How to improve the soil at their summer cottage? 2 ways. How to make a fertile garden

EXCELLENT TOOL FOR MASTERS AND NEEDLEWORK AND EVERYTHING FOR THE GARDEN, HOME AND COTTAGE LITERALLY GIFT - BE SURE YOURSELF. THERE ARE REVIEWS.

For a long time, I have to work on sandy and clayey soil. The soil in our region is sand and clay mixed with sand. Loamy soils are fertile (especially when compared to sandy soils). Sandy soils are light; clay, black soil, humus must be added to them to retain moisture. To clay soils, on the contrary, you need to add sand, rotted organic matter.

COMBINING THE LISTED, IT IS POSSIBLE TO RETURN YOUR FERTILITY IN "FIVE STEPS".

... In the spring, we fill the "bare" beds with starting fertilizer and fill them with green manure, and water the mulched beds with a biodestructor.

... At the appropriate time, we cover the plant mass, while cultivating the soil.

... After a week, we spill it with a biodestructor, fill the furrows and holes with humus or compost and sow seeds.

... When the shoots sprout, we loosen the aisles, once again apply the microbiological preparation, we mulch the beds.

... After harvesting, we sow green manures or loosen them, apply the main fertilizer, close the beds with mulch and water them with biodestructors and humates.

Yu. SOSNOVA, agronomist and summer resident, Tula region

Often in reference books and other literature on growing plant surfaces, we recommend using a mixture of soil with different ingredients for planting. Some plant enthusiasts ask, “What is compost soil? What is humus soil other than leafy soil? Where can I get all the ingredients for the mix? " We hope that our input will help answer these questions.

Earth humus

It is formed after complete disinfection of manure.

Fresh manure is placed in warehouses, sawdust or ground, in a shady place for 1-3 years. Clients mix and moisturize during the summer months.

The earth is ripped apart

Exit the lawn. A keg of grass or clover grass is cut into a layer 20-30 cm wide.

and 10 cm thick. Stacked in a stack with a height of 1 m. Thus, the grass of one layer was covered with grass of the second layer. Intermediate layers of manure or slurry.

Stack and double the shovel periodically in the summer. The best land is acquired after two years of aging.

Leaf land

In the fall, they collect and lay falling leaves of lime, maple, birch, fruit trees.

During the summer, such a pile is moistened with water or slurry and stacks. After two years, the leaves are rotten and light, loose, nutritious soil.

peat bogs

It turned out that after batch decomposition of the upper edges. Peat is stacked in a heap, for example, in a grassy field, moisten every 25 cm with a suspension, sprinkle with lime (3-4 kg per 1 cubic meter).

Sow green manure

It is an effective method of soil remediation. Various plants are used that can quickly build up green mass: rapeseed, vetch, lupine, oil radish, mustard. They must be planted in an empty area, and mowed after 1.5–2 months. Thanks to these herbs:

acidity is normalized;
pests are eliminated;
the earth is saturated with micro and macro elements;
the soil becomes healthy, root formation is ensured.

About 3 kg of green manure nutrients are able to compensate for 1.5 kg of manure. But their availability is much higher, and the cost is less.

How to improve soil fertility in the country

peat) or phosphoric flour (10-15 kg per 1 cubic meter of peat). At the end of the first year and the second year, the shovel. Earth for the third year. Many of the soils for growing seedlings that are sold in stores are completely peaty.

Compost land

All organic residues from the garden, garden, human life (leaves, grass cuttings, rotting vegetables and fruits, cleaning vegetables and fruits, herbs after knitting, and much more) settle in the compost pits.

Dry and mix from time to time. After two years, the compost is ready. The compost is obtained after processing the organic remains of California worms (the soil is sold as fertilizer in stores).

Heather Land

Remove the 6-8 cm thick layer with roots and residues from the ground, toes, cranberries, blueberries and place them in balls.

Within two years - periodic shovel, watering sludge. The country is ready in two years. Heather's earth is an integral part of potting mixes in rhododendrons, glyoxins, orchids.

Garden land

It forms in tree gardens.

Each fall, the leaves fall, knead and form a light, nutritious soil. This process occurs especially quickly if it is sprayed into the boot in the spring (of course, I try not to damage the roots of the tree, because fruit trees have superficial roots). Garden soil is harvested in summer by picking a finger in a thick circle to a depth of 5-7 cm at a distance of less than 30-40 cm from the tree trunk. After that, it is necessary to spread compost or humus soil under the tree, or dig out gardening soil.

You get the soil in the garden, the tree is top quality. Garden soil is inferior in the amount of nutrients on the ground, but can be replaced if necessary.

Garden land

It turned out that after the manure there was pus in the soil. If manure is injected into the ground in a garden or orange field every fall and plowed in the ground, summer lands are formed.

