Poison for mice and rats: chemical and folk remedies, how to apply at home

Many people are attracted to living in a private house, but often unwanted small rodents become neighbors. To deal with them, poisons are used for mice, rats and other intruders. If the house is actively occupied by pests, then they will bring a lot of trouble to the owners.

Rodent poison is extremely dangerous for all living things; it should be placed only in those places where the poison will be inaccessible to children and pets.

A variety of rodent poisons can be purchased in the store

How to understand that you have got mice?

There are a number of signs by which you can easily and accurately recognize that gray pests have appeared in your home:

in the area of the baseboards on the floor, you will notice small holes, although none of the household members did anything with the baseboards. Often in the specified area you can also see paper, or rather shredded paper;
an unpleasant musty smell will appear in one or several rooms at once;
you accidentally find mouse droppings on the floor;
extraneous sounds (grinding, rustling) will be heard. These sounds are heard both at night and during the day;
if a cat or a cat lives in your house, then the strange and unusual behavior of the pet can also betray the presence of mice somewhere nearby.

How to get rid of the smell of a dead rat

There are proven effective ways to get rid of the smell of a dead rodent:

It is necessary to remove the cause of the smell.
Ventilate the room.
The place where the corpse was lying should be covered with soda, which can then be easily collected with a vacuum cleaner.
Rinse and clean all textiles.
Place a piece of cotton wool in a ceramic or iron bowl and set it on fire. Leave to simmer for a few hours.
Treat all hard surfaces with vinegar, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide or bleach.
Place absorbents in the room: coffee, lemon, salt, soda, activated carbon or store products.
Wash the floor with bleach and use a fragrance and air freshener.

Plants and herbs versus mice

The autumn crocus is a poisonous plant, and therefore it is better to work with it with gloves. To prepare a special bait, take about 30 grams of colchicum seeds and a kilogram of any cereal (you can use flour instead of cereal). If it is more convenient for you, it is allowed to grind the seeds of the plant to a state of powder, then mix them with flour and spread the finished bait in those corners where you have seen rodents.
The leaves of wild rosemary contain a lot of essential oils, they have a very strong and intoxicating aroma, so the mouse will definitely smell it. Just spread the fresh rosemary leaves near the mouse burrows. If the mice are in these burrows, they will try to get out of there as soon as possible, but if the tailed beasts are not there, then they will not return to their cozy house.
Black elderberry bark and leaves act on mice in much the same way as rosemary leaves. However, the aroma of this plant is sometimes not tolerated by people, not to mention small animals. If you are able to tolerate the smell of elderberry, then collect several branches of the plant, then tie them into small bunches and spread them near the holes.
Another plant that mice have absolutely no sympathy for is the black root.You can spread both fresh branches and twigs slightly doused with boiled water in the mink minks, or tie the plant in bunches and hang it over the floors (only at a short distance from it). As soon as the mice hear a scent, they will immediately leave your home.
These animals do not tolerate the smell of mint - forest, pepper. Therefore, take her leaves and scatter them in the kitchen behind the cabinets, behind the cabinets in the rooms. It is also recommended to spread dry peppermint at corners, near baseboards, etc.
Does wormwood grow near the house? Excellent! When it starts to bloom, pick it up and hang it up for the winter. A plant with a bitter smell is laid out in places where mice can walk.
Plants with an unpleasant, frightening aroma include chamomile with tansy. If you spread bunches of any of the listed plants (dried) around the perimeter of the house, then rodents will not stick into your home and will not touch your food.

How to get mice out of the house with folk remedies

Milk with lamb lard and flour

In outbuildings, barns and basements, it is recommended to decompose just such a mixture of a glass of flour, 100 grams of lamb lard, two glasses of heated milk and an incomplete tablespoon of ordinary table salt.

The mixture is stirred and heated in a steam bath for about 20 minutes, after which you can add onions to it (chop it finely).

Mix with lime and sugar

Grind quicklime in a mortar and add a little sugar to it. Pour this mixture into saucers and place them near the holes.

Do not forget to put some container of water next to the saucer so that the mouse first eats the bait, and then drinks water and dies.

Wooden cork bait

The following recipe may sound a little odd, but it is very effective.

You will need a wooden cork (for example, from a bottle of champagne), which needs to be crushed and fried in fat.

The finished bait is scattered near the mouse houses, that is, holes, and when the animal eats the appetizing bait, it dies.

Putty with mouse semolina

A mixture of dry semolina and putty will also help you get rid of rodents for good. Just combine the indicated ingredients and mix them well. Then do the actions already familiar to you: scatter this mixture near the holes.

If there is no semolina in the house, buckwheat will do.

