Pruning columnar apple trees: schemes for how to prune in spring, summer and autumn

It just so happened that the apple tree in our gardens is the most traditional and most desirable tree. After all, it is not for nothing that it is believed that a few apples plucked straight from the tree and eaten right there on the spot can bring health to a person for a whole year. But in recent decades, household plots, especially near large cities, have become smaller and smaller. And it is becoming more and more difficult to place large fruit trees on them. But a traditional apple tree is a tree with a height of 6-8 meters and a crown diameter of sometimes up to 10 meters. It is not for nothing that industrial apple orchards observe the minimum distance between trees of 5-6 meters. But you want to have apple trees of different ripening periods in order to feast on tasty and healthy fruits from mid-summer to the very frost.

This is where the so-called columns come to the rescue, that is, columnar apple trees. It is believed that they take up little space, which means that even in a small area of 2-3 acres, several trees can be placed at once and there will still be free space. And caring for them should not be difficult at all. But in reality, everything turns out not quite as we would like.

The maintenance and pruning of these trees is significantly different from traditional varieties. This article will be devoted to how to properly cut a columnar apple tree and take care of it.

Formation of columnar apple trees

Whether to trim the garden, forming a strict column, the choice is individual.

But it is worth considering that appearance of apple trees - not the only reason, in this regard, a number of aspects can be distinguished:

Formation of the correct shape of the apple tree;
Prevention of entangling shoots;
Strengthening young branches;
Apple tree rejuvenation;
Yield growth.

Features of pruning stone fruit crops. Pruning stone fruit crops

There is nothing difficult in pruning stone fruit crops. They are cut in almost the same way as apples and pears, there are, however, a few small differences.

Recall that the stone fruit crops include cherry, cherry, plum, cherry plum, blackthorn, bird cherry. A feature of these crops is the rapid entry into fruiting. If a pear has to wait six to eight years, then a sweet cherry bears fruit in three years. This is good, but the bad thing is that trees are short-lived, often die, and fruit formations quickly die off. As a result, the branches may become bare.

As a result, fruiting quickly moves to the periphery of the crown, and the yield drops. All this can be prevented by correct pruning.

Pruning plum, cherry plum

Most often they are formed according to a sparse-tiered system. The first four years pruning is the same as in apple trees, but annual growths are shortened if they are longer than 50 cm. They try to shorten the shoots to the outer bud so that the crowns are more spreading, since the plum is prone to the formation of a poplar crown.

Medium-sized varieties are shortened more easily. From autumn, 3-4 cm of hemp (thorns) are left, which are removed only in summer. This will prevent gum from forming on the slices. The first tier consists of three to four branches, the second of two and the third of one branch. Above the third tier, the central conductor is cut off.

Cherry pruning

Cherry has two groups of varieties: tree-like and bush. Treelike form in much the same way as plum.The distance between them is maintained, like that of apple trees (4x6 m). After the trees enter fruiting, the shortening of the shoots is stopped, only the thickening branches are thinned out.

The height is limited to 3-4 m. Bare branches are shortened to the point of exposure. If the growth is less than 25 cm, it is necessary to rejuvenate the crown for three to four years of wood.

Bush cherries can be formed with a bush of five to eight branches. The main thing is that the crown does not turn out to be thickened. But such trees survive in the coldest winters and bear fruit literally in the second year of life.

Pruning a columnar apple tree: scheme

Columnar pruning is minimal and is mainly aimed at balancing growth and fruiting.

When forming, it is worth considering some characteristics, inherent only in low-growing trees.

Central escape plays the role of a rod for the entire tree and cannot be shortened. As for the lateral ones, there are horizontally and vertically located branches.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on how to properly cut the side shoots. It is they who are the foundation in the formation of fruiting zones, which subsequently yield a harvest within three to five years. In the care of columnar apple trees, pruning takes an important place.

Pruning involves two main tricks:

Removal - in the event that only part of the branch is cut;
Cut - the branch is removed completely.