A vegetable garden contains less plant nutrients than humus. Many endless indoor plants grow beautifully in the garden without any additives.

sand

The best sand is coarse grain or lake.

Quarry, fine, reddish, construction sand is completely inadequate. Sand is added to the potting mix, making it more robust and lightweight. Clean sand is used for rooting cuttings.

Because gardening requires open space, all plant enthusiasts do not collect the necessary potting ingredients. Many that are sold in shops, land for indoor plants, have already prepared soil mixtures.

The packaging of such lands is always written for plant use. Most plants grow well in normal indoor plant soil. But each plant requires a certain dose of fertilizer. For young plants, sand is mixed in such soil.

Posted by 5-11-2015 Ryzhikina Svetlana in: Agriculture • Tags: gender

Improving the soil during the development of the site: where to start

If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and, if possible, fine screening of expanded clay. If it is poor sandy loam, clay and humus are needed. In both cases, a third of the new volume of the bed should be organic matter that has rotted to varying degrees. And only a peat bog needs fresh nitrogenous organic matter: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unusable grain or spoiled feed. And also some clay and sand.

First, mark the stationary beds: you will improve the soil right here, without touching the aisles. Why do too much? The depth of improvement is no more than 35 cm: it is still too cold below.

Then stock up on the necessary additives: humus, sand or clay. And then - take your time.I can assure you that creating two 8-meter beds a year is a very good pace. You need health for this! Or good helpers.

I know two ways to dramatically improve soil fertility in the beds. You can combine them according to your capabilities.

To the content

Chernozem, fertile and vegetative soils: characteristics and differences

Very often, people who, by their nature, are not associated with agriculture, think that concepts such as black soil, fertile and vegetable soil mean the same thing.

But this is not at all the case. These soils are very different from each other in terms of price, area of their use, composition and parameters.

Vegetable soil in its composition, characteristics and density in most cases depends on the place where it was removed. This soil variety is considered the most natural among specialists. This soil is removed only in those areas that are considered completely environmentally friendly.

The upper soil layer, which is removed for delivery to customers, does not lose its original properties even after it is “cut off”.

But even the highest quality plant soil does not contain a large amount of nutrients necessary for efficient cultivation of agricultural products on it. It contains a very small percentage of humus, which is so necessary for full-fledged farming.

On average, the composition of this material does not exceed 4%. Because of this, the vegetation soil is mainly used in the park areas, when decorating parking lots. Very often it is used to create a landscape of private houses, especially country ones.

Also, this soil is often used in order to replace the upper soil layer, which has been damaged by construction waste.

This soil, in comparison with other soils, is the cheapest.

Fertile soil at its price takes the middle place between vegetable soil and chernozem.

But this applies not only to its cost, but also to its saturation with nutrients. This type of soil, which has a low density, has excellent moisture permeability, and this property is perfect for planting a wide variety of crops in it.

In its composition, fertile soil contains a large amount of peat. The percentage of peat in it is approximately 50%.

The remaining 50 percent is shared by components such as:

Chernozem - 30%;
Sand-20%.

Due to the fact that the fertile soil contains a large amount of nutrients, it does not need to be "fed" with mineral fertilizers.

This type of soil is very actively used by enterprises that are engaged in crop production.

It is very often used by farms and agro-technical companies. The composition of this soil is perfect for growing high yields. Plants planted on this soil receive excellent nutrition at all stages of their growth.

Chernozem has not been used for a century in agriculture.

Farmers consider it to be the best soil for growing a wide variety of plants. This is due to its unique composition. This soil contains more than 15% humus. And this helps to very effectively restore the soil with impoverished properties.

Another, by no means less important, property of chernozem is its high moisture permeability.

That is why this soil is very often combined with soil, which contains a large amount of sand.

Chernozem contains not only nutrients and minerals such as phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium and iron. But it is also saturated with a large number of various microorganisms, of which there are much more in it than in other soils.

Land composting and peat insertion

Most often, gardeners, when it is necessary to improve the indicators of soil fertility, compost the soil or introduce a large amount of peat into the ground. Composting is usually understood as the use of various organic compounds that have been pre-aged for 6 months or more, which allows you to transfer the contained mineral elements into easily digestible forms.

Photo of compost preparation

On the basis of peat, composts from organic-mineral mixtures can be made. In most cases, gardeners do not have any difficulties in finding peat bogs.

Good to know!

For the cultivation of the soil on a plot of 6 acres, one KamAZ or 30-40 wheelbarrows of such soil, containing a large amount of rotted organic matter, will be enough.

Also, peat not only enriches the soil with micronutrients necessary for plant development, but also improves its chemical composition.

How to increase soil fertility quickly and significantly. (Post restored).

