Summer pruning of an apple tree: how to properly care for a tree

Timing

There are certain periods of summer pruning of an apple tree. It is better to remove branches on it after the end of the growing season. If you do this earlier, this will lead to a new appearance of the processes - the size of the fetus will decrease, because they will not receive enough nutrients.

The first removal of shoots is carried out when their length reaches 20 cm: the competing growths formed on the skeletal branches are cut off.

If you are growing early apple varieties, prune at the end of June. At this moment, remove all dimensional processes that were not removed in the fall. At the end of June, 1 m of the tree is cut to provide nutrients for fruit development.

If you do not reduce the height of the apple tree, there will be a risk of damage to it in winter, when there are strong north winds. Late-ripening varieties are pruned at the end of summer.

Reducing the time for removing shoots has the following consequences:

the ovary is not protected from sunlight, which leads to its dryness;
there is a great risk of diseases and parasites;
sunburn is formed on fruits and leaves.

Apple pruning in summer is preventive and sanitary. If in autumn or spring you did not have time to remove old, damaged or dry branches, it is allowed to do this in summer. Examine the tree for scion during the summer months. They are pinched so that the seedlings do not grow more actively.

When apple trees are formed

Crown formation is carried out throughout life. Most productive timing depend on the region of residence. These are mainly the first months of spring - March and April.

The ideal time for autumn pruning is after the apple harvest and before the first long frost. Spring pruning is done before the buds swell.

For work, choose dry weather with a temperature above 0 ° C.

In the spring

Spring pruning is performed before the active movement of the juice and the appearance of buds. In this case, the tree directs all its forces only to restore the damage inflicted. The formation of an apple tree during this period contributes to its active growth and development in summer. Sanitary pruning is also carried out in the spring - branches frozen in winter and damaged by winds are removed.

In summer

Formative pruning in the summer is performed as a last resort, since it often causes a delay in the development of apple trees, delays the growing season, and sometimes reduces fruiting.

Auxiliary pruning can also be done in summer. During this period, they resort to pinching actively overgrown shoots. This technique minimally traumatizes the tree. Pinching the shoots facilitates the sun's access to the central leaves, regulates the growth of skeletal branches. It is used until the lignification of the shoots. In the Moscow region, pinching is usually performed in June. In regions with a mild climate - in May.

With the arrival of August, in the northern regions, they begin the autumn sanitary pruning, the task of which is to prepare the tree for the winter period.

In autumn

When the crop is harvested and the foliage has completely fallen, you can start pruning in the fall. It is practiced in regions with mild and temperate climates. In northern regions with unpredictable temperatures, the tree may not have time to recuperate. This threatens with drying of the branches, and sometimes the death of the entire tree.

When preparing an apple tree for wintering, rotten, weak and broken branches are removed.

In winter

In regions with a mild climate, until the tree is out of dormancy, pruning of damaged branches can be carried out in winter. Winter pruning is performed after the foliage has completely fallen off and before swollen buds appear in the spring, with the exception of frosty days with low temperatures. On cold days, the bark becomes brittle and severely damaged.

Instruments

The main tool is a secateurs. It is suitable for removing branches that are less than 2 cm thick. If the shoots are thick, it is better to use a lopper. Its advantage is strength (it will not break during work). The lopper differs from the pruner only in longer handles.

Knives are also used. Such tools are less in demand, because with their help it is difficult to carry out high-quality and fast work. If you decide to use a knife, choose specimens with a sharp and strong blade. You can't let them break. They replace the secateurs.

If you are cutting large and thick branches, use garden saws for this. There is little difference between a garden saw and a conventional saw. The only difference is that the garden view is used for living branches.

Additional inventory

You will need gloves to protect your hands. Comfortable footwear will ensure comfortable work and will not cause fatigue in your feet. Closed clothing and safety goggles will keep sawdust off your skin and eyes.

To increase your comfort while working, use the ladder. It makes it easier to reach the topmost areas of the tree. If you have to remove large branches that are more than 35 cm in diameter, use a chainsaw to make this process easier.

