What a pear can be grafted on, as grafted onto a mountain ash, an apple tree

Apple grafting is a vegetative propagation method used by gardeners. It is based on combining the shoots of several trees.

Horticultural professionals use the following terms:

• scion - a part of a tree (bud or shoot) grafted onto another plant to obtain new properties;
• the stock is a donor tree (the necessary qualities are taken from it).

It is assumed that this effect can be achieved thanks to the cambium, the educational tissue responsible for the secondary thickening of the stems. It is located under the bark. It is important that its layers at the scion and rootstock are in good condition, because their close contact is necessary.

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Why plant trees

The vaccination procedure can solve several main problems of the gardener:

1. Breeding of rare quality varieties. If the tree is already old, but still bears fruit well, then for cultivation, you can graft cuttings cut from it onto a new seedling, and thus save your favorite variety.
2. Saving space on a small personal plot. On one tree, you can grow fruits of two or even three varieties.
3. Correction of the shape of the crown. If the tree does not grow properly, then pruning and grafting in the necessary places will correct the shape of the crown.
4. The grafting procedure promotes rejuvenation, improves plant health, allows you to save trees damaged by rodents or severe frosts in winter.

Vaccination is considered by many to be a rather complicated procedure. However, this is a completely wrong judgment. When carrying out this agrotechnical technique, in order to achieve success, it is necessary to carefully study the basic rules and strictly follow them. Well, if you are not quite confident in your abilities, you can take a "master class" from experienced gardeners living in the neighborhood.

rmnt.ru

09.04.17

About rootstocks

The stock is the root and sometimes the stem of the grafted plant. A correctly selected stock increases the winter hardiness of the variety, adapts it to various soils, and increases resistance to diseases and pests. The strength of growth, the beginning of fruiting and the appearance of the tree often depend on the stock. The same variety on different rootstocks can have different characteristics.

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The wrong choice of stock is fraught with incompatibility - the graft does not grow together or in the future leads to weak growth or to the destruction of the tree. So that the work is not in vain, you need to use well-proven combinations or select closely related plants.The most reliable option is grafting cuttings onto seedlings grown from the seeds of the same tree. Although in practice this does not always work: the desired tree may not produce seeds or be not winter hardy enough.

For decorative breeds, the choice of rootstocks is small, but fruit trees boast a rich variety. The more significant the culture and the wider the geography of its distribution, the more rootstocks exist that can adapt it to different conditions.

Benefits of standard trees

As you can see, the standard tree is not just a decorative element of landscape gardening design. This is a very easy-to-grow and care-for culture that you can form with your own hands, without using expensive or hard-to-find means and methods.

It is worth making only a little effort and skill, and then your standard tree will certainly delight you with a spectacular appearance, unusual design and large tasty fruits.

Formation of standard maples

In my garden accidentally there were 2 standard maples <109578>, <109579>, apparently grafted on the Norway maple. I want to make ordinary maple non-varietal trees out of them, because maple is good in itself. Is it possible to cut off all these apical balls in the spring so that they begin to bush from below and transform into ordinary maple trees. Wouldn't such a radical pruning kill them? I want to cut at least 1.5-2 meters.

cnn, Maples can grow as bushes, that is, from the roots. I saw such an enormous maple bouquet at my neighbor. Personal experience with maple - withstands rather rough pruning. In general, it can withstand a lot. I dragged two such sticks around the site and more than one season. Withstood the burrow in the sand almost without moisture for six months. But the main question, of course, is different. Your maples will be handsome! The contrast of red with a white roof is great. Bordered is also very good.

Radio operator Kat, I was also advised in the kennel to give them a chance today. They say that we have many standard "Poles" who, having adapted, really turn into handsome men.

cnn, Well, thank God, otherwise I was already wondering if I could swing with you at my holly sticks, which I slowly cut with a ball at a height of 1.5 meters. )))

Radio operator Kat, I will wait another year (2 years have passed), if they don’t start to "look pretty", then we will think about the exchange with you. It's just that I have one stem “Krimson Senthury” (red-leaved), I wanted it, and the second, not my favorite “Drummondi” (green leaves with a light border.

cnn, maybe you should try to love Drummondi? Red-leaved + green-leaved + variegated = tapeworm-tapeworm against the background of the lawn.

Really, cnn, maybe you will love him? He turns into handsome <111091> very quickly. Although in fairness it must be said that he is a handsome man in the first half of the summer, then it gets worse. But he does not have self-seeding, which you cannot avoid if you plant his green counterparts.

toka, when you look at it from afar, do you not feel that it is just a sick tree (due to the color of the leaves)? I have doubts for this reason, plus, after all, the stem for a landscape garden is not very good?

cnn, no, he doesn't impress me as a patient, and all my guests really like him, but this is subjective. Objectively, when planted in the sun by the end of summer, its leaves dry up just along the border, and then it does not look very good, but by that time other objects appear in the garden for admiring. I have always liked these maples, so he was almost the first tree to be planted. I also have a landscape garden, and I chose the option with a low crown, but many, on the contrary, try to raise the crown, since low branches interfere. And then they are no different from yours.IMHO if you just need a maple, then it is better to find a specimen with a beautiful autumn color, and not guess what will come of it. And to equip such a plant in good hands is probably not a problem. I also have a number of plants that are very good in themselves, but. not mine.

