How to care for raspberries in the fall to properly prepare for winter

Proper autumn preparation of raspberries for winter consists of a set of agrotechnical measures, the implementation of which is the basis for obtaining a decent harvest next year. It is not enough just to cut the raspberries (you can read the step-by-step instructions for autumn pruning in our separate article), you need to feed the bushes, carry out pests, cover the raspberries, and take all the measures on time and in the correct sequence. Each item of autumn care for raspberries will be discussed in detail in this article.

Description of the variety

By crossing the Stolichnaya and Shtambovy-1 raspberry varieties, the Tarusa variety was obtained. Since 1993, he began to win the hearts of amateur gardeners in our country.

The second name of Tarusa raspberry is "Raspberry tree". The variety acquired this name due to rather powerful straight shoots, similar to the trunk of a tree. Experts conditionally call such varieties "standard".

Raspberry Tarusa grows up to two meters in height, has a shoot thickness of two centimeters. The processes are straight, elastic and dense, of equal thickness along the entire length. There are no thorns.

The leaves are large, dark green, heart-shaped, with pronounced veins. Thanks to its powerful crown, the Tarusa raspberry captivates with its decorative effect.

The main plus of the variety is berries. The fruits are large, blunt-conical in shape, with a bright scarlet or burgundy hue. One berry weighs an average of 12-16 grams. Quite juicy, not too sweet. Small seeds are practically not felt, so the berry can be used fresh or processed into compotes and jam.

Video: raspberry Tarusa - acquaintance

Raspberry Tarusa: a raspberry tree in your garden

Many amateur gardeners have heard the phrase "crimson tree" many times. The first variety of such a tree was the Tarusa raspberry. Tall, strong and completely studless stems make harvesting, planting and caring for the plant much easier. And the rich harvest of rather large berries will not leave anyone indifferent. If you are looking for another novelty for your garden, we present to your attention the Tarusa raspberry variety.

Landing features

In order to give the Tarusa raspberry bushes the appearance of a small tree, it is necessary to strictly observe agricultural technology. It usually starts with the selection of a site and planting young seedlings.

When choosing a site for planting Tarusa raspberries, give preference to the most illuminated, draft-free place. Groundwater should be located at a level of at least 1.5 meters.

Try to carve out a spot for raspberries away from crops such as tomatoes, potatoes, and strawberries, as they share a lot of common pests.

The soil for Tarusa raspberries should be loose, drained, enriched with useful substances. Loamy and sandy loam soil is best suited.

It is advisable to plant raspberries at the end of October, when the growing season of the plant begins to slow down. And you can also plant in early spring, as soon as the air warms up above 15 degrees.

It is advisable to buy Tarusa raspberry seedlings in a nursery. It is necessary to choose strong shoots with elastic roots.

Raspberry planting rules:

1. Prepare a hole 1.5 meters long and 30 centimeters deep.
2. Place sawdust, leaf humus or compost on the bottom of the hole.
3. Place the sprout in the hole at the level of the root collar.
4. Cover the hole with earth.
5. Cut off the tops of the appendages at the level of 30-40 centimeters above the ground.
6. Water abundantly.
7. Mulch the holes with sawdust or leaf humus.

Video: secrets of successful planting of a variety

In order for the harvests to continue to delight from year to year, it is necessary to transplant raspberries to a new place every 8-10 years.

Raspberry Tarusa looks great along the fence

Protection against diseases and pests

• From fungi, the plantation can be treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
• To combat moss and lichens, the land around the bush is treated with a pale solution of copper sulfate.
• For insects, raspberries can be treated with solutions of fufanon, actellik or intavir immediately after harvest.
• Fufanon is prepared in a proportion of 10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water, this amount is enough to process 8 bushes. 1 ampoule of Actellik insecticide is diluted in 2 liters of water, and 1.5 liters of the finished solution are used per 10 m2 of the plantation. Intavir is released in tablets, before use, 1 tablet is dissolved in a bucket of water and all the bushes are treated.

Reproduction

Tarusa raspberries can be propagated both by root cuttings and by root shoots. Let's consider each method in more detail.

Raspberries Tarusa can be propagated by root cuttings and shoots

Breeding rules of the variety by cuttings:

1. It is necessary to dig up an adult bush and select the roots that have buds.
2. Set aside a pair of buds on each handle.
3. Place them in boxes filled with the same ratio of peat and river sand.
4. Leave the plants to root in a fairly light and moderately warm area.
5. When the cuttings take root, each sprout must be transplanted into a separate container with fertile soil. And already next year you will have full-fledged young seedlings in stock.

Breeding order of Tarusa by root shoots:

1. Dig up young shoots with roots.
2. Plant in pre-prepared beds, fertilize, water and mulch.
3. If raspberries do not produce young shoots, the main stems must be cut to ground level. After a short time, new shoots will appear.

Raspberry varieties Tarusa - description

Shrub from the Rosaceae family up to one and a half meters high. It differs from ordinary raspberry in its shoots - resistant, thickened, resembling a tree trunk.

The Tarusa raspberry tree is the most productive raspberry variety

To obtain the standard shape of the bush, pinching of the top is carried out, which stimulates branching and removal of the lower lateral shoots. The root system is compact, does not grow over the site. Lignified branches do not have thorns. The tree is covered with large velvety leaves. Fruit twigs form a crown, as on ordinary trees. Blooms profusely. The fruits ripen in July. The berries are large, conical, with excellent taste and unique aroma.

Large-fruited raspberry tree - video

The Tarusa tree raspberry was bred by Russian scientists by crossing the Stolichny and Shtambovy varieties.

The advantage of this tree is that it bears fruit before the onset of cold weather, gives little overgrowth, therefore it does not conquer new territories.

Berries of Tarusa are large, larger than cherries

Tarusa is not a tree in the direct sense of the word. It acquired this name due to its structure - in the form of a straight tree with a thickened trunk and upper branches.

Dignity

With its features, Tarusa attracts the attention of summer residents. Although, like any variety, there are disadvantages.

Special Features - Table

pros		Minuses
Resistance to pests and diseases (even if damaged by parasites, fruiting does not decrease)
High yield (with proper agricultural technology, up to 4 kg of berries are harvested from the bush)
Large fruits (weight up to 1.7 g)		Not so sweet and rich taste (especially in rainy summers)
Winter hardiness (the ability to endure unfavorable winter conditions without damage: damping, soaking, icing		Instability to severe frosts (at temperatures above -30 degrees, shoots can freeze out)
Easy transportation (dense berries do not choke)
The compactness of the bush (gives a little overgrowth, does not grow in the garden)
Strong stems do not need support (withstand large yields)
The absence of thorns on the trunks (when working with bushes, you can not be afraid to get hurt)
Unpretentious care (quickly takes root, grows both in the sun and in partial shade)

Landing features

Raspberry is a tenacious plant. Planting and growing it is not difficult, but, as with other berry crops, a number of rules must be followed.

Optimal timing

The most favorable period for planting Tarusa is autumn, you can plant all September until the end of November, when the soil is not frozen yet. Raspberries are planted in the spring, at the earliest possible date, before the buds swell, but the seedlings may lag behind in growth and will begin to bear fruit only the next year.

Spring is the best time to plant Tarusa

Site selection:

1. This berry culture prefers sunny locations. It can grow in the shade, but the harvest will be less plentiful and the fruits are less sweet.
2. A separate area protected from the wind is set aside for the bushes, or planted along the fences.
3. They choose an elevated place where there is no stagnant groundwater.
4. Every 8-10 years, raspberries are transplanted so that they do not lose their yield. The bushes can be planted in the same place after 5 years.
5. Raspberries prefer to grow on loamy and sandy loam soil, loose and fertilized.
6. Does not tolerate soil acidification, takes root poorly, and is more susceptible to diseases.

For raspberries, unwanted "neighbors" are garlic, parsley, grapes, sea buckthorn - the joint cultivation of these crops has a bad effect on their growth and productivity. As "friends" he prefers cucumbers, onions, carrots and red currants.

Selection of seedlings

If you decide to grow a raspberry tree in your home, take care of high-quality planting material. Purchase healthy seedlings only in specialized garden centers. Examine the roots carefully - they should be free from damage and decay.

Preparing for landing

The most favorable period for planting Tarusa is autumn time, until mid-October. This crop is planted in the spring, at the earliest possible date, but the growth of seedlings will not be so intense and they will begin to bear fruit only next year.