This has a positive effect on the plants planted in it.

Farmers consider black soil to be the best soil for work in agriculture. It is quite expensive because it is produced naturally only in certain areas. In the Russian Federation, its main layers are located in Western Siberia, the North Caucasus, the Volga region and in some central regions of Russia. But not all of these places have a high humus content.

Chernozem does not have to be black.

There are both gray and brown types. By its structure, this highly efficient soil is granular, or lumpy-granular and many times heavier than peat, humus or compost. When this soil is dismounted with water, a mixture is obtained that is somewhat similar to clay. Dry chernozem begins to crack and disintegrate when touched into separate parts.

Chernozem is very often confused with other types of soils.

Especially many people don't even know what it looks like. And this ignorance is often used by unscrupulous suppliers. They offer a variety of earthen mixtures under the guise of black soil.

First, we learn why our plants are sick and how they are attacked by various pests. It all started with our zeal and the plow (shovel). I do not know how we came here earlier, but every autumn it exposes the Earth much more thoroughly, removing all the "garbage" in the form of organic residues. And, on the doorstep, they burn this wealth to dust in the full sense of the word.

Then, in spite of their fatigue, they dig in the garden and in the garden, so that they dry their wet nurse and bite for the long winter.

There is no time to burn in the fall, it burns in the spring. And so from year to year.

And he lit his plots with all kinds of "chemistry" under the guise of fertilizers ...

This is the reason for the problems that occur throughout the season.

And everything depends on the health of the Earth. Only a healthy woman can give birth to a healthy child.

And, similarly, Only healthy plants can grow healthy plants that are not afraid of pests. How easy it is! Indeed?

On ecological (natural, conscious, natural, etc.) Many books have been written in agriculture.

Additional activity to improve the condition and properties of soils

To increase the heat capacity of the soil, it is recommended to carry out additional measures, this will contribute to the improvement of the condition of the soil. You can, for example, use the most heat-intensive materials: sand and crushed stone.

When preparing a plot for seedlings or perennials, sprinkle the soil with 10–12 cm of fine gravel, and another 5–6 cm of sand on the loam. Dig up thoroughly, mix with a garden pitchfork. Plant the seedlings under a shovel, in small holes by the size of the roots. No fertilizer needed. In addition to heat capacity and looseness, crushed stone gives seedlings a more fibrous root system. These are both extra nourishing roots and high transplantation reliability.Next, the sourdough is put, and then the mulch is layered annually, which will lead to an improvement in the soil of the garden at the planting site.

The roots of the grapes are insulated from the cold and from the bottom. Trenches are dug 70–80 cm, up to the clay layer. At the bottom, 20–25 cm of wood waste and sawdust is placed - this is a "mattress". Trenches are filled up with a fair amount of sand or gravel. And on top - mulch.

Puzzled by the question of how to improve the condition of the soil with the help of heat, they come up with different ways to catch it. Some gardeners cover the aisles with asphalt. Others cover the soil with roofing material and protect the plantings with a film "fence".

Someone successfully uses crushed stone, tires, dark vegetable mulch. And now they have adapted thick water sleeves made of black film. Large stones are used along the curbs: in the spring they heat up first and transfer heat well. Sometimes, in order to speed up and intensify the heating, it forms beds with a slope to the south. Such "slides" give plants an advance of 10-15 days.

You cannot do without warm air. Many plants and seedlings are grown under plastic. For this, a simple modular design has been developed - it allows you to cover large areas. Here, under the film, the same water sleeves are particularly effective in stabilizing the thermal regime.

How to improve soil fertility, basic methods

I will briefly tell you what needs to be done to make your master lose health again.

Cutting should replace tillage at a depth of no more than 10 cm from cultivators, straight blades, disc drums without seam rotation. Let him be carefully protected and comfortable for the winter country, so he fell asleep. Mineral fertilizers are substitutes for organic and pesticides - biological products. Exhaustive weed control is eliminated by mulching. Meet friends with effective microorganisms and earthworms. See all types of sideriars. Go for gentle watering, again using mulch and thin spray pipes. Use a mixed fit.

And flowers are flowers right in the garden! These are the basic and necessary conditions.

Effective microorganisms

Many will agree with me that they can quickly restore the health of the Earth with the help of effective microorganisms. If you stop digging your gardens, the land on your site will be restored in about four years.

Little emoji, as I called effective microorganisms, will thoroughly restore the soil in two years. Their role in health and normal life on Earth is great.

According to the famous Czech ecologist B. Grimku, 2 square meters of bacteria, actinomycetes and fungi live in a layer of soil 30 cm thick in one square meter of the European steppe.

Academician V.R. Williams explained the main role of microbes in the life of plants and soil.

