The primer must be purchased from reliable manufacturers or made by yourself. Understanding what each component is used for and how it can affect the life of the flower, the orchid will thank the owner with long flowering and health.

Mandatory and additional soil components

The general criteria for choosing a potting mix for indoor orchids are the same. The soil must have the following qualities:

1. breathability;
2. looseness;
3. ease;
4. lack of toxic properties;
5. have good drainage properties;
6. optimal acidity.

In addition, the substrate is renewed every three years, therefore it must be enriched with mineral trace elements. Pine bark, moss, wood ash, fern roots are integral components of the soil mixture for exotic plants. It is this composition of natural materials that is considered the basis for the preparation of the substrate.

Also additional components are added to the main ingredients, no less important, among them:

• 
  walnut shell;

• coconut fiber;
• parts of pine cones;
• humus;
• peat;
• deciduous and coniferous land;
• dry leaves.

Inorganic substances:

1. expanded clay granules;
2. perlite;
3. vermiculite;
4. polystyrene;
5. mineral wool;
6. foam rubber;
7. gravel.

These materials are used as drainage.

The use of components

Each individual element has its own benefits for the houseplant.

Pine bark

The most common soil base element for orchids. The ingredient is included in almost all types of soil mixtures intended for growing orchids.

At home, pine bark plays the role of a symbiotic culture, with which epiphytes that grow in the wild in symbiosis with trees come into association.

The fragments should be whole and dense, without damage and mold, without signs of rottenness. The optimal size is up to 3 cm.

When harvesting with your own hands, the material is collected from old felled pines or stumps. In rare cases, coniferous organics are replaced by oak or birch. Before use, pine bark is subjected to heat treatment to reduce the toxic effects of resins and remove harmful insects.

Oak bark

Favorable for the orchid is the relationship with the oak bark by analogy with the symbiosis with pine. This natural material also requires preliminary heat treatment to remove tannins before being incorporated into the substrate.

Charcoal

Combustion product is added up to 5% of the total volume of the substrate in order to increase air exchange and moisture absorption. Charcoal prevents waterlogging, maintains the required ph-acidity and serves as an antiseptic that protects the roots from decay.

The optimal size of pieces of coal is up to 2 cm.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay chips are used to organize drainage. The porous structure of expanded clay absorbs excess moisture well, not allowing decay processes to begin.

However, it should be used with caution: the pores accumulate salts, which negatively affect the health of the orchid roots. Also, if the regularity of watering is violated, dried expanded clay will take water from the plant.

Moss

Sphagnum is widely used by flower growers in soil mixtures when growing orchids, helping to grow the roots of weakened flowers. It is highly hygroscopic, absorbing harmful salts from hard irrigation water.

Natural organic matter contains many nutrients useful for plants, and the natural bactericidal component included in the chemical composition protects the root system from bacterial and fungal diseases.

Moss retains moisture

It will be possible to water the plant much less often: the moisture capacity of sphagnum allows it to absorb moisture in a volume 20 times its own weight.

Peat

It is quite often found in mixtures for rooting orchids.

We will apply the uppermost layer of peat, which has an increased moisture capacity and is capable of retaining useful components from the incoming dressings.

It has good air permeability and makes the substrate loose, saturated with oxygen, which is important for capricious orchid roots.

When using peat, it should be borne in mind that it acidifies the soil, therefore acidity neutralizers are added to the soil mixture together with it: wood ash or dolomite flour (10 g per 10 kg).

Others

• Coconut fiber and chips. Natural organic matter with a spongy structure and high useful properties, which is not inferior in quality to sphagnum peat. The natural material serves as a good desiccant, regulates the moisture level in the flower pot and provides even moisture to the roots. Its advantage is the lack of caking, which allows you to successfully grow orchids on blocks without changing for up to 7-8 years.
• Styrofoam and foam glass. It can replace expanded clay when organizing drainage and maintains the stability of the flower in the container. Its advantage is good air permeability.
• Vermiculite and perlite.Applicable to increase soil looseness. Prevents caking and drying out. They serve as regulators of water-air balance, protecting the mixture from salting and neutralizing acidity. Used to organize drainage.
• Activated carbon. It is added for disinfection purposes when treating the root system.
• Cork fiber. Natural cork acts as a substitute for sphagnum or coconut flakes. It is rarely found on sale, therefore it is not popular with flower growers.
• Coniferous cones. Only pine flakes are applicable. They are not used in one piece, because with a change in humidity, the structure begins to change - it opens or, conversely, closes, creating a risk of damage to the roots.
• Humus. Apply in mini doses to enhance flowering. Overripe deciduous soil is a favorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic microorganisms and harmful insects, therefore, it must be disinfected before use.
• Fern rhizomes. Osmunda roots with a fibrous structure replace the base of the substrate to increase air exchange and as an additional source of nutrition. However, in free retail sale organic matter is available to a limited extent, more often you can buy it only in bulk.