Before use, each instrument is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate (40 g per 10 l of water). This way you will not bring bacteria or viruses into the tree and keep it healthy.

For young trees

The main purpose of pruning a young apple tree is to form its crown. During the procedure, a few branches are removed. If you carry out all the activities correctly, fruiting will come in a year. When forming the crown of young trees (up to 2 years of age), cut off the shoots that are at right angles to the central trunk.

Young apple trees need to be formed

Such apple trees have intensive growth, which leads to the need to eliminate unnecessary parts. If the crown is formed correctly, the yield indicators will delight you every year, and the taste of apples will amaze everyone who tries them.

Instructions

Follow the rules for forming the crown of young apple trees in order to achieve the desired result:

control the length of the central and lateral shoots. If the sideways branches exceed the size of the main trunk, they are pruned. Shortening is carried out as needed;
in the first year after planting, only 4 skeletal branches are left on a young tree. They will serve as the main crown. When you re-prune, leave already 5 shoots;
shortening the central shoot. The next 2 years do not touch him.

Young apple trees form many flowers. To minimize the load on the tree, some of the inflorescences must be removed. If the level of light prevents the fruit from ripening on time, cut a few branches to allow sunlight to enter the crown.

During the sanitary pruning of a young apple tree in the summer, weakened and diseased shoots are removed. This will prevent bacteria from spreading throughout the tree.

Working with a pruner

When forming an apple tree, the pruner is the main tool.Finally, it's time to take up this simple tool and start pruning small (meaning precisely by thickness) branches located directly on the trunk or large main branches. Concentrate precisely on those shoots that sprout directly from the trunk and central branches, completely removing them, so to speak, "at the root."

If there are large gaps in the crown, you can leave a few young and strong branches, directing and tying them towards the hollow area. The final step is pruning the thinnest shoots that grow at the ends of the branches. There are two pruning options here: first, you form the necessary crown and trim all branches until the crown acquires the required shape; the second - you just thin out some of the branches (usually every third) for better ventilation and more sunlight inside the crown.

For old trees

Summer pruning of apple trees also has a rejuvenating effect. This allows adult culture to direct all its energies to the development of young shoots. Pruning old and dry trees is necessary if:

the taste is lost;
reduced yield;
young seedlings do not develop.

Instructions

In the process of forming the crown of old apple trees, it is necessary to remove fatty branches and branches forming an angle of 45 °. Cut back on the gains that have appeared over the previous few years. There is also a more complex scheme, which involves the following actions:

on half of the shoots, 4 buds are removed;
eliminate young processes, up to a large kidney;
cut the shoots in the center of the tree if the fruiting rates have decreased;
eliminate the gain over the previous 3 years;
cut off the branches and branches that make the crown thick.

The highest percentage of harvest is observed in trees whose height is within 4 m. If this figure is exceeded, the tree is shortened. If you do not do this, the top of the apple tree does not receive the amount of nutrients it needs.

For a more complete understanding of the procedure, you should find and watch a video on the Internet, which shows how to prune an apple tree in summer.

What branches will there be a harvest

Among the branches of fruit plants, there are those that are most adapted to the formation of generative buds. On this basis, such branches, regardless of whether they have generative buds in a given year or not, are classified as generative. In pome breeds, this is a fruit twig, spear, ringlet.

Fruit twig is a thin, often curved one-year branch 15–25 cm long. Kopetso is a straight, 5–15 cm long branch, visibly tapering towards the apex. Kolchatka is a short branch 0.3–5 cm long. internodes and poor development of lateral buds.

On fruit twigs, spears and ringlets in many varieties of trees, mainly pome crops, when the flower bud awakens, a swelling appears - a fruit bag. At the top of the bag are flowers (fruits), and often 1-3 shoots in the form of annelids, spears, fruit twigs or vegetative shoots. They are called replacement shoots. Generative branches, growing annually in length, turn into fruits, or fruits, consisting of fruit bags, ringlets, spears, fruit twigs. Older and branched fruits are called compound fruiting, or mixed overgrowing, branches.