When forming a column, experienced gardeners adhere to basic rules:

In the year of planting a young tree is to be pruned into two buds. This will strengthen the shoots and subsequently give healthier shoots.
Next year the gardener has a new job. It is necessary to determine the horizontally located branches and cut them off. The pruning height is individual, but on average it is about 30 cm. Vertical ones - located closer to the central trunk, are left for further fruiting.
In the third year the life of the tree is repeated last year's pruning. The difference is that shoots bearing fruit in the previous season are additionally removed.

Pruning young columnar apple trees.
Advice! Removing the still green small shoots growing from the trunk will not harm. On the contrary, such a procedure is necessary. Elimination of excess growth contributes to the formation of a powerful central pillar and abundant fruiting. Further pruning is reduced to leaving branches no older than three to four years of age.

If you have doubts about cutting the next branch, you can follow hint... The tree should not have branches that have reached half the thickness of the center conductor.

Correct pruning of columnar apple trees: video advice from Uncle Vanya, a gardener.

Description and characteristics of the variety

Columnar varieties of apple trees often began to be found in the gardens. They take up little space and decorate the site. A characteristic feature is the presence of one trunk, from which short, thick shoots extend. Fruits are formed both on the lateral branches and on the central trunk.

Distinctive features of columnar apple trees:

Most trees grow no more than 3 meters in height, but there are specimens that grow up to 5 meters.
Almost all varieties of apple trees do not tolerate cold winters. If the crown kidney is damaged, the development of culture changes. The shape of the crown and the taste of the fruit change.
The compactness of the culture allows you to plant it in an area where there is little space.
Fruiting begins two years after planting.
The roots are close to the surface of the earth.
High productivity.

It is easy to care for columnar apple trees, but there are also some distinctive features:

the root system of columnar apple trees spreads close to the surface of the earth, therefore, frequent watering is required;
high demands on feeding;
it is impossible to loosen and weed the soil around the trunk;
it is recommended to plant a lawn near the trunk, which will retain moisture and heat.

The disadvantage of a columnar culture is a relatively short growing season. After 12 years, it ceases to bear fruit.

When to prune a columnar apple tree

Pruning terms for each variety are individual and are determined by the peculiarity of the variety. Formation can be carried out in four stages:

Winter pruning is considered the main... The most successful period for its implementation is the pre-spring period.
Spring pruning is a good time to spot a central shoot. Produced after flowering.
Summer pruning is designed to remove unnecessary young shoots.
Strong upright shoots are removed during the period autumn pruning... At the same time, thickened places can be thinned out.

it annual plan for the formation of columnar apple trees... But each of the points should be given separate attention.

Features of columnar trees

These varieties were obtained in the 80s of the last century as a result of an accidental mutation of one of the oldest apple trees in Canada. Trees could not fail to interest many amateur gardeners.

In addition, fruits are formed both on short fruit branches and directly on the main trunk.

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Columnar trees are usually also characterized by a small height, but this value is largely determined by the characteristics of the stock onto which the trees were grafted. If the stock turns out to be vigorous, then it is possible to grow a "column" up to 4-5 meters in height and even more.

There is one more point that is rarely paid attention to. Many varieties of columnar trees have been developed for much milder climates. It is for this reason that the apical buds of these trees often freeze, not withstanding severe frosts. Namely, they are the most valuable buds, the dying off of which can completely alter the development of the tree.

Finally, columnar trees have a shallow root system, so they require more frequent watering, especially in hot and dry weather. It is impossible to loosen and dig up the earth in its near-trunk circle for the same reason. Most often, it is sown with special lawn grass to maximize moisture retention.

All these features cannot but affect the nature of the care and pruning that columnar trees may need.

Winter pruning of a columnar apple tree

The columnar apple tree has no permanent branches.

Due to its strictly cylindrical shape the branches of the lower part of the tree are in slightly worse conditions.

Sunlight does not hit them in the same volume as the upper ones.

During the period of winter pruning, fruiting zones are formed, gradually shifting to the upper tiers.

Also remove broken and dry branches.

To reduce the load of future fruits on the tree, too weak shoots are removed.

How to prune for a good harvest

There is a special scheme for pruning columnar apple trees, which is aimed at increasing the yield.