Preparation of ingredients

Consider how to prepare the soil with your own hands. Organic constituents for soil mix are easy to find in nature... At the same time, you don't need to go far, everything is around us.

1. Pine bark. It is a basic ingredient that can be easily found in the pine forest, on felled trees. It is better to take bark with a minimum resin content. Always dry. The bark of birch, spruce, oak is also suitable.
2. Moss sphagnum. They are also harvested in the forests, in the spring, after the snow has completely melted. Moss appears in lowlands where melt water stagnates. Possesses bactericidal, moisture-absorbing properties. Used fresh and dry.
3. Fern rootswhich contain many useful substances and trace elements. They grow in woodland areas.
4. Charcoal it is easy to find small logs of any tree species in the ashes or burn at the stake. This component acts as an antiseptic and sorbent.
5. Cones and earth. In coniferous forests, it is easy to find fallen, dry cones. Their scales are used to prepare a substrate, they can replace pine bark. Fertile soil is extracted only under the layer of needles.
6. Foliage and deciduous soil. Sometimes dry foliage is added to the substrate for some varieties of orchids. The leaves create a unique microflora in the pot, thereby protecting the plant from diseases and mold. They can be found along with the ground in deciduous forests.

Not all components from the above list can be found in the natural environment. Artificial materials should be purchased at specialized stores.

• 
  Expanded clay granules. The substance is light, porous, inexpensive, and environmentally friendly. It can be used as a drainage or as a main component. Sold in building materials departments.

• Coconut chips, fibers. The components are bought in garden shops, they are separately packaged and pre-disinfected.
• Styrofoam. It is used as a soil loosening agent, as well as large fractions are used as drainage. The material is chemically inert, lightweight. You can buy it in hardware stores.
• Perlite, vermiculite, foam rubber, gravel - soil loosening components. Available in the same building materials departments.

What can be used for the substrate?

Osmunda fern roots

The unique composition of the fern makes it an ideal substrate component. It contains almost all the nutrients for an orchid.

Perlite

Natural material of volcanic origin. Free from impurity content. Does not harm plants. It is able to collect moisture and consume it in doses. Used as an addition to the substrate.

Humus

Deciduous humus is added in small doses. Its main danger is the content of pathogens and insects. Before adding to the substrate, it must be disinfected.

Pine cones

They are used, having previously divided into flakes, as an additive to the main substrate. Whole buds are uncomfortable due to their ability to open and close when humidity changes.

Natural cork fiber

Rare material. Usually used as a substitute for coconut or moss fiber.

Activated carbon

Disinfectant. The crushed tablet is poured over the slices and thus deal with problems in the root system. This is a common situation during plant transplantation.

Charcoal

It is often added to the composition, but not more than 5% of the total mass. Has the following beneficial properties:

• improves water and air permeability of the substrate;
• prevents acidification, increases pH;
• natural antiseptic;
• does not allow the soil to become waterlogged;
• prevents the development of putrefactive processes;
• absorbs harmful substances.

Over time, charcoal accumulates a lot of salt, which can negatively affect the plant. You need to take proven coal. It is best to burn birch logs yourself, and take coals as a component of the substrate.

Sphagnum moss

A frequent component of the substrate. It absorbs moisture well from the air and contains a lot of nutrients that are absent in the bark. The minimal microflora of moss does not allow the development of pathogenic bacteria.

Vermiculite

Its main advantage is the regulation of air-water balance. It absorbs more moisture than its own volume. Prevents drying out and clumping. Contains in the composition a sufficient amount of useful trace elements. Prevents salinity and acidity.