Generative branches of pome fruit: 1 - ringlet with a vegetative bud, 2 - ringlet with a generative bud, 3 - spear with a vegetative apical bud, 4 - spear with a generative apical bud, 5 - fruit twig, 6, 7, 8 - fruit bags with replacement branches , 9 - complex fruit branch.

Care after pruning

It is necessary to take care of apple trees after summer pruning, because their health and the level of fruiting depend on this. After the procedure, treat all open wounds with garden varnish.This will prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi inside the trunk.

Read also gorse photos and medicinal properties

You can replace garden var with balsamic bark, oil and water-based paints, which are diluted with gentle agents, and not with chemical solvents. This is a necessary procedure to prevent chemicals from dissolving the protective layer of the bark.

Move all branches outside the garden. The more waste you leave on the site, the worse it will penetrate oxygen into the soil. The tree will dry out and wither.

Do not perform the procedure in hot or damp weather. On warm days, the apple tree will not have time to recover from stress, and the rain will wash away the protective layer of the preparations with which you treated the cut sites.

Advantages and disadvantages

Caring for fruit trees does not work without pruning them. There is a list of the benefits of this procedure:

air circulates better inside the crown;
ovary and fruits receive a sufficient amount of sunlight;
the tree develops immunity to diseases;
pest resistance and yield indicators increase;
the harvesting process is facilitated.

Trees planted in the immediate vicinity also need pruning. Developed crops will shade "neighbors" and hinder them in obtaining nutrients from the soil. Regular pruning in the summer will help reduce competition.

If you do not want to carry out them, place the seedlings in advance at a distance of 6 m from each other. So you will save the energy that will have to be spent on the formation of the crown of the apple tree.

Alternative procedure

Try to trim the crown so that further care of it consists only in pinching without the use of tools. The manual method of formation is suitable for novice gardeners (only diseased branches are considered an exception).

It is enough to pinch the developed shoots to slow down the growth of the culture. After using this scheme, the formation of kidneys improves, from which apples are formed. It is not necessary to treat an open wound with garden varnish or other means. This method is not only easy to use, but also does not require additional tools.

A method based on deflection - "readjustment" of branches for active fruiting helps to replace the procedure. The essence of this method is as follows:

shoots that are located at an acute angle to the central trunk are taken to the horizontal plane;
in this position, they are fixed with twine, weight or tape - use weights with care so as not to damage the abduction process.

After a few weeks, the fixing material is removed. The branches remain in this position without him.

The discussion of garden pruning usually boils down to controversy: when it is preferable to do it - in late autumn or early spring. Question "Can you prune an apple tree in summer?" is not even discussed.

The classic advice to carry out this operation only during the rest period is based solely on tradition - "It has always been done like that"... There is an iron argument in support of this - "Juice comes in summer".

This cannot be denied, but the juice in the summer comes not only from garden trees. But has anyone seen, for example, maple shriveled from a broken branch? The vitality of cultivated plants is in no way inferior to the "savages".

If Spring pruning deadline missed, the trimming carried out outside these tight timelines.

Can you prune an apple tree in summer?

Pruning apple trees in the summer for beginners is most often needed in two cases:

I got from the previous owner old garden in a very unsightly condition;
The seller advised self-planted young trees "Cut by all the rules".

But here's the bad luck, the terms of spring pruning "by all the rules" have been missed. Need not be afraid go against the established "rules", perform this operation necessary for the garden late spring or summer.

By the summer pruning garden there are important advantages - very young branches, preferably simple pinch nails of two fingers. Such a pinch not at all does not injure the tree... On the contrary, new shoots grow even more intensively at the beginning of summer.

The advantages of the method:

After pruning in summer, flower buds do not awaken during thaws in winter;
The flowering period of the garden for the next year is shifted by about a week (this is quite enough to protect the ovaries from possible late frosts);
Thinning the crown in summer allows providing a mode of full illumination of the internal branches of the tree, which has a positive effect not only on the ripening of fruits, but also improves ventilation of the crown of the tree (the main preventive measure against fungal diseases of the apple tree);
Summer pruning is carried out not so much with a hacksaw and pruning shears as with a garden knife. You can even break out unnecessary green shoots.
Summer pruning is much easier for a novice gardener than in the cold season, when the tree is without leaves.

