Rose in the cold
Perennials are very popular with our gardeners. They do not need to be grown every year from seeds, occupying all the windowsills with seedlings. And if you pick them up according to the timing of flowering, then the garden will bloom and savor from early spring to late autumn.
But not all perennial flowers can withstand the winter cold and spring thaw. Some of them definitely need a reliable shelter, while others cannot be left in the ground at all. In this article, you will learn how to prevent your perennial beauties from dying and preserve them for future seasons.
Location and lighting
Sedum is a photophilous flower. He needs the brightest sunlight. Therefore, choose the window sills of the southern windows for his permanent residence, and neither blinds nor leaves of other plants should shade him. The sedum loves fresh air, so it will grow well outdoors in a sunny place, for example, on a balcony. He loves airing and is not afraid of drafts.
In winter, stonecrop requires lighting. Stonecrops with reddish leaves need the greatest amount of light, since even slight shading can spoil their appearance: internodes will begin to stretch, the leaves lose their bright color and, as a result, the plant loses its attractiveness.
Avens
It is a herbaceous plant with a tall, straight stem covered with soft pubescence. The leaves of the gravilata are located on long petioles and are collected in a basal rosette, which is formed from a long, creeping rhizome. The flowers are double or smooth, reaching 3 - 4 cm in diameter.
The plant does not tolerate winter colds well, therefore, during autumn processing, additional shelter is carried out with various materials. It is not recommended to prune old shoots, which will provide additional protection.
Temperature
In summer, the temperature should be high, 25-28 degrees. The sedum loves heat and tolerates even higher temperatures. He needs a cool wintering, about 14-18 grams, but well-lit, otherwise the shoots will stretch and deform. To do this, you can put the pot between the window frames or on the windowsill close to the window glass and arrange additional lighting with fluorescent or phytolamps. You can also take it out on a heated bright balcony, if you have one. If you have a sedum variety that can tolerate light frosts, then an unheated balcony or loggia will do.
Badan
This undersized plant is distinguished by large leathery leaves of a rich dark green color of various shapes and sizes. The flowers are bell-shaped in white, pink or lilac. Badan tolerates temperatures down to -35 degrees well.
Its distinctive feature is the ability of the leaves to change color first to bronze or dark red when cold weather sets in. In autumn, the leaves cover the ground densely, providing natural shelter for the root system.
Watering
Watering stonecrop should be more than moderate: it is better to underfill than overflow. The sedum stores water in the leaves and evaporates very little. If in doubt whether to water or not, it is best not to water. Even in the hottest summer, the soil in the pot should dry out thoroughly between waterings. For this reason, it is possible to add sedum to other flowers in a pot, but these flowers should not require frequent watering.
Sedum is a very tenacious plant.Facts are known that dried and squeezed between the leaves of a herbarium, sedum remains alive for a long time. Once in favorable conditions, it begins to grow again. Therefore, watering poorly dried soil in a pot is simply unacceptable.
In winter, soil moisture is reduced by half. But, no matter how little sedum needs watering, do not forget that this is not a desert cactus. Water at least once a week in summer and half as often in winter. And never let the water stagnate in the sump. This most often leads to the death of the plant.
It might be interesting: Hoya - home care tips
Sometimes sedum grows, covering the entire pot with a green linen, which makes it difficult to get to the ground when watering. Don't be fooled by those who advise pouring it through a sump or by submersion. Often, these methods lead to the death of the plant due to waterlogging. Better use a syringe without a needle.
Bloodroot
Cinquefoil is a herbaceous perennial, the inflorescences of which are located on long bare peduncles. Flowers, depending on the variety, can be colored white, yellow, pink and red.
To give the plant a neat appearance, formative pruning is carried out during the season. With the onset of autumn, dry inflorescences, broken, dried and old shoots can be removed from Potentilla. In the spring, branches are removed, thickening plantings, as well as shoots growing inside the shrub. To stimulate the growth of young stems, it is recommended to shorten them by 1/3 of their length.
Transfer
A young plant needs a transplant once every couple of years, an adult - once every 3-4 years. The sedum plant easily tolerates transplants, so it can be transplanted at any time of the year and even during flowering. The main thing is to handle it carefully, because the stems of the sedum are quite brittle, and the leaves tend to fall off with any careless touch. Moisten the soil a little before transplanting.