Styrofoam

It is used as a drainage and as an element of stability. Good air permeability.

Expanded clay

With the help of pores, it retains not only moisture well, but also salts that are part of the water for irrigation. Over time, their amount accumulates, the substrate becomes saline, and expanded clay ceases to accumulate moisture. Another disadvantage is that it draws moisture from the roots when it dries out.

Coconut fiber

It absorbs moisture well and regulates soil moisture. An organic component that surpasses peat in some characteristics. Does not cake or form lumps. Good air permeability.

Peat

Absorbs and retains nutrients. It has good moisture holding capacity and at the same time is able to retain a large amount of air. The main disadvantage is that it increases acidity. It must be neutralized with other components in the case of using peat.

Oak bark

Distributes moisture evenly and retains air. Contains many nutrients. Requires heat treatment before use to neutralize tanning properties.

Pine bark

The most common substrate component. It has all the properties so necessary for orchids - uniformity of moisture distribution and provides maximum air flow. Before using heat treatment must be carried out to neutralize harmful insects and resins.

It is harvested by removing the bark from a healthy fallen tree in a pine forest. The material must be dry and free from signs of pests. The bark should be easily peeled away from the trunk with the help of your hands.

Is it possible to make the correct composition at home or is it better to take the finished product?

Here you can do this:

1. Go to a specialized point of sale and buy a ready-made mixture for your variety.
2. Make it yourself. This will require pine bark, sphagnum, rotten leaves, coconut fibers and charcoal. All this is taken in equal proportions.

TIP: Which soil is better to choose - ready-made or made by hand? The easiest way is to buy a ready-made mixture and add humus to it.This approach allows you to successfully grow the plant for many years. But this case is no exception.

Watch a video about preparing soil for orchids with your own hands:

Orchid lovers may find the following articles useful:

• Can an orchid be planted in regular soil?
• Do you need drainage and which one is better to choose?
• How to grow an orchid without soil?

Useful video

We invite you to watch a video on the choice of soil for orchids:

If »you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.

Most types of indoor orchids are epiphytes. The roots of these plants do not sink into the ground, but are located on top of the branches and trunks of trees. In nature, Phalaenopsis have adapted to do without soil and receive nutrients from the water flowing down the bark of the tree.

In room culture, such plants are grown in special soil. The soil for Phalaenopsis orchids is fundamentally different from the soil for other indoor plants. It is devoid of soil and has special properties necessary to provide orchids with a comfortable living environment.

Variations in composition for different varieties

Reference! Representatives of orchids, which are grown at home, are divided into two groups: epiphytic and terrestrial. They differ not only in name, appearance, but also in the growing environment.

Accordingly, the plant substrate has a number of differences.

Epiphytic orchids include varieties:

1. 
   dendrobium;

2. cattleya;
3. lycasts;
4. phalaenopsis;
5. cambria;
6. zygopetalum;
7. masdevallia.

For such plants, the soil is important mainly to maintain an upright position, and then only for nutrition and obtaining life-giving moisture. Hence, epiphytes do not need land, a soilless substrate is enough... Mixing options:

• 1 part charcoal and 5 parts bark.
• 5 parts pine bark, 2 parts moss, ½ part wood ash, ½ part dry foliage.
• 2 parts sphagnum moss, 1 part ash and 5 parts bark chips.
• 3 parts bark, 3 parts cork, 1 part peat, 1 part moss, 1 part ash.

Terrestrial orchids: cymbidium and pafiopedilum, which require increased nutrition... The following soil components such as pine bark, wood ash, moss, peat are suitable for them. Mix recipes:

• 1 part of peat, pine bark, moss, expanded clay, ash.
• 2 parts of leafy soil and humus, 2 parts of fern roots, 1 part of peat and river white sand.
• 1 part of dry leaves, moss, sand, 2 parts of fern roots, 3 parts of leafy soil.
• 3 parts of leafy land, 1 part each of pine bark, peat, moss.

Ready mixes

The main requirement is that the prepared soil for orchids should not be a single lump, be loose and not contain dusty particles with a fine fraction and other impurities that provoke caking and compaction of the soil mixture.