This cruel competition in the garden for light and water you can significantly loosen with simple summer pruning techniques.

Apple trees touch with crowns.

No need to worry that the tree will weaken:

The process of photosynthesis in the remaining leaves will intensify;
The appearance and taste of the fruit will improve;
The tree will significantly improve its health (it is the tips of young branches that affect diseases and pests).

How the pruning of apple trees in summer is carried out, the video below:

Schemes for old apple trees

A full pruning should be done every five years.

Usually, in the summer, only remove excess young shoots - to correct the shape of the crown. You don't even need a garden pruner for this, since the bark on the new shoots has not yet formed.

After their removal, there is no need to cover the wounds with garden varnish - the area of damage is insignificant, and the regeneration processes in young tissues occur very quickly.

As a result simple summer pruning:

The ventilation of the apple tree crown is improved;
The illumination of all branches increases;
Due to this, disease prevention occurs;
Increase in yield and quality of fruits;
It is much easier to work in the garden.

In June it is important to carry out all the basic operations for rejuvenationas there is fierce competition for water and nutrients between young and old branches that have ceased to bear fruit.

In July intensely new branches grow, the growth of which must be controlled. Otherwise, the crown of the apple tree will turn into swarm of fattening shoots, which will then be very difficult to deal with.

When pruning apple trees in August, then not only old, but also young, improperly growing branches are removed. With summer pruning, this is much easier to do because the result is immediately visiblewhile pruning in cold weather requires the grower to have enough experience to imagine what the tree will look like after.

Summer pruning methods:

August

Is it possible to prune an apple tree in August? The answer is unequivocally positive. Operations with growing branches are practically the same as in previous summer months.

It is necessary to especially monitor the state of the tree - all diseased and pest-affected branches must be cut and removed from the site... This is easier to do than to cure an incipient disease. Moreover, these weakened branches will not survive the winter anyway.

How to trim - important tips

It should be said right away that the main action when carrying out work in the summer is the sparing formation of the crown of the tree. In this case, you need to break off the fat shoots on the plant, hold a clothespin and “blind the buds” (if you are dealing with young apple trees). A similar pruning of apple trees, as we have already said, will allow the plant not to waste nutrients, but to let them into the formation of the crop. To balance the crown, it is necessary to actively pinch the skeletal shoots, slowing down their development by an average of several weeks.

If necessary, the clothespin can be repeated - this work is best done either with a special trimming tool or with your own hands. In this case, it is advisable to remove young shoots before they become stiff, cutting them out to the base. Due to this, the emergence of new growth is prevented, which will take away the necessary nutrients from the plant. And the wounds after the work done will heal pretty quickly - you don't even need to use a garden var. If you are just starting to learn gardening, be sure to check out the videos on these activities.

Video: Forming an apple tree

Pruning schemes for old apple trees

If the annual growth of shoots less than 30 centimeters and her fruits have lost their presentation - the apple tree needs anti-aging pruning.

Wherein remove branches:

Growing at an acute angle to the trunk (less than 60 degrees);
In vertically growing plants, a 2-year growth is removed.

On a dying tree, a high-quality harvest can be resumed if uncomplicated reception on all skeletal branches:

Cut an old branch (over 3 years old) into a stump of about 5-6 centimeters;
Of the awakened shoots, the most successful is chosen and a new branch is formed from it.

Columnar varieties

Rules for pruning columnar trees more easier... Since they form few side branches, it is enough only control their growth, pinching off the excess.

All shoots growing from the trunk perpendicular, it is necessary delete.

Particular attention should be paid to the gains in June - this is the period of accelerated growth of the tree.

Attention! In no case should the apical kidney be cut off. This will cause completely unnecessary branching and thickening of the column.