For the first time, it is better to hold the transplanted bush in partial shade and not disturb. The next watering is done only after the topsoil is completely dry 1 cm deep.
After transplanting, the plant may shed its leaves. It's okay, this is normal, new ones will grow soon.
Pot
Stonecrop has a small root system, so a low, wide pot with drainage holes is perfect. It is not necessary to change it to a larger one with each transplant, because the roots of the plant develop slowly and do not take up much space. A drainage layer should be placed on the bottom of the pot. It is desirable that it was expanded clay, but pebbles are also suitable.
It may be interesting: Decembrist (Schlumberger, Rozhdestvennik, Zigokaktus) - care, reproduction and disease
Priming
Purchased succulent soil is suitable for sedum. If desired, you can cook it yourself. There are two suitable options:
- Stir in 1 teaspoon leafy earth, sod land and river sand. Add a small amount of bricks and charcoal pieces.
- Mix 2 tsp peat, 1 tsp rotted foliage, 1 tsp sand.
Heuchera
The plant is resistant to winter temperature drop. In the southern regions, it does not require shelter or other autumn processing. In a temperate climate, the shrub is covered with straw or spruce branches, since with a small snow cover, the root system can freeze out.
During autumn work, you should not remove branches and yellowed leaves. They will become an additional shelter in the winter cold.
Stonecrop propagation
The sedum multiplies easily and takes root quickly. There are several breeding methods with their pros and cons. We'll go over each of them in order.
Propagation by cuttings
Cutting is the easiest, fastest and most effective way to propagate sedum. Even leaves that have fallen from the mother bush to the ground in a pot are allowed to take root. By the way, they can also be taken for breeding.But more often part of the stem is used for this. It is not necessary to use a sharp tool to separate the cuttings or leaves - nothing terrible will happen if you just break off the desired part of the plant.
It is not worth planting a stalk right away. Let it sit for a couple of hours at room temperature - the cut should dry out. Then plant the cutting in a glass of earth or in a container if there are several. Do not deeply bury the cuttings in the soil. It is not necessary to create greenhouse conditions and cover the top with a film. Do not water often - if you are in wet soil for a long time, young stonecrop can rot. Ventilate the seedling room periodically.
After a couple of weeks, the cutting will take root. You will understand this by the appearance of new leaves on it. 2 weeks after root formation, the young succulent can be transplanted into a permanent pot.
Growing sedum from seeds
You can sow seeds in spring or autumn. You can get the planting material yourself, but it's easier to purchase it in the store. Only freshly harvested seeds have good germination, so pay attention to the expiration date indicated on the package.
Prepare a shallow, wide container and fill it with sand and peat soil. Seeds must be sown on the surface, without burying them in the ground or sprinkling them with soil on top. For this reason, the soil should be moistened before sowing. Also, to distribute all the seeds evenly throughout the container, they can be mixed with dry sand. Cover the container with plastic wrap.
In the open ground, sedum seeds undergo a process of natural stratification - they lie under the snow all winter at sub-zero temperatures. This speeds up their germination. At home, seeds also need stratification. To do this, place the container with the sown seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
After the stratification process, place the seeds on a well-lit windowsill. The room temperature should be above 18 ° C. In a couple of weeks, the first shoots will appear, but the seeds will finally germinate in about a month and a half. When two clearly visible leaves appear on the sprout, it can be transplanted into a separate pot.
It may be interesting: Opuntia - growing at home
Root division
Some types of sedum (Common, prominent, red-dotted) easily multiply by dividing the rhizomes, if they grow strongly. In early spring, remove the bush from the pot, shake off the soil and divide it into several parts so that each of them has growth points and buds. Treat the cut sites with fungicides or sprinkle with activated carbon. Wait a few hours for the slices to dry, then plant in separate pots.
Lungwort
Lungwort is an elegant, unpretentious plant that grows between trees and shrubs. It is distinguished by early and long flowering. The flower has a tall, erect stem, covered with short hairs. The flowers are formed at the top of the stem and are collected in scute inflorescences. The petals at the beginning of flowering are painted in a delicate pink color, over time the color changes to blue or purple.