Our great-grandparents were carefully kept in the winter in a basement with the most fertile soil. The notice is saved from frost. Who do you think? Probably all the same microorganisms ...

But since I have joined them, I do not want to call them microbes or even cultured: microorganisms. Because they not only replace soil fertility. With their bucket and love, this beautiful little creature can bring a lot of positive emotions into your life.

What are effective microorganisms?

It was discovered by Dr. Teruo Hig, professor of horticulture at Ryukyusa University in Okinawa, Japan.

In EM technology, different types of microorganisms are in equilibrium, in which some live off the metabolic products of others. The largest groups of effective microorganisms include yeast, lactic acid, and photosynthetic bacteria.

Thanks to their optimal composition, these microorganisms are beneficial for people and the environment.

These microorganisms have not been modified by genetic engineering.

The successful symbiosis of effective microorganisms produces strong regenerative forces whose performance in some very different environments is sometimes simply incredible.

These measures find practical application in EM technology.

Benefits of EM technology in plant cultivation

- does not harm the environment; - does not require high economic costs; - effectively restores soil fertility with organic processing, which leads to an increase in the amount of nutrients readily available to plants; - It inhibits the reproduction of harmful microorganisms, protects the germination of seeds and plants from diseases; - increases the yield of agricultural products; - accelerates the germination, flowering and fruits of plants by creating a loose soil structure that retains heat better; - This allows you to grow the same crop for several years in a row; - encourages the cultivation of organic agricultural products, while the fruits of the plant have a high nutrient content and are fully preserved in winter; - the soil wakes up earlier, and the restoration of fertility is restored; - microorganisms increase the soil temperature by 2-5 ° C, therefore the plants are more resistant to frost.

And this is not a complete list of all the possibilities of effective microorganisms.

How effective are microorganisms?

Microorganisms can be divided into three groups:

Degenerative, destructive microorganisms and degrading agents (predominant) Neutral, opportunistic microorganisms - "passengers" Regenerative, renewable microorganisms (predominant)

Most microorganisms behave casually and, due to their metabolic properties, adapt to the small groups of predominant microorganisms that are currently dominant (positive or negative).

Effective microorganisms (EM) contain dominant regenerative and regenerative microorganisms, which usually have a dominant biological balance.

Thus, effective microorganisms directly biological processes in the antioxidant constructive direction peregyagivaya sideways a large mass of "bacteria walk" (which themselves do not have any positive or negative effect), and thus prevents decay due to the quantitative predominance of minerals of microorganisms and metabolic products with antioxidant,

Harmful (pathogenic) microorganisms cannot spread even more effective microorganisms, enhanced neutral microorganisms that compete for the basics of life, especially with respect to food.

In addition, efficient microorganisms, due to their metabolism, contain a large amount of energy, promote the development of beneficial microorganisms in soil and plants.

Effective microorganisms prevent pathogens from spreading and rotting in different areas, and they are populated with good microorganisms.

With the help of effective microorganisms, a natural balance of beneficial microorganisms is created, which leads to a stop of decay, odor, diseases and other degenerative processes.

Effective microorganisms do not contain organic material of bioactive substances with antioxidant effects, which have a large supply of energy and thus help to increase positive, restorative, invigorating energy.

Characteristics and features of different types of soils. What kind of soil do I have? What soil is suitable for planting lawn grass?

How to find out what kind of soil?

Based on the composition of your soil, we will select the right lawn seeds for you. Our experts will advise you free of charge and offer you the best solutions for your future lawn. "Lawn yard on Leninsky" and 0 or

How to understand what kind of soil prevails on your site?

"Developing a good lawn depends not only on maintaining and choosing the right mixture, but also on how accurately you identified the soil type before purchasing seed for your future lawn." Usually, people do not bother much about the selection of grass seeds for the lawn by soil type.

However, the correct grass mixture can significantly facilitate the maintenance of the lawn, and such a lawn will require less money for fertilization and maintenance.

Observe the crop rotation

In order to have a correct crop rotation, 2 nuances must be taken into account:

Predecessors. It is necessary to plant only after those plants that have a beneficial effect and do not infect a new culture with diseases.
Return period. The soil takes time to restore the necessary substances that are spent on development, as well as to remove toxins.

Poisonous components in plants decompose at different times. Therefore, the place of culture should be returned to the past no earlier than through:

2-3 years - radish, radish and beans;
3-5 years - onions and peas;
4–5 years old - carrots, beets, parsley, tomatoes, peppers;
6-7 years old - cabbage.

It is useful to alternate according to the following scheme:

In the spring, if autumn fertilization is carried out, plants that are demanding on soil fertility are planted: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, onions.
After them next year - legumes: peas, beans, soybeans. These plants tend to enrich the soil with nitrogen.
In the 3rd year, plants that are undemanding to the ground are planted. These include radishes, radishes, parsley, and parsnips.