Young apple trees

The purpose of the formative pruning of a young apple tree is to control the ratio of the length of the central shoot and side branches, do not allow their competition. therefore side branches should be cut regularly.

Scheme for pruning young apple trees.

Young apple trees in summer remove:

Sick and dry branches;
Part of flower ovaries (so as not to weaken the young tree).

Leave:

Continuation shoots are strongest at the tops of the last year;
Skeletal branches - located 2-3 nodes below the continuation shoots.

Everything else is removed, and young trees are processed anti-stress drug (it doesn't matter how).

How is the summer pruning of apple trees - the video will show you in detail:

As soon as the tree starts actively overgrowing again (end of June), it is necessary pinch strong shootsto weaken the vigor of growth and induce the formation of fruit buds.

The preferred option would be if instead of pinching the shoots bend and fix the branches in a horizontal position... Such an operation accelerates the entry of young apple trees into fruiting.

Thus, the answer to the question "is it possible to cut the branches of an apple tree in the summer?" will also be positive.

When can you prune apple trees in the summer?

Big apple trees in June cut out green, young shoots so that they do not have time to stiffen by the time of pruning.
Columnar apple trees side branches pinch early June morning, leaving several lower buds on each branch.
In case you need to carry out pruning fruiting apple trees, then the best time for pinching the side branches, which grow very quickly - in June ... And for cleaning and removing excess, the time of the first half of August is suitable.

Read more about the timing of summer pruning of apple trees here.

How can you replace cropping?

By using summer pruning techniques, you can practically do without traditional garden tools:

Manual pinching has already been mentioned above. This is not just a gentle method of gardening. It is extremely convenient in that it does not require any preliminary preparation - the "instrument" is always with you.

An alternative to pruning branches could be method of forming the crown "in the fold" - transferring branches to fruiting. This procedure must be carried out until the end of June (before the formation of fruit buds).

For this improperly growing (at an acute angle to the trunk) branches deflect to a horizontal position and fix them.

The easiest way to do this is in two ways:

Secure with twine or tape;
By hanging the appropriate load.

Within about a month or two, the branches will "remember" their new location and the clamps can be removed.

Formation of the crown "in the fold".

Pruning apple trees in summer for beginners

Pruning apple trees in the summer is meaningless when viewed as a one-time "cut and forget for a year" campaign.

The main task of pruning - cut so that after it can be during the season do without cutting with tools, only by pinching (excluding cases of removal of diseased branches),

After pruning, there is no need to rush to cover everything with garden varnish (or other mastic). Small slices up to a centimeter in diameter do not need it at all.

By and large, cuts of a larger area are the same, but it is very difficult to fight this opinion. At least do not apply mastic immediately, let the wood dry naturally for several days.

How the summer pruning of apple trees for beginners is carried out - video below:

For even more information on pruning apple trees in the summer, check out this article.

The importance of summer pruning

The main purpose of pruning is to ensure late flowering for the apple tree. This prevents possible damage to the set buds from late spring frosts and fogs.

Several arguments for summer pruning:

Removing fast-growing shoots increases the supply of essential nutrients to the growing fruit.
It is easier to shape the crown of the tree to ensure that the fruits receive enough sunlight and make it easier for the gardener to harvest.
Removing shoots rejuvenates the old tree and revitalizes the young apple tree.
Thinning provides better penetration of sunlight into the crown, which affects better ripening of apples, and prevents the formation of malignant lesions on the leaves
Pruning an apple tree in summer has a positive effect on the appearance of new buds, stimulates their growth and inhibits the growth of shoots.

Each period of development of the apple tree has its own methods of formation

Formative pruning is essential for all fruit trees, including the apple tree. It achieves a beautiful and balanced tree structure with strong fruiting branches. An open crown with light and air access to each branch ensures the large size and quality of the apples. Formative apple pruning keeps the tree healthy and extends its life cycle.

Formative pruning methods for apple trees are directly related to the life cycle of the tree.