The soil for a raspberry tree is prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting:

1. 2 buckets of rotted manure, 250 g of ash and 150 g of complex fertilizer per 1 square meter are introduced into the soil. m.
2. Strongly acidic soil is lime (600 g of lime per 1 sq. M).
3. After the introduction of nutrients, the earth is dug up and loosened.

Step-by-step disembarkation process:

On the day of planting, holes are dug. You should leave enough space between the bushes (1 m), between the rows 1.5 - 2 m.

1. Ash, chicken droppings are introduced into the pits.
2. The seedling is lowered to the level of the root collar - to a depth of 6 - 7 cm.
3. Filled with soil and tamped.
4. Water well - at least 8 liters per bush.
5. The shoots are shortened to 25 - 30 cm.
6. The trunk circle is mulched with dry hay, coniferous litter, humus, sawdust, onion husks with a layer of at least 10 cm.
7. The first days, young plants shade: fragile shoots in the open sun can simply die.

Healthy seedlings on prepared nutrient soil will take root well, quickly grow and begin to bear fruit.

Important! Mulch protects the ground from overheating in the summer heat, reduces moisture evaporation and weed growth. In winter, it reliably covers the roots, protects from freezing.

Planting raspberries in autumn - video

Reproduction

The raspberry tree is propagated by root cuttings and shoots.

• The easiest way is to propagate by root shoots: new shoots that have appeared around the bush are undermined and separated with a small piece of the root. Young shoots are planted in a pre-prepared place. In order for an adult bush to give more shoots, the central part of the shoot is cut to the ground - and soon new shoots appear.

• When propagating by cuttings, a bush is undermined, the roots are selected and cut into pieces with 1-2 buds. Cuttings are rooted in pots of sand and peat (1: 1) in a warm, well-lit room. You will have good seedlings by next season.

Pots with raspberry cuttings are placed in a warm, bright room

Correct care

It is not difficult to grow Tarusa, but you need to properly care for and shape it so that you have a beautiful and healthy tree. Loosen the soil, water, feed, remove weeds, and prevent diseases. In gratitude for the attention to itself, the raspberry tree will surely give you a generous harvest.

Watering

The variety is moisture-loving. It is necessary to regularly moisten the soil, especially in the first time after planting. But do not fill. Raspberries do not tolerate constant water stagnation and waterlogging of the soil.

There are several types of watering raspberries:

• Drip irrigation, in which plants receive water directly into the root zone.
• Sprinkling, when water is sprayed from a hose in the form of rain over the plant.
• Through the grooves: grooves 10-15 cm deep are laid on both sides of the row 40 cm from the plant, water is poured into them (5-7 liters per bush) and allowed to be absorbed. Then the furrows are filled up and the soil is loosened.

Watering is carried out throughout the growing season, especially during flowering and ovary formation. Raspberries also need moisture during the ripening of fruits, but then they are watered not by sprinkling, but through grooves, moistening the soil to a depth of 30 cm. Or by drip irrigation. The last watering is carried out during leaf fall (in the second half of October), in the absence of autumn precipitation.

Care features

Caring for raspberries of standard varieties is quite simple:

• It is important to remember that raspberries respect moisture, but cannot tolerate excess moisture. It is worth watering raspberries abundantly at the time of fruiting so that the berries become juicy. During rainy periods, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of excess water.
• Mulching is necessary during dry periods.
• In the spring, Tarusa needs to be fertilized with urea (at the rate of 50 grams per bucket of water). At the beginning of summer, mineral fertilizers are desirable (30 grams per bucket of water).
• It is also necessary to weed the weeds in a timely manner.

Formative bush pruning usually held in mid-autumn. It consists in cutting out stunted shoots and cutting off the tops at a level of 30 centimeters from the ground. As a result, each bush should have 5–6 strongest shoots. The shoots must be cut out in a timely manner, leaving 8 centimeters above the ground.

Video: pruning raspberry bushes

Preparing for winter

Tarusa is quite frost-resistant. However, if your area is dominated by cold and snowless winters, you need to consider plant conservation. To do this, after harvesting, while the shoots are flexible, they are bent to the ground.

Top dressing

Autumn feeding of raspberries is one of the important aspects of successful plant cultivation. If fertilizers are applied in the summer to increase yields, then, starting in August, feeding is to help the plant recover faster after fruiting, gain strength for a successful winter, and completely complete the process of ripening and lignification of the shoots.

How to feed raspberries in the fall

• under natural conditions, raspberries grow in humus-rich areas, therefore, for garden raspberries, the best feeding is rotted manure, compost and chicken droppings. On average, 2-3 buckets of manure mixed with two handfuls of ash must be added per 1 m2. Autumn feeding with organic fertilizers should be carried out at least once every three years;
• the introduction of mineral fertilizers also successfully affects the development of the plant, but only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used to prepare for winter. Nitrogen fertilizers will lead to active growth of shoots, as a result, they will not have time to ripen and the probability of winter freezing of the entire shrub increases sharply. As for the quantity, it is enough to add 40 g of granular superphosphate (dose of double superphosphate 20 g / m2) and 20 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2 of raspberries to fully cover the plant's need for potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. It is important to remember that mineral fertilizers must be applied to the depth of the roots, and not scattered over the surface of the earth, therefore, such top dressing is most often accompanied by digging up the earth. In order not to damage the roots, dig in the aisles to a depth of no more than 15 cm, and in rows to a depth of 7-10 cm.

Nitrogen fertilizers are good in spring, when it is just important for raspberries to quickly build up green mass.

Harvesting

Tarusa raspberries begin to ripen in mid-July. Harvesting continues until August.

Harvesting is necessary as the berries ripen, every two to three days, in dry weather. It is not recommended to sprinkle the raspberries, as the berries are too tender. For transportation, the berries should be plucked with a stalk, due to this, they will not let juice and will be better preserved.

The best way to eat raspberries is fresh. Although most summer residents traditionally prefer cooking jam and compotes from it.

It is recommended to store raspberries in the refrigerator for a week. If there is not enough time to process the harvested crop, the best solution would be to freeze the berries, having previously decomposed them in plastic forms or plastic bags. And also the berries can be dried and laid in glass jars.

Already in early July, you can enjoy the first berries of Tarusa

Advantages and disadvantages of Tarusa

Like any variety, Tarusa has its own set of pros and cons.

Table: variety characteristics

Dignity	disadvantages
High yield	Insufficiently sweet and bright aftertaste
Large-fruited	Twisted and doubled berries are not uncommon.
Good transportability of berries	Aphid insecurity
Disease resistance	Weedlessness
Frost resistance
Strong shoots
Complete absence of thorns on the shoots

Abundant harvest of rather large raspberries "Tarusa"

Gardeners reviews

The choice of a variety does not always meet expectations, because the most important component of success is proper care. And in combination with the desire to grow a good harvest of berries in their area, even amateur gardeners get excellent results.

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A good harvest depends not only on full-fledged care of raspberries during the growing season, but also after its end (fruiting). In order for berry plantings to winter well, they need to be well prepared for winter in the fall. This rule applies to all plants growing on the site, including raspberries.

Autumn watering raspberries

Very often, gardeners are interested in the question, should caring for raspberries in the fall include watering? And if so, how often and to what extent?

The answer to this question directly depends on the weather conditions. If the weather is dry, it is recommended to pour 1 bucket of water per 1m 2 of the plantation once every 2 days. Firstly, it will save the plant from premature shedding of foliage, which is necessary for storing nutrients. And secondly, it will prevent the roots from freezing in the event of unexpected frosts. Watering should be stopped when night frosts begin.

Pruning raspberries in the fall

Shortly before the onset of persistent cold weather, in the fall, raspberries must be properly cut: weak annual shoots are removed from the bush, stems older than 2 years, which are easy to distinguish by their dark brown color.If the shrub has grown strongly, and there is not enough space between the rows for normal growth, young light brown lateral offspring are cut off. Thinning raspberries has not only an aesthetic function, but also increases its resistance to frost.

Most experienced gardeners not only prune shoots and young raspberry offspring in the fall, but also remove the leaves after pruning. The thing is that after the onset of rainy cold weather, the leaf plates begin to rot and tightly cover the flower buds, as a result of which the latter are affected.