Lungwort is good for winter frosts. For hybrid varieties, additional protection is required, for which fallen leaves or plant residues are used. Dried leaves should not be removed as they serve as root protection.
Diseases and pests
The sedum plant is rarely exposed to diseases and pests if it is looked after according to all the rules. Therefore, if you find that your instance is having a problem, review its containment terms. Now we will tell you what to look for in case of certain diseases.
Leaves dry or shrivel. Your stonecrop lacks moisture. Water the plant more often, but don't overdo it.
The stems are very elongated and have little foliage. This is due to a lack of lighting.It looks like your flower is not on the sunniest windowsill, or something is blocking it from direct sunlight. Move the pot to a lighter spot.
Rotting root system. We wrote above that in the winter, during the dormant period, it is necessary to reduce the watering of the plant. If this is not done, the roots of your stonecrop will rot. If this is the case, try reducing or stopping watering altogether. If the plant does not get better, separate the cuttings from it and start growing new specimens - this one cannot be saved.
Of pests, sedum can be attacked mealybug... Try to remove the parasites with a sponge and treat with insecticide. For small varieties of sedum that cannot be reached with a sponge, a cotton swab is suitable.
On large varieties of sedum can settle aphid... There are no special preparations for aphids for fatty plants. Treat it with any insecticide that won't burn the leaves, such as black currant.
Sometimes the plant is attacked weevil... The weevils themselves feed on the edges of the leaves, and their larvae damage the roots. During the day it will be difficult to find them, since weevils feed exclusively at night. You will have to arm yourself with a flashlight. Place white paper under the plant and shake off any insects on it when they go out to eat.
Arabis
It is an annual or perennial herb with a tall, straight stem and oval, with gray pubescence of leaves located on short petioles. In adult specimens, shoots may lie on the ground or fall down. Flowers of cream, white or lilac color are collected in cluster inflorescences.
Arabis grows very quickly, so they need a systematic haircut. So that the plant does not violate the boundaries in the composition, long shoots are pinched, and the cuttings are used for reproduction. Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring, when young shoots begin to grow in Arabis.
Possible difficulties in caring for a flower
At low temperatures and high humidity, stonecrops often suffer from fungal diseases. They appear as dark spots on stems and leaves. Affected plants destroy.
If the planting, storage, or care has been improper, the sedum can become sore. Due to unsuitable conditions, various diseases and pests appear. Despite the fact that most plants are quite resistant to this kind of trouble, there are also less resistant varieties. Sawflies and caterpillars do not spare stonecrop leaves. But you can lure them out with a leaf of lettuce or cabbage. And treat the plant itself with special means.
In case of high air humidity, fungal infection is possible.... The spots spread to the leaves and stem. In such cases, the damaged areas are removed and the plant is re-processed.
When populating a plant with aphids, the same means are used as for black currant. This treatment serves as an excellent protection and does not harm the flower itself.
Stonecrop sedum is considered a fairly common plant. He is loved not only for its decorative qualities when decorating a garden, but also for its healing properties (read about the amazing medicinal properties of purple, tenacious, large and caustic stonecrop, read here). Sedum, planting and caring for which were correct, will bloom very beautifully and unusually, decorating the garden. There are many types of stonecrop, so you can easily choose a plant to your taste..
3. Varieties:
3.1 Morgan's sedum - Sedum morganianum
A very attractive ampelous plant with small, juicy light green leaves and lodging stems. Leaves are oblong-pointed, rounded in cross section, easily break off and fall off when touched. In culture, it blooms quite rarely. The flowers appear at the ends of the shoots on leafless peduncles, have 5 pointed crimson or pink petals, attractive.
The main difficulty in growing this species is transplanting, since at the slightest touch, the plant loses its leaves and becomes less attractive.
↑ Up,
3.2 Siebold's sedum - Sedum Sieboldii
A small shrub with rather tough, semi-recumbent stems and round, thick leaves. The shades of the leaves are very varied and include: light green, green, yellow, orange, reddish, pink, white and bluish colors. Many species have leaves of two or more shades. Pink flowers are collected in small inflorescences - umbrellas at the ends of the stems.
