Propagation of strawberries with a mustache: a description of this and other methods, popular varieties of berries, fertilization

It would seem that it can be difficult to reproduce garden strawberries with a mustache. Do not think that I was mistaken in calling strawberries garden strawberries. The fact that we grow in the garden is really strawberry, garden, or, as it is also called, pineapple, and strawberry is a completely different plant, which is practically not grown. But we will call it strawberries in the old fashioned way. So about mustache breeding. Not so simple. I will share with you my personal experience, I will tell you about my mistakes.

Photos from the site: https: //www.ogorod.

Propagation of strawberries in autumn with a mustache. Propagation of strawberries with a mustache

Strawberries are a sweet, tasty and healthy berry that every gardener grows on his site.
To preserve the varietal qualities of strawberries and get a high-quality harvest every year, it is necessary to properly prepare the seedlings.

The most common and easiest way is to propagate strawberries with a mustache.

Consider the features of the reproduction of garden strawberries with a mustache, how to choose the right bushes, root the outlet and transplant the seedlings to a permanent place.

How to propagate strawberries with a mustache

Sometimes gardeners try to simultaneously harvest from the bushes and use the same strawberry bushes for cultivation. But this approach is not correct, the plants are quickly depleted, strawberries give a lower yield, it starts to hurt, the berries become worse in quality.

If you have strawberry bushes with good varietal qualities, make a choice, either you want to get a harvest of berries, or a mustache for propagation.

If you think that you can take a mustache from the bushes after harvesting the berries, such seedlings will not be complete, since the plants have already spent most of the nutrients to obtain berries, the mustache will be weak. You cannot force plants to work on two fronts, they will quickly exhaust their resource.

Propagation of strawberries using uterine bushes

To obtain a high-quality strawberry bed, it is necessary to select uterine bushes - the key to proper reproduction.

To do this, in the first year of planting strawberries, all the mustaches are removed from all bushes, waiting for the berry harvest.

Of all the plants, those that are not sick are chosen, those that have better tolerated the vagaries of the weather, with large berries of the same size.

In various ways, such bushes should be noted (with a stick, a sticker, a cloth), the main thing is to be visible. These are future mother bushes. In order not to get confused, you can plant such bushes on separate beds, according to the scheme 40 cm between the bushes and 80 cm between the rows.

The next year, do not bloom on uterine bushes, remove all buds. Plants will put all their energy into the development of the whiskers. Already in June, the bushes will begin to give a mustache with rosettes. For reproduction, leave only a powerful and large mustache, remove all others.

The best option is to leave one outlet closest to the mother bush. If there is a need for a large number of seedlings, you can also use the second sockets.

When roots appear on the sockets for further development, there are two options:

The first option, you can pin the outlet to the ground, water and care without cutting it off from the mother bush, like seedlings.

The second option is considered the best, plant each outlet in a separate pot with soil, where the root system will develop before transplanting.

The transplantation takes place together with an earthen lump without damaging the root system, the plants quickly take root and take root in a new place.

2 weeks before transplanting to a new place, you should trim the mustache from the mother bushes so that they get used to feeding on their own. Plant the plants in a new permanent place in July-August. Strawberry seedlings will have time to form and get stronger before the first frost.

Within 2-3 years you will receive strawberry seedlings. Bushes 2-3 years old give more whiskers than in the first year.

After 3 years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes by the same selection.

Here is such a simple and reliable way to propagate strawberries with a mustache. We hope the article will be useful to you when growing strawberries in your area.

Good luck and big strawberry harvests!

How to properly plant and plant strawberries in spring (with photo and video)

Before you breed strawberries, you need to find out if all varieties can be independently propagated in your area with a mustache? The vast majority of strawberry varieties reproduce very well with a mustache, but you should still know that the newest varieties and hybrids of large-fruited strawberries are mustacheless. They can be vegetatively propagated only by dividing the bush, but this method is considered unproductive, because the horns quickly degenerate after division. Small-fruited strawberries can be renewed from their own seeds. Seeds or seedlings of large-fruited hybrids will only have to be bought. Classic remontant varieties (Queen Elizabeth II, Brighton, Tribute) and some modern intensive types produce whiskers, but in very limited quantities and, as a rule, with additional stimulation with growth regulators. For this reason, it is problematic to reproduce them on your own in the garden, and you will also have to often buy them in nurseries.

See how to plant strawberries in spring in the photo, where the optimal schemes are presented:

Most of the usual varieties of domestic breeding belong to varieties with good assimilation ability, it is quite possible to multiply them independently in your area for several years.

In the first year after planting the acquired seedlings, plants of non-repairable varieties form a huge number of whiskers, which must be removed. In the 2nd and 3rd years of cultivation, when there is a real need for a mustache to replace plantings, mustache either does not form at all, or there are very few of them.