Appetizing tortillas

Do not be too lazy to bake a special treat for pests, reminiscent of cakes. To prepare them, you need a dough, which includes 2 chicken eggs, two tablespoons of any flour and 20 grams of a sponge (it should be finely chopped to the size of peas).

Knead this unusual dough and fry it in a skillet in oil. When the cake is cooked, tear it into small pieces and scatter it in such places where rodents run.

Containers with water must be placed next to the same places.

Chilibuha seed bait

Another mixture has a deadly effect on toothy animals. Take chilibuha seeds and grind them into a powder, then add sugar, some raisins and grated stearin to them.

After you mix everything, all that remains is to scatter the bait near the holes.

Next to them, it is recommended to scatter the cooked beans, which are boiled until they crack.

Then drain the water, and dry the beans and fry them together with the chilibuha seeds, using oil, until they turn black.

Phosphoric dough

Phosphorus dough is considered effective in the fight against mice. It is prepared from boiling water and starch: take 150 grams of starch and two glasses of boiling water and brew a thick so-called jelly.

Also add only 5 grams of phosphorus there, and then cover the hot mixture with a lid. After a while, the lid is removed and the "jelly" is stirred.

Wait until the mixture has cooled, then add a few drops of valerian infusion to it.Transfer everything to another container (preferably in a pot) and cover with a canvas. Before that, it should be impregnated with a composition of turpentine and rosin in a ratio of 1: 3. Leave the pot in a cool place.

An hour later, small pieces of bread are coated with the finished mixture, adding a small amount of flour to it, after which the delicacy is laid out where mice were seen.

Barium carbonate balls

Melt the fat and add two tablespoons of barium carbonate and four tablespoons of flour to one spoon of this fat. Mix everything thoroughly, make small balls from the mixture and place them near the minks of the animals.

A dangerous mixture for mice

Mix 20 grams of rosin, 15 grams of borax and another 20 grams of powdered sugar. To prevent mice from smelling human hands, you need to mix all the ingredients using a spatula (wooden or plastic - it doesn't matter).

The disastrous mixture is scattered around the mouse dwellings.

Plaster of paris with flour

The last recipe for a mixture against mice in a private house: in a one-to-one ratio, mix stucco (or alabaster) and wheat flour. Sprinkle it, next to the finished mixture, place containers with drink for rodents.

By smell, such a bait does not cause any suspicion in mice, however, after eating it and then drinking water, a small animal will definitely get indigestion. And all because in just a few minutes the mixture solidifies in his stomach.

Methods for treating rodent-damaged trees

Bark engraftment

The method of engraftment of a healthy bark on a bare section of the trunk is a rather complicated process and does not always give positive results. For a patch, take a branch of the same tree and use a sharp knife to remove the bark from it, adjusting it to the size of the damaged area. Then the site for engraftment is cleaned with a knife from irregularities. The new bark is applied in accordance with the direction of growth of the bark on the trunk. The place of engraftment must be tightly wrapped with PVC electrical tape, while capturing the healthy bark of the trunk along the upper and lower parts by at least 5 cm. After such an operation, the tree is provided with regular watering and feeding. The composition of fertilizers depends on the soil and apple variety. This method is most effective before the start of sap flow.

Vaccinations

A simple method of rescuing a damaged seedling is with a bridge grafting. In early spring, before the start of sap flow, clean the damaged edges to healthy tissue. Cut off last year's shoots from the tree, prepare cuttings from them 7 cm longer than the damaged area of the bark, and then sharpen 2 cm obliquely on each side. Drive the branches under the bark, below and above the damaged area, with the cut side towards the trunk. The number of grafting cuttings depends on the thickness of the tree. If the diameter of the stem is up to 5 cm, 2 cuttings are enough. If the diameter is about 10 cm, you will need 4–5 pieces. Then wrap the bridge with plastic wrap, tie it with twine and cover it on top with garden varnish - a paste designed to heal wounds on trees after pruning and when the bark breaks. The cuttings will take root and become a kind of tree donors, that is, they will feed from the roots to the crown. After a few years, the shoots that you grafted will become thicker and grow together with each other.

Bridge grafting can save a rodent-damaged seedling

You can save the tree differently. Plant a wild game next to the damaged apple tree. Sharpen its tip sharply and put it under the bark of the seedling above the damaged area.

Reverse stem cut method

This method is the most radical, since it involves cutting off the damaged trunk above the lowest kidney (1–2 cm above the kidney). It is important to cut the tree before the buds begin to bloom, and also not to damage the bud that remains.So that in the spring the sawn stump does not begin to germinate in the place of the diseased cut, it is covered with garden pitch.

Var helps to heal damaged areas, protecting against germs and negative environmental influences.

