The orchid has got out the roots from the pot: reasons for what to do

The most common in mangroves rolls back to reveal a dense rhizophora tree, which has a blood-red wood due to its large tannin content. The separation of the young plant from the mother earth of fibrous roots coincides with the ebb tide. Mangrove forests in a short time form New Zealand, growing dense thickets, protecting the coast from Zealand, growing gigantic destruction by sea waves. Interestingly, stilted roots develop not only at the roots of mangrove trees. Pohutukawa aerial roots As an example, Metrosideros or Metrosideros felt nutmeg found in swampy forests water It turns out the roots of Malaya.

Underground organ root: types of roots

The roots of plants can be different both in color and in shape, length, branching. In total, there are three main types of root types. The name of the root species is as follows.

1. Main. This is the main axial root that goes deepest into the ground. As a rule, it is thicker than the others and longer. It takes its origin from the embryonic root. It contains the main conductive and suction zones through which substances are transported to the plant stem, and from the latter are carried throughout the body.
2. Subordinate clauses. These structures extend directly from the main root and branch out to the sides, increasing the total mass of the entire system. Their function, like the main one, is to absorb substances and keep the plant in the ground.
3. Side. These elements are thin hair-like roots extending from the adventitious structures. Their thickness is sometimes only one to two millimeters. Different types of roots are not the same in number, but it is the lateral roots in the total mass that dominate in this indicator.

Thus, terrestrial plants are characterized by three types of roots, which, in a general organic combination, form whole systems.

External structure of the root. Internal structure of the root

Root zones

Root cap

The root grows in length at its tip, where young cells of the educational tissue are located. The growing part is covered with a root cap that protects the root tip from damage and makes it easier for the root to move through the soil during growth. The latter function is carried out due to the property of the outer walls of the root cap to be covered with mucus, which reduces friction between the root and soil particles. They can even push apart soil particles. The cells of the root cap are alive and often contain starch grains. The cells of the cap are constantly renewed due to division. Participates in positive geotropic reactions (direction of root growth towards the center of the Earth).

The cells of the division zone are actively dividing; the length of this zone is not the same in different species and in different roots of the same plant.

A stretch zone (growth zone) is located behind the division zone. The length of this zone does not exceed a few millimeters.

As the linear growth is completed, the third stage of root formation begins - its differentiation, a zone of differentiation and specialization of cells (or a zone of root hairs and absorption) is formed. In this zone, the outer layer of the epiblema (rhizoderm) with root hairs, the layer of the primary cortex and the central cylinder are already distinguished.

Root hair structure

Root hairs are highly elongated outgrowths of the outer cells that cover the root. The number of root hairs is very large (from 200 to 300 hairs per mm2). Their length reaches 10 mm. Hair is formed very quickly (in young apple seedlings in 30-40 hours). Root hairs are short-lived. They die off after 10-20 days, and new ones grow on the young part of the root. This ensures the development of new soil horizons by the root. The root grows continuously, forming more and more areas of root hairs. The hairs can not only absorb ready-made solutions of substances, but also contribute to the dissolution of certain soil substances, and then suck them in. The area of ​​the root, where the root hairs have died off, is able to absorb water for some time, but then it becomes covered with a cork and loses this ability.

The hair sheath is very thin, which facilitates the absorption of nutrients. Almost the entire hair cell is occupied by a vacuole surrounded by a thin layer of cytoplasm. The nucleus is at the top of the cell. A mucous sheath is formed around the cell, which promotes adhesion of root hairs with soil particles, which improves their contact and increases the hydrophilicity of the system. The absorption is promoted by the release of acids (carbonic, malic, citric) by the root hairs, which dissolve mineral salts.

Root hairs also play a mechanical role - they serve as a support for the apex of the root, which passes between the soil particles.

Under the microscope, on a transverse section of the root in the absorption zone, its structure at the cellular and tissue levels is visible. On the surface of the root is the rhizoderm, below it is the bark. The outer layer of the cortex is the exoderm, inside of it is the main parenchyma. Its thin-walled living cells perform a storage function, carry out solutions of nutrients in a radial direction - from the suction tissue to the vessels of the wood. They also synthesize a number of organic substances vital for the plant. The inner layer of the cortex is endoderm. Nutrient solutions from the cortex into the central cylinder through the endoderm cells pass only through the protoplast of the cells.

The bark surrounds the central cylinder of the root. It borders on a layer of cells that retain their ability to divide for a long time. This is the pericycle. Pericycle cells give rise to lateral roots, accessory buds and secondary educational tissues. Inward from the pericycle, in the center of the root, are the conductive tissues: bast and wood. Together they form a radial conductive bundle.

The root conduction system conducts water and minerals from the root to the stem (upward current) and organic matter from the stem to the root (downward current). It consists of vascular fibrous bundles. The main components of the bundle are sections of the phloem (along which substances move to the root) and xylem (along which substances move from the root). The main conducting elements of phloem are sieve tubes, xylems are trachea (vessels) and tracheids.

Types of root systems

What are the types of roots, we found out. Now it remains to deal with the issue of systems formed by them. In total, there are two main types.

1. Rod. Typical for the class Monocotyledonous plants (cereals, liliaceae, palm and others). The main distinguishing feature: the main root is pronounced and the adventitious and lateral ones are weakly.
2. Fibrous. Typical for the class Dicotyledonous plants (rosaceous, cruciferous, legumes, and so on). The peculiarity that the root has: the types of roots are expressed in the same degree. There is no main thing, since the adventitious and lateral branches suppress it by their branching, and a general highly indented structure is formed.