This problem is related to the biological characteristic of strawberry bushes. Indeed, the genetic program of plants is such that it is the youngest - juvenile - one-year-old plants that form the largest number of whiskers of the best quality. And the gardeners do not need a mustache at this moment. In all subsequent years, strawberry plants begin to lay more flower buds and fewer whiskers, and the need for whiskers is just growing. The experience of industrial workers and experienced amateur gardeners suggests that the optimal solution to this contradiction between biology and technology in the division of plantings into berry and mother gardens.

For berry-growers, we select the best place in terms of illumination and soil fertility on the site. To stimulate fruiting and flower buds, remove all whiskers.

The strawberry mother plant, from which we will receive only whiskers, can be placed to save usable area in the light penumbra zone, for example, in the near-trunk circles of fruit trees. The main requirement is fertile, loose, constantly moist soil. Here we plant young plants in spring, from which in May-June we remove the formed peduncles, but leave the mustache. Such one-year-old plants and grown mustache at the end of summer will be suitable for transplanting into a berry field.

We offer you to see how to properly plant strawberries in the spring on a video where all the work ahead of you is filmed:

Planting strawberries with a mustache in August. Recommendations for planting strawberries in August

For seedlings to take root faster, choose a good mustache and follow some rules of crop rotation. A bountiful annual strawberry harvest is influenced by a well-organized crop rotation.

Features of the choice of material for landing

Strawberry whiskers of the first and second order are suitable for planting. Take seedlings for planting in August, which have:

strong stems;
from three leaves on one seedling;
leaves without white or black spots;
roots at least 5 cm long;
the thickness of the horn is more than 0.7 cm.

Pay attention not only to the mustache, but also to the strawberry bushes themselves. Look for healthy, sturdy young plants that have yielded well.

Important!

Each bush gives a so-called male and female mustache. According to statistics, the latter are more productive. They appear later and are ready to plant in August.

Strawberry precursors

When planting garden strawberries in August, alternate with other crops and do not grow berries in one place for more than 4 years. The best antecedent crops are:

garlic;
onion;
dill;
mustard;
legumes;
salad;
grain crops;
radish;
parsley.

Important!

Different varieties of garden strawberries planted together can produce unequal yields. During growth, the mustache will intertwine, it will be difficult for you to determine which one. Plant garlic between the different varieties of strawberries, just as experienced gardeners do.

Features of soil preparation for strawberries

Proper soil preparation for strawberries in August is the next stage after the formation of the garden and the choice of the mustache for planting. The bushes grow well on light, fertile soil without pests and fungal spores. Make sure it is breathable and has an acidity of 5-6 pH. Humus or sod land is best for growing garden strawberries. But the berry grows well in a bed with medium loamy soil, if organic fertilizers and baking powder, for example, sawdust, are added to it.

After summer, pathogenic bacteria, pests, and fungal spores are present in the soil. Therefore, disinfect the ground before planting with ammonia water (distribute 300 ml per 1 square meter) or Roundal.

Fertilizing the soil

A high salt content in the ground is unacceptable for garden strawberries. Apply fertilizer under the predecessor crop or when forming a bed. So that they dissolve well in the soil, embed them deeply.

For loamy soil, it is enough to add a bucket of completely rotted manure, peat or compost for each square meter. They can be replaced with nitroammophos or nitrophosphate (for 1 sq. M two tbsp. / L.). Spread two or three buckets per square of manure, humus, or compost if the area is sandy. Turf and sawdust can be added. In heavy loamy and clayey soils, add river sand 3-4 kg / sq. m and 2-3 buckets of manure or compost. Thoroughly remove weeds from the soil, mark and form ridges.

Strawberry planting scheme

Most often, four schemes are used for growing a crop:

compacted;
30 cm x 60 cm;
40 cm x 60 cm;
40 cm x 70 cm.

The first option is suitable for seedlings. The yield depends on the density of planting of young plants. Plant 20-25 sockets on one square. After removing the first berries, dig out every second bush and transplant it to another bed according to the 40x60 cm scheme.Plant garden strawberries of the early varieties according to the 30x60 cm scheme.Observe the distance between young plants of 80 cm and make sure that the mustache does not intertwine.

For planting according to the 40x60 cm scheme, choose mid-season plants and more powerful bushes of late varieties that form large rosettes. Plant bushes in black soil according to the 40x70 cm scheme.For this method, medium and late ripening varieties are suitable.

Information!

You can plant strawberries in both single-row and double-row methods.

Rules for planting strawberries in August

After all the preparatory work, plant young plants in the garden. In doing so, follow these simple rules:

Make a small bump of soil in the seedling hole.
Gently spread the roots over the tubercle, straighten them. Trim long roots.
Root so that the rosette protrudes slightly from the ground. If you plant too deep, the plant will die, otherwise it will dry out.
Water the seedlings abundantly by adding a growth stimulant, for example, HB 101, to the water.
Mulch or cover the bed with agrofibre to keep out cold and weeds.

Mustache trimming and rooting

If the propagation of strawberries with a mustache was planned in advance and the bush from which the layers will be taken is already known, then they begin to cut and plant them in the spring, preventing the mother plant from bearing fruit. You need to cut off the layers with a sharp pruner. Cut off the mustache so that the shoot on which it grew remains near the main bush. A piece of shoot 1.5 - 2 cm long is left near the layering. When planting in the ground, it should be above the ground.