With regard to predecessors, it is necessary to follow the general recommendations for alternation:

What kind of soil is there?

There are a lot of subtypes of soils, but it is not necessary to know all of them, it is enough to determine the type of soil on the site, to understand what problems plants on such land may have and how to care for them.

1) Sandy and sandy loam soil.

As the name implies, such soil contains a lot of sand, it often requires additional maintenance, but can be suitable for lawns.

Pros:

warm up quickly; easy processing; there is no dense layer left after rain or frost, which means that you do not need to loosen the soil in order for the plants to break through to the light.

Minuses:

such soils are not fertile, they will have to be fed with fertilizers all the time.

Another way to improve such soil is to add black soil to the area to create a fertile top layer.

Water quickly passes through such soil, which means that you will have to water the lawn at least a couple of times a week.

2) Clay soils.

It is they who prevail in most of the summer cottages in Central Russia.

Pros:

This kind of soil, when applied with the right fertilizer, can be an excellent lawn area.

Minuses:

water passes poorly into such soil, it will be necessary to loosen the earth periodically.

Fertilizers will also become integral companions of your lawn care, in addition, sanding will need to be carried out periodically. This procedure allows you to "build up" the fertile layer and make the soil loamy.

3) Loamy soils.

Soft, with a good top layer; moderate presence of sand, peat, manure, black soil.

Pros:

Ideal for lawns. Provides good germination of almost all plants, does not require complex additional care.

Minuses:

require mulching and additional application of fertile soil as it depletes.

4) Peat-bog soils.

Such land usually occurs in areas next to rivers or man-made reservoirs, not limited by the bottom and the wall.

Pros:

rarely need to be watered; there are special lawn grasses that grow on such soil.

Minuses:

too high waterlogging will force the owner to drain the site.

In such soil, perennial grasses die in severe frosts. Yes, and in the spring, a crust will form on the site, which will need to be pierced.

How to determine the type of soil?

Of course, you can order an analysis in an agrochemical laboratory, but its cost is unlikely to please a common man in the street.

Therefore, there is an easier way to understand for yourself what kind of land you got.

Make a simple test:

1) Pick up some dry earth, about 2 tablespoons. Crush it in your fingers until smooth.

2) Add water and try to roll all the earth into one ball. It should be about the size of a walnut; after you get the ball, try to roll it into a cord.

How to make a fertile garden with your own hands

So let's take the best of both ways. We take out the top 10-15 cm of the most fertile soil. We deepen the bottom with a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel. There are logs and thick branches in the trench, but sparsely, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly restored.

It is harmless to lightly powder this windbreak with some kind of nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it with a manure sprinkler or the contents of a dry closet - it will rot faster. It is useful to throw in some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. In the dry south, it is extremely harmless to roll hydrogel, in a circle per square meter.

We return down the subsoil from the trench, pushing it between the pieces of wood. We scatter the surplus subsoil in the aisles or take it away. On the bottom we put one or two strips of unripe compost or herbs, flavored with EO, "Shining" or another bioactivator. Then we fill the bed with the removed top layer, interspersed with additives (sand / clay) and humus.

It turns out a raised bed - a convex shallow shaft. The bulge adds a fair amount of space and light to the plants, and in the spring it receives the rays of the sun better. For the damp Non-Black Earth Region and the Far East - an ideal do-it-yourself garden bed. In the steppe zone, you need good mulch and smart watering.

In the photo - bed-ridges on the site of Irina Kalmykova on Taman. They warm up much earlier and better. Here, in a very arid zone, they are covered with a special mulch film, under which there are drip tapes.

The result of our sweating: the bed is ready to yield a decent harvest right away. The difference is visible in the first year. Look at the photo. Three cucumber bushes on the right - on improved soil, two on the left - on normal soil. L. Lobanov's garden, Ivanovo.

In the next photo: the soil on the right has also been improved. Refueling of organic matter and bioactivator at the same time added heat to the soil. The eggplant yield is 9 times that from the left control bush. A. Bushikhin's experience, Yaroslavl.

Quite a lot already! But this is just the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by living creatures, not structured, not pierced by roots, not seeded with coprolites of worms and other poop. Now we will annually improve it with natural forces: plants, worms, microbes and fungi. But this is no longer difficult. Our main occupation is feed the soil workers green manure and all sorts of organic matter. Another important work - do not disturb them... They will do the rest themselves. And I assure you - they will do it as wonderful as you never dreamed of.

How to improve soil fertility in a summer cottage

After that, fold the cord into a ring.