No more root system variants are known.

Historical development of the root

Phylogenetically, the root arose later than the stem and leaf - in connection with the transition of plants to life on land and probably originated from root-like underground branches. The root has no leaves or buds arranged in a certain order.It is characterized by apical growth in length, its lateral ramifications arise from internal tissues, the growth point is covered with a root cap. The root system is formed throughout the life of a plant organism. Sometimes the root can serve as a place of deposition in the supply of nutrients. In this case, it is modified.

Varieties of changed structures

We examined what types of roots are. But there are also their modified forms. That is, when the main, lateral and adventitious roots are transformed into a slightly different form that helps the plant adapt to certain habitat conditions.

The types of changed roots are as follows:

• roots;
• holds;
• stilted;
• root tubers;
• air;
• root cones;
• retractable;
• support roots;
• respiratory;
• sucker roots.

In some tropical species, some highly specific transformations of the root system are distinguished. We will consider the most interesting and common options.

Choosing the right filler

There is another reason why the roots are climbing out, it is associated with the use of the wrong filler. For growing orchids, only a special substrate is suitable, which can be purchased ready-made in a gardening store. You can create it yourself from earth, moss and bark.

When growing flowers in ordinary soil, unfavorable conditions will be created for them, which will make it impossible for the development of a dense and root system, therefore, already a few months after planting, aerial shoots may begin to appear.

Aerial roots

Plants with aerial roots are inhabitants of places in which the soil is poor in moisture and oxygen. These can be saline lands or excessively acidic (alkaline) ones. Therefore, such individuals absolutely do not have enough oxygen. To capture and absorb it additionally, they adapted in the following way.

Their lateral roots rise above the ground and in this way absorb moisture and oxygen directly from the surrounding air. Plants with modified roots look very unusual, sometimes even frightening. If too many aerial roots are formed, then the tree looks very voluminous, bushy and somehow a little fabulous.

In ancient times, plants with similar characteristics were attributed to various magical properties, because they looked really mystical. Representatives include the following types:

• orchids, including decorative indoor plants;
• some types of ficuses;
• metrosideros;
• thickets of mangroves;
• lianas;
• monstera and others.

Pruning features

If the roots of an orchid grow upward, then the gardener may be alerted. Their appearance above ground level may seem like a sign of a serious illness or a lack of space in the pot. This is not necessary if the root system is healthy, has a gray tint, which changes to green after watering. Before trimming the roots of an orchid, you should determine whether they are alive or dead.

Alive

A live root that has protruded outward cannot be cut off in any case. Such a procedure will cause pain in the plant, which will cause wilting or the development of a serious disease. You can distinguish it from the dead one by making a simple test - placing the orchid in a container of water. The living root will immediately take on a green tint, and its structure will become firm and smooth.

Dead

The dead aerial roots of the orchid must be cut off. Because of them, the plant will not have enough nutrition, and it will begin to wilt. In addition, they interfere with the formation of a new root system, due to which a reliable fixation of the plant would appear and the plant would grow well. You can distinguish them from the living by doing the same test. Dead roots will not change color and structure after interacting with water; phalaenopsis should be cut off immediately.

If they come out of the pot

If the roots of the orchid have crawled out of the pot, then this should not be alarming, since such an effect is normal for this type of plant. Nature has created such a root system for better saturation with moisture and air. Only dead roots are required to trim. Lives cannot be removed, no matter how much space they take up in the pot.

Attention!

It is strictly forbidden to cut off the aerial roots of an orchid if it blooms. Such an action will cause severe stress for the flower, due to which it can become sick or die.

Stilted roots

Obviously, support is the main function that the root performs. Root species, which are altered appendages of the underlying structures, can also serve this purpose. Stilted roots are a typical example. They are formed in plants growing:

• in dense and viscous silt;
• coastal zones (stripes) where they are submerged in water;
• in sandy ground.

They are very important, because they begin their growth from the stem. In this way, the body is strengthened in the ground. Numerous hard and durable stilted appendages in general give the plant stability and promote dense rooting.

Examples of organisms that are characterized by such structures include the following:

• maize;
• mangroves;
• pandanus;
• Malay tree;
• some types of palm trees;
• avicennia;
• nipa;
• rhizophora;
• cork and others.

Why don't these necessary "additions" grow on the monster?

Many who have recently acquired a new pet are worried that the plant lacks what any "self-respecting" monstera can boast of - aerial roots. What if they don't grow? Do not worry! A young plant that has not yet filled the pot provided to it simply does not need additional organs. It has enough water obtained from the soil, and it is not yet so large that support is required. As soon as it stretches out, it will grow air roots in the amount it needs.

Supporting roots

There are many amazing things that the science of biology tells us about. The types of roots in some plants are so ridiculous and unreal that it is difficult to imagine their naturalness.

For example, there are such varieties of these organs as columnar, or support roots. Their main purpose is to provide the plant not only with additional support and stability, but also with air nutrition. Like air, they are also capable of fixing atmospheric oxygen from the air.

Thus, it turns out that columnar modifications are a combination of aerial and stilted roots. Plants that are characterized by such structures are:

• ficus elastica;
• banyan trees;
• some tropical trees.

The peculiarity of the formation of such roots is that they arise from horizontal branches and then grow down to the ground. Having reached it, they take root and become a reliable additional support. And since they are above the ground, then the second function - oxygen absorption - is performed successfully.

Diseases and pests of monstera

Monstera leaves fall. In case of insufficient light, the trunk loses its leaves and the growth of the plant stops.