The place above the root, from where the leaves of a young seedling grow - a heart, is left on the surface of the soil, otherwise it will begin to rot and the seedlings will not take root. The entire horse system is placed underground and compacted.

When planted in late summer, the mustache is trimmed after fruiting. If very powerful seedlings are outlined, they can be rooted in pots and left for a while near the mother plant, without separating from it. This will keep the root system intact and accelerate the survival rate of seedlings before frost.

How to plant strawberries in autumn on agrofibre. How to plant?

You can plant strawberries under agrofibre in spring and autumn. But it is preferable in spring - in this case, there are more chances of successful rooting of plants and further abundant harvests. Planting strawberry bushes under agrofibre has several stages. Let us consider this process in detail.

Spreading agrofibre

When the beds are prepared, dug up and leveled, it is necessary to lay the spunbond correctly. The covering material is laid as evenly as possible on the garden bed, fixing on the sides with stones, cobblestones.

It is better not to use a brick for fastening, as it tears the material. You can also make wire pins with which the fiber is fixed: a piece of linoleum should lie on top of the material so that the spunbond does not break.

If it is necessary to use more than one piece of spunbond, but two or three, they are laid with an overlap with a gap of about 20 cm. Otherwise, the edges of the material will disperse soon, and weeds will necessarily germinate from the holes formed.

Caution: Provide paths wide enough between the beds to facilitate strawberry care and harvesting.

Seedling selection

If you started planting strawberries in the spring, it is better to take already formed young seedlings, and if in the fall, it is better to take antennae from the current harvest (from the strongest and most prolific bushes).

Examine the planting material: it must be strong and healthy, not damaged. If bushes of seedlings with podoprevnye roots are found, it is better to get rid of such material - it will be difficult to leave podoprevny bushes, and the harvest is not guaranteed. Seedling material must have a well-developed root system. There should be at least five leaves: intact, healthy.

Before planting bushes in the beds, you should harden them. For about a week, take them outside for a while, making them longer every day.

If there are too many containers with seedlings, and it is problematic to take them out every day, you can put the seedlings in a cool room for several days - also a kind of hardening.

Landing

Scheme:

Mark the landing pattern on the spunbond canvas. Use chalk to mark the cuts - where the bushes will be. The best distance between strawberry bushes grown under agrofibre is considered to be 40 cm, between rows - 30 cm. This is the optimal planting pattern.

The cuts on the fiber are made crosswise, 10 × 10 cm. It is better to turn the bending corners of the cut holes outward. In the sections, holes are dug: deep for seedlings from cups and smaller ones for soil seedlings. The holes are most conveniently made with a round stick. Make a notch on the stick, to which you will bury.

For information: if you try, you can find on sale or order on the Internet a special agrofibre for strawberries with ready-made cuts in the right places.

Dip each bush in a clay / water solution to strengthen the plants. In addition, immediately before planting, the roots of the seedlings must be dipped in a pre-prepared solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Dig in the bushes so that their above-ground part is sure to look out from under the material. Otherwise, the bush may simply "suffocate". Once the seedlings are in place, tuck the corners of the agrofibre cuts inward. Water the plants liberally. Landing completed.

How to plant in open ground

Strawberry planting patterns
It is better to prepare a bed for strawberries in the spring so that the earth settles after digging and is filled with the applied fertilizers. There are 4 ways to plant strawberry seedlings:

Separate bushes - at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other.
In rows: row spacing - 40 cm, between bushes - 20 cm.
Nests. One plant is planted in the center and 6 more around it at a distance of 5-8 cm. The row spacing is left 40 cm. Between the nests in a row, 25-30 cm are kept.
Carpet. Bushes and whiskers grow spontaneously.

The first method requires a large land area and time for weeding the plants. A significant disadvantage of growing strawberries with a carpet is that the berries quickly become smaller, the culture is reborn. The most popular way is to plant seedlings in rows. It is of two types:

One line. The strawberries propagated by the mustache are planted in rows at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. The row spacing is left 60-80 cm.
Two-line. Between the bushes they stand 20-40 cm, and the rows are broken at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

We transplant strawberries in the fall. When to transplant strawberries - fall or spring

In one place, strawberries bear fruit for no more than 4 years, after which they need a transplant.

The fact is that during this time, pathogens and pests accumulate in the soil, which negatively affect the development of the plant. The amount of useful elements also decreases, so the seedlings are more likely to get sick, and the yield decreases.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries? Work can be done in spring, summer and autumn.

Keep in mind that with a spring planting, you will receive the first flowering only next spring. Whereas with autumn planting, the berries will appear in the summer.

Photo:

Here are the main benefits of an autumn transplant:

Minimal care.

Warmed moist soil, abundance of rain create optimal conditions for plant rooting. In this case, you do not need to pay much attention to watering and weeding the beds.