Note! It is necessary to remove the leaves after pruning raspberries in the fall from the bottom up, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the flower buds.

You can quickly and safely remove leaves on a shrub with tight gloves that will serve as a barrier from sharp thorns. In order to clean the shoot qualitatively, it is moderately clasped and carried with the hand up. At the end of the manipulation, healthy one-year-old shoots without leaves should remain on the bush.

Why you need to trim

Many gardeners, especially beginners, ask themselves in the fall: do you need to cut raspberries for the winter? This is necessary because regular pruning of raspberries in the fall is an integral part of care aimed at getting a generous harvest of fragrant berries for the next year.

In addition, you need to prune raspberries in the fall in order to:

1. Raspberry fit the size, specified in the description of the variety: raspberries have the ability to shrink in the absence of pruning in the fall.
2. Bushes ok moved the winter season.
3. The plants had high immunity.
4. Give landings an aesthetic look and at the same time make room for manipulations near each bush.
5. Prevent wintering pests and their distribution to nearby plants.
6. Bushes well lit.

Important! It is recommended to cut raspberries not only in the fall for the winter, but also in the spring, and in the summer.

Video: how and why to cut raspberries in the fall

Timing of pruning raspberries

The optimal time for pruning raspberry bushes is August-September. Many gardeners are of the opinion that the manipulation is best done just before the onset of winter, but this statement is erroneous.

Such late pruning has a detrimental effect on plants: during the postponement of manipulation, pests and diseases actively multiply on the branches, which significantly worsen the condition of the bushes and reduce the likelihood of their wintering.

Note! It is best to prune raspberries for the winter immediately after picking the last berries.

How to properly trim (including remontant): instructions and methods of trimming

To unleash the full potential of pruning, first of all, it must be done correctly.

Correct pruning of raspberries in the fall is carried out as follows:

• Dried, diseased and very damaged annual shoots are removed.
• Cut off the old 2-year-old shoots.
• A heavily thickened raspberry tree must be thinned: by 1 sq. m should remain 8-10 stems.
• To destroy the pests, the cut branches are piled up and burned.
• The land near the bushes is carefully dug in and fertilized;
• Shoots are treated with iron vitriol.

At the end of the raspberry pruning, healthy shoots should remain in the fall, the number of which approximately coincides with the number of cut branches.

Important! Pruning raspberries in the fall should be done with a sharp garden pruner: due to the use of blunt knives and scissors, the cut sites take a very long time to heal.

If there is a need for reproduction, the shoots near the bushes are dug up and transplanted. In the case when the expansion of the raspberry tree is not planned, it is pulled out or cut off.

By the way! You can read about how to properly transplant (propagate) raspberries in autumn and spring. in this material.

Features of pruning remontant raspberries for the winter

Raspberry remontant varieties bear fruit on one-year and two-year shoots. The scheme for pruning raspberries of remontant varieties in the fall depends on how much harvest is planned for the next season.

For the purpose of one-time collection of berries, remontant raspberry bushes are cut for the winter in the same way as raspberries of ordinary varieties: the shoots are completely cut off, leaving only very short shoots near the soil itself.

Video: how to prune remontant raspberries in the fall

Double cropping

The double pruning of raspberries according to Sobolev has a good effect on the yield, according to which remontant bushes are cut according to a certain pattern in May-June for 2 years in a row:

• 1st trim: in stems with a height of 70-90 cm, the top is cut off by 10-15 cm. After manipulation, the plant begins to actively form lateral stems.

Note! The first pruning should not be postponed for a long time, since the young side shoots will not have time to grow before winter and will freeze out. It is optimal to spend it around the beginning of summer, that is, in June.

• 2nd crop: as soon as the first leaves appear on the bush, the top is once again shortened by 5-15 cm: even more new stems will form on the bush.

As a result of double pruning according to the Sobolev method, significantly more ovaries grow on raspberry bushes than after ordinary pruning.

Video: how to increase your raspberry yield with double pruning

How to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning

During the berry season, raspberries are fed several times with fertilizers rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Important! As a rule, berry bushes are still fed in the spring, so we advise you to read the material about spring feeding of raspberries.

With the onset of autumn (but not after fruiting), experts recommend feeding raspberry bushes potash and phosphorus fertilizers, as they increase the immunity and frost resistance of the bushes.

Pruning some raspberries

Recently, many gardeners prefer standard raspberries. The most popular variety of this type of plant can be called Tarusa. This raspberry tree bears abundant fruit and belongs to the middle late variety.

Timely pruning of Tarusa raspberries for the winter, feeding and processing with special means, tying the plant are important measures. In early spring, the plant is sprayed with special substances for various diseases. Bordeaux mixture is often used for these purposes. Re-processing is carried out in the middle of autumn. In early May, experienced gardeners recommend loosening the ground between the bushes. In October, the shoots are tied and slightly bent to the ground.

Watering is very important for Tarusa. This is usually done once a week. Most of all, the plant needs watering during flowering and fruiting. Although this variety of raspberries is tree-like, pruning of Tarusa raspberries is still required.

They are usually pruned in early June. By the end of summer, about 6 lateral branches grow on the bush. In this form, raspberries remain for the winter. At the end of May, a second pruning is done: the side branches are shortened by 10 cm.

Remontant raspberries, especially the Polka variety, are also very popular among summer residents. The bush has a high yield, the berries are larger and sweeter than those of common raspberries. As for such moments as pruning Polka raspberries in the winter, the work algorithm here is similar to caring for ordinary raspberry varieties.

Preparing raspberries for winter

Whether raspberries overwinter well depends not only on the weather and climatic conditions of your place of residence, but also on the quality of care in the fall and preparation for winter.

The necessary manipulations to prepare raspberries for winter are carried out in the following order:

1. To protect the kidneys from the so-called scalding, leaves are removed: the stem is loosely wrapped around and carried by hand from bottom to top.
2. Landings cleaned of debris, piled up in heaps away from the bushes and burned.
3. The peeled branches are bent low and fixed (in other words, tie up): such a manipulation will protect the stems from severe cold weather. If in the region where the berries are grown there are winters with little snow with severe frosts, the raspberries are covered with snow on their own.
4. Straw 10-20 cm thick is poured over the plants, in other words, mulch: this mulch will not only perform the function of additional insulation, but will also protect the planting from the attack of rodents.

Correctly and on time preparation of raspberries in the fall for winter will protect thin stems from freezing.

Mulching

Before covering the raspberries for the winter, the soil is loosened a little and the last top dressing is applied. Too dry soil is recommended to be watered sparingly.

By the way! Mulching is especially important in regions with severe and little snowy winters, since there is a high risk of freezing and death of the raspberry tree in such conditions.

How to mulch raspberries for the winter?

As a covering material, rotted sawdust (in no case fresh!), Foliage and plant residues (for example, tops from velvet and other annual flowers), peat, rotted manure (ideal for remontant raspberries, however, it is also suitable for ordinary ones). The optimal thickness of the mulching material is 10 cm: thanks to this layer of cover, the plants will be well protected from frost, and will not undermine during warming.

Shelter for the winter

Before laying the mulching material, the root collar is slightly sprinkled with earth, and so that the melt water does not have a place to collect, the soil near the bush is leveled. Cut and peeled leaves are strongly bent to the ground and secured with staples. To prevent raspberries from freezing, the height of the bent bushes should be no more than 40-50 cm.

Important! Even a slight peeking of the stems from under the snow should not be allowed, since the buds on them will not tolerate even moderate frosts: the temperature on the surface of the snow cover is the lowest.

The soil on the site and the bent branches are covered with dry straw or foliage. Instead of organic mulch, the stems can be wrapped in plastic, spunboard.

The importance of sheltering raspberries for the winter directly depends on the weather in the growing region. You can not strongly insulate the shrub in the southern regions, since it can dry out.

Snow retention

Snow is a full-fledged insulation for all plants in the garden. To protect raspberries from severe frosts, they are covered with a layer of snow of 50-100 cm. In order to keep snow close to the raspberry, shields of wood or dry stalks of sunflower, corn are installed along one line in a checkerboard pattern.

Melted water is very useful for raspberries; before the onset of warm spring days, the snow near the bushes is carefully tamped and sprinkled with sawdust.

Mulching

The mulching procedure is carried out immediately after feeding the raspberries. The use of mulch has a number of advantages:

• maintaining soil moisture and, as a result, reducing the number of irrigations;
• additional insulation of the root system;
• overcooking, mulch becomes an excellent fertilizer.