The life cycle of an apple tree can be roughly divided into four phases:

young tree - formation of the correct stem;
young tree - crown formation;
mature or old tree - production phase, replacement trim;
very old tree - prolongation of fruiting, the formation of a new skeleton of a tree.

Next, we will consider the methods of formative pruning of an apple tree for each of its life cycles - from a seedling to an old tree.

Effect of pruning on fruiting

Can apple trees be pruned in summer? It is not only possible, but also necessary! The period of tree fruiting will depend on the degree of thinning. Weak and rare pruning will speed up the appearance of the crop, strong pruning will delay the ripening of fruits for at least 1 year. Removing branches provokes strong growth of new shoots near the cut. Pruning changes the relationship between the root system and the aerial crown. The necessary substances coming from the root feed fewer growth points. This leads to enhanced, rapid growth of new shoots.

Some apple trees grow strongly, but do not bear fruit. Gardeners note that certain varieties have specific characteristics - a long, unproductive infant period. Apple trees that develop in favorable conditions and have sufficient mineral, mostly nitrogenous nutrients, do not bud.

The deflection and fixing of the branches in a horizontal, drooping position will ensure the retention of assimilates in the aerial part of the tree.

This procedure should be carried out at the end of June. About a quarter of the branches (not skeletal and semi-skeletal) are fixed with twine or tape.

This manipulation weakens the branches and encourages them to form flower buds.

For the first time, pruning apple trees in the summer for beginners seems difficult and troublesome. Yes, this is so, but only at first, while manipulations are being made on the "untouched" tree. The gardener needs to monitor unnecessary fatty processes (tops) on the tree trunk and remove them in time. It has been noticed that a broken process heals much easier and faster than a cut off with a pruner or a hacksaw.

On these stumps, you can take root other varieties of apple trees or other fruit crops. If there is no need for a clothespin, the damaged areas are “covered” with mastic or oil paint.

What you need to know about kidneys

Buds are formed on the plant stems in the leaf axils. In pome fruits, they are single, in stone fruits, they are both single and group, i.e. collected in groups of 2-3, of which there are 1-2 vegetative and 1-3 generative. At the base of the kidneys there are underdeveloped, almost invisible to the naked eye, but always ready for growth, the so-called spare kidneys. They start growing when the main kidney dies.

Buds, as a rule, germinate in the second year after their formation. But there are those who start to grow, barely having time to form. These are early maturing buds. They are typical for apricot, cherry, plum, peach and some other crops. Pome fruits also have them, but much less often.

Some buds start growing in exceptional cases. These are dormant kidneys. They retain the ability to grow for many years and germinate, for example, when the plant freezes, severe mechanical damage to it, when pruning.

A bud is a miniature shoot, closed on top with scales that protect it from damage. On the axis of the shoot, rudimentary leaves are located, and in their axils - the rudiments of new buds. This is how vegetative buds work.

If, in addition, there are flower buds in the bud, then the buds are called floral, or generative. It would be more correct to call them vegetative-generative, since they have the beginning of both vegetative and generative organs. But again, this is the terminology of the gardeners. Usually generative buds, be they simple or mixed, are larger than vegetative, rounded, protruding.

Shoots are formed from vegetative buds. After leaf fall, the shoot loses its name and acquires a new one - a branch. All branches according to their functions are divided into vegetative and generative. The vegetative branches, formed from the apical buds, increase the total length of the branches. They are therefore called continuation branches.

Vegetative shoots and branches: a - shoot, b - branch, c - continuation branch, d - competitor, e - lateral branch, f - tops, g - regenerative branches.

From one or two buds closest to the apical, shoots grow almost the same length as the continuation shoot. They are competitors, they are competing for a dominant position with a continuation escape.

From the lower buds, shoots grow, differing in length and orientation relative to the main axis of the branch. They seem to overgrow all more or less large branches. Therefore, gardeners called them overgrown. Depending on the culture and variety, the lifespan of the overgrowing branches is 3–10 years, although a 15-year-old overgrowing branch can also be found.