Garden pitch will help heal damaged areas of the tree and protect against germs

If the roots of the cut tree are strong enough and developed, then new shoots will go in the spring. However, for a young tree with an undeveloped root system, this method will not bring a positive effect. It is recommended to use a reverse cut trunk for trees older than 5 years.

Other ways to recover

A decoction of lime bark heals well damaged by rodents. In early spring, grind 200 g of bark into 10-15 cm pieces, pour 1 liter of cold water and boil for 40 minutes. Cool, strain and carefully coat the tree wounds with the resulting mass. Wrap the damaged stem on top with thick paper and tie it with twine. Leave the bandage on for several months until the wounds heal.

As a healing and healing "balm", you can use a clay chatterbox. To prepare it, you need to pour 0.5 buckets of clay into a ten-liter bucket and pour water 1–2 cm above it. Within a few hours, the clay swells and the lumps dissolve. The mass must be stirred several times. If the water is absorbed and disappears, a little more should be added. After 1-2 hours, the clay turns into a thick mass. Thoroughly coat the damaged trees and wrap them with cotton cloth. When the new bark begins to grow in the damaged areas, the tissue will creep on it and will not make constrictions in those places where it is. That is why it is very important to use cotton shreds for this procedure. If you take a silk material, for example, then it will not burst when the bark grows. The tissue must not be removed until August, when all wounds have healed.

Video: how to save a tree after being damaged by hares and rodents

Preserving trees damaged by rodents is problematic. No method of restoration will give a complete guarantee that the cured tree will be able to bear fruit in the future. Therefore, it is extremely important to take care of apple trees in time, preparing them for winter and protecting them from rodents and hares. There are many methods of protection today, so every gardener can choose several suitable ones for himself. The more effort you put in in November - December, the more likely it is that uninvited guests will not spoil the apple trees planted with love.

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Ash and sulfur

Sulfur is a universal remedy because it helps to get rid of mice, cockroaches, and even fungus. How to use this miracle remedy? Go to any hardware store and buy a sulfur stick there. Upon arrival home, it is necessary to fumigate the entire room with it.
Some people know that rodents do not appear in places where fires raged not so long ago. Why is that? In such places, a lot of ash remains, and it, falling on the paws of mice, then falls into their throats, thereby causing severe irritation. In general, if you pour fine wood ash into the cellar or underground floor, then after a while the rodents will leave you. For 5 square meters of space, you will need a bucket of ash.

Rodents are a threat to apple trees

November - December is a difficult period for gardeners, as it involves thorough preparation of the garden for wintering, the main point of which is the protection of trees and shrubs not only from temperature extremes, but also from constant raids of hungry rodents.

The most dangerous pests for apple trees, especially annual young shoots, in winter are mice, hares, water voles and wild rabbits.Nibbling the tree bark in a circle slightly above the level of the snow cover, they leave the trunk practically bare, which further leads to the death of the tree, since the bark is a conductor of moisture and nutrients. Rodents are especially active and hungry in February and March. First of all, they damage apple and irga, much less often touch apricots, plums, cherries, because stone fruit trees have bitter bark. Rodents are also not particularly fond of pears.

Photo gallery: from whom to protect apple trees in winter

A water vole can severely damage the root collar of an apple tree

A wild rabbit, like a hare, ruins the bark of an apple tree

The hare is the most frequent guest in the apple orchard in winter

The mouse usually gnaws at the tree, making its way under the snow.

Naphthalene, turpentine and kerosene

Some chemicals and liquids with pungent and unpleasant odors will help scare off, but not destroy the mice.

The problem is that it will be difficult for a person to endure the stench, and that is why it is recommended to use the following products only in non-residential premises.

Spray the corners of the basement or cellar with kerosene. Or take a not very large piece of old rubber, place it in a regular bucket and burn it using a blowtorch. It is best to do this at a time when you start putting food in your cellar.
Prepare a mixture of sawdust and mothballs (in equal parts) and sprinkle it near mouse paths, loopholes, and burrows.
Take a rag that you do not mind soaking in turpentine and put in a burrow with gray pests. After a few days, the rag must be taken out, then moistened again in turpentine and put back.

Now you know how to deal with mice with folk remedies, which means you can meet these rodents fully armed.

Protecting the creeping apple tree

The creeping or stanza apple tree differs from the standard one by its short stature and spreading branches with an almost complete absence of a trunk. During wintering, tree branches are pressed as low as possible to the ground and, depending on the thickness of the branches, are securely fixed with poles or metal pipes. Plastic bottles with slotted holes are dug under the tree trunk. Poisonous bait fits into them. Shale trees overwinter under a snow cover and, if necessary, are covered with special nets to protect them from rodents. It is also advisable to use rodent-repelling herbs (mint, elderberry or wild rosemary herb), which are tied to branches.