Spots on monstera leaves. Red spider mites can cause brown spots on the underside of the leaf.

Monstera turns yellow. Leaves turn yellow when there is a lack of nutrition.

Monstera leaves turn yellow. The leaves turn yellow and begin to rot due to waterlogging of the soil.

Monstera leaves turn brown. The leaves turn brown and become papery if the pot is tight or the air is too dry.

New monstera leaves are pale. The appearance of pale leaves and yellow spots on them is caused by excess sunlight.

Monstera stretches out. The stem twists, shoots stretch out, and new leaves grow pale and small due to lack of light.

Spots on monstera leaves. When the soil is waterlogged, droplets may appear on the leaves (the leaves "cry"). The monster needs to be watered less often and the substrate should be allowed to dry.

Monstera leaves are whole. New leaves may not have cuts due to insufficient plant nutrition or if the plant does not have enough light.

Monstera leaves dry and fall off. If the leaves turn brown and dry before dropping, the air temperature is too high for the monstera. Leaves fall off with age, but fall off healthy - this is normal.

Monstera pests. Most often, the plant is harmed by scale insects, aphids and spider mites.

Roots

Such a modification is known to everyone, because it is it that we grow in our summer cottages. Plants with such structures have the most succulent and nutritious root. The types of roots of such a change can be as follows:

Root tubers are formed from adventitious roots and lateral ones. They accumulate a large amount of nutrients, which allows the plant to accelerate the growing season and feel more protected when unfavorable conditions occur. Examples of plants:

• artichoke;
• nasturtium;
• potatoes;
• earthen pear;
• begonia;
• caladium;
• diascarea;
• water lily and others.

Root crops, although they contain the word "fruit" in the name, have nothing to do with these organs. This is the thickened main root of the plant, in which a large mass of nutrients, pigments, vitamins, and so on, accumulate.

Examples of such plants are the most popular:

• celery;
• carrot;
• beet;
• parsley;
• chicory;
• radish;
• parsnips and others.

These crops are among the most demanded cultivated plants. They are prepared, used to prepare medicines, and vitamins are obtained from them.

Soil as a habitat for roots

The soil for plants is the medium from which it receives water and nutrients. The amount of mineral substances in the soil depends on the specific characteristics of the parent rock, the activity of organisms, on the life of the plants themselves, on the type of soil.
Soil particles compete with the roots for moisture, retaining it on their surface. This is the so-called bound water, which is subdivided into hygroscopic and film water. It is held by the forces of molecular attraction. The moisture available to the plant is represented by capillary water, which is concentrated in the small pores of the soil.

Antagonistic relations develop between the moisture and the air phase of the soil. The more large pores in the soil, the better the gas regime of these soils, the less moisture the soil retains. The most favorable water-air regime is maintained in structural soils, where water and air are located simultaneously and do not interfere with each other - water fills capillaries inside structural aggregates, and air fills large pores between them.

The nature of the interaction between the plant and the soil is largely related to the absorption capacity of the soil - the ability to retain or bind chemical compounds.

Soil microflora decomposes organic matter to simpler compounds, participates in the formation of the soil structure. The nature of these processes depends on the type of soil, the chemical composition of plant residues, the physiological properties of microorganisms, and other factors. Soil animals take part in the formation of the soil structure: annelids, insect larvae, etc.

As a result of the combination of biological and chemical processes in the soil, a complex complex of organic substances is formed, which is united by the term "humus".

What are the functions of the plant root?

The answer to this question has already been touched upon in the course of the article. It remains only to summarize and generalize all that has been said in order to clearly define the answer to the question: "What functions does the root of a plant perform?"

1. Anchor, or fixing.
2. Implementation of absorption and transport of mineral compounds and water.
3. Modifications serve to fix and store nutrients.
4. The root is a vegetative reproductive organ.
5. It forms vitamins, hormones, pigments.
6. The root enters into a symbiotic relationship with bacteria and fungi.

Specific root modifications serve for different functional adaptations. We have already spoken about them when considering each specific example.

Many unrelated tropical trees are characterized by so-called stilted roots, that is, roots that extend from the trunk above the ground and reach the soil with a steep arch, giving the impression that the tree is standing on stilts. Botanists call such roots adventitious, which simply means that they are not in their place. The cult roots can be roughly divided into four types, although they are all very close and pass one into the other, so that it is often difficult to distinguish between them.

Walking type Pandanus (Pandanus) includes one hundred and eighty species of tropical trees with narrow long leaves. The young plant throws out adventitious roots growing downward - perhaps for additional support. As the tree grows, new additional supports appear, especially if it is bent due to the influence of the wind or for some other reason. Each of these supports, in turn, releases roots that grow downward, and as a result, it sometimes seems as if the plant is walking somewhere.

Hip type The hip type of stilted roots is most pronounced in Brazilian palms of the genus Socratea (also called Iriartea). When looking at an adult tree, the uninitiated may think that its trunk has never touched the ground, since it starts in the air at a height of 2-3 m and rests on small poles arranged in a tent. G. Bates [10] wrote about this curiosity of the Brazilian forests:

“One genus of palm trees is pasiuba (Iriartea exorrhiza). (has) roots above the ground - they diverge from the trunk at a fairly high altitude. Between the roots of an old tree, you can straighten up to its full height, far from reaching with your head to the place where the vertical stem begins. These roots are planted with powerful thorns, while the trunk of the tree is perfectly smooth. This oddity may have to. to compensate the tree for the inability of its root system to grow in the soil due to the proximity of the roots of other trees. "

Walking pandanus in a Florida tropical plant garden.