When the seedling is placed in the soil, the apical shoot is removed. But this should be done only in the spring;
In the second year, lateral branches are cut off, it is forbidden to touch the central shoot;
During the third season, weakened branches should be completely removed, and healthy ones are shortened by 30 cm;
For the fourth season, among the young shoots, it is necessary to choose the most viable ones. The rest are removed;
At 5-6 years of tree growth, it is worth cutting off the top. Such a measure stops the increase in plant height;

Advice! At the beginning and at the end of the season, do not forget about sanitization and carry out it in accordance with the rules written on the packaging of the product.

Pruning does not end with caring for the apple tree. After treating the injured area with garden varnish or its analog, it is important to control how new shoots are formed.

If all goes well, feed the plant with spring organic fertilizers and keep it pest-proof and watering schedule during the horticultural season.

As for the columnar apple trees, it is common erroneous opinion about the lack of growth of lateral shoots in them.

In this case, there would be no talk of pruning a pyramidal apple tree.

And such a question, how to cut a columnar apple tree, arises even among seasoned gardeners. Let's talk about this further.

Pruning columnar apple trees in spring: scheme

The main task is to finish trimming before the juice starts moving.

The essence of the formation is that after pruning, growth increases several times... Gardeners get the same number of new shoots from the four to five buds remaining on the pruned branch.

Such pruning called pinching or pinching... New growth is not the only goal of the procedure.

Learn everything from how the pruning of columnar apple trees is performed in spring: the video will clearly show the subtleties of the process:

After the winter cold, the frozen tips of the branches are removed. This procedure contributes to the rejuvenation and health of the apple tree.

How to avoid mistakes

The mistakes made by novice gardeners in the process of pruning an apple tree lead to the fact that the pruned branches stop growing, do not bear fruit and dry out.

Common mistakes:

strong shortening, which leads to the death of the branch;
excessively oblique cut, leading to injury to the tree bark;
too close pruning in relation to the place of growth of the kidney, which interferes with its subsequent development.

The healthy growth of a pruned tree and a rich harvest from it is facilitated by:

correct execution of the cut in the direction from the base to the apex, opposite from the extreme kidney;
the location of the cut at a distance of more than 1.5 cm above the place of growth of the kidney;
making an even cut, without scuffing the tree bark.

These tips allow you to care for your garden crop without damaging it.

Correct pruning of columnar apple varieties allows for the full development of horticultural crops and high yields.

The stages of the formation of apple tree growth are distributed over several years and are carried out according to the generally accepted scheme.

Columnar apple trees have shortened shoots and a vertical trunk. But in order for such plants to exist for a long time and bear fruit successfully, it is necessary to take proper care of them. Pruning is considered one of the most important steps in annual grooming. Let's consider how to carry it out.

Pruning columnar apple trees in summer: scheme

In the summer, unnecessary green shoots of the current year are removed. They are easy to identify: as a rule, they grow directly from the center conductor... You don't need a pruner to remove them. Summer pruning of columnar apple trees is performed by plucking.

Correctly pruned columnar apple tree.

Caution! Removing small growth will not harm the apple tree, but it requires great care. It is important not to damage the bark. It is much easier for a tree to endure a couple of large wounds than many small ones.

Rules and Schemes

There is an opinion that lateral shoots do not grow in columnar apple trees. But this is not true - they, like the top of the tree, must be trimmed. Otherwise, this leads not only to the death of plants, but also to the loss of a bountiful harvest.

Single-barrel model

After planting, it is necessary to shorten the top by a third.

And in all subsequent years of growth, it is required to prune the branches during the autumn formation so that they are at the same level.

Double-barreled scheme

Plants form after the first pruning: two strong branches are chosen, approximately equal in size to each other.

Then you need to make sure that side shoots are removed from both shoots, and the length of the branches is maintained at the same level.

Pruning a crown or side shoot

The formation of the crown can occur due to pruning of the crown shoot or lateral processes.

The first method involves pruning the top of the tree when you need to stop its growth. The optimal period is considered to be the 6th year of the growing season. Working with the sides is to cut them at a slight angle upward using a sharp pruner or garden shears. Such a measure completely changes the appearance of the crown.