Raspberries do not like an acidic or alkaline environment, so sawdust of coniferous trees is not suitable for mulching, but peat, straw, fallen leaves from the forest, seed husks can be safely used. In terms of thickness, the optimal range is considered to be 5-10 cm. We mulch less than 5 cm. We can allow freezing of the root system, more than 10 cm. - the risk of root heating, the development of fungi and infections in the places of contact of mulch and stems increases.

Do not use its foliage and shoots for mulching raspberries - they can be carriers of diseases and be affected by pests!

Features of preparing remontant raspberries for winter

Repaired raspberries also need special preparation for the winter. To do this, you need to fertilize it well before winter, since the plant will need a lot of strength for normal development in the next season.As a rule, fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus are applied under the remontant bushes of viburnum.

Unlike ordinary raspberries, you need to cut off remontant raspberries in the fall at the root (in the case of a planned one-time collection of berries in the next season).

After pruning in the fall, remontant raspberry bushes practically do not need insulation, since the upper part of the bush is absent, and the roots are not afraid of moderate frosts. In regions with harsh weather conditions, mulch is laid on top of the bush.

Thus, the cultivation of remontant raspberries has the following advantages in the fall preparation for winter:

1. Total pruning of raspberry bushes helps to completely get rid of all pests and diseases that have accumulated on the stems during the season.
2. Short "hemp" (or rather, practically absent) is much easier to insulate (they only need to be mulched).
3. Due to the lack of last year's stems, only autumn berries are tied. And since the plant did not expend its energy on the formation of the spring harvest, then in the fall the raspberry pleases not only with its quantity, but also with its quality (this applies only to the Central strip (Moscow region)where full pruning is recommended, in the South, repair raspberries can easily re-fruit until late fall).

Video: pruning and caring for remontant raspberries in the fall

Raspberry shelter

Of course, pruning raspberries for the winter is necessary. However, an equally important procedure is the shelter of the plant from the cold. It is best to use snow for sheltering shrubs in winter. The snow layer will provide reliable frost protection. The main thing is to ensure that no ice crust forms on the embankment. This will block air penetration. Therefore, the ice crust must be removed.
If the winter is not very snowy and there is not enough snowfall, foliage can also be used for shelter. The main thing is that the thickness of the deciduous layer is at least 30 cm. Also, the shrub can be covered with a special film, having previously made holes in it for ventilation. Such preparation of the raspberry tree is carried out in late autumn before the first snow falls.

If raspberries are growing in the garden, preparing for winter pruning, feeding and sheltering this plant is a must. Taking care of this culture is not difficult at all. But you need to know how and when to prune, how and at what time it is better to fertilize the plant, how to cover it for the winter. Only then will the raspberry tree delight the gardener with an excellent harvest of tasty and healthy berries.

What are the subtleties of preparing raspberries for winter in Siberia and the Urals

Raspberries are not endowed with special frost resistance, therefore, they need more thorough preparation for winter in the northern regions - Siberia and the Urals. To prevent the stems from freezing, they must be bent down and covered. As a result of bending, the branches will be covered with snow in winter, which will protect them from frost and cold winds.

If you want to get a bountiful harvest next year, then raspberries require careful preparation for winter and care in the fall. Correctly and timely done preparatory work will save the berry from freezing, the development of diseases and the wintering of pests.

Video: care, pruning in the fall and preparing raspberries for winter

The delicious and healthy raspberry, traditionally grown in summer cottages, has already yielded its harvest. Winter is approaching, and gardeners are faced with the question of how to prepare raspberries for winter. Proper preparation is the key to getting a good harvest in the future, so it's worth the work. Undoubtedly, you need to know how to care for raspberries in the fall. One of the most important stages of rejuvenation and increasing the productivity of raspberry bushes is their autumn pruning.

Raspberry shelter for the winter

When do you need to cover raspberries?

Firstly, if thermophilic varieties are planted on the site. And even if the varieties are frost-resistant, winter winds and drafts can be destructive for them.

Secondly, if there is little snow in the region in winter.

Thirdly, if the probability of early frosts is high.

Covering technology and timing

Before proceeding with the shelter of the bushes, they must be tied up and bent. And even if there is no danger of freezing, a raspberry garter is necessary so that the plant does not break under strong winds and under the weight of snow. There are several ways to bend the stems.

• To begin with, the bush is collected in a bunch, and then tilted and secured with staples, sticking them into the ground.
• Wooden stakes are stuck along the edges of the row, between which two wires are pulled at a height of 20 cm and 50 cm from the ground. Further, each whip separately, or their small bunches, is bent in an arc and attached to a stretched string. First, at a height of 50 cm, and after a while, when the branches get used to the position, they are lowered to a height of 20 cm.
• Small bundles of lashes are bent in an arc and attached to the lower part of adjacent bushes. This is the least expensive and easiest method, but it is suitable if the risk of freezing the plant is low.
• Vertical garter method. A support peg is placed in the center of the bush and a raspberry bush is tied to it, which is wrapped with agrofibre on top.

It is important to remember that the top of the bent bushes should be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the ground, depending on the region. In addition, the garter must be carried out before the onset of frost. Otherwise, the water in the stems will freeze and there is a high risk of breaking them when tying them.

Many summer residents are wondering how to cover raspberries for the winter? The best protector from winter frost is snow.

To cover plants, use:

• spruce branches, which, in addition to protecting from frost, also scares off mice;
• various non-woven materials, they can be selected depending on the strength of the frost;
• earth or humus - suitable for low-growing varieties with thin flexible whips.

Summing up, we can say that this berry is not so simple - raspberries in the fall, care and pruning are required. It, contrary to popular belief, does not apply to cultures from the "planted and forgotten" series. Others are frightened by remontant raspberries, caring for them in the fall and preparing for winter, but the differences from the usual ones are only in the timing of the work. And yet, how to care for raspberries in the fall so that there is a good harvest? To do this, with the end of summer, it is imperative to prepare the soil and apply top dressing, prune and tie the bushes, and if necessary, also treat them from parasites, replace old or diseased bushes, and in some cases cover the raspberry tree for the winter.

A good harvest depends not only on full-fledged care of raspberries during the growing season, but also after its end (fruiting and harvesting). In order for all berry bushes to winter well, they must be properly prepared for winter in the fall. This applies to all plants growing on the site, including raspberries.

Why prune raspberries?

Before answering the question of how to prepare raspberries for winter, we will define the stages of work. This is pruning, feeding, removing leaves and bending the stems. Bush pruning serves several purposes. First, all old, diseased and unnecessary branches are removed. Secondly, competent pruning will help to significantly increase the future harvest and survive the upcoming cold shoots. Thirdly, the thinning of the bushes has a good effect on the quality of the berries, in well-groomed plantings they are much larger than in neglected areas. Preparing raspberries for winter is carried out in September or early October. The timing of the autumn work is important. Reducing the air temperature to negative values ​​will not allow all stages to be carried out efficiently, so you should not wait for stable cold weather.

When to prune?

Pruning raspberries in late autumn

Often, for a novice gardener, the topic of pruning raspberries is one of the main ones. Someone says that it is better to do this in spring, others insist on summer processing of berry bushes.But many are prone to autumn gardening. Experts support precisely the pre-winter pruning of bushes.

The exact timing of the pruning is difficult to name. The main thing is to complete it before the onset of cold weather. Each region has its own climatic conditions, and the weather is sometimes unpredictable. Instead of sunny October days, bad weather may come with snow and the first frost.

A long warm autumn can provoke the appearance of insect pests and fungal diseases on the bushes.

Therefore, many advise: harvested, cut the bushes in early to mid September.

But there is also a significant disadvantage here: it will not be possible to form bushes in advance. Shoots can break under the weight of snow or freeze out at very low temperatures. This is the main reason for those gardeners who prefer to prune in the spring.

Slightly different terms for removing shoots from remontant raspberries. Since such varieties are ready to bear fruit almost to the snow, we start the procedure in November. There was not enough time in the fall, everything will have to be rescheduled for the spring.