The "cork" or "umbrella" tree (Musanga smithii) of western tropical Africa has the same structure, but with one additional feature: wherever one of its far-reaching stilts is introduced into the soil, a new tree begins to grow. J. Dalsil [30] wrote:

Root pruning

If the roots of the orchid come out of the pot, then they can be carefully removed. It is recommended to cut them off in order to heal and improve the growth of the flower. You need to eliminate dead and rotten processes. If this is not done, then the process of destruction of organic compounds will begin, which will negatively affect the growth of plant culture. Root pruning consists of several stages: preparation of instruments, search for elements, their removal and processing after completion of the procedure.

Instrument preparation

In order to remove the roots of a plant, you need a special garden pruner or a sharp knife. Previously, the tool must be disinfected or treated with an alcohol solution, if this is not done, then there is a risk of infection in the plant.

Attention!

It is not recommended to use small or nail scissors for pruning. They simply damage the delicate leaves of the orchid or injure the root system, which will be difficult to restore in the future.

Find items to shorten

Before processing the root system, you need to shake off the earth from it and carefully examine it. You can pre-moisten the roots to make it easier to separate the dead from the living.It is necessary to remove those processes that no longer grow, have a gray tint after interacting with water and have signs of rot or mold on them.

The process itself

To carry out root pruning, you need to do the following:

1. Water abundantly the soil that is in the orchid pot.
2. After a few seconds, remove the plant from the substrate.
3. Separate rotten and dry processes.
4. Cut off problem areas with a pre-disinfected pruner or scissors.
5. Treat the cut off areas with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.
6. Place those sections of the bottom into the vitamin solution. To prepare it, you need to mix 1 ampoule of vitamin B, B1 and B12. Place the shoots in it and leave for 10-15 minutes.

After processing, it is necessary to plant the plant in the same or a new pot. After planting, cover it with substrate to improve fixation. If the processing is done correctly, then in 2-3 months a lot of new roots will appear.

Interesting article!

This article has helped many gardeners to stop overworking on their site and at the same time get a generous harvest. I would never have thought that in order to get the best harvest on my personal plot in my entire "summer career", I just need to stop straining in the beds and trust nature. As far back as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First, on the parental, and then my husband and I bought ours. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, garter, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, on conservation and trying to preserve the crop until next year. And so in a circle ...

How and how to properly process a flower after the procedure

Be sure to process the roots of the orchid after pruning. Through open sections, infection or bacteria from the soil can enter the plant, causing it to wither or die. To prevent this from happening after cutting off the shoots, it is necessary to do the treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide. Experienced flower growers recommend using one of several means for this purpose:

• charcoal or activated carbon, pre-crushed;
• grated sphagnum moss;
• brilliant green;
• ground cinnamon.

One of the tools must be carefully applied to the damaged area so that it completely covers the joints. The main purpose of their use is to prevent the penetration of infection into the plant culture. In addition, they prevent the risk of decay and speed up the healing process.

Storing roots

In some perennial plants, the storing function of the root becomes the main one. Such roots are called storing roots. The supply of nutrients allows the plant to survive the cold season. There are two types of storage roots - root crops and root cones.

Roots are formed due to the growth of the main root and the lower part of the stem. In some plants (beets, radishes, turnips), the bulk of reserve nutrients (starch, sugar, mineral salts, vitamins) is deposited in the stem part of the root crop, and the root itself is its lower part, on which lateral roots develop. In other plants (carrots, parsley) reserve nutrients are deposited in the root parenchyma. Root crops contain many vitamins, minerals and other nutrients and are of great economic importance. Many of them are eaten raw, boiled and stewed, dried and canned (carrots, beets, radishes, turnips, radishes, parsley). Succulent root vegetables are a valuable pet food.

Root cones - these are growths of lateral or adventitious roots in the fibrous root system. Root cones form dahlia, sweet potato, peel, orchis and many other plants. Root cones are sometimes referred to as root tubers.

Adventitious buds are formed on the root cones, which serve for vegetative propagation.

Types of monstera

Monstera adansonii

This species is common in tropical forests from Brazil to Costa Rica. In height, this vine grows up to 8 m. The leaves are thin, egg-shaped, 25 to 55 cm long and 20 to 40 cm wide. A large number of holes are located over the entire sheet area. Indoors, this species blooms very rarely. If this happens, the ear will be light yellow in color, on a short peduncle. Sizes: from 8 to 12 cm in length and one and a half to two in width.

Monstera Borziga / Monstera deliciosa borsigiana

The plant is common in Mexico. The stems are not as thick as those of the gourmet monstera, and the leaves are smaller - up to 30 cm in diameter. The species grows well both in rooms and other rooms.

Monstera deliciosa / Monstera deliciosa

This species is also called Monstera attractive. The homeland of this climbing liana is the mountainous and humid forests of tropical Central America. Grows up to 1 km above sea level. Young leaves are heart-shaped, the edge is solid. Adult leaves are leathery to the touch, heart-shaped, large (up to 60 cm in diameter), strongly dissected and with holes. The ear (up to 25 cm long, up to 20 cm wide) is covered with a white sheath. The pulp of the fruit is edible, has a pineapple smell and taste.

In greenhouses, this species grows up to 12 m in height and up to 3 m in rooms. If an adult monster is properly looked after, then it can bloom every year. Variegata has variegated white leaves, is more demanding to care for and grows more slowly.