↑ Up,
3.3 Adolphus' omentum - Sedum adolphii
It is a cross between the above two species. The leaves of this low stonecrop are flatter in comparison with the Morgan stonecrop and have a more varied color range - from light green to bluish, pink, white and yellow. In indoor culture, it blooms extremely rarely.
↑ Up,
3.4. Weinberg's sedum - Sedum weinbergii
A dwarf shrub with stiff stems and wide but pointed thick leaves that form rosettes. Shades of leaves are mainly in gray and bluish-lilac tones. At the ends of the shoots during the flowering period, branched, few-flowered inflorescences with white or yellow flowers are formed. Flowering is of little interest.
↑ Up,
3.5 Sedum prominent, magnificent or remarkable, Hylotelephium spectabile.
One of the tallest species - it grows up to 60 cm. It is a shrub with numerous erect stems. Leaves are green, oblong-oval, thick, collected in a basal rosette. Apical inflorescences, composed of many pink, greenish or white flowers.
↑ Up,
3.6. False sedum - Sedum spurium
Plants with creeping or erect stems 3 - 45 cm high. When in contact with the ground, roots appear in the leaf nodes. The leaves are thick, on short petioles, arranged alternately, reaching a length of 2.5 cm. The leaf blades can be oval or rounded, whole-edged or with small denticles. The color of the leaves is variable - it can be of all shades of green or with white and pinkish stripes. Plants may expose the lower stems as they age. The flowers are small - white, pink or red, collected in apical inflorescences.
↑ Up,
3.7. Sedum reflexum ‘Cristatum’
Spectacular succulents 15 - 30 cm high with a beautifully curved stem. Leaves are green, needle-like, when grown in direct sunlight, they turn pinkish. During the flowering period, the plant adorns itself with small inflorescences with yellow flowers.
↑ Up,
3.8. Escaping sedum - Sedum stoloniferum
Evergreen succulent up to 20 cm high. The leaves are light green, simple, alternate, oval or round, sessile. In the summer months, small pinkish, star-shaped flowers appear abundantly on the tops of the shoots.
↑ Up,
3.9. Sedum vine - Sedum sarmentosum
A fairly fast growing, ground cover succulent with creeping, abundantly branching stems of a pale pink color. The leaves are narrow - lanceolate, simple, green, sessile, densely covering the shoots. The flowers are yellow, with narrow, pointed petals, and are very abundant.
↑ Up,
3.10 Sedum burrito
Succulent, common in room culture, is a subspecies of Morgan's sedum. Plants have lodging, long stems, branched at the base. The leaves are juicy, rounded in cross section, light green, covered with a bluish waxy bloom. This variety has shorter and thicker leaves. In the warm season, small inflorescences with pinkish flowers appear at the top of almost every shoot. The plant should not be placed in passages and corridors - delicate leaves break off easily at the slightest touch.
↑ Up,
3.11 Sedum six-row or hexagonal - Sedum sexangulare
Low-growing perennials with erect, strong shoots, forming a dense crown up to 10-15 cm high. Leaves are green, glossy, needle-like, rounded in cross-section, arranged spirally. In the autumn months, the leaves can take on a bronze or burgundy hue. The flowers are bright, star-shaped, collected in apical inflorescences. The flowering is very abundant.
↑ Up,
3.12 Sedum selskianum
Evergreen succulents 15 - 20 cm high with erect, burgundy or green shoots forming a round, dense crown. The leaves are green, clavate or inversely ovate, with small denticles along the edge. When sunlight hits the leaves, thin pinkish stripes appear along their edge. In August, each stem forms a small umbrella with yellow or orange flowers at the top.
↑ Up,
3.13 Sedum oreganum
A bright decorative leafy plant, the leaves of which can be painted in a wide range of colors - from standard green to pink, orange and burgundy. Stems lodging, pinkish. With age, these plants form dense grassy mats. During the flowering period, erect, strong peduncles with bright, golden flowers appear.
↑ Up,
3.14 Sedum middendorf - Sedum middendorfianum
Perennial flowering plants with long, narrow, glossy leaves. The tips of the leaf plates may have small denticles. In the autumn months, the leaves turn reddish-burgundy and die off. The flowers are golden yellow, collected in apical umbrellas.
