Spider mite on an orchid: how to remove, prevention of appearance

What is a spider mite and what does it look like

Unfortunately, the tick is not visible on orchids: a microscopic, gluttonous villain, moves quickly or slowly, but reproduces quickly. The superfamily Tetranychidea (true), an animal of the arthropod type, arachnid is the scientific name for a spider mite. Of more than 1200 species, up to 35 are orchids.

Often found:

1. Flat (false) - a red tick, does not weave a web, is resistant to chemical poisoning. It includes: phalaenopsis (a sign of appearance on phalaenopsis - white dots); greenhouse, oncidium.
2. Common and Turkestan - green, soft-bodied, polyphagous, damage all plants.
3. The root mite (bulbous) can live without food for six months. It settles in bulbs and feeds on them, turning them into dust.
4. Armored (like a spider) - dark and shiny, eats humus (fallen into the soil, decaying parts).

On a note!

Orchid cell sap is excellent food for many of them. The piercing-sucking jaws help to bite into the foliage.

In adult arthropods, the body is oval, unevenly divided into two parts (0.3-1 mm), the eyes are red. They move on 8 legs with claws that are easy to grip. Young larvae make do with 6 legs, 2 more grow as they mature (after 2 molts). The color varies depending on the species and age. There are: white, green, brick, orange. Some mites change color while eating. There may be spots on the back. Males are smaller than females in size. The spider mite lives for 5 weeks. During the cycle, it looks different: egg (0.1-0.15 mm), larva, nymph, imago (adult).

Pest appearance

Scabbards feed on plant sap, which is sucked out of plants. Phalaenopsis and cymbidium orchids are at risk. After drinking the juice, the scabbard injects poison into the voids that appear. The affected leaves are covered with multi-colored spots and soon die off. The dew secreted by females contributes to the development of fungal diseases. It envelops the plant, interfering with the process of photosynthesis. Due to the lack of sunlight, orchids quickly weaken and die. The sweet, sticky substance lures the ants. Small pests multiply rapidly, affecting neighboring plants.

Damage to orchids with scale insects occurs either upon contact with other cultivated indoor plants, or through an open window. You can visually determine the presence of pests on plantings. Having looked carefully, small bugs are found on the surface of the plants. In nature, there are several varieties of pseudo-scale insects and scale insects.

The female does not have the ability to move independently. On plants, it looks like a well-defined wart or tubercle. The male scale insect is more mobile and even able to fly, but its life cycle is limited to about one week. His death in most cases occurs shortly after he completes fertilization of females.

As a result of fertilization, eggs are formed, located on the body of the female under the scutellum. Their number varies from 30 to 150. She often lays these eggs on the lower leaf plate.After a certain time (usually about one to two weeks), oval larvae hatch from them, which immediately begin to directly destroy the plants.

They move along the surface of the plant in search of an area that would be suitable for them to feed. Having found such a place, the larva sticks to it with its oral apparatus, the shape of which outwardly resembles a stylet. If this is a female, then she remains in this place until the end of her life. Over time, the larvae grow into adult insects and cease to harm the plantings.

It is possible to determine the presence of pests by the external state of plants. The foliage begins to curl strongly, becomes less elastic. The edges of the leaf blades dry out quickly. On the underside of the leaf blade, you can find not only bugs, but also dark marks, tubercles, a sticky coating - a pad.

Treatment begins when the first symptoms of a lesion are detected.

What is dangerous and what harm it does

Orchid mites bite into foliage and inject a special enzyme that dissolves cell membranes. It is this juice (biomass) that the spider mite feeds on, sucking it out, and softens the areas around the bites. The affected leaf changes color (silver or reddens), becomes covered with cobwebs, quickly turns yellow, curls and falls off.

The animal multiplies rapidly, and as a result, the area of ​​damage to the flower increases, and the bite sites become unprotected. Air, fungi, viruses, bacteria enter the "wounds", continuing destruction. The disease also spreads to the buds, which, having dried up, fall, and never bloom. It is necessary to start fighting the spider mite in time, to process the orchid and soil mixture so that other indoor plants do not suffer and become infected.