Oblique Monstera / Monstera obliqua

This species is also called Monstera expilata or crescent monstera (Monstera falcifolia). The homeland of this climbing liana is the rainforests of the tropical parts of Guiana and Brazil. Leaves are whole, lanceolate or elliptical, unequal at the base; grow up to 20 cm in length, up to 6 cm in width. The petiole reaches a maximum of 13 cm. The inflorescence is attached to an 8-centimeter peduncle. The ear is low-flowered, up to 4 cm long.

Monstera punched / Monstera pertusa

Other name monstera full of holes. The homeland of the climbing liana is the tropical rainforests of America. The leaves are ovoid (or the shape of an elongated egg), up to 90 cm long, up to 25 cm wide. The holes on the leaves are unevenly placed, and the leaf itself is unequal - more extended towards the lower part of the leaf. A 10-centimeter ear is covered with a 20-centimeter white cover.

Aerial roots

Stilted roots

Stilted roots (roots - props) are adventitious roots that grow down from the stem of the plant and serve for its additional strengthening in the soil. In plants living in the zone of flooding, tides, stilted roots raise the plants above the water, and also perform a respiratory function. Stilted roots are formed in special plant communities of tropical forests - mangroves, as well as in some tropical trees and palms, and even in corn. An example of stilted roots is also a special life form of ficus - banyan tree.

Board-shaped support roots

Unlike stilted roots, board roots are lateral roots. Located at the very surface of the soil, or protruding above it, they form flat outgrowths that create additional support for the tree. Board-like roots are characteristic of large tropical trees.

Epiphytic roots

Epiphytes are plants that live on trees. The aerial roots of epiphytes hang freely in the air, absorbing moisture - rain or dewdrops with a special covering tissue - velamen. Epiphytes include orchids that live in tropical forests.

Respiratory roots (pneumatophores)

Respiratory roots form in trees growing on flooded or oxygen-poor soils. They grow upward from underground lateral roots. The main function of the respiratory roots is to supply oxygen to the underground parts of the plant. Oxygen penetrates through the large lentils located on the respiratory roots.

Monstera - description

Monstera (lat.Monstera) belongs to the family of aroid plants and includes up to 50 species. The habitat is considered to be South and Central America.The monstera plant got its name because of its large size and scary appearance (monster - monstrum).

This genus is evergreens (shrubs and vines). The stems are thick, climbing. They often have aerial roots. Leaves are large in size on a long petiole, leathery to the touch, have holes and cuts of different sizes and shapes; dark green color. A thick, cylindrical ear is an inflorescence. The flowers are bisexual on top, and sterile at the base.

Monstera is one of the most common representatives of the flora, grown indoors. There are many reasons for this, one of them is that the plant is very unpretentious and easy to care for. Home monstera ionizes the air in the room, which cannot but be a plus for keeping this plant.

Sucker roots (haustoria)

Sucker roots are characteristic of parasitic and semi-parasitic plants. These roots penetrate into the stems of other plants and absorb their juices. If at the same time the plant has parts capable of photosynthesis, it is a semi-parasite. Plants that have lost the ability to photosynthesize and live completely at the expense of other plants are parasites. Examples of parasites are the chloroplast-free dodder and the largest rafflesia flower. Rafflesia, which grows in rainforests, has no stems or leaves. The whole plant consists of sucker roots, with the help of which rafflesia parasitizes on the roots and stems of vines, and a huge flower, reaching 1 meter in diameter.

Semi-parasitic plants form organic matter through photosynthesis in their own leaves, and water and minerals are obtained using sucker roots from other plants. Examples of semi-parasites are tree-dwelling mistletoe, rattle meadow plant.

Plant follow-up

After transplanting or pruning a plant, you do not need to water it for 2-3 days, as an excessive amount of moisture will cause the development of fungus or mold. The flower pot should be placed on a window where there is a lot of light, but at the same time, you need to create a small curtain that will refract the direct rays of the sun.

Then you need to carry out regular watering - 3 times a week. In summer, with extreme heat, it is required to equip the plant with liquid every day. Periodically, it is required to apply mineral fertilizers to the soil, which are necessary for the full growth of the flower.

Retracting roots

Such a modification of the roots, such as retractable roots, is typical for many onions, forest trees, saffron (crocus), many orchids, aquatic plants, etc. Due to their special structure, retracting roots are able to shorten by 10-70%, and retract bulbs, corms, rhizomes, etc. .d underground, which protects plants from freezing in winter. Externally, the retracting roots are thick, with transverse striation.

If games or simulators do not open for you, read here.

Planting and caring for a monster (in brief)

• Bloom: Monstera is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant and rarely blooms in indoor conditions.
• Lighting: bright diffused light.
• Temperature: from spring to autumn - 20-25 ºC, in winter - 16-18 ºC, but not lower than 10 ºC.
• Watering: during the growing season - as soon as the top layer of the potted substrate is dry. In autumn, watering is gradually reduced, and in winter, the substrate is allowed to dry out by a quarter of the depth between waterings.
• Air humidity: increased. Monstera requires daily spraying in the heat, but it is better to wash its leaves with a damp sponge.
• Top dressing: adult plants - from mid-spring to the end of summer, alternately with organic and mineral fertilizers, and young fitters do not need feeding.
• Support: the support is fixed in the pot when planting or transplanting a plant.
• Rest period: not pronounced.
• Transfer: young monsters - annually, from three to five years, the plant is transplanted once, and from the age of five - once every 4-5 years, but the top layer of the substrate in the pot needs to be changed annually.
• Substrate: for young plants: two parts of humus soil and one part each of sand, peat and turf. For adults, a monster: three parts of sod land and one part each of deciduous, peat, humus and sand.
• Reproduction: seeds, cuttings, top.
• Pests: scale insects, aphids, spider mites.
• Diseases: the plant is sick mainly from poor care.
• Properties: monstera juice is poisonous!