Trimming technology: what you need to know

When caring about how to prepare raspberries for winter, you should remember that you must cut each stem to the very root. Even small stumps should not be left: insect pests penetrate and multiply into them. Two-year old stems are subject to pruning. It is easy to distinguish them - as a rule, they are dry and dark, standing out in appearance against the background of young, greenish shades, branches. Broken, weak, diseased shoots that do not grow properly inside the bush and young unnecessary shoots are also removed.

After pruning, 5-7 strong, viable and healthy stems are left in the raspberry bush. For row planting, no more than 10 shoots should be left for each meter of the length of the bed. Substantial thinning of the bushes is the best preparation of raspberries for the winter, ensuring a successful weathering of the cold weather.

Raspberry processing after pruning

In the fall, feeding is a necessary procedure. Indeed, during the entire period of fruiting, the bushes took a large amount of nutrients from the soil. As a result, the soil becomes depleted. And this has the most negative effect on the growth and development of the bush. Many gardeners are wondering how to process raspberries after pruning to increase yields.

Experienced summer residents recommend applying manure before digging up the row spacing. It takes about 5 buckets per square meter. This procedure should be carried out after two years on the third, not more often. Mineral fertilizers are also introduced in the fall. The complex fertilizer should contain potassium, phosphorus, ammonium sulfate. About 250 g of the product is applied per square meter. Such feeding is carried out the next year after the introduction of manure.

Freeing raspberries from pests

When pruning, you must carefully examine all the shoots. Pests often hibernate and develop in raspberry stems. For example, the raspberry gall midge, widespread in many regions of Russia, lays eggs in the stem, causing irreparable harm to it. The affected branches are well defined visually - characteristic swellings appear on them, tearing the upper layer of the bark. All cut stems should be burned. If this is not done, the pests will overwinter well and re-settle in raspberries, significantly reducing the yield.

How to get a bountiful harvest?

Surely after reading this article, readers will have no questions about when to trim raspberries. In the fall, of course! But many gardeners are also interested in how to increase yields. There is a special technology, thanks to which the berries will not disappear for two months. To do this, pruning should be done in the spring. The shoots must be divided into three parts. The first of them should be shortened by 15 cm, the second - by half, and in the third group, leave about 20 cm in length. This way you can harvest more abundant crops until September.

Double pruning

Double pruning of the bush contributes to an increase in the yield of raspberries. This is a time consuming but effective trick. It consists in pruning in the fall and early spring by 20-25 cm of the tops of the stems, which have reached a meter height. This method stimulates the development of lateral shoots, which, in turn, also branch out, forming new lateral stems with flower buds. As a result, a fan of strong lateral branches is formed on several main shoots, which not only contributes to an increase in the productivity of the bush, but also greatly simplifies its care and harvesting. With this method of growing raspberries, large intervals should be made between the bushes - at least 60-70 cm. Preparing raspberries for winter with this method of growing is of great importance: you cannot skip autumn pruning. It should be noted that this method is not suitable for remontant varieties of raspberries. Gardeners who specialize in the cultivation of such svida recommend cutting the bushes completely for the winter.

How is pruning done?

The first thing to start preparing raspberries for winter is pruning non-viable and excess shoots. This will allow the shrub to survive the winter season calmly, bloom in spring and give a good harvest in summer. Shoots are pruned, the age of which is 2 years or more. The work is carried out immediately after the whole berry harvest has been collected. They also rid the plant of weak, broken and diseased branches. If raspberries are pruned before winter, no more than 5-7 shoots should remain on the bush as a result.

Algorithm of how to properly prune raspberries for the winter:

1. examine the entire bush;
2. separate non-viable, weak and diseased shoots, and remove them;
3. cut off the tops from young branches and the main shoot: about 30 cm in length;
4. all cut off processes, leaves must be taken out of the raspberry tree and burned.

By performing these actions from year to year, the raspberry bush will grow beautiful and lush. It is also important to keep the distance between the bushes. Then picking berries in the summer will be much more convenient.

Knowing how to prune raspberries for the winter, the gardener will receive a bountiful harvest of delicious berries.

Today, more and more experienced gardeners use the Sobolev method of pruning raspberries, which involves double pruning. The technology differs in some laboriousness. The truth and the effect of it is much higher. The bottom line is as follows. In spring, the top of young shoots is cut off. The second time is caring for raspberries in the fall - pruning for the winter - all unnecessary processes are removed. As a result, the bush is cleared of all useless branches. Thus, the plant becomes more fruitful.

How to prepare raspberries for winter?

You should take care of the correct wintering of berry bushes in the summer. Carrying out the necessary feeding, one must adhere to the established norms and in no case overfeed raspberries. Excessive fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers reduces the frost resistance of the bush. A special role is played by the area where raspberries are grown. It should be well lit, sunlight makes the shoots strong enough to withstand the winter. After pruning under the bushes, you need to apply organic fertilizers (preferably humus) and dig up the soil layer. If the bed has been mulched, it is necessary to remove the mulch - field mice can start in it in winter.

Follow-up care

After shortening, the raspberry bush needs proper care:

• the plant is watered at the rate of 50-60 liters for each;
• the soil around the raspberries is covered with a layer of mulch in order to retain moisture, dry grass, deciduous litter, humus, peat, sawdust are suitable as it;
• the bush is covered for the winter with the help of covering artificial or natural materials;
• fruit and berry crops are fed, for feeding they use manure, poultry droppings, mineral complexes, organic matter, humus.

Raspberry: care in the fall

Pruning is the main, but not the only step in preparing the bush for winter.Usually raspberries are hardy enough, but extreme cold can destroy flower buds. To prevent this from happening, gardeners successfully use such a method as bending bushes to the ground. That's what it's done for. Snow cover has always been considered the best cover for shrubs and trees. Therefore, a raspberry bush, located in close proximity to the ground, is covered with snow even before the arrival of severe frosts. The average height of snow cover in central Russia reaches 50-60 cm, which means that a bush bent at a distance of less than half a meter from the ground will overwinter without loss.

It is important to remember that you need to bend the raspberry shoots so that they are completely under the snow. The stems should not be allowed to remain above the snow cover, this is the most dangerous and coldest zone, because the air temperature is the lowest near the snow. If raspberry bushes are planted on trellises, they are bent one to the other, fixing them to the lower wire or pinning them with metal hooks to the ground. This should be done until stable negative daily average temperatures have come. In such conditions, the stems become fragile, and it will not be possible to bend them without breaking.

Before bending the stems to the ground, you need to remove the foliage from them, since the remaining leaves get wet and begin to rot, which can provoke kidney burns. It is simple to remove the foliage from the stem: with your hand in a mitten, you need to loosely grip the shoot and hold it from the bottom up to the top. This will free the leaves and prevent the flower buds from breaking off.

That's all there is to know about preparing raspberries for winter. It remains to wait out the winter and in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, carefully release the stems bent to the ground. There is no need to rush things, you should let the bushes straighten up, take the desired shape on their own, and after some time, cut out the stems that could not survive the frost, snot or broke.

Purpose of the procedure

In order for the raspberry bush to bear fruit and bring a good harvest after planting, it must be pruned several times throughout the season.

Initially, the bush is shortened in the spring after the snow melts, then trimmed in the summer after picking the berries, and the final pruning occurs in the fall when preparing the plant for winter.

In each period of appointment, the procedures are different:

• in spring it must be carried out after planting or transplanting to a new place in order to prolong the fruiting stage, because the shorter the shoot, the later it will begin to bear berries;
• in summer, its task is to redistribute food flows to young branches with fruit buds;
• in the fall, it is made for sanitary purposes, followed by bending and garter.

Pruning is also necessary for a number of other reasons:

• old branches more than 2 years old become useless in terms of fruiting, therefore raspberries are cut all to the ground in order to avoid thickening in summer;
• trimmed shrubs free up space and do not create a favorable environment for the development of fungal and viral infections;
• remote and shortened shoots give rise to new fruiting shoots.

If you leave the branches in full length at the raspberry bush and do not interfere with the fruit and berry culture to actively increase the green mass, this will soon lead to a significant decrease in yield and cause the berries to shrink. Broken and dry shoots preserved on the plant will interfere with the appearance of fresh and young ones.