On perennial parts of large branches from dormant buds, vigorous vertical shoots sometimes appear. These are tops, or fat shoots. They are characterized by elongated internodes and large leaves.

Sometimes shoots appear at the stem, from the roots. These are root-plant shoots. Their appearance is mainly due to the biological characteristics of the rootstocks, but can appear due to the weakening of the aboveground system (aging, freezing, breakage).

Basic rules for pruning an apple tree

Before starting work, carefully inspect the tree, only then start. Stick to the middle ground. Remove a lot of branches - there is a risk of not getting a crop, leaving a lot of unnecessary ones means you will not achieve the desired result.

Crown formation

A certain set of manipulations provides the apple tree with a finished look and a formed crown. After planting a young tree in the garden, it will have the first pruning, which determines the height of the trunk. Subsequent shoot cutoff manipulations are required to ensure the correct formation of skeletal branches and ramifications.

The duration of crown formation lasts several years. It will take 4 years for the palmette, for the tiered and cupped shape it will take at least 8 years.

The yield of the tree will depend on the correctness of the work done. Experienced gardeners recommend caution and gentle processing. This will not stress the tree, and it will have time to recover before autumn.

Young apple trees that have not yet borne fruit especially need pruning. Each subsequent year, only the pruning is updated. For mature trees, this method is necessary to increase yields.

The stem is the height of the trunk from the root collar to the first skeletal branch. For an amateur garden, low-stemmed apple trees (40-60 cm) are preferable.

Rejuvenation

Pruning can give an old tree new life and make it bear fruit. The usual gentle manipulations of crown formation renew the fruit bearing, prompting the apple tree to bring a high-quality harvest. The percentage of ovaries increases several times during flowering. Rejuvenating pruning begins only after the growth and drying of the upper part of the apple tree has stopped.

Ideally, "rejuvenation" is carried out 2 times a year (in summer and winter).

The result is assessed according to several criteria:

The external state of the tree.
Apple leaf color, structure.
The bark of the trunk is intact, dense, without cracks.
Enlargement of tree ovaries.

Summer pruning is carried out according to certain rules:

During the work, competitive branches, tops, thickening branches growing deep into the crown of the apple tree are removed.
Shoots that extend from the skeletal branch or trunk at an acute angle must be cut off.
The rate of ripening of apples will depend on the location of the branches, so horizontal ones will give fruits earlier and in greater quantities.

Best crown shaping techniques

Experienced gardeners use several techniques to form a healthy apple tree crown. These techniques allow you to maximally thin out the branches, provide free access to sunlight, increase productivity and accelerate the ripening of apples.

A suitable option for the formation of the crown is chosen taking into account the age of the apple tree, its variety, as well as the characteristics of the grafting.

Below are the most common forms of apple crowns, allowing you to achieve high yields and an attractive aesthetic appearance.

Flat crown

For the effective use of the suburban area and the original appearance of the apple trees, a flat crown is formed. Such a crown is a symmetrically located skeletal branches. As a result, after a few years, it turns out not a voluminous tree, but stretched in a plane. A flat crown is most often formed in apple trees growing near a house or a fence on trellises.

The flat crown is otherwise called palmette and is subdivided into the following subspecies:

horizontal;
vertical;
oblique Italian;
free;
Verdier.

Forming a flat crown takes care, diligence and time.

Whorled-tiered

The five-knot or whorled-tiered crown is easy to form. It got its name due to the fact that the tier is formed from five branches growing from adjacent buds. Above the formed tier, after a few years, another one is created, consisting of three branches.

This crown has its drawbacks: apple trees grow large, require large areas and make maintenance difficult. Due to the large number of branches in the tier, the crown loses its strength and often breaks.

Creeping

The formation of the crown in width is called creeping. A properly formed creeping crown is effective in cold regions with strong winds and unfavorable climates. Even in such unfavorable conditions, gardeners are able to grow excellent apple yields.

Bushy

For vigorous and branching varieties, a bushy crown is used. It is saving for small summer cottages, as it allows you to form a healthy apple tree without harming neighboring trees. It is also suitable for harsh, northern conditions. Here gardeners have the opportunity to quickly renew the tree when the branches freeze.