Problems and their possible solutions

The aerial roots of epiphytes do not need special care - they will also be healthy if you take good care of the flower itself. However, they can experience the same problems as the stems and roots inside the pot.

Why do the roots of an orchid dry?

If the roots are gray, dry and wrinkled or have no growing tips, then the orchid is not getting enough moisture. This can be due to the coarse fraction of the potting mixture, which does not allow the roots to better contact the substrate when watering.

We advise you to read how to reanimate an orchid if its roots dry out.

Low air humidity in the room, which often occurs during the heating season, is also the cause of dry roots - you can put a container with water near the plant and carry out regular spraying. Try to keep humidity above 40%so that the aerial roots do not dry out too quickly.

The roots can dry out in direct sunlight, especially at noon - try shading the orchid with a transparent curtain or moving it away from the window

Why does the root system rot

When the roots start to rot, they turn brown and soft and cannot absorb water and nutrients properly. The only thing to do to help the plant is to trim the rotten roots into healthy tissue.

Important! Roots sometimes turn brown due to hard water and salt deposits on their surface. But unlike rot, salt stains are hard and rust-like.

The causes of decay can be excessive watering and stagnation of water in the substrate, as well as high concentrations of fertilizers and improper temperature conditions.

Only aerial roots remain

If, for some reason, the flower has only aerial roots, then this planting option will help the plant recover:

• cut off all problematic roots at the base and sprinkle the slices with cinnamon or activated charcoal. Air dry the orchid for 3-5 hours to heal and dry the cut wounds;
• prepare a pot for the volume of the root system with holes for draining water and ventilation;
• use a fine fraction of the bark as a substrate, and lay a layer of sphagnum (1 cm) on top, having previously doused it with boiling water;
• make a reliable support for the flower so that it does not stagger or topple over in the pot, injuring the roots. Place the root collar at the very surface of the substrate - all parts of the orchid should be in the air and not touch the water;
• leave air roots on the surface;
• water not by immersion, but with a generous spraying of sphagnum to stimulate root growth down to the damp surface.

Important! The orchid is very tenacious and can survive due to aerial roots.

Mold growth

Mold on the plant can appear due to decomposition of the potting mixture, excessive moisture and high temperature, which leads to fogging of the pot and the appearance of condensation. In such cases, it is necessary to change the conditions of the orchid and dry the substrate.

Mold is sometimes caused by fungal microorganisms, and here you will need a flower transplant with replacement of the mixture and treatment with fungicides

Air roots turn black

Blackening of the roots can occur for the following reasons:

• the plant was exposed to direct sunlight for a long time and was burned. Such blackening is also possible on the leaves;
• long-term decrease in temperature (+ 4 ... + 6 ° С) at high air humidity;
• watering or spraying with cold water;
• increased concentrations of fertilizers (only one fourth of the specified rate of flower fertilizers is required);
• deposition of salts in the substrate when watering with hard water;
• pathogenic diseases.

Find out what to do - the leaves are falling off the orchid.

How to reduce the emergence of new roots

Novice growers are advised to choose a modern plastic pot with transparent walls for growing orchids. Then it will be possible to monitor the state of the root system. To ensure a normal level of ventilation and watering the plant in the container, you need to make drainage holes up to 1 cm in size.

In addition, to reduce the likelihood of the formation of aerial roots, it is necessary to monitor the conditions for keeping a tropical guest, especially in winter. Since working heating radiators dry out the air, it is better to remove orchids from the windowsills deep into the apartment. Otherwise, the plant becomes uncomfortable, and in search of a source of moisture, it begins to build up tentacles that stretch in different directions.

If you do notice new growths, cover them with moss to maintain natural moisture levels. These beautiful flowers are quite light-requiring, so after moving the pot to the back of the room, you should take care of the presence of an additional source of lighting - a special phytolamp.

It should be remembered that the abundance of aerial roots is not a problem or a disease, but only requires the owner of the flower to correct the conditions for keeping the pet and the mode of its moisture.

Prevention measures

The most effective measures to prevent dryness of the roots of the ground and underground part of the flower are proper care, which consists in:

• timely and moderate watering;
• protection from cold air masses and direct sunlight;
• maintaining a constant temperature in the room;
• fight against pathogens.

Also, the plant should be fed with mineral fertilizers, the composition of which is developed taking into account the requirements of flowering epiphytes. Some preparations used as complex fertilizers also act as a natural antiseptic.

Root Modifications table

What it is?

ATTENTION: The aerial roots of the orchid are the thick roots of the common root system of the plant, which are located above the plant pot. They are cylindrical or flat.

In the structure of the roots there is a shell, or velamen, which resembles a sponge in structure... It prevents mechanical damage to the root and prevents it from drying out during sunny periods, serving as a water reservoir. You can find out more about the structure of the entire orchid here, and more details about the structure of the leaves can be found in this material.

By the color of the roots, you can determine the stage of growth development: a young plant is bright green, while a pale and muted color is a sign of an old root system.

Observe the condition of the flower roots... If within several months no new light green roots have appeared, it is necessary to reconsider the care of the plant and set a different time and intensity of watering.

The root also has a growing tip, its size does not exceed 1 cm. It is translucent and covered with a thin white layer, which is very easily injured and leads to inhibition of plant growth.