For home growing of orchids, special formulations have been developed with different ingredients and prices.

Bark

The main part of substrates for orchids is presented pine bark... It is good for keeping the Vanda group of orchids, Cattleya, and some Phalaenopsis. It is also irreplaceable for people who sin with abundant watering. At first, it will simplify quite frequent watering, since the water simply slips off it.

The bark is very close to the natural growing conditions of orchids. And you can always prepare it yourself. You need to choose a tree so that the dead wood layer is thick enough - at least two centimeters. Then the separation of the bark will not cause any damage to the tree.

Pine bark can always be found in a park or forest. It is better to collect the bark in late autumn, since insects no longer live in it. Do not use bark rotten with larvae.

Cut the collected bark into different fractions with pruning shears. The smaller the pieces of bark, the better it retains moisture. The larger, the less effectively it holds it. You can use blanks - folded into paper bags, in which the bark will be stored for a very long time.

The finished bark, 15-20 mm in size, is convenient for planting phalaenopsis. For orchids cambria, miltonia and cymbidium, the bark is additionally crushed after boiling.

Dry leaves of oak, birch, etc. are well suited for the formation of the substrate. Leaves, rotting, provide additional nutrients to orchids. The leaves should be clean, without signs of rot and fungal infections. For use as an additive to the substrate, they should be chopped up with scissors.

If there is no bark, fallen trees, you can use ordinary spruce cones for the substrate, which must be broken.

Three ways to prepare the bark

• boil for 30 minutes,
• fry in the oven for half an hour,
• rinse with hot tap water.

Processing is aimed primarily at killing all living organisms in the bark. And also to prevent the development of rot, mold and mosses inside the pot.

It is necessary to put the bark in the pan in such a way that there is free space on top. The bark should all be boiled, for this it must be periodically immersed in water. After the bark has boiled, drain the water into the sink. Then spread out on a tray and let dry completely. After boiling, the bark becomes soft and can be broken by hand into smaller pieces for ease of use.

It is very important to thoroughly dry each element of the substrate. Otherwise, it will become covered with mold, and the roots will rot.

For frying, cover the baking sheet with foil so that the dripping resin does not stain the baking sheet. The bark should be spread out in one layer for better roasting. Under the influence of high temperature, moisture and microorganisms will leave the bark. It can also be easily broken into pieces. Pieces with resin residues should not be used, as resin is bad for orchid root growth. The easiest way is to rinse the bark under running hot water.In this case, the pests also die, and in the future the bark becomes suitable for use. It also needs to be thoroughly dried.

Other additives

Also, charcoal, sphagnum moss, root fertilizer, succinic acid and polystyrene are widely used as additives to the substrate.

1. Charcoal Is a very important component. Especially appreciated is its porosity property. It picks up excess moisture and gives it away when needed. Its disinfecting effect is also important. It is a unique source of potash fertilizers, which are essential for orchids. But the proportion of coal content should be insignificant - no more than a tenth of the total soil. Coal is both an antiseptic and a fertilizer. Grind the coal just a little. If there is no woody one, you can replace it with an activated package. Fill everything with hot water - 70-80C. This is enough to kill fungal spores and insects. Leave on for 30 minutes. Then add a little fertilizer and succinic acid to the mass, mix everything thoroughly.
2. Sphagnum moss - an excellent natural component. But it is best used when the room is very dry. It is necessary to create such conditions for orchids so that moisture does not leave the pot quickly. Lay it on top of the flowerpot. Green moss can also be found in a park or forest. The moss should be cleared of soil, washed at home and dried. Those plant inclusions that are present there - grass, twigs - are not recommended to be removed. They serve as an additional source of nutrients. As well as fallen leaves, which is a kind of organic fertilizer. Such land for orchids, in addition to useful properties, will look very beautiful in pots.
3. Another interesting element that can be seen in stores and in the recommendations of florists is Styrofoam... Yet this is an artificial material that is best used only as a filler. Mold forms on it, which negatively affects the growth and development of orchids.
4. Anything at hand can be used as a baking powder - perlite or expanded clay... If it is not possible to buy, you can use packing foam... Usually, pieces of it are placed on the bottom of the pot to improve drainage properties and prevent root rot when watering.