↑ Up,
3.15. Sedum prealtum.
Tall tree stonecrops up to 90 cm high with strong, erect, branched stems along the entire height. Leaves are light green, oblong, clavate, sessile. Small specimens resemble bonsai. In the summer months, the plant adorns itself with large inflorescences with many small, yellow, star-shaped flowers.
↑ Up,
3.16. Sedum flowering - Sedum floriferum
A herbaceous perennial plant native to Kamchatka, it is a semi-evergreen succulent up to 20 cm high with numerous lodging shoots. With age, this species forms a dense soil cover. The leaves are small, round or oblong, clavate, sessile. The tips of the leaf plates may have small denticles along the edge. With the onset of frost, plants can lose their foliage; in a frost-free climate, it remains evergreen. Peduncles are erect, strong, rise high above the foliage and bear umbrellas on the tops with several rather large, orange-yellow flowers.
↑ Up,
3.17 Sedum nussbaumerianum
Miniature succulent up to 20 cm high with profusely branched, thick stems. This variety has an attractive, bright color of leaves - narrow lanceolate leaf blades can be green, brownish, red and orange. Inflorescences are very large, rounded umbrellas, consisting of many pinkish or white flowers with a slight aroma.
↑ Up,
3.18 Sedum stahlii
Plants with thin erect or creeping stems up to 30 cm high. Leaves are thick, juicy, rounded in cross section, arranged in opposite pairs, fall off at the slightest touch and take root easily in the ground. The stems often have aerial roots. The flowers are greenish-yellow, appear in late spring or in the first half of summer.
↑ Up,
3.19 Sedum lineare
Low evergreen succulents up to 15 cm high, with erect, thick stems and narrow, light green or bluish, linear leaves. Attractive variegated plants have white thin stripes along the edge of the leaf blades. The flowers are yellow or cream.
↑ Up,
3.20. Hairy sedum - Sedum villosum
Plants with erect, profusely branched stems at the base.Leaves are green or burgundy, rounded in cross section, oblong, glossy, can be covered with a slight light bloom. Peduncles are strong, erect, bearing attractive lilac, white or pink flowers at the top.
↑ Up,
3.21 Sedum narrow-leaved - Sedum stenopetalum
Perennial evergreen succulent with erect stems up to 20 cm high. Leaves are light green, linear, sessile. The flowers are greenish-yellow, star-shaped, appearing at the top of each shoot in the summer months.
↑ Up,
3.22 Sedum rubrotinctum
Succulent plants with branched at the base, lodging shoots. On contact with the ground, the shoots take root quickly. Young shoots can be erect, but they droop with age. The leaves are thick, fleshy, light green, densely covering the stems of the plant. During the summer months or when grown in direct sunlight, the leaves can turn red, orange or burgundy. The flowers are bright yellow, appear on the tops of the shoots.
↑ Up,
3.23. Sedum obtusifolia - Sedum obtusifolia
Attractive groundcover, evergreens up to 15 cm high with green or bronze, glossy leaves of broadly triangular shape. With the onset of the hot summer months, the border of the leaves can turn reddish. During the flowering period, plants form apical peduncles with small, star-shaped, pink or lilac flowers.
↑ Up,
3.24. Sedum cornflower-Sedum cyaneum
Low-growing evergreen perennials with thick, erect or lodging stems. The leaves are thick, rounded, succulent, densely covering the shoots of the plant. Leaf blades can be painted in lilac, gray, bluish, dark green shades. The flowers are bright, lilac, contrasting well with the leaves. Abundant flowering.
↑ Up,
3.25 Soddy sedum - Sedum caespitosum
Annual succulents with erect, thick, short stems 2 - 5 cm high. Leaves are green, glossy, juicy, oblong - oval, rounded in cross section. When grown in direct sunlight, the tips of the leaves may turn reddish. With age, plants can form colonies of impressive size. The flowers are star-shaped, with narrow white or pink petals - they form in the second half of summer - early autumn at the tops of the shoots.