When do you need to trim

Cutting off the healthy root system of orchids is categorically contraindicated, and aerial shoots in this regard are no exception to the rule. Moreover, the more such roots a plant has, the higher the chance of its successful resuscitation in the event of rot in the rhizome or in the sinuses.

However, there are situations where root pruning is necessary, and above all it is about the removal of dry and rotten segments.Usually, in such processes, the velamen itself is easily removed from the wire-like base, so its further stay on the roots is undesirable.

The base itself is also of no value, since it loses its ability to absorb moisture without velamen. This means that you need to trim the roots along with these wires, leaving only healthy tissue intact.

But from the reddened, but retaining their integrity and density of the roots, on the contrary, it is not worth getting rid of, since there is an interaction of hard water and oxygen.

Effective resuscitation methods

In order to save culture, action must be taken immediately. Only in this way will you save the flower.

Pruning

This is the most common variant of culture resuscitation. Gently remove the flower from the pot, clean the underground part of it from the ground. Small pieces of soil can be dissolved in water by placing roots there.

Examine the stems of the flower carefully so as not to cut off the healthy ones. Even if the scions appear dry to you, they can remain viable. Do not overdo it with pruning as it is stressful for the plant.

You can determine which roots you need to get rid of as follows. Place the plant in warm water for several hours. After that, you will see that the healthy processes have become denser. You can cut those rods that have remained unchanged after such a procedure. Cut them off carefully, be sure to use a sharp device for this.

Do not forget to disinfect the device before starting the procedure. Leave small scions up to 5 mm long after trimming.

Dried root shoots should be trimmed

Disinfection of slices

Pay special attention to this procedure, the importance of which is often underestimated. In order to keep the flower healthy, use activated charcoal or cinnamon. Simply rub the stumps left on the flower with this powder.

The orchid has many aerial roots

Sometimes a large number of aerial roots indicates the need to transplant a flower into a pot with a larger capacity.

Orchids usually like to be rooted to the substrate, like a tree in their natural environment, so most of the root system remains in the pot. However, as the plant grows, the potting environment becomes so clogged with roots that it becomes cramped for them and they grow outward. In such cases, plant transplantation should be considered.

If the flower has many roots

What are the reasons?

There are several reasons for the appearance of a large number of aerial roots:

• Air temperature... Their growth increases at high temperatures. Most often, active growth occurs in winter, when heating radiators heat the flowerpots on the windowsill and dry the air.
• Excessive watering... With a large amount of moisture, the orchid forms additional roots, otherwise rotting may begin.

• 
  Lack of moisture... It happens in a room where the air humidity is too low and watering is rarely done.

• Lack of light... The root system of the orchid performs a photosynthetic function and, in case of a lack of light, the roots begin to grow in order to capture more light.
• Dense substrate... The soil in a flowerpot with a flower should be loose and allow air, light and water to pass through well. Densely compacted substrate can lead to rotting.

Important! Most often, there is no need to fight with the abundant growth of aerial roots, you just need to change the care of the plant.

Can I delete?

You can remove overgrown aerial roots, but only if:

• the process of decay has begun due to too abundant watering;
• they began to dry out from lack of moisture or dry indoor air.

Structural features

The appearance of aerial roots in orchids is normal in the wild. Plants with such very well developed roots are common.This is because orchids sometimes grow on trees or marshy surfaces, and then many aerial roots fix them on the substrate or tree trunk, providing a sufficient amount of air and nourishment of substances in the air.

In indoor flowers, aerial roots grow under certain conditions and care features. Most often this indicates insufficient attention paid to the plant.

The aerial roots of an orchid are thick, flat or cylindrical processes. The coating resembles a sponge and is called velamen. It is thanks to her that moisture is absorbed from the air. On sunny days and extreme heat, the sponge dries out to stop possible moisture loss. And when it gets wet, it turns green due to the high content of chlorophyll, which helps orchids take part in photosynthesis.

When the velamen dries up, it turns white or silvery with gray. Vessels are located under the sponge. They are collected in bundles and act as water reservoirs that deliver moisture to the rest of the plant.

Normally, the formation of such processes in an orchid occurs every two months, if this does not happen, then care must be reviewed, paying special attention to watering the plant.

What if you got out of the pot outside?

Several roots of orchids that have crawled out of the pot are the norm.... But a large number of them speaks of improper care and it needs to be revised:

• You don't need to trim them.
• Control the amount of light.
• Adjust watering.
• If the plant is cramped, transplant it.

IMPORTANT: If the flower is cramped, then it is easy to understand: it has wilted and pale leaves, has stopped growing. It's time to replant!

Transplant orchids in early spring or after flowering... If the tips of the roots turn bright green, then this means that they have begun to grow. Wait until they grow back a little. When replanting, be very careful - the roots are very fragile.

1. Before removing the plant from the pot, dip it in water so that the substrate is soaked and the flower can be easily removed.
2. When removed from the pot, rinse the roots from the old soil.
3. Examine the roots for decay and dry spots. If there are such, cut and process the slices.
4. Plant in new soil.

Diseases

With improper care, the plant is attacked by various fungal and viral diseases.

Putrefaction

They start to rot with the wrong watering regime. This is facilitated by the fact that between waterings the roots do not dry out, but are constantly in the moist bark. There is no oxygen access to them for the process of photosynthesis.

To get rid of decay, you need remove the flower from the substrate and remove all rotting roots... At the same time, the sections are treated with any antiseptic - wood ash is perfect for this purpose. Then the flower is dried for 8 hours and planted in a new substrate.