Test Result:

If the ball cannot be rolled up, and it crumbles in the fingers, it is sandy.
Sandy loam soil is determined if the ball rolled, but it is impossible to roll it into a cord.
The ball rolled normally, but the cord cannot be made uniform and when you try to bend it, everything breaks? On your site, loamy soil, with a medium loamy type, the cord will turn out.
When you try to bend the cord into a ring, does everything work out and at the same time cracks are formed only with pressure?
This is a heavy loamy soil.
You didn't need water to roll the ball, and you didn't water the area on purpose, and there was no rain for the previous couple of days? You are not very lucky, the land is peaty and swampy, you can, of course, grow a good lawn on it, but caring for it will be difficult and construction on such land will not be very successful.

After the ball test, look at what is already growing on your land.

Wild plants have a lot to say about the type of soil and whether it contains enough nutrients.

Once again, I repeat, because this is really important - knowing what kind of soil you have, you will only sow the right lawn seeds that are right for your type of soil.

This will avoid poor germination and further turf problems in your area.

“If you see any grasses on your plot (wild barley, wheat, millet bushes, commercially, oats and the like), you are in luck, this is a sign of a good supply of humus.

This means that many herbs on your site will take root even without constant fertilization. " In general, when the type of soil is determined, it is better to turn to a good landscaping consultant, so you will not only get the perfect mixture, but you can also find the option that is suitable for the cost.

Call our specialists at: +7(495)958-12-00

and
+7(919)99-88-770
or write your question to the mail:

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Perhaps you will

Mulch

How to improve clay or sandy soil, you need to find out in detail. It is not necessary to prefer one option if you can approach the solution of the problem in a comprehensive manner. For example, mulch is considered a good way to increase soil fertility. To do this, in the autumn, the treated and fertilized soil must be covered with a layer of natural mulch.

The best options are sawdust, straw, bark, grass, or some other covering material. Moreover, you can resort to such a procedure not only at the end of the growing season, but also in its midst. There are many benefits of mulching:

prevents evaporation of moisture from the soil;
protects the rhizome of plants from overheating or freezing;
allows you to achieve the optimal level of acidity in the substrate;
enriches the land;
inhibit the growth of weeds;
protects vegetables and herbs from overgrowing with weeds.

You can also increase the fertility of clay or sandy soil with the help of mulching.

Fertile soil - the promise of a rich harvest

May 26, 2013

The fertility of the soil is a guarantee for the rich production of ecologically pure fruits of all plants. Fertile soil does not appear on its own, but as a result of the natural decomposition of plant residues, microorganisms and soil residues.

With humus humus (humus, black soil) in the upper layer of the earth. Humus contains in an accessible form many nutrients necessary for the proper development of plants.

Soil fertility can be assessed by the plants occupying the site.

The vegetation of fertile soils is dense and succulent, the soil has poor humus, the vegetation is weak, sparse. In a fertile humus country, there are nettles, mint, stews, pigs, regrata, honey, glow, an asterisk. On a poor land - chamomile, shepherd's bag, clover, linen, ticks.

The most dense soil is clay, nutrients that hold water well, but the soil does not allow water and air to pass through well, is heavily cultivated in dry clay, forming very dense lumps.

Sandy soil is easy to cultivate, but it is low in nutrients, so fertilization should be done in higher doses.

Well absorbed water, sand cannot withstand. In this case, water dissolves useful microcomponents and transfers them to a depth inaccessible to the root system.

Chernozem soils are known for their fertility, as they are rich in humus, nitrogen and potassium. Small grains.The grain structure of this soil is best suited for plant growth - air and water pass well.

And yet, nature does not have an ideal soil for growing agricultural products in all their diversity.

Carrots prefer sandy soils, potatoes prefer clay or black soil. To find out which fertilizer needs to be put in place and what is the best tillage here, you need to know the composition of the soil, its density, moisture, acidity and structure.

The structure of the soil is determined by a simple method - moving a small lump of earth with a rope and then laying it in a ring.

If the container is not working, the floor is sandy. If the bundle merges into a ring, the earth is clayey. To improve the structure of sandy and clay soils, it is necessary to introduce organic fertilizers by sowing seeds. If the tournament rolls down, but collapses when folded into a ring, the floor structure is normal and does not require any improvement.

The best structure is granular with a grain size of 1 cm. Improve the structure of the soil and carry out its mulching with fine tillage (Drilling).

The acidity of the soil can be defined as: a piece of soil is placed in a glass of water, mixed, let it settle - the ground will be below, the water above the ground. A piece of litma, which determines the acidity of the medium, is immersed in water. If the paper is colored red, the soil is acidic, if the lemme turns blue, the earth is alkaline.

To determine the acidity of the soil, they help plant indicators. For acidic reasons, include oil, horse foods, horse acid. Alkaline soil grows with an associated, macro solicitor. Fertile soil, usually slightly acidic or neutral.

In such a pleasant environment, we talk about nettles, chamomile, wheat rot, recruit.