Important!

The harmful arthropod hides in the ground (at a depth of 20 cm), in buds and under dead leaves.

Optimal conditions for the appearance of mites on orchids

A light and weightless parasite can immediately hit the flower. Or it begins to settle on the windowsill, the walls of the container, approaching the plant. The spider mite infects the orchid in the following ways:

• transferred to clothing;
• through contaminated soil;
• exchange of flowers, new seedlings, bouquets for the holiday;
• through the windows, migrating through the air (the wind, summer heat, trees nearby) help.

Parameters that are ideal for their life and reproduction: dry air (up to 40-50%) and warm (+26 -32 degrees). The female spider mite lays eggs all year round, anywhere (roots, soil, pot walls). Several clutches of 1-3 pieces, more than 200 eggs in total. The full life cycle from egg to adult tick is 6.5 to 20 days. It all depends on the "climate", the higher the temperature, the faster the cycle. At least 20 generations per season. They live 15-30 days, this time is enough to kill the plant.

Important!

Egg colonies of spider mites can remain in an inactive phase ("sleep") for up to 4 years, while waiting for suitable environmental conditions.

A microscopic insect can only be seen through a magnifying glass at an early stage. The human eye will only notice a large colony of spider mites when the flower is severely damaged. Visible signs of damage (disease):

1. The drooping flowers look pale, weak.
2. Lumpy, yellow, or withered foliage (dehydrated).
3. White dots-specks that grow on the leaf plates. Over time, they become brown, weeping, even black.
4. The photosynthesis reaction is disrupted.
5. Cobweb: on the stem above the root. On the upper side of the leaves, lump-like seals on the back.

The most nutritious and juicy for arthropods are tender and young flowers, buds, leaves. If there are many active parasites at the tips of the leaves, then they are ready to move to other flowers.

Ways to deal with a tick

Getting rid of spider mites on orchids at home is not easy.Before applying a "chemical attack" to him, you need to follow a number of tips from experienced gardeners:

1. Dilute household (tar) soap or dishwashing liquid in warm water (1 tablespoon per 1 liter).
2. Isolate the orchid. Using a sponge, lather and wash the rags so that water does not get on the ground (the roots will suffer).
3. Cut off dead parts of the plant and process the cuts.
4. With the same water, wipe everything that came into contact with the plant (pots, stand, container, window), wash the curtains.

It will not be possible to completely get rid of the spider mite on the orchid, but it is quite possible to reduce the colony.

A dry room is a paradise for an arthropod animal. An urgent change in conditions will help the treatment: after the soap treatment, water the flower abundantly, and artificially create a greenhouse for several days (no more than 3). Wrap with polyethylene, forming a dome. High humidity is more likely to get rid of mites.

Attention!

It is necessary to cure the plant, not kill it. Observe, for slight signs of wilting, remove the package.

Folk remedies

You can completely get rid of the spider mite on an orchid (with a small amount) by applying healing folk recipes. The most effective:

1. A decoction of chopped cyclamen tubers. Cook for 45 minutes. Insist and strain for 24 hours. Spray once every 5 days.
2. Alcohol (medical). For orchids with a hard leaf. Moisten a rag (cotton wool) and wipe. If the plant tolerates well, does not wither, then continue processing (test in a small area).
3. Grated onions 15 g or husks 6 g. Pour boiling water over for 6 hours. Strain. Spray 4 days 2-3 times.
4. Citrus peels 100 g per 1 liter. Boil. Insist 3 days. Spray every 4 hours.

You can also use a decoction of nettle for immunity 3 liters of water per 750 grams of herb. Pour boiling water over, leave for 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Then immerse the orchid for 5 minutes.

When all the folk measures to combat animals have been used, but nothing has worked out, serious means are required.

Chemicals

Arthropods have multiplied - time is lost. The fight against annoying spider mites on orchids is carried out with chemical or biological poisons.