Good survival rate.

Until the first frost, the bushes will get stronger, take root, and grow a new outlet. Therefore, a strong plant will already winter, which will tolerate cold and frost well.

If there are several beds on the site, you can replant one every year. An abundance of berries is guaranteed every season. It is also important to identify a new location for the strawberries.

Photo:

The best precursors for berries are greens, legumes, radishes, and carrots. Poor yield will be if you plant strawberries after potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers. These plants become infected with diseases, which then spread to the berry bushes.

How to choose the right strawberry mustache for breeding

For further planting, healthy rosettes with a well-developed root system should be left. The rosettes are not separated from the mother plant until 3 large leaves grow on them. The leaves must be healthy. A mustache from a fruiting bush is unsuitable for planting. Most of the nutrients in such a plant went to the growth of berries. The mustache of this strawberry is weak and not suitable for planting.

How to plant strawberries in autumn with a mustache. Planting strawberries in autumn is better than spring

Cons of planting strawberries in spring

Planting strawberries in autumn is recognized as the most fruitful. Unlike spring strawberries, planted before winter will give a decent harvest in spring. Why is the autumn planting of strawberries better than spring ones, you ask ?! The fact is that when planting strawberries in the spring, it is difficult to meet the deadlines. The soil moves away from frost, is saturated with moisture and it is simply not possible to go out into the garden. You have to wait until moisture evaporates from the soil and it will be possible to process it. This can take more than one month. And if spring rains are frequent, then planting is postponed for two, or even three months. Until early summer. Together with it, the temperature rises and the heat sets in.

In such conditions, strawberries are stressed and very sick. In my practice, it was such that out of 100% planted strawberries, only 60% took root over the summer. The strawberry root system developed very hard. This despite the fact that I watered it abundantly and often, and also covered it with agrofibre. Those bushes that took off gave a mustache, but they were very weak. That is, the season was lost for me, since I failed to multiply strawberries that year. I had to buy new seedlings and plant them in “bald spots” to replenish the rows. I no longer plant strawberries in the spring, but many are very successful at this. Thanks to the climate. Therefore, experiment.

Pros of planting strawberries in autumn

But if you meet the deadlines and plant strawberries in the fall, such problems are no longer observed. Strawberries are very well accepted and in winter they leave with a developed root system. The reason is this. Strawberries are planted in autumn when the heat has already lost ground. The temperature drops and it starts to rain. The soil in which the strawberry roots are already "sitting" is constantly moist. Thus, the plant develops in a comfortable environment. Strawberries, before the onset of stable frosts, have time to build up a powerful root system and calmly go into winter. In the spring, with the first warming, strawberries wake up and the root system begins to absorb nutrients from the soil very quickly, thereby nourishing the plant.

The warmer the soil and air become, the faster the development of the strawberry bush proceeds. The leaves become powerful and rich. This is very noticeable. Almost every day you can see how the strawberry bush becomes more powerful. When a strawberry is planted in the fall, it sprouts earlier. Consequently, the berry is formed and ripens much earlier. There is every chance of an early harvest. Here I can boast. I pick strawberries a week and a half earlier than all my neighbors. So I am doing everything right and my work is not in vain.

Let's fix: for a successful planting of strawberries in the spring, the soil must be prepared in the spring, otherwise there will be a delay in planting due to precipitation. Strawberries are planted in autumn in prepared (in August-September) soil - until the heavy rains begin.

Optimal breeding time

The mustache formed at the beginning of summer gives the highest quality planting material. The rooted rosettes are separated from the mother bush after 2 months. If you plant strawberry seedlings in the summer, they will get stronger, prepare for winter and will bear fruit next season.

Dates may vary due to the climatic conditions of the area.The readiness of the planting material can be judged by a well-developed rosette (4-5 true leaves) and a powerful root system (more than 7 cm long). You need to transplant strawberries on a cloudy, damp day.

Rooting strawberries in a pot

Planting strawberries in autumn fertilization. When to feed strawberries and why is it important?

Experienced gardeners have developed a consistent fertilization schedule for garden strawberries:

in spring - when the snow melts, before the beginning of the growing season;
in summer - at the end of fruiting;
autumn - until the first frost.

Do not feed the strawberries when the berries have already appeared on them. Otherwise, the crop will taste like fertilized and may acquire toxic properties.

The autumn stage of caring for perennial plants consists of feeding and preparing for winter. It was during this period that the foundations of the future harvest were laid.

Autumn feeding of garden strawberries is performed twice:

In early September, when the leaves are still green.
In the second half of October, before the cold snap.

The timing can be slightly adjusted depending on the climate and the variety of berries. The repairing strawberry will give birth in September. You can carry out the first feeding immediately after harvesting the fruits, but always before the onset of cold weather.

Autumn feeding of strawberries has the following effect:

strengthens bushes that have weakened after abundant fruiting;
increases the quality of the soil depleted during the season, improves air permeability, which is very important for maintaining moisture;
stimulates the formation of fruit buds.