In order to ensure that fertile soils are maintained year after year or fertility improves, specific agricultural activities must be carried out on site. They include crop rotation, without which it is impossible to obtain consistently good yields.

The dead remains of the same plant, collected in a year, form toxic compounds that interfere with the metabolism in plants of future crops. In addition, agricultural products require a balanced diet with different elements, not the same.

According to all the rules, culture returns to its place only after 5 years. In small areas, this rule can be observed by cultivating vegetables using the Mittlayer method.

Soil restoration that you sometimes create in one season can improve soil fertility.

If "pure steam" is already in use, now they often use green manure as face, white mustard, lupine, buckwheat, rye. These plants contain proteins, nitrogen, trace elements and roots to improve soil structure and increase air flow.

Sydrates are involved in a crop rotation or are sown after harvest.

Fertile soil supports high yields of vegetables, grains and berries using organic and mineral fertilizers. Priority should be given to organic, which has been rich in soil for several years as it gradually degrades.

The introduction of mineral fertilizers affects the short-term effect, and the soil microflora is depressed.

Creating fertile soil on the site is not a matter of one day. But the noble and hard work of the farmer is certainly rewarded with the rich ripeness of the excellent vegetables, berries and fruits.

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Holzer ridges

The famous Austrian permaculturist and nature farmer Sepp Holzer applies his method of quickly creating humus reserves in extremely poor soils and in harsh climates. In place of the garden bed, a trench 40-50 cm deep and the same width is being dug. It gets clogged with dry trunks, branches, and rot. This is a primary supply of slow organic matter and a "sponge" for moisture during a drought.

Then the trench is dug in, and in Sepp's version the earth is thrown from the sides, fitting into a rampart 70–100 cm high. The rampart is about a huge difference in microclimate. The sunny upwind side is hot and dry. Solar leeward - hot and humid, subtropics. Shadow without wind - humid and not hot, shadow with wind - not hot, but blows out moisture.

From the shady side, plants will climb up to the ridge. On the sunny day - they will bush and fly, like on the beach. With all this in mind, Sepp sows a tree with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and squash, beans, corn and sunflowers - with anything that has large seeds and quickly builds up biomass.

By the way, the area of the rampart slopes is one and a half of the area of its base.

The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from the wind with branches, and the branches - with longitudinal poles. The huge advantage of the shaft - early and fast heating of the soil... A trench was formed between the ridges - branches were also placed in it and covered with straw. The roots will reach here too.

Sowing is done directly into the straw using a pointed peg. The seeds sprout after the rains. All plant residues remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes, and various rutabagas with turnips, and pumpkins with zucchini are planted here, and a wall of corn on the top.

Beautiful, deep, natural! But to be honest: this is for the hectare owners who are most keen on permaculture and personally by Sepp. For my garden of three acres - not an option. We are not used to climbing steep ramparts and unraveling freely mixed bushes. We do not know the behavior of different plants that much. I won't take it from the raid. Therefore, I tend to more conventional methods.

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Planting plants

Another effective way to improve the structure of the arable layer is to plant green manure: vetch, phacelia, lupine. And all the free places are planted with soil cover plants. They prevent the formation of crust on the surface after rain and watering. And also, by rotting, they replenish the top layer with organic matter.

Some plants, on the other hand, like clay soil. Therefore, plant on the site:

Deciduous plants - viburnum, jasmine, irgu, hazel, white blackthorn;
Conifers - Canadian pine, yew, marsh cypress;
Perennials - marsh iris, tartar, large chrysanthemums, daylily, peonies.

Do not heal the earth with dump trucks

Now for the quantity. Start adding a little bit of everything, after all, we are not agronomists, and even those people have miscalculations, sometimes the weather nullifies all efforts. If you sprinkle a little of everything, then there is an opportunity to correct, subtract, add something. If you plump with bags, or even dump trucks, as some do, then why be surprised that either the earth was compacted, or everything in it burns from humus and manure! It is also impossible to pour a lot of sand, it loosens the soil, but also impoverishes it.

I take 1.5 buckets of sand, 2 buckets of earth, 7 buckets of humus or 0.5 buckets of compost on a standard bed (1.20 × 3 m).

River sand

River sand will help to loosen the clay soil and improve its mechanical composition. The sand itself will not increase its fertility, it only helps to reduce the density of the clay.

But if you add sand along with humus, there will be a double benefit. It is recommended to apply this mixture annually, every fall.

The amount of sand applied depends on the density of the soil and the crops that will be grown.One bucket of sand is used per square meter of land for flowers and vegetables. When planting cabbage, apple trees, beets, the amount of sand is halved.

With regular use of this mixture, the thickness of the fertile layer will increase by 20 cm in 5 years.