Mixtures of moss, bark and various leavening agents are very effective.

Popular brands

In modern stores, you can find a wide range of substrates of various brands. The products of individual manufacturers are deservedly popular and in demand from flower growers due to the optimal formulation of mixtures and good quality components.

"ZeoFlora"

"ZeoFlora" is a well-known trade mark, under which various types of soil mixtures, substrates and soil improvers are produced. As the main component in the composition of soils for orchids, this manufacturer uses zeolite-containing minerals, which actively absorb and retain moisture and nutrients in their structure. Thanks to these properties, the intervals between watering and dressing are increased. The substrate of this brand can be used both alone and in a mixture with other components.

And also it is used as a mulching material that maintains the required level of moisture in the pot.

"Orchiata"

Orchiata is a trade mark that produces high quality natural plant substrate. The main component of these products is specially processed New Zealand pine bark. According to the testimonials of flower growers, large (6-9 mm) porous fractions of pine bark hold water and nutrients well, and their rough surface allows the roots to easily attach and stay in the substrate. According to flower growers, the substrate of this brand is best suited for young orchids with a poorly developing root system.

Compo Sana

Compo Sana is a German brand that produces a nourishing moisture-resistant substrate for orchids. This product has a light airy structure that provides unhindered access of oxygen to the roots of exotic plants. The main ingredients of the substrate are pine bark fractions and peat.

EffectBio

EffectBio is a brand that produces a wide range of substrates and soil conditioners for orchids. The company offers various types of soil mixtures for exotics with fractions of large, medium and small sizes. The composition of the substrates is represented by environmentally friendly and natural components, the main of which is the bark of the Angara pine.

"Fasco"

Fasco is a trade mark representing a wide range of substrates and soil mixtures for exotic plants. The main component is crushed Angara pine bark, processed in a special way. As additional ingredients, the manufacturer uses high-quality peat, coal, expanded clay fractions.

"Seramis"

"Seramis" is a very popular trade mark, the products of which are highly valued by plant breeders. The brand offers orchid substrates made from lightweight porous granules of various sizes. Among the main components used by the manufacturer for the manufacture of substrates are declared: tree bark, branded clay granulate, complex organic and mineral fertilizers.

Basic rules for blanks

In order to save the family budget growers collect ingredients for the substrate and stocks for future use:

1. The moisture-consuming component - sphagnum moss grows in swampy areas. Used dry and wet. It is recommended to dry the moss in partial shade, pack it in separate bags and store in a dark place. Moss is kept wet in the freezer, in individual packages.
2. Coals from the fire should be collected, rinsed thoroughly and chopped to 3-4 cm. Powdered charcoal is used to disinfect plant slices. It is recommended to store in plastic bags in a cool place.
3. The pine bark must be dry, but not rotten. It is best to take the bark from a tree that has been cut down for less than 1 year. Using a pruning shears, chop to a size of 3-4 cm.
4. The fern is dug up in the spring before foliage forms or in late autumn when the leaves are already dry. The roots are well dried, cut into pieces. The material is stored in a dark place, in a sealed package.

Important! All ingredients collected in the forest for the future mixture must be sanitized. Cones, wood ash are poured over with boiling water, and then soaked in cool water. Fresh, pine bark is advised to warm up in the oven at a minimum temperature for no more than 5 minutes.

DIY soil preparation

Basically, prepare your own substrate not that difficult and does not require a lot of money or time.

Important! The bark is removed from a dead tree or in woodworking factories.

Possible formulation options

Option 1:

• Pine bark - 50%;
• Polyfoam - 15-20%;
• Expanded clay - 15-20%;
• Sphagnum peat - 10%;
• Charcoal - 5%.

Option 2:

• Bark - 95%;
• Charcoal - 5%.

The most common composition.

Option 3:

• Bark - 5 parts;
• Moss - sphagnum - 2 parts;
• Charcoal - 1 part.

Attention! When choosing a composition, they are guided by the hybrid characteristics of phalaenopsis, room conditions and the place of cultivation. The composition for different types of pots, and for different humidity and temperature in the room is different.

What composition is needed?