↑ Up,
3.26 Sedum thick-leaved - Sedum Dasyphyllum
A dwarf groundcover succulent with creeping stems that form a dense grassy mat. The leaves are small, oblong, rounded in cross section, bluish-green. Variegated varieties have pink or purple leaves. The flowers are delicate pink, appear in the summer months on the tops of the shoots.
↑ Up,
3.27 Sedum Palmeri
Small succulent plants up to 30 cm in height with thick, vertical shoots, on the tops of which there are green, oblong leaves collected in rosettes. Variegated specimens have reddish or pink lower leaves in the rosette. The inflorescences are drooping, apical, consisting of many small, golden flowers.
↑ Up,
3.28. Sedum sausage - Sedum allantoides
Ornamental-leaved plants with erect, strong shoots, on which there are long, rounded or slightly flattened, bluish-green leaves. The leaves resemble a loaf of sausage in their shape, for which the plant got its name. In the warm season, low, branched peduncles with small, greenish, inconspicuous flowers are formed on the tops of the stems.
↑ Up,
3.29 Sedum makinoi
Bright light green or bluish green ground cover plants with rounded, glossy leaves. The flowers are small, yellow, collected in apical inflorescences, often lost against the background of foliage.
↑ Up,
3.30 Sedum pachyclados
Extremely attractive, evergreen perennials with bluish, oblong, toothed leaves on the edge, collected in rosettes. The stems are long, lodging, bare in the lower part, but the plants do not lose their attractiveness at all. Lush inflorescences with small, white or cream flowers will complement the spectacular look.
↑ Up,
3.31 Evers' sedum uniform-leaved - Sedum ewersii var. homophyllum
Dense ground cover perennials with branched at the base, creeping stems, densely covered with rounded sessile leaves. The leaf blades are light green, whole-edged, covered with a bluish waxy bloom. During the flowering period, the plant adorns itself with very abundant pink flowers, creating an excellent contrast to the leaves.
↑ Up,
3.32 Sikhotin Sedum - Sedum sichotense
Low succulent plants with erect, branched stems at the base. The leaves are narrow, linear, the edges of the leaf plates are covered with small denticles. The color of the leaves is variable and includes green, bluish green, yellow and orange, as well as pink and red shades. In spring or summer, small inflorescences are formed on the tops of the shoots - umbrellas with yellow flowers.
↑ Up,
3.33 Sedum forsteranum
A spectacular representative of stonecrops - is a low-growing evergreen perennials with abundantly branched shoots. Plants form dense grassy mats with age. The leaves are long, rounded in cross section, reminiscent of needles, abundantly cover the stems of plants. The color of the leaves is most often bluish or light green; when grown in direct sunlight, the leaf blades can acquire a pinkish or red tint. It blooms with small, greenish - yellow flowers, collected in inflorescences.
↑ Up,
3.34. Sedum mexicanum.
Bright, sunny, ground cover plant with lodging shoots. Leaves are light green, sometimes yellowish green, glossy, narrow, linear. The leaf blades are entire. During the flowering period, forms small greenish-yellow flowers.
↑ Up,
3.35. Sedum Rubens or reddening sedum - Sedum rubens
Annual herbaceous plants up to 15 cm high in lodging stems. The leaves are narrow, 1 - 2 cm long, bluish green or light green. An interesting feature of this variety is that during the growing season, the leaf blades sometimes change their shade to burgundy or red. The flowers are pinkish-white, with long and narrow petals.
↑ Up,
3.36. Poplar-leaved sedum - Hylotelephium populifolium
Short succulents with strong branching shoots. The main decoration of plants are bluish - green, oblong leaves on short petioles. The edges of the leaf plates are covered with denticles of various sizes. During the flowering period, small inflorescences are formed - umbrellas with white or pale pink buds.
↑ Up,
3.37 Sedum spathulifolium - Sedum spathulifolium
Spectacular ground cover plants with lodging stems. Leaflets are rounded, sessile, collected in whorls. The leaf blades are light green, covered with a dense waxy bloom of blue or almost white. During the flowering period, strong erect peduncles of a burgundy or reddish hue are formed. At the tops of the peduncles there are small inflorescences with yellow, greenish or orange flowers. Leaves can turn pinkish when grown in full sun.
↑ Up,
Useful video
Watch a video about caring for Sedum in the garden:
https://youtu.be/yKZZXSWxvoE
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.