In order not to get poisoned, experts advise to wear protection: a mask, gloves, glasses. For processing use:

1. Akarin 2 ml for 4 liters of water. Natural insecticide. Spray 4 times a month, at intervals of 7 days.
2. Fitoverm 3 ml per 2 liters of water. Natural insecticide. Spray 4 times a month, with a pause of 7 days. Paralyzes the nervous system. It is best to apply the plant completely immersed in the solution.
3. Actellik 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Highly toxic (class 2). Apply only on the street strictly according to the annotation. The most effective drug at an air temperature of 15-25 degrees. Process, pausing for 7 days 2 times.
4. Apollo 2 ml for 5 liters of water. Fights larvae. Process twice. Adult animals are sterilized.

On a note!

Spider mites get used to poisons. Therefore, the funds will need to be alternated. Replacement drugs: Metaldehyde, Theofos, Omite, Nurell-D, Borneo, Bayer Spinnmilbenspray, Bars Forte, Nero and others.

Scale insecticides

Contact insecticides, when in contact with the body of an insect, penetrate under its integument and provoke paralysis, which after a certain period of time leads to the death of pests. With this method, it is possible to quickly get rid of the scale insects on the orchid.

Damaged plantings are treated with systemic insecticides. The active substance of the preparations penetrates into plant tissues, making their juices poisonous to pests. After the scabbard sucks out such juice, it soon dies.

Intestinal preparations begin their activity only after the scabbard penetrates into the body. They are processed at least twice with a break of one week.

Any means from this category are used only in exceptional cases when other means have not shown their effectiveness. It is necessary to use them, strictly observing the dosage indicated on the package. The use of personal protective equipment is recommended.

Processing during flowering

How serious damage arthropods cause to an orchid during flowering depends on their number. When the cobweb spreads to buds and flowers, it means that the colonies of plant-eating animals have multiplied many times. If you find a problem on time, then you can do with folk remedies - alcohol, a solution of laundry soap, a hot shower. A blooming orchid will not suffer from this.

The white web is almost invisible. As soon as you catch your eye, you must immediately:

• isolate the orchid from the home summer garden (it is better to process all the plants);
• cut off damaged leaves from bulbs, buds and flowers;
• get out of the soil mixture, clean the roots, remove dry parts, and process the cores and trunk with tweezers;
• rinse in water with laundry soap, not forgetting about the window and curtains;
• treat with an insecticide;
• dry and transplant into a new soil mixture.

In advanced cases, when the orchid is completely infected, chemical poisons cannot be dispensed with. Unfortunately, they harm the delicate petals and the flowering stops. The main task in this case is to save the plant itself. Good luck when processing falls in the last phase of flowering.

Security measures

Thiamethoxam belongs to the third hazard class. When using it, the following rules should be observed:

1. Do not dilute the drug in containers intended for food.
2. It is necessary to store the insecticide out of the reach of children and animals.
3. You can work with the drug either outdoors or in a ventilated area.
4. The treatment is carried out with gloves and goggles.

If the product gets on the skin or mucous membranes, rinse the affected areas thoroughly with water.

The shelf life of the drug in the package is 4 years. The rest of the solution is disposed of immediately after use. It cannot be stored and left until the next processing.

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Prevention of infection

A weakened plant is predominantly affected. To prevent this from happening, it is important to follow preventive measures. Ventilate, spray and maintain optimal "weather" in the house (humidity and temperature). Keep new plants in a 2-week "quarantine" separately. Wipe the foliage and everything around with soapy liquid or alcohol. Remove dead parts. Water the flower periodically with warm water (helps prevent or wash off the living creatures). Inspect the plant regularly.

Advice!

Garlic can be a good defense. Stick a few cloves into the ground to germinate. It will not harm the plant, but will scare away spider mites, and not only them. And also, spray the flowers with water with the addition of 10-20 drops of neem tree oil (antibacterial, arthropods are not addicted to it).

The beauty of the orchid is capricious. It is better to prevent any disease than to cure it for several months. Then the flower will delight everyone.