About the timing of vaccination

The graft grows well together when the stock is in an active state - increased sap flow occurs, leaves bloom, new shoots grow. Calendar is April-May (grafting by cuttings) and July - early August (budding). In August, work is completed by 10-15, so that the buds have time to grow together well before the onset of cold weather. The terms of grafting for most plants are universal and only in some cases are slightly shifted or are more compressed.

Recommendations

Pears should be grafted in early spring, before the buds have blossomed. Before the active movement of the juice begins, one can hope for 100% of the results of this scion.

In the southern regions, the procedure is carried out in early spring, in the north at the end of April or even later.

To determine the optimal timing for the scion, you need to monitor the air temperature. When night fluctuations become insignificant, you can start the procedure.

If you decide to carry out work in the summer, the best month is July, but you can make it before August. At the end of August, the difference between night and daytime air temperatures is significant, which negatively affects the survival rate of plants. Another important point is the correct choice of the scion:

1. To grow a hybrid large fruit, take a pear in Memory of Yakovlev, Carmen, Bere-Gardi, Large-fruited Susova. To properly graft these varieties, you will need to separate a branch containing several buds.
2. When performing a scion of branches equal in diameter, you need to choose one that is equal in thickness to the scion. If you decide to use the stump splitting technique, use a couple of branches of a small diameter for the scion - much smaller than the trunk of the tree used for transplanting.

Read about planting pear seedlings in the spring at this link.

A few weeks after the procedure, inspect the area where the shield and the main shaft meet. If the bud is green, everything went well. It is recommended to graft a pair of new branches into the split to minimize the risks of scion material death.

This method can be used to work with any branch of the main tree, but manipulations performed on the north side are considered the most effective - the survival rate in this case will be maximum if you use a garden var.

This material will tell you about transplanting a pear to a new place in the spring.

At what height is it correct to graft

Rake the soil from the rootstock trunk so that the root collar is clearly visible. Gently remove the twigs at a height of 10 cm from the ground and wipe this part of the trunk with a damp cloth. On the root collar, make a 3 cm long T-cut with a sharp knife.

Grafting apple trees

Apple trees are grafted in order to propagate, to obtain multi-varietal trees or decorative forms, to replace an unpopular variety with a new one, to increase the winter hardiness of heat-loving varieties. Various types are used vaccinations: cuttings (copulation) and kidney (budding)

... Vaccinated at the usual time. Seedlings of ‘Antonovka ordinary’, ‘Borovinki’, ‘Cinnamon striped’, other winter-hardy varieties or clonal rootstocks, of which there are quite a few, are often used as a rootstock. The height of the future tree and its frost resistance will depend on the stock.

In the middle lane, the most widespread are the dwarf clonal stock 62-396 and the medium-sized 54-118. They have excellent winter hardiness, well compatible].! with most large-fruited varieties, they have strong wood.

Apple trees on bedbug rootstocks grow no more than 3 m tall and begin to bear fruit abundantly in the first years after planting. Apples on such trees are larger, and yields are more evened over the years. In addition, caring for a small tree is not so DIFFICULT. However, more attention is needed for such apple trees: a shallow root system requires watering in the dry season and mulching for the winter, the crown often thickens. Such trees live for 20 - 25 years. Apple trees on a dwarf rootstock can grow in areas with a high groundwater table.

On a seed stock, apple trees grow tall, begin to bear fruit in the 5th-7th year and slowly increase the yield, more often they are prone to periodic fruiting. They are long-lasting trees with deep root systems. But they do not tolerate wet areas well.

In hobby gardens, more readily available seed stocks are usually used. They are obtained from seeds of local resistant varieties. After 1-3 years, the seedlings are grafted. Clonal (vegetatively propagated) rootstocks are used less often, since they can be purchased only in specialized nurseries.

Raspberry bush in the form of a trunk

The standard raspberry tree, unlike its other relatives, does not need support. Under the weight of the sweet harvest, its branches can bend, but not break. Such a plant can reach two meters in height, but still it cannot be called a full-fledged tree. Standard raspberry is an artificially grown shrub in the shape of a tree.

How can this be done?

At the initial stage, all fruiting branches should be removed, and the upper part of the young shoot should be pinned.

If you do not want to mess around with the formation of a raspberry bush, then you can purchase an already grafted standard tree, but this must be done not in the market, but in nurseries, gardening stores or from your hands - when you see mother bushes from which a cutting will be cut for you.

How to care for standard raspberries?

Pear grafting

In the middle lane, a pear is grafted only on seedlings of forest pear (Pyrus pyraster) or local resistant varieties (Tonkovotka, 'Bessemyanka' and others), obtaining tall, durable trees that begin to bear fruit in the 5th-8th year. In areas with a harsh climate, cuttings can be grafted onto P. salicifolia or P. elaeagrifolia - they are very hardy and drought-resistant, but they do not tolerate damp winters well. Sometimes, to obtain low-growing trees, a pear is grafted onto a hawthorn or mountain ash, but not all varieties are compatible with such rootstocks, and the trees are very short-lived.

Do not plant trees in early spring (in cool weather, accretion is very slow), as well as in the second half of May, when it gets too hot and the humidity drops noticeably. To reduce evaporation, plastic bags are put on late vaccinations, but the risk of overheating is still very high.

The main reasons for failure

Vaccination is not always successful. It would seem that everything was done correctly, but success is still not achieved. The main reasons for failure can be hidden in the following:

• Not every year is successful for the survival rate of vaccinations. If too cold spring with strong frost very often there is a massive death of vaccinations;
• Also, some varieties take root well only with enough