Without autumn feeding, the plant will weaken its immunity to diseases, and young shoots may not survive the harsh winter. As a result, the farm will incur unjustified losses.

How to fertilize strawberries?

To feed garden strawberries, the following are used:

organic compounds;
minerals;
combining a mixture of organics and minerals;
complex preparations.

Selection of strawberry varieties

Before planting the bushes, you still need to choose the right variety. Mustaches give only those varieties that originate from wild strawberries and bear fruit once a year. But there are also those varieties that were derived from nutmeg or strawberries. This is a slightly different type of strawberry that does not produce whiskers and its plants are male and female. And only women bear fruit. Although the varieties that were bred from this plant are almost never found, since they were everywhere replaced by ordinary garden strawberries. Although the name is strawberry and stuck with her.

Bezusovy are called, first of all, those varieties that belong to remontant garden strawberries, or, as it is also called, garden strawberries of continuous fruiting. Their reproduction is carried out using seeds. Strawberries give a mustache, but in small quantities. In addition, seedlings obtained from these mustaches are usually not very vigorous. And it is not suitable for further cultivation. Here are examples of similar varieties:

Strawberry "San Andreas"
Strawberry "Monterey"
Strawberry "Albion"
Strawberry "Queen Elizabeth"

All these are remontant varieties. They are tasty, bear fruit from the first year, and the fruiting period lasts from May to October. But mustache breeding is not available to them. For the inexperienced gardener, it is better to choose unpretentious plants from early, middle or late varieties. In order not to be mistaken with the choice of the variety, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the photo and video, which show the shape of the leaves and berries of the variety of interest to the gardener. Here are the most interesting varieties:

Early strawberry "Honey"
Early strawberry "Anita"
Medium grade "Marshal"
Medium grade Moskovskaya Yubileinaya or "Mashenka"
Late variety "Princess Diana"
Late grade "Maestro"

Strawberries in the fall. Strawberry and strawberry care in autumn

This article explains how to care for strawberry and wild strawberry bushes in the fall. The issues of feeding plants in the fall are highlighted, as well as methods of shelter for the winter.

We are all looking forward to summer to be able to enjoy two delicious berries - strawberries and wild strawberries. Just in order to get a rich harvest from these plants, you need to pay attention to them and properly care for them.

In the fall, strawberries and strawberries need care and attention. Care is to prepare the plants for hibernation, to enable them to safely survive the cold and frost. Correct autumn care will also contribute to a good harvest next year.

The main care for strawberries and strawberries is weeding, loosening the soil near the bushes, as well as proper dressing.

If everything is clear with the first two actions, then the situation with feeding is more complicated. It is important to know some of the nuances that will protect the bushes from damage.

Feeding strawberries and strawberries

You can feed berry bushes in spring and autumn. But the best time for this is after fruiting.

How to feed berry bushes?

Berry bushes must be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers. Many summer residents have a negative attitude to mineral fertilizers, arguing that it is "chemistry" that is deposited in the fruit. With a reasonable approach and the correct dosage, nothing bad will happen - all substances will be used by the plant for growth. The main thing is not to overdo it. Both those and other fertilizers are necessary for the plant to the same extent.

1. From organic fertilizers, the bushes can be fed with infusion of chicken manure, mullein or slurry. Do not use pork droppings for feeding. It is important to make sure that the solution does not get on the leaves or stem of the plants - in this case, the bushes may "burn".

2. Wood ash can be considered an alternative to mineral fertilizers in powders. It is analogous to superphosphate and potassium salt. They usually bring it into the ground, but sometimes sprinkle it on top to repel pests. If there is no wood ash, then you can use the aforementioned fertilizers - superphosphate and potassium salt.

If you feed correctly, then next spring the plants will not need to be fed. However, with poor development of the bushes, you should repeat the feeding in early spring.

In the fall, it is important to prepare strawberry and wild strawberry bushes for wintering. Frosts on "bare" ground, that is, without snow, pose a great danger to them. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen sometimes. To avoid this situation, it is necessary to cover the bushes.

Strawberry and strawberry shelter options

1. The ideal material for shelter is straw. It performs three functions - insulates, traps snow and serves as an organic fertilizer. You need to put straw in a dense layer between the rows of bushes.

2. If there is no straw, a mixture of peat and compost is suitable. Before making it, each berry bush must be slightly spud. After that, you can safely pour the mixture under the bushes.

3. Another alternative to straw, which is available to any summer resident, is fallen leaves. Suitable for shelter and stalks of corn, spruce branches, you can use shelters that are sold in specialized stores - lutrasil, spunbond.

Before leaving the strawberry bushes for the winter, it is necessary to spud them, since the rhizomes (adventitious roots) can come out and become bare. In this case, they will freeze, which means that fruiting will decrease. At the same time, it is important not to cover the growth point with earth or fertilizers - the place from which the leaves depart.

Such preparation of strawberries and strawberries will help the plants survive the winter safely and give a good harvest next year. And in order for the crop to be even richer, sweeter and better, then fertilizer must be applied immediately after fruiting. Until autumn, the bushes will grow, overgrow with new leaves, which means that the amount of harvest will increase.