For planting, the bark is ground, boiled in a water bath and dried thoroughly. Large pieces of bark should be placed in the center of the pot so that there is less excess moisture (read how to choose the right pot for phalaenopsis here). Peat for phalaenopsis should be with large fibers and low salt composition.

Fossil fuel is recommended not to grind. Charcoal adjusts the amount of incoming moisture. But after a while he collects a considerable amount of salts. Florists add it very scrupulously. With further groundbaiting of the plant, you can not add coal.

Instructions on how to make the substrate yourself at home

A detailed description of the process will eliminate fuss and unnecessary mistakes. It is important to follow the sequence.

1. 
   Combine all the previously prepared ingredients, depending on the type of plant, according to the recipes given earlier. However, the condition of the soil and flower should be regularly monitored and adjusted. If the moisture in the pot is not absorbed for a long time, the soil dries poorly, while the plant is clearly not comfortable. So you need to add bark and charcoal.
   Or the situation is the opposite, the substrate quickly becomes dry, there is not enough moisture. Orchid leaves shrink, turn yellow, aerial roots dry out. This is a signal to add moss and fern roots.

2. All components are mixed immediately before planting a tropical beauty. The proportions of the components are also influenced by the size of the root system, the dimensions of the pot. But this is all selected individually.
3. We prepare a planting pot, a shovel, a basin for mixing the substrate, a measuring container. Then, using a measuring container, we measure out portions in accordance with the selected recipe. We mix all the components in a basin, and mix thoroughly with a spatula.
4. We proceed directly to the process of laying the layers. Take a clear plastic pot with drainage holes. We put expanded clay granules on the bottom, then a layer of substrate, followed by a second layer of drainage, and on top - the rest of the soil.

It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the soil. Indeed, over time, it depletes, decomposes, turning into dust. Then it is better to transplant the orchid or renew the soil. The state of the orchid directly depends on the presence of one or another component, so think carefully before using the material.

What to replace?

Most of the soil constituents are natural materials. But, if they cannot be obtained, it will be possible to find replacements for the missing components.

1. Pine bark can be replaced with sand. Only you need to take a large river. Leafy earth or small polystyrene is also suitable.
2. Instead of moss, add hydrogel or foam rubber.
3. Wood ash is easily replaced with crushed activated carbon.
4. Broken brick, perlite, gravel, vermiculite, as well as pebbles and crushed stone are equal drainage components. Therefore, in the absence of one, you can take another.

Soil for orchids

Soil for orchids with your own hands: the right composition and which one is better? Since the species are different, the plants different substrates will be required.

For each variety, the substrate is selected individually.

It depends on the fact that, for example, Phalaenopsis live in trees, and Cymbidium grows in the ground, so the quality of the substrate should be different.

The main task

How is the land prepared at home for an orchid? The most important requirement is the mixture must match the variety orchids.

The substrate must have such functions:

• Air permeability;
• The bark should not give off resin;
• The bark must retain moisture after watering;
• The substrate should keep the plant in the container.

Why is nutritious soil not suitable?

Too nutritious soil with too many nitrogen compounds, will be pretty hard and no species of orchids will survive in it, since the root system will suffocate under a layer of substrate without access to oxygen.

Ordinary soil taken from a vegetable garden or forest, absolutely not suitable for the cultivation of this tropical plant. It will be able to live in it for a short time and will die from a lack of oxygen.

IMPORTANT! When purchasing your first orchid, you can experiment with purchased mixtures, adding something of your own to them depending on the type of orchid.

Pebbles and rocks in the composition of the soil

In the wild, there are lithophyte orchids that live on the surface of large boulders. Phalaenopsis do not belong to them, but, nevertheless, they can grow well in a substrate, the basis of which is stones and rocks.

Experts recommend adding stones, minerals and rocks to the soil for orchids., but they should be no more than 20-30% of the total. If there are more of them, then such a substrate will not have enough nutrients for plant development. In addition, its moisture capacity will significantly decrease, so you will have to water the plant often.

The following materials can be used as components for the substrate:

• Granite chips;
• Marble chips;
• Perlite (rock);
• Vermiculite (mineral).

The stone-based soil also has certain advantages. Such a substrate dries quickly after watering, so the roots in it are not threatened with decay from stagnant water. It also allows air to pass through perfectly and does not cake over time.