Recently, gardeners have increasingly begun to grow succulents in their garden plots. There are several reasons for this.Firstly, caring for such plants is not difficult, and secondly, they give the site an uniqueness, originality. One of these popular succulent plants is sedum or sedum. Today, a large number of species of this plant are known - about 600, with a third of them being cultivated forms. All varieties are divided into thermophilic tropical, which are grown in our latitudes as indoor plants, and winter-hardy, ground cover.
How to prune roses in the fall: general principles
All plants are pruned, regardless of age. First of all, dry, damaged and diseased shoots are cut, that is, sanitary pruning is carried out. Then the bush is examined, and excess shoots are removed: from 3 to 5 well-developed stems are left, if possible, one from one at an equal distance.
No need to leave unripe shoots with a thin and delicate bark for the winter.
Removing an unripe shoot
They can rot under the covering material, infecting the entire bush.
During trimming, the cutting planes of the pruner are placed at an angle in relation to the shoot, trying to cut obliquely.
Through such a cut, moisture flows freely without penetrating into the core of the stem. It is also necessary to make cuts with a hacksaw obliquely. To prevent new branches from growing inside the bush and not intersecting during growth, pruning is carried out over the outer bud, stepping back 0.5 cm. Annual shoots are cut with pruners, and thicker trunks with lignified bark are cut with a hacksaw.
Important. A clean, sharp garden tool is used to shorten the shoots. Dull pruning shears will leave ragged marks that will last for a long time. It is recommended to disinfect the instrument before using it.
When the roses are pruned, the leaves are removed from the shortened stems. To do this, a hand, dressed in a tight mitten, is carried along the branches from bottom to top, while tearing off the foliage. All plant residues are collected with a fan rake and removed from the flower garden. These are general principles that apply to all types of roses, but you should also take into account the developmental characteristics of a particular species.
What kind of roses are pruned in the fall?
Floribunda
In this species, flower buds are placed on the shoots of this year. For pruning a bush, two pruning methods are recommended. Such pruning called combined.
Some of the branches are cut, leaving up to 10 buds, this pruning ensures early flowering. The remaining branches are greatly shortened, leaving 3-5 buds, thereby causing the growth of new shoots, they will bloom later.
Polyanthus roses
Mature shrubs of this species should have 7-8 main branches. The rest of the branches are deleted. The middle of the bush must be cleaned. By pruning, a spherical shape of the bush is achieved.
In autumn, the shoot is cut off by a third, and 1-2 buds are left at its growth. This species blooms on the shoots of both the past and this year.
Miniature roses
Miniatures are pruned, leaving 5-7 buds on the shoot, trying to give symmetry.
Semi-twisted roses
Semi-plaited varieties bloom on the growth of this year. In autumn, one-year growth is shortened by a third. Two-year branches are shortened to 3-5, their growth is up to 1-2 buds.
Stamp types
When floribundas or hybrid tea are grafted on the stem, the crown will grow upward. They are cut in autumn, each growth is up to 3-5 buds, lateral growth is up to 1-2. The middle of the stem must be left free.
Standard roses with a weeping crown are pruned, removing all last year's stems, leaving only the current growth. When it is not enough, you can leave symmetrical biennial stems, cutting off their lateral shoots to 3 buds.
Ground cover roses
In autumn, if the bush was planted in spring, remove all the stems that have faded. For future flowering, basal processes are left, slightly cutting and bending the stems to the ground, fixing in this position. This will ensure flowering along the entire length of the pagon. Lateral growths are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds.
In the fall, in the second year, half of the pinned branches are removed. New sprouts are taken from the middle and attached to the soil. Lateral shoots are removed, leaving 2 - 3 buds. All processes that interfere with growth are removed.
In the third and subsequent years in the fall, all branches attached to the ground are removed. New shoots are taken from the middle of the bush and pinned to the ground, cutting off the lateral shoots to 3 buds. Also remove all crossed stems, diseased, immature, damaged.
Autumn pruning of roses is very important and should not be neglected. The future flowering, as well as the appearance and health of the bush, depends on the quality of pruning. Take the time for these noble plants, the result of your efforts will be a violent, long flowering.