How to properly care for strawberries in spring, summer and autumn

Autumn processing of strawberries. Strawberry care in the fall. Strawberry

Autumn when the heat subsides, you need to remove some of the leaves and grass. Make watering.

Choosing the right mother bush

So, even a season before you plan to separate the layers from the strawberry bush, it can be noted by highlighting it from the total mass. Examine it, take a closer look at those rosettes from which most of the largest and identical-sized berries were obtained (naturally, and tasty). If everything is so, then why not tie a scarlet ribbon to this bush or stick a peg with the same ribbon next to it?

In addition, many gardeners try to kill two birds with one stone, they buy expensive strawberry seedlings and do their best to get berries and mustaches from it (allowing literally all mustache to grow, because this is a precious planting material, they believe), which very often corny leads to severe depletion of the bush and its long recovery.

But in order to collect strawberries and grow a normal, and not an insane amount of mustache, you need to endure only a year, allowing the mother bushes to bear fruit normally. All you need to do is to postpone the breeding season to the next year, but during this time, observing the bushes, you can easily identify those rosettes that will give the maximum yield.

Next year, leave only a couple of antennae on the plant, maybe three, and mercilessly remove the rest, however, like the peduncles, this will allow the plant to redirect all its energy to the formation of seedlings, and fully developed.

The correct choice of the mother bush is the key to healthy strawberry seedlings.

Features of remontant strawberries

The cultivars belonging to the group of remontant species differ from the traditional garden strawberries in terms of budding and in relation to daylight hours.

There are two types:

long daylight hours (DSD);
neutral daylight hours (NDM).

The first for buds and flowering needs at least 12 hours. For plants of the second type (NSD), duration is not important. The buds are laid every 5-6 weeks, and development takes up to 14 days.

For remontant varieties of DSD, berries are harvested at the beginning of summer, and then the harvest can be expected in August and September. From "neutrals" fruits are harvested during the summer season and later, until frost. Such varieties require abundant watering, complex fertilizing. They must be grown on fertile soil, otherwise the plants will not show their potential.

Many varieties do not have a mustache or are few of them, differ in small foliage, compactness. With intensive fruiting, the bushes quickly degenerate, therefore, constant rejuvenation of the plantings is necessary. At the same time, they do not forget about the observance of crop rotation, otherwise even high-quality healthy seedlings are easily affected by dangerous infections and pests.

The line of remontant varieties includes representatives of foreign (Holland, Great Britain, France, Italy) and domestic selection. Large-fruited hybrid and varietal forms, garden strawberries with small, but fragrant and sweet berries were bred.

For each species, they select their own breeding method, taking into account the characteristics of the plant, the climatic conditions of the region, and their own capabilities.

Plot

14 votes

Voice for!

—

Against!

Everyone who is engaged in an agricultural business or grows strawberries on a personal plot, with the advent of the season, tries to multiply and transplant them in order to get a big harvest. This is facilitated not only by weather factors, but also by effective methods of growing strawberries, as well as methods of breeding its varieties. Each variety of this aromatic dessert berry has its own preferences. The reproduction of strawberries of different varieties differs in many ways, and this is worth talking about in more detail.

What soil is needed to grow strawberries?

Strawberries are a soil-demanding crop and are grown in places where there is enough moisture and nutrients. But in order to give a bountiful harvest, this plant draws a lot of trace elements, so soil resources are quickly depleted. Abundant watering and fertilization does not always solve this problem, so strawberry seedlings are planted on new prepared soil. In areas where the seedlings of this plant previously bore fruit, after 3-5 years fungi and viruses start up, and it is advisable to transplant the strawberries to a new place. The plant is depleted in 3-4 years, and the site needs updating.

Agronomists recommend growing this crop on fertile soils with a slightly acidic reaction and a sufficient content of sand, loam and humus. A plentiful harvest will be guaranteed by an even and sufficiently humid area, for example, where groundwater is close, but not in excess. If there is too much spring moisture on the site, then strawberry cultivation is recommended to be done in raised beds.

On depleted sandy soils, even good varieties of elite dessert berries do not give the expected yield, the fruits will be smaller than indicated in the catalogs. In order for strawberries to give a good harvest, the area that has been allocated for strawberry seedlings must be fertilized a couple of months before planting, and then periodically domesticated.

An open and well-lit area, where there are no drafts and strong winds, is suitable for a plantation of garden strawberries or strawberries. For the cultivation of this royal berry under the film (and with other cultivation technologies), any flat area or with a slight slope, to which watering is connected, is suitable. Strawberry - photo:

In the northern regions, strawberries also grow well, as the experience of the Scandinavian countries confirms, but zoned varieties adapted to the conditions of a short summer are needed. And the time of spring planting of strawberries shifts closer to summer, and in July-August it ripens. In mountainous terrain, only the southern slopes are suitable, since it needs a lot of heat and light.