Photo of rotten orchid roots.

IMPORTANT! The first watering after this procedure is best done after 5 days. This time will allow the plant to heal all wounds after all the procedures performed.

Read more about root rot in this article.

Shrinking

This happens the moment the plant is not watered for a long periodand they dry out in the absence of moisture. To resume growth, the flower is removed from the soil and everything dry is cut off.

If there were no fresh sections, then you do not need to sprinkle dry ones with an antiseptic. Then start resuscitation in any convenient wayto grow new roots for the orchid.

You can read more about drying out here.

Lack of roots

Orchid without root mass cannot exist. Since they deliver nutrients taken from the environment.

If the root system dies, the main part of the flower will remain without food and will also die, gradually drying out the foliage.

The flower reacts quite quickly to a change in cultivation conditions or irrigation with the wrong water. therefore if only a small part of the roots died, then the plant will be able to cope with their growth on its own. For this, it will donate one leaf for root growth.

If almost everyone died - we need to start building them immediately, since without them the flower will not survive.

You can get more information on what to do with a rootless orchid here.

Other problems

Roots may die:

1. If they grow in ordinary soilintended for the cultivation of other indoor plants;
2. After transplanting some of the roots die off, but at the same time new ones begin to develop on the bush, having hatched from the trunk or broken off old roots.

IMPORTANT! It is worth remembering that a flower without roots cannot exist and it is necessary to help grow new ones.

You can read more about other possible root problems here.

How to build up?

If you lose the root system, you can grow them by various methods:

1. Using for this Kornevin;
2. Using water and activated carbon;
3. Using a mini greenhouse and sphagnum moss.

Growing roots in a greenhouse.

Whichever option the florist chooses, it is necessary to unswervingly fulfill all the requirements for the resuscitation of the plant... Because if you skip at least one, for example, treatment with phytosporin, then the flower will continue its disease and die.

For more information on how to grow orchid roots, read this article.

Resuscitation in the absence of the underground part of the roots

If only aerial roots remain, and the lower part of the plant has undergone complete processing after the removal of putrefactive foci, has dried out enough, but the roots on it are completely absent, then there is an option of planting in a new container with the deepening of some aerial roots... Especially long roots should not be buried in the substrate, leaving them at the top to obtain food from the atmospheric air.

Orchid is a rather capricious, but very life-loving plant. While the underground part is being reanimated, the ground one will provide and support the life of the plant, receiving what it needs through the atmospheric air. And since many types of orchids can be propagated by cuttings of aerial roots, then when rooting, there is a chance that 4 out of 5 of these plants will take root.

Important! When rooting orchids, the main thing is to observe the sequence and correctness of resuscitation measures.

How do they differ from ordinary

Aerial roots are a lot like normal roots growing in a substrate - it's just a different root arrangement. They are slightly thicker and are the healthiest on the plant, as they grow in conditions close to the natural habitat of the flower.

Indoor orchids are usually grown in a soilless mixture based on pine bark or sphagnum moss to simulate natural growth conditions in trees.... Over time, this potting mixture deteriorates and needs to be replaced, and the inner roots are at high risk of developing root rot and fungal infections.

The orchid seeks new sources of nutrients, light and moisture, so its roots twist and twist in all directions, but most of them remain in the drainage pot. If the orchid does not have aerial roots, then, most likely, when they appear, they have taken root in the substrate.

Recovery care

Root pruning becomes stressful for the plant. Therefore, after such a procedure, the plant is not temporarily moved until it is fully restored. The minimum period for a travel ban is 2 months. During that period, the plant is left far from heating appliances. To prevent direct sunlight, the window is covered with a matte transparent film to create diffused lighting.

Epiphyte is regularly moistened with a little water.To increase humidity, the air around the plant is regularly sprayed from a spray bottle. Fertilizers are contraindicated during this period. The flower should recover naturally without the use of stimulants. During the day, the plant is provided with an air temperature of about +24 degrees. At night, this figure is reduced to +16 degrees.

Only the root is left of the plant - what to do?

If only the roots remain from the plant, then nothing can be done with them, just throw out... But if the roots are attached even a small piece of the trunk, albeit dry, you can try to raise a baby... Since there are dormant buds on the trunk, from which the vegetative part can form.

Orchid plants themselves are quite tenacious, and you can try to get a new small plant.

Read more about saving an orchid with only roots here.

Is it possible to grow an orchid from the root?

You can get the most detailed information on root propagation of an orchid here.

Monopodial

Do not grow a monopodial flower from the rootbecause there will be no growth point. But if a bunch of dry roots with a small dry stem and no leaf mass got to the florist, you can try to raise a baby on a trunk... From this, the existence of this orchid will continue.

To do this, pour 2 cm of water into a glass jar and put dry roots in it so that they get slightly wet from below. At the same time, the barrel is in a dry state and looks out of the neck of the container.

After a long time on the stem little kids may appear, which, upon reaching the required size, are transferred to a permanent place of residence.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to monitor the level of liquid in the jar, not allowing it to dry out.

Read more about whether it is possible to grow an orchid from the root, read here.

Sympodial

This method reproduces only those plants that have a pseudobulb in their structure... Because from the junction, where the roots and the bulb grow, a sprout appears, from which a new bulb with its roots subsequently develops.

In this way, the plant reproduces, creeping over the soil available to it. It should be noted that Phalaenopsiswhich is often sold in supermarkets, does not reproduce in this way.

Orchid propagation by dividing the rhizome.

Read more about root propagation in this article.