Pyramidal crown

According to the rules, in a young plant, the upper part is removed by a third.

In subsequent years, the side shoots are cut so that the upper ones are shorter than those located below. This allows you to form a pyramidal crown by the second year.

Cutting when the main trunk is broken

There is an option for those who are faced with a breakdown of the main trunk of the apple tree.

The tree needs to be tied up from above and below from breaking, propped up for greater reliability. The problem area is smeared with garden varnish or other means that prevent diseases of the flora. Next, the desired type of crown is formed.

Then you will have to remove the shoots from the fracture point and again cover it with disinfectant liquid.

Pruning columnar apple trees in the fall

In the autumn period after the harvest, when the movement of sap stops, the trees are sanitized. Columnar apple trees in the fall also require this method of care.

All unnecessary branches are removed:

Dry;
Broken;
Branches;
Crossed among themselves.

Without this ballast, it will be easier for the tree to survive the winter. Special attention is paid to twigs, dried and tainted by pests.

Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree in the fall: video for beginners from an agricultural school

See how to cut a columnar apple tree in the fall - the video will help you figure it out:

You may also find it helpful to have a video about making a sprinkler for putting an apple tree after pruning:

Do not forget about the growth of the current year, growing from the central shoot. Removing them in summer does not ensure their absence by autumn.

The above are general recommendations for the care of columnar apple trees regarding pruning and shaping.

But for each variety, the specificity of care is individual. And then the pruning and shaping of the columnar apple is carried out according to the situation.

The age of the tree also requires its own corrections. Pruning young trees is most important.

Experts recommend starting the formation of lateral branches in the first year. The developing annual shoots are pinched into two buds. In this case, it is recommended to leave a couple of lower buds at the base of the branch. Next year, strong young shoots will be formed from them.

Why do you need pruning

Columnar trees are quite compact, low, which makes it possible to grow them in a small area, while several species can be planted at once.

The superficial location of the root system requires regular pruning of the crown, which prevents the appearance and development of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases.

The most important vegetative organ is the apical kidney, when deformed or removed, the lateral processes develop faster. In this case, cropping is necessary because the procedure affects the regularity of fruiting and the quality of the crop.

In addition, you need to trim the columnar apple tree so that:

strengthen young branches;
to rejuvenate an adult tree both in the area of individual shoots and everything in general;
increase productivity;
prevent branches from tangling and their subsequent breaking off;
improve the appearance of the tree.

Features of pruning apricot. Autumn pruning

When the stage of active fruiting is over, all the fruits have been successfully eaten or turned into jam with compotes, the gardener and his family are happy, and the apricot, as a rule, looks somewhat emaciated. The summer heat also often contributes to its state, but the main energy is spent by the plant precisely during the period of fruit ripening. Proceeding from this, it is necessary to equalize the forces between the fruitful and deciduous branches by their competent removal, the main thing is to understand how to properly cut the apricot in the fall.

The paradox is this! If, in relation to other fruit trees, a similar procedure is carried out in order to increase the yield, then in the case of apricots, on the contrary, to reduce its amount. In fact, you do not need to do the regulating autumn pruning. It is mostly ignored by gardeners who do not spare the tree, and those who take care of the plant, want to get at least not too massive, but a regular and very tasty harvest, they must cut the tree, thereby contributing to its good condition and longevity. Pruning an apricot in the fall looks like this:

about a third of the fruitful branches are removed;
the branches that form the frame of the tree do not touch, since the shape of the crown depends on them, but if desired, some "incorrect" branches can be removed;
all remaining bends capable of bearing fruit are shortened to about 45-50 cm;
if there are dry or seemingly large branches, they are also disposed of.

Such work should be completed by the end of October. This is the ideal time, since the growing season is already over, and the first frost does not smell yet. Of course, every gardener adapts to his climatic conditions. And one more nuance: autumn pruning is acceptable only for those apricots that bear fruit early enough. If the ripening of fruits ended relatively late, then it is better to limit yourself exclusively to spring and summer cares, otherwise there is a risk of harming the plant. Due to the individual characteristics of different varieties, the question of when to prune the apricot: in the spring or in the fall, disappears by itself.