Attention: In low-lying areas that are too humid, many varieties of strawberries are susceptible to disease and rot, slugs and other parasites affect it. Enhanced treatment with special preparations and chemicals is required.

By the type of fruiting, strawberry varieties are distinguished:

early;
medium ripening (most productive);
all-season and remontant (bear fruit for a longer period or twice a summer);
with a late fruiting period.

Advice: Use 2-3 varieties of this crop on the site, especially in the zone of risky farming. And if one variety is damaged by late frosts or other weather and climatic factors, another variety of berries will be harvested. The same advice applies to beginners who are inexperienced in how to grow strawberries.

Attention: When growing strawberries on large plantations, you will have to master all possible methods of breeding strawberries of the cultivated variety, since the annual purchase is unprofitable.

Seedlings of some varieties do not take root well on soil with an excess of calcium, which is why some of the young strawberry bushes do not take root. When planting in a prepared watered hole with the addition of sand, it is important that the roots of the seedlings are not bare, but with a small earthy clod. Then it is more likely that the berry plant will take root well and give a bountiful harvest, as in the example - strawberries, photo:

Landing technology

Strawberry bushes are planted in spring and late summer, when the fruiting season is over, but the plant is still vigorous. It is impossible to indicate the exact date, since each region has its own terms, especially since a lot depends on weather factors.

The best time for transplanting cropped plant rosettes is a slight summer cold snap or spring warming. In order not to harm strawberry seedlings, planting is carried out in cloudy weather, in the late afternoon.The seedlings will look sick for some time, then they will acclimatize and begin to actively develop before fruiting. The best indicator that a young bush has taken root in spring is flowering, and in summer there are no signs of plant degradation. After transplanting, while the roots are weak, it is imperative to water the strawberries often a little.

Attention: Do not plant sluggish, rotten, disease-infected and nematode sockets next to healthy plants - they will transfer diseases to high-quality planting material! The weak and wilted will draw life-giving juices from the soil for a long time, and even if they do not dry out, they are unlikely to give a crop in the first year of planting.

Before planting, it is important to carefully examine each outlet, remove the bottom dry or damaged leaves at the beginning of the petiole. If the root system is bare, then it is advisable to treat them with special antiseptics and spread the roots before planting, but so that there are no creases. When filling strawberry seedlings with moist soil, make sure that the roots do not bend upward, and the short core from which the roots and leaves grow should not be deepened below ground level. But they also should not be set high, so that the roots do not dry out.

After planting, each plant is immediately watered - in a gentle way at the roots. But make sure that the soil is not constantly waterlogged, otherwise the seedlings will begin to rot, and near their roots there will be a favorable environment for fungi and nematodes. If everything is done correctly, then there will be no further problems with how to care for strawberries.

Attention: Culled, with signs of disease, bushes should not be left in the beds, especially if they are elite varieties of Dutch selection. They are removed and burned to prevent diseases and pests from spreading to healthy rows.

During the season, a healthy bush will form, capable of overwintering and giving a bountiful harvest for the next year. During spring planting, young rosettes of many varieties of berries are also capable of blooming to give the first fruits, but usually they are not large. But it will be clear from them that that variety was purchased.

Tip: Buy seedlings from reputable suppliers or elite selection catalogs. As a rule, the consumer buys exactly what is indicated in the catalog, but the plant will look spectacular, as in the illustration, only with appropriate care.

Carefully read the instructions, which indicate the features of caring for the purchased variety. The landing dates are conditional, since they are adjusted by natural factors:

weather and climatic features of the region;
prolonged rains;
sudden changes in temperature;
long cold spring;
late soil frosts;
sudden summer heat during strawberry transplanting season, etc.

Strawberry propagation

They receive strawberry seedlings on their own or buy ready-made ones. There are several ways to propagate strawberries:

dividing the bush;
seeds from fruits;
layering (separate rosettes from the mustache).

With elite selection of large-fruited varieties, plants are often obtained that do not have vegetative layers with new bushes. For repair strawberries and strawberries without a mustache, planting material is obtained only from dividing bushes or when germinating mature seeds from large fruits. But even in this case, it is not always possible to get a sufficient number of young seedlings:

the core in some varieties is too small and solid, and it cannot be separated;
seeds do not always give the expected germination.

Dividing a bush is an effective way of propagation, especially when the plant can be divided into small fragments that have their own root system. To do this, healthy and especially "curly" plants are carefully dug up and manually divided or cut, leaving a whole bud or growth point. It is advisable to treat a cut or break with antiseptics and sprinkle it with ash to protect it from rot.As a rule, such a vegetation is only beneficial to the plant, and the bush bears fruit like a young plant. However, this method is not suitable for some varieties of strawberries.

The easiest way to propagate strawberries is to cut off the mustache of the mother bush with ready-made rosettes. Such seedlings are not damaged, have a ready-made root system and a solid core. The strongest and most developed rosettes are those that are closer to the main plant. For the formation of high-quality material for seedlings, the ends of the mustache are cut off, leaving 2-3 formed "children". If the layers are strong and healthy, then up to 5 young bushes are left, but those closer to the ends are usually weak and small.