Tips for forming the right row

In the fall, you can think about replanting bushes or adjusting rows, although this can only be done by summer residents from the southern regions. Here are some tips for planting raspberries correctly:

• she prefers sunny places, protected from wind and drafts;
• planting can be done when the leaves begin to fall and a white basal bud appears;
• the plants are planted in rows according to the scheme: 70 cm apart and 1.5-2 m between the rows;
• it is recommended to add humus and a small amount of ash to the planting pit;
• if the formation of bushes is planned, then it is recommended to plant two plants in the planting pit at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other;
• when planting, the replacement bud should be several centimeters below the surface of the earth;
• when trenching bushes, you can arrange a trellis, for this, pillars are installed along the row with plants and a wire is attached to them at a height of 1 m, and branches are tied to the wire at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
• when landing, you need to make sure that all the roots look down;
• one-year young shoots, cuttings harvested after leaf fall, and varietal material from the nursery can serve as planting material in the fall;
• raspberries do not like the neighborhood with potatoes, strawberries and tomatoes;
• you can check the quality of the planting by pulling the bush, if it does not pull out, then everything is done correctly.

Differences in pruning in the Krasnodar Territory, Moscow Region, Siberia

Different climatic conditions make adjustments to the rules for autumn pruning of raspberries.

• in Siberia, autumn pruning is a mandatory agricultural technique. Cold winters require the use of covering materials; trimmed bushes will allow the covering procedure to be carried out faster and with less material costs;
• in Central Russia, in particular in the Moscow region, autumn pruning can be replaced with spring pruning. Long young shoots lend themselves more easily to bundling and bending to the ground. Bending down will protect against strong winds, icing, and will allow you to use the snow cover as a natural insulation. But covering materials in conditions of frequent thaws can play a cruel joke with the gardener - the condensation formed inside the shelter can lead to the development of fungal diseases, rot, mold;
• in the Krasnodar Territory, autumn pruning is carried out late, towards the end of autumn, thereby managing to get a second autumn harvest. The berries in the fall are most often small, the yield of the bushes is low, so they are definitely not enough for canning, but you will succeed in eating a fresh fragrant berry to relieve the autumn blues.

Autumn pest control

The key to a rich harvest next season is the treatment of raspberries from pests and diseases. After harvesting, it is recommended to thoroughly weed the area, loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm. These measures will help get rid of the pests preserved in the foliage and will not allow the larvae to overwinter in the soil.

The most common harmful insects include: raspberry beetle, flower beetle, spider mite, stem fly.

Raspberry beetle

It is able to significantly reduce the yield of berries or even lead to the death of the plant. Insects eat buds and fruits. The berries are poorly formed, grow deformed, wither and rot.

Beetles / larvae overwinter in the upper layers of the soil (at a depth of 15-20 cm.

Spider mite

Most often it lives on the seamy side of the leaves. Feeding on plant sap and multiplying, the tick gradually affects all parts of the bush: buds, leaves, shoots. When plants are damaged, flowering stops, the formed buds disappear.

Favorable breeding environment for the pest - thickened plantings, dry weather.

With the active spread of the tick, you can lose up to 70% of the crop. The tick hibernates on fallen leaves, weeds, therefore, the destruction of dry foliage, weeding of beds are the best preventive measures to combat the pest.

Stem fly

It actively develops in the branches of plants, causing the wilting of the shoots. To prevent the spread of the pest, it is recommended to cut off the damaged tops of the stems.

Do not be too zealous - only the upper part of the infected stems is cut. The cut pieces are immediately burned, as the larvae remain in them.

The optimal insect control is the autumn application of insecticides. Several tools have proven themselves well:

• Funafon - 10 ml of the product is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. A liter of solution is enough to process one bush;
• Intavir is available in tablets. Dissolve one tablet in a bucket of water;
• Actellik - sold in 2 ml ampoules. To prepare the solution, dilute one ampoule in two liters of water.

A solution of copper / iron sulfate can protect the bushes from lichen, moss or fungi. To increase the effect, it is recommended, in addition to plants, to process the soil near raspberries.

Autumn feeding raspberries

What kind of fertilizer to apply depends on many factors. First of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If it is poor, you can feed the plant with potassium sulfate (1 tsp. 1 sq. M.).

First of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil.

If during the planting of raspberries you enriched the soil with humus and humus, this means that in the future it will have enough potash feeding.

Raspberries are a hardy crop that prefers nutritious soil. If there is a lack of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil, in any case this will not affect its fruiting.

Treatment of raspberries against pests and diseases

So, in order to prevent the invasion of pests and keep the plant healthy, you need to remove all the debris near the raspberry tree. All broken branches will have to be disposed of by burning. The same activities should be carried out with rotten berries, broken branches, fallen leaves.

Dust and earth can be used as fertilizer. Once you are confident that your plants are full of health, it is not at all necessary to burn their leaves. You can send them to the compost heap.

During this period, you can re-treat with Bordeaux liquid. But use for this not 2% composition, but 5%. Perform full processing from the bottom to the very top.

For the procedure to be effective, spray the raspberry plant in clear, dry weather. In this case, you need to focus on the forecasts of weather forecasters - it is desirable that there is no rain for a day after processing.

An alternative to Bordeaux liquid can be non-banned insecticides. From the best side, such multifunctional preparations as Allegro and Aktara have proven themselves.

Step-by-step instructions for autumn pruning raspberries for beginners:

1. Remove any dead branches at the root, as well as any shoots showing signs of infection. Raspberries are especially susceptible to fungal diseases, which are actively developing in thickened plantings, which once again confirms the need for timely pruning;
2. Remove any broken or damaged shoots at the root. A broken branch will consume nutrients like an ordinary one, but you still can't get a decent harvest from it. Leaving such a shoot, you will only reduce the number of berries on the remaining branches of the bush;
3. Remove all fruit-bearing shoots at the root. You do not need to leave the hemp. Raspberry sprouts from the roots;
4. Remove all growths from mid-summer and any weak shoots. Before winter, these shoots will not have time to get stronger, most likely, they will die in winter, but even if they overwinter, then they will not get a high yield;
5. Prune young shoots in accordance with the recommendations presented in the section of the article "Autumn pruning height";
6. Burn the cut off shoots, as well as the crumbling foliage. As a mulch, the result of autumn pruning should not be left. You can get an excellent "breeding ground" of diseases and a place for wintering pests, thereby only harm your garden.

Planting raspberries Tarusa in spring

To grow a raspberry tree on the site, planting must be carried out in the right place. Plot selection criteria:

1. Well-lit area, protected from strong winds and drafts. Slight partial shade is allowed.
2. The soil must be necessarily fertile, loamy or sandy loam, rich in organic matter.
3. The acidity level of the soil for the shrub is 5.8-6.2.Lime must be added to the acidified soil in the fall.
4. Groundwater should not reach higher than 1 m to the surface, otherwise the root system of the seedling will begin to rot.

Raspberry Tarusa is planted in spring according to the following rules:

1. In the fall, it is better to prepare the soil: dig up, add manure. Clay is added to sandy soils, and sand to heavy soils.
2. In the spring, planting begins as early as possible in mid-March-early April.
3. It is better to dig the site again and outline the rows of bushes.
4. The distance between the seedlings should be at least 1 m, and between the rows - 2 m.
5. Pits are dug 50 by 50 cm in size, and at least 40 cm deep.
6. The seedlings are kept for 2-3 hours in a weak root-forming solution, for example, Kornevin.
7. A hill is built at the bottom of each hole. The seedling is placed on it, so that the root collar is at the same height with the top layer of soil, and the roots are gently straightened along the slopes.
8. The planting is covered with earth, which is lightly compacted.
9. Planting is completed with abundant watering of 5-7 liters of water per bush and mulching the soil.

What will happen if you do not do the preparation procedure

Lack of watering during dry pre-winter periods increases the risk of frost damage to the root system. It is advisable to change the landing site every 7 years.

The lack of constant pruning and thinning of raspberry bushes will turn the plantation into wild thickets, where it will be difficult to provide care and harvesting, and thickening can lead to the spread of diseases and pests, and a decrease in the quality and quantity of berries due to the lack of light and air.

Did you know? In the Philippines, the raspberry branch is believed to protect the home from evil spirits, and in medieval Germany, raspberry branches were tied to a horse to calm it down.

A combination of both summer and remontant varieties is a great way to maximize the ripening time of these delicious berries. We hope that these tips will be useful and will help you in preparing the raspberry tree for winter.

Stages of preparing raspberries for the winter period

Top dressing

At this point, one should be guided by a simple rule - an increased content of fertilizers in the ground reduces the frost resistance of raspberries. Proceeding from this, it is necessary to do the last enrichment of the soil according to a “simplified” program and precisely determine its term.