To form a bushy crown, an annual seedling is pruned at a height of 40-60 cm. Then, six skeletal branches are left, located close to each other, all other branches are removed.

Vertical palmette

For industrial mass cultivation of apples from low-growing varieties, vertical palmette is used. This method involves the formation of branches not in the standard way around the tree, but in one plane. Vertical palmette allows you to plant seedlings quite tightly, at a distance of 1-3 meters from each other without compromising yield.

This pruning method is often used for apple trees used as decorative fences.

Fusiform

With fusiform pruning, a small volume of shoots is removed and the skeleton of the conducting branch is removed. Fusiform pruning provides excellent lighting for the tree, followed by a rich harvest. Differs in ease of implementation and minimum effort.Suitable for beginners without experience and allows you to form a beautiful and healthy crown of an apple tree in three years.

Cupped

Crown formation in a bowl is excellent for varieties that are characterized by weak growth and short life. For its formation, the processes are removed, extending from the conductor to a length of about 40 cm. Above the main branch, the conductor is completely cut off.

Tiered-discharged

One of the simplest and most common crowns is the tier-discharged one. It gives the apple tree a natural look and promotes multilevel branching. A tier-sparse crown in an adult apple tree is kept at a level not higher than 2.5 meters.

Differences in pruning old and young trees

There are some nuances in pruning an apple tree in summer, the scheme will be different for trees of different ages.

For the young

Trees that have not yet yielded crops should only be pruned gently, the main goal is to ensure active growth. The skeletal branches serve as the basis. According to the scheme, the processes that interfere with the life of the apple tree are removed; they must be cut off at an acute angle. They actively remove branches that interfere with the growth of the main one. The procedure is repeated after 2-3 years.

A properly formed crown will provide convenience in harvesting and its good ripening in the sun. Summer pruning is indispensable if you do not want to pick small, tasteless apples from your tree in the garden. At the same time, diseased, dry processes are cut off. If this is not done, they will take nutrients from healthy branches.

So that the apple tree does not suffer from a bountiful harvest, it is necessary to remove part of the flower ovaries.

For old

You need to know how to properly prune an apple tree in adulthood. The main sign that a tree needs rejuvenating pruning is a decrease in shoot growth (less than 30 cm) and a poor-quality crop. Branches located at an acute angle to the trunk must be removed. For those that grow vertically, the growth is cut off in 2 years.

Experienced gardeners insist that an adult tree should not be allowed to grow upward. This degrades the quality of the tree and the yield. Branches that are more than 3 years old must be cut down to a height of 6 cm. When shoots appear on them, the most powerful one is chosen, which can replace the removed branch. This procedure will ensure the harvest of quality fruits on the dying tree.

Slices of wood with a diameter of more than 1 cm must be smoothed out with a knife and painted over with oil paint on drying oil. This will prevent loose wood from rotting.

Pruning in summer will make your apple trees healthier and increase yields in your garden.

Timing

When apple trees are formed

In the spring

In summer

In autumn

In winter

Instruments

Additional inventory

For young trees

Instructions

Working with a pruner

For old trees

Instructions

What branches will there be a harvest

Care after pruning

Advantages and disadvantages

Alternative procedure

Can you prune an apple tree in summer?

Schemes for old apple trees

August

How to trim - important tips

Video: Forming an apple tree

Pruning schemes for old apple trees

Columnar varieties

Young apple trees

When can you prune apple trees in the summer?

How can you replace cropping?

Pruning apple trees in summer for beginners

The importance of summer pruning

Each period of development of the apple tree has its own methods of formation

Effect of pruning on fruiting

What you need to know about kidneys

Basic rules for pruning an apple tree

Crown formation

Rejuvenation

Best crown shaping techniques

Flat crown

Whorled-tiered

Creeping

Bushy

Vertical palmette

Fusiform

Cupped

Tiered-discharged

Differences in pruning old and young trees

For the young

For old

Summer pruning of fruit trees - video