Some varieties of strawberries of garden strawberries have such a well-developed mustache that when rooting the first layers, it is possible to stop the mustache. They are cut off from the mother plant, which will give new strong shoots. But this is not worth doing if there is no skill, experienced gardeners do this, knowing the right time.

In case of unsuccessful cropping of the mustache and without rooting of young rosettes, you can destroy the uterine bush, wanting to transplant it to another place, and "children". But on a strong mother plant there may be several mustaches with healthy rosettes, and it is possible to get up to 12-15 fully developed "children" per season. Formed and rooted seedlings from the mustache are cut off with a pruner, undermined from the root and the lower leaves are removed. For young strawberries, 4-5 strong young leaves and a bunch of roots up to 5-7 cm are enough.

The cut seedlings are tied in small bunches and the roots are lowered into the earthen slurry in cans. It is best to form a liquid earthen lump at the roots for each young plant separately, tying it with cellophane, which is pierced from above in 2 places. In this form, they can be laid out in boxes until the disembarkation period. It is in this form that the elite seedlings are supplied to buyers by Dutch firms or agar companies cooperating with them.

It is advisable to line boxes with cropped whole seedlings with moistened sawdust, peat or moss. Ideally, the prepared seedlings are planted immediately, or they do it the next day. It is undesirable to simultaneously grow crops and form rosettes for reproduction on mother bushes - both berries and young rosettes are depleted. Bushes with several healthy layers and formed layers are cleaned of peduncles. The highest quality varietal seedlings will be obtained from young lush bushes, bearing fruit for 1-2 years.

Transporting strawberry seedlings to the rooting site

If it is not possible to plant young outlets in the near future, or if strawberry seedlings are to be transported, the "kids" can be seated in disposable cups with moist soil. At the bottom of the glass, a mixture of sand and sawdust is first laid, then filled with moist earth around the roots. The bottom layer of sawdust protects the roots from souring, and they have where to grow.

If desired, a layer of sawdust and sand for the cups is sprayed with a solution that stimulates the growth of the root system. In this form, young shoots are placed in boxes and transported before planting. When the time comes to root them in the ground, the entire contents of the glass are laid out in moistened planting holes, carefully removing the young rosette from the plastic container. Any other seedlings are transported by the same method.

Seedlings bought on the side can be affected by diseases that are not visible at first glance. It happens that the cores and roots begin to massively rot and degrade.

Tip: To avoid trouble, rinse all the roots with a solution of table salt and copper sulfate. For 1 bucket, 3 tablespoons of salt and 1 vitriol are enough, and strawberry roots are immersed in it for 10-15 minutes and then rinsed and planted in well-moistened pits.

Early varieties are planted on the beds quite densely, since they have a small bush - after 15-20 cm, row spacing - about half a meter.The rest of the varieties are planted after 30-40 cm with wider row spacings.

Features of growing garden strawberries and strawberries:

on wet soil, high slides are made in rows to raise the root system;
depleted loamy soil should be fertilized with peat or humus with sand;
fertilizers are applied between harvests in the beds (check with a specialized store for your type of soil);
wood ash will not harm, and chlorine and lime are destructive for this agriculture;
there should be no weeds on the site, and earthworms and garden parasites and slugs in the soil (they do not like sand);
the best characteristics of the variety are preserved only when propagated by layering and cross-pollination, and when germinating seeds, elite varieties lose some of their excellent properties;
whiskers on strawberries are formed only with a long day of light; in the greenhouses of the northern regions, intense artificial lighting is required.

Attention: Strawberries do not like neighborhoods with many garden crops! Do not plant radishes, peppers, onions, carrots, eggplants or potatoes between rows. Diseases of garden plants and parasites can also pass from them.

Benefits of breeding strawberries: what does it give the gardener

The renewal of berries can continue from spring to autumn, this allows the gardener to assess the situation, choose the variety he likes and take his time to breed it.
It is convenient to first get the harvest, and then evaluate the fruits and start dividing the mother liquor.
Strawberry seedlings have a high survival rate, it is equal to 90 percent.
The horns are part of an adult plant, so they are able to bear fruit the next season.
When dividing the healthiest bushes, your yield increases from year to year, the health of the plants is preserved, and the fruits are enlarged.

The only thing to be afraid of is the infection of the outlets, if the parent plant has a disease, it will definitely go to the horns. Therefore, in the event of a global defeat, it is better to acquire healthy material from neighbors or in a store.

Although strawberries can be planted throughout the warm season, it is best not to wait for cold days. Optimal autumn periods are October 1-15. If you get too late, you can expose your strawberries to some frost hazard.

If the root system has not formed properly, it is threatened with freezing. And the seedlings that survived in the winter, but not sufficiently strong due to the lack of powerful roots, will not give a harvest this year. It takes time for them to form a root rosette, which can provide the plant with sufficient nutrition for the formation of fruit buds.