Raspberry pruning

In order for the plants in the raspberry to develop well next year, each bush should have a maximum of 4 shoots. With a row planting, their optimal number is no more than 10 per meter of plot. All dried, sick, broken, as well as growing sideways and interfering with adjacent bushes are removed unambiguously, and thoroughly, at the root, preferably level with the ground.

Even the remaining small "hemp", given that the inside of the dried stems are almost hollow, are potential places for the accumulation of various garden pests. They will overwinter there and lay their eggs. The end result can be predicted in advance.

How to identify affected stems? Visually, by clearly visible swelling on the trunks.

The same goes for the length of the remaining stems. They should be shortened to about 1 m - 80 cm. This is enough for them to start growing in the spring, and it will be much easier to cover raspberry bushes for the winter. But you need to shorten, be sure to leave the green top. It is she who provides the process of photosynthesis, and not the lignified trunk of raspberries.

Another important point is that not a single leaf should remain on the trunks of the plant. Otherwise, they will begin to rot, and in this place the bud will not germinate next year. Tearing off each one individually is a waste of time. It is enough to put on a soft mitten, slightly squeeze your fingers and run your hand along the stem, always from the bottom up. Just be careful not to damage the kidneys.

Attention! All stems and leaves discarded during the pruning process must be burned. Their simple storage on the site, for example, as a supply of "fuel" for the furnace, will not lead to anything good.The pests that have settled in them (the same crimson gall midge) will again spread over the territory, safely survive the winter in the ground and in the spring will again be on the plants.

Two-year-old stems are considered "out of date". They are no longer able to bear fruit abundantly, or to produce large berries. Therefore, they should also be removed without any regret - there will still be no sense from them. It is not difficult to distinguish them from the total mass - according to the darker shade of the trunk.

Pruning time

Option 1. After the end of the fruiting period. Argumentation - the roots will get more nutrients, which will help them cope well with the winter and subsequently stimulate a more intensive development of raspberries.
Option 2. Before the onset of the first cold weather. Rationale - the movement of juices is practically stopped, therefore, when pruning raspberries, no harm will be done.

Recommendations

• Experienced gardeners who have been cultivating this culture for more than one year are advised to start this stage of preparing raspberries for winter no later than the end of September, when the weather is still relatively warm. Yes, there is still juice in the stems, but its circulation is not as intense as in summer. It also gives the trunks some flexibility; this means that when tying and wrapping the bushes there is no risk of damaging the raspberries. But in late autumn, when the stems are already dry, it is quite easy to break them. This is the starting point, taking into account the local climatic conditions.

• Double pruning helps to increase yields. About the first, its features have already been said. The second is carried out in early spring, with the onset of stable warm days. The point is to shorten the raspberry stems that have survived the winter by about 25 cm. What does this give? Formation of new, lateral shoots that are also capable of bearing fruit. But this is justified if the distance between the bushes is about 65 cm. With a denser planting of raspberries, secondary pruning will only complicate the process of caring for the crop and picking berries.

• If repaired varieties are grown on the site, then for the winter it is recommended to completely cut off the entire raspberry bush.

• For the southern regions, one - spring - pruning is enough.

Soil preparation

• If raspberry mulching was carried out, then this entire artificial layer is removed. You cannot leave it for the winter. The reason is that vole mice and a number of other pests settle in mulch when cold weather sets in. They feel warm there, so they love this place.

• The soil is enriched with any organic fertilizer (compost pit to help) and slightly dug up.

Preparing bushes

There are several options, and in order to choose the best one, you need to understand why you need it. If you look into special literature, for example, a surveyor's reference book, you can find tables that indicate the ratio of temperature (ºС) and wind speed (m / s). Simply put, the more significant its gusts, the more the soil in the raspberry tree freezes. In addition, the stems of the bushes that are left for the winter break. Therefore, you need to focus not only on the climate in the region, but also on the location of plantings on the site.

Method 1. Shoots are bent and intertwined. If the winter in the region is accompanied by heavy snowfalls, a good solution. The precipitation will quickly cover the low-bent twigs with a layer and reliably protect them from both cold weather and wind. But this is practiced provided that the raspberry plant is not standing in an open place that is blown from all sides.

Method 2. Fencing the raspberry tree around the perimeter. By the way, experienced summer residents do just that. Firstly, an attractive fence is already, in itself, a good decoration of the landscape, an element of its design. Secondly, it limits the growth of bushes to the side. Thirdly, it serves as a basis with which the raspberry tree can be reliably protected from the crosswind. For example, overlay spruce branches for the winter, pull a thick polyethylene film or roofing material over the fence.

Method 3.It is practiced less often, since it is both more difficult and more expensive. But if raspberry bushes are planted on a hill, well blown from all sides, then there is no other way out. In fact, a temporary "greenhouse" is mounted for the winter - a frame on which the film is stretched. As options - sheathing with plywood sheets or something similar. Young bushes can simply be covered with large containers - wooden or plywood boxes.

What to do in spring

Loosen the stems and cut out those that have not survived the winter. Everything! Trying to straighten them artificially is a big mistake. The twigs themselves will gradually take the desired position, so they should not be "rushed". Well, then - preparation for the summer period. But this is a separate topic.

Enjoy your raspberry harvest next year!

Raspberry Tarusa - disadvantages

Possessing a number of valuable advantages, the Tarusa standard raspberry has its own disadvantages:

1. Shoots must be covered during severe winters. Since they are thick and strong in this variety, the procedure is carried out in several stages so as not to break the branches. In severe frosts without shelter, the shoots freeze or freeze over.
2. Raspberry Tarusa berries are often doubled or with defects in shape.
3. The fruits are dry with sourness, which is not pleasant to all lovers of sweet fruits.
4. In the first year after planting, a large amount of growth is formed on the bush, which is capable of thickening the planting. In the following years of life, there is no such problem.

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Removing leaves

Experienced professionals, who know how preparations for bad weather should be carried out, recommend without fail to remove all leaves of branches that remain for the winter. The importance of this work lies in the preservation of the kidneys. The onset of cool and damp weather can cause decay of the remaining foliage, which is carried over to the buds, so they are burned or damaged. Removal of foliage is done with gloves. Having protected the palms, you need to squeeze your hand loosely and hold it along the entire trunk from the bottom up. It is this direction that will ensure the safety of the plant. If carried out from top to bottom, you can damage the buds located in the sinuses and significantly reduce the yield.

Diseases of raspberry Tarusa

According to the varietal characteristics, the Tarusa raspberry tree is considered to be less susceptible to diseases and pests. The bush, even when defeated, can give a good harvest. However, in order to maintain abundant fruiting, it is worth knowing the possible diseases of the plant:

1. Curliness
   ... The leaves grow small, tough and wrinkled, with a brownish tint underneath. Fruits grow small, taste advantages are lost. It is treated by selection of healthy seedlings, destruction of affected bushes and aphids.
2. Anthracnose
   ... It is characterized by small gray spots on the leaves with a burgundy border. Infected shoots must be removed. Prevention is three times spraying with Bordeaux liquid during the entire growing season.
3. Rust
   ... Brown spots appear on the leaf plates. Leaves fall off over time. All affected bushes are cut out, and the neighboring ones are treated with complex preparations, such as "Fitosporin-M", "Topaz", "Ordan".

General information about growing crops

Due to the superficial location of the roots, raspberry plantings need abundant watering and mulching. The semi-shrub culture prefers loose soil with a high organic content and a neutral pH reaction. As a representative of garden berries with good winter hardiness, raspberries are able to withstand frosts down to -35 ° C. Nevertheless, the generous summer harvests are due to the warm wintering. To protect the rhizomes in the fall, the soil is mulched with dry organic matter, the remontant raspberry bushes respond well to warming with humus for the winter.

The nuances of caring for different varieties

The varietal variety allows you to choose raspberries to taste, according to simple rules of care. It is the correct care of the plants that allows you to collect bulk yields of berries.

The best way to breed raspberries is to plant several varieties. Then it will be possible not to worry about the unfortunate summer season.

Yellow raspberry

This variety belongs to the remontant species. The variety is characterized by long-term fruiting, disease resistance. The plant develops well on sandy loam lands. Features of the variety: root growth does not grow, low frost resistance, does not need special care, has a strong root system.