Where can I get organic matter for the beds?

What can be taken as organic matter to improve the mechanical composition of the soil? Yes, what you have at hand. It can be tree bark left over from construction, or shavings, coniferous needles. If there is a coniferous forest nearby, then go and rake them as needed, and if there is a swamp nearby, then use sphagnum moss.

You can use the leaves if there is a deciduous forest nearby, birch leaves are especially good, as well as moss, which have bactericidal properties. In general, you can use any leaves, except for oak leaves (due to the high content of tannins in them, which inhibit plant growth).

Sawdust, which is better rotted, can be added to the soil. It is possible and not rotted, but in this case, as with the introduction of fresh shavings or sphagnum moss, it is necessary to pre-soak these shavings, sawdust with water and urea (10 tablespoons of carbamide per 10 liters of water) or urine diluted with water 1: 2.

The fact is that fresh shavings and sawdust contain a lot of carbon, which is rich food for soil microorganisms, and they will begin to develop rapidly. But in addition to carbon, these microorganisms also need nitrogen, which is not enough in fresh sawdust and shavings, therefore microorganisms will begin to absorb nitrogen from the environment, which will lead to nitrogen starvation of plants on this soil.

The best organic matter is, of course, leaf humus, rotted compost and rotted manure, as well as sawdust and shavings left after growing oyster mushrooms on them.

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Fertilizer application

In our case, the use of peat-humic fertilizers is useful. One of them is "FLORA-S". The drug has a whole range of useful properties. It stimulates germination and seed formation, increases plant immunity, improves soil structure.

On heavy clay soils, FLORA-S promotes the mutual repulsion of clay particles by removing excess salts and destroying the compact three-dimensional structure of the clay. As a result, the soil becomes looser, excess moisture evaporates more easily from it, the air flow improves, which makes breathing easier and roots moving.

Liming

There are two types of soil liming. The first - the main one, is used on initially acidic soils. The second is supporting, since lime tends to gradually wash out and after a while, re-liming is required. Usually, on heavy clay soils, it is carried out after 5-6 years.

In addition to lime, you can use a number of other substances: dolomite flour, chalk, wood ash. But slaked lime is most often used for liming. Everything else is most often used to enrich the soil with microelements.

Liming is carried out in spring or autumn. Lime is simply scattered over the surface of the earth, and then embedded to a depth of 15 cm. Its amount depends on the level of acidity, and you cannot add more than the recommended one. For example, heavy clay soil, depending on the level of acidity, requires an application of 5 to 7 kg per 10 sq. meters. For lighter loams, 5 - 6 kg is enough.

Earthworms

Spread straw, tops and leaves over the surface of the site and next to the plantings. This mulch will prevent moisture evaporation and drying out of clay soil. The thickness of the layer depends on the material, on average - 5 cm.

In the fall, the earth is dug to the depth of the bayonet of the shovel along with the remains of the mulch.

Another plus is that earthworms are produced in such material. These are your useful helpers in the struggle for soil fertility! They process organic matter, turning it into a valuable fertilizer, produce valuable vermicompost, loosen the soil and contribute to its enrichment with oxygen.

Every year the soil will become more fertile and richer in structure. With a little work and patience, you can improve the composition of any clay soil over time by putting these tips into practice.

How to fix?

The first thing to start with is leveling the area. Smoothing will remove pits in which water can stagnate for a long time.Direct the bed so that excess water from them can flow freely along the boundaries.
Before the arrival of the autumn rains, the soil should be dug up without breaking large clods. Frost and moisture will improve the condition of the hard earth lumps in winter. When digging in autumn, it is important to add a large amount of sand (0.5 - 1 bucket per 1 m2) to the soil, organic matter (see the next point - as well as in spring) and lime (dolomite flour, slaked lime, cement dust, chalk, ash, limestone).
With the arrival of spring, before the start of the active summer season, the soil is dug up again, along the way introducing organic fertilizers (rotted manure, weathered peat, compost) and stale sawdust into it. For 1 m2, 2 buckets of organic matter should be added, 1 bucket of sawdust previously soaked in a urea solution (150 g of urea per bucket of water is enough to process 3 buckets of sawdust). Additionally, it is recommended to add Piksu-Lux super compost. If the soil is very heavy, then at first during digging it is necessary to add bark, branches, straw, crushed brick to it.
Planting green fertilizers - phacelia, lupine, vetch, clover, etc. will help to improve the soil structure. They can be sown immediately after harvesting vegetables, and in late October - early November - dig up the soil. You can plant winter rye at the end of August and dig it up next year in the spring.

I hope these tips will help improve the structure of the clay soil in your area. And remember that only the top layer can be corrected, and work on improving the soil will have to be repeated periodically, otherwise the achieved result will begin to weaken.