Raspberry yield is determined by the power of the bush in the first years of life. Therefore, a sufficient supply of nitrogen is very important for the plant. Fertilization is divided into two periods: spring and autumn. The best nitrogen fertilizer is urea (50 g is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water, a liter of solution is poured under each bush).

In autumn, plants are watered almost before frost. Since the moistened soil increases the winter hardiness of raspberries.

Black raspberry

A perennial shrub can be attributed to an exotic variety - not in every area you will find this original species. Powerful stems with sharp thorns grow 2-3 meters long. For plant nutrition, both organic and inorganic fertilizers are used.

The easiest way is to use complex formulations: bird droppings are diluted in water at the rate of 1:17, 50 g of superphosphate is added to a bucket of solution. It is advisable to apply fertilizer simultaneously with watering or before it.

Depending on the climate, the bushes are left to winter open or covered.

• In the southern regions, you can leave the stems on the trellis, it is only recommended to fix the bush well.
• In regions with severe winters, the bushes are bent to the ground, but not laid on the ground. Cover the plants with special material.

Tree raspberry

These varieties are classified as standard and are considered the most fertile. For breeding, remontant varieties are chosen (berries ripen throughout the season, branches are cut in autumn after harvest) and perennial (does not need pruning).

In the autumn period, the soil in the raspberry grove is enriched with peat and compost. Phosphorus and potassium supplements help the plant develop a strong root system. After applying top dressing, it is recommended to mulch the soil (straw, onion husks, peat).

Raspberries prefer moderate watering, so after harvesting, it is enough to pour about half a bucket of water under each bush once a week.

After the leaves fall off, the bushes are prepared for wintering: the stems are tilted to the ground and fixed. To secure the bush, the branches are tied to trellises or some kind of load is used. When growing tree-like raspberries in regions with a mild climate, you do not need to cover it on purpose - it is enough to firmly fix the plant on the trellis.

Repaired raspberry - what is it and what is its peculiarity

The varieties that bear fruit on the shoots of the first and second years are considered to be repaired. Regarding raspberries, the term "remontant", which comes from the French language, means fruitful repeatedly. This raspberry has been known for about 200 years in Europe. At the beginning of the 19th century, 20 such varieties were cultivated, in the next century their number exceeded 60.

Variety "Autumn Beauty" has a rich taste

What to do with raspberries in the fall: a list of care works

So, the season ends, the berry harvest is harvested, what to do with raspberries in the fall? For quality care, you need to perform the following activities:

• pruning of sprouted shoots and thinning of young shoots;
• top dressing;
• preventive treatment against diseases and pests;
• watering;
• preparation for winter: mulching and shelter.

Let's consider each point in more detail.

Autumn raspberry pruning

Pruning raspberries in the fall is essential for the plant to grow normally and produce abundant fruit in the coming season. Without such an element of care, the berry culture begins to actively thicken, which reduces yield, increases the risk of developing diseases and pest infestations, and prevents the gardener from taking good care of the plant and harvesting. In addition, if you completely abandon this procedure, the berry bush will start to run wild and lose its varietal characteristics.

Advice! Pruning should only be done with a sharp, disinfected pruner. Using blunt and non-decontaminated instruments can damage or infect the bushes.

When should you prune raspberries in the fall? The optimal dates are at the end of August and September, and it is best to carry out the event right after the last harvest... However, this can be done later: the main thing that 3-4 weeks remained before the first frost.

To properly prune raspberries in the fall, the following elements must be removed:

• shoots with signs of pests, diseases;
• damaged branches (dry, broken);
• two-year-old shoots bearing fruit this season;
• thin, weak, low growth, unripe green shoots.
• the most powerful and strongest gains should also be shortened by a quarter.

When pruning in autumn, you need to leave 8-10 shoots per square meter of raspberry, no more!

Important! It is necessary to cut off the raspberry shoots at the soil level, do not leave the stumps, otherwise they will become a very cozy "haven" for pathogenic bacteria and fungal pathogens. You can even shake the soil around the base of the trunk a little to cut the shoot low, and then fill this place with fresh soil.

Video: how to properly trim raspberries in the fall for the winter.

By performing this autumn care procedure, also you need to remove all the leaves... The fastest and most effective way: protect your hands with tight gloves, squeeze your palm at the base of the barrel and slide your hand up without opening your palm. If the leaves are not removed, then with the onset of cold and rainy weather, they will begin to rot, covering the buds. Thus, they can infect the kidneys.

Important! After pruning and removing leaves, it is recommended to burn all plant residues, because they may contain pathogens and pest larvae.

Top dressing raspberries in the fall

Throughout the season, during active growth and fruiting, raspberries consumed a lot of nutrients from the ground, so the balance needs to be replenished so that the harvest does not disappoint you in the next season.

Top dressing of raspberries in the fall is produced using potash and phosphorus fertilizers.... They increase the winter hardiness of the shrub, increase immunity, and improve fruiting in the coming season. Also pay attention to the external condition of the berry bush! If the lower leaves acquire a purple hue, then there is not enough phosphorus. And if you find marginal leaf necrosis (that is, the edges of the leaves dry out, acquire a brown tint), which begins from the lower tier, then the plant is deficient in potassium.

In the fall, you can not feed raspberries with fertilizers containing nitrogen.... The fact is that nitrogen provokes plant growth, prevents the shoots from ripening and does not allow them to properly prepare for winter.

By the way! If you planted a seedling this year in the spring or fall and added enough fertilizer during planting into the planting hole, then you do not need to feed the shrub this season.

What fertilizers should be applied for raspberries in the fall? The most convenient option is potassium monophosphate (40 grams per square meter), because it contains phosphorus and potassium. And you can also combine different drugs, for example, superphosphate (40 g / m2) and potassium sulfate or potassium magnesium (20 g / m2).

Removing unripe raspberry shoots

Use pruning shears to remove unripe shoots. You also need to take a piece of cloth and moisten it with alcohol. Cut off any green shoots that will definitely not be able to withstand the cold. From the transition of bush to bush, disinfect the blade with alcohol.

Use pruning shears to remove unripe shoots.

If you do not remove these shoots, in winter they will freeze, in spring they will start to rot, mold will become covered, and the plant's immunity will decrease.

How to feed in the autumn?

Do you use folk signs in gardening?

Autumn feeding is also important. It is important not to forget that spring and fall fertilizers are different.In the fall, you need to fertilize raspberry bushes only with those compounds that do not contain potassium and fluoride, since these trace elements help the bushes to survive the winter frosts and increase their immunity.

In no case should the autumn fertilizers contain nitrogen, which is in the droppings or manure, you can simply burn the roots of the bush. Organic fertilizers work well with compost, humus, or wood ash.

Reproduction of raspberries

Standard raspberries are propagated by several methods.

Standard raspberries reproduce well and, as a rule, gardeners have no problems with this. The process can be performed in several ways:

• root cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

Root offspring are used in the autumn, as well as if the bush forms a small number of children... The breeding process is as follows:

1. An adult bush must be poured in, cuttings more than 10 cm long must be separated from the mother bush along with the buds (there must be at least 2 of them).
2. Further, their germination is carried out. To do this, you can dig in the roots in the same bed (depth - 5 cm), pour 1 liter per well and cover with polyethylene. After the emergence of sprouts, the shelter is removed.
3. Alternatively, you can tie cuttings 2-3 pieces in bunches, put in shallow wooden boxes (up to 15 cm high), sprinkle with wet sand and peat in a 1: 1 ratio. Then the containers are placed in a cool basement, where they are stored until spring at temperatures from 0 ° C to + 4 ° C.
4. At the end, the sprouted seedlings are dug up and transplanted in April to the place of permanent growth, similar to the conventional planting method.

Important! You cannot take more than 3-4 cuttings from one bush, as this leads to the weakening of the mother plant and its death.

Video: features of reproduction by root suckers

The method of dividing a bush is used when it gives little growth. Therefore, in the case of the Tarusa variety, it is the most suitable. The process can be carried out both in spring and autumn. It has the following features:

1. A bush at least 3 years old is undermined and carefully removed from the pit, shaking off the soil.
2. Then the bush is divided into 3-5 parts so that each of them has at least 3 healthy strong shoots, as well as a developed root system.
3. Finally, the plants are transplanted to the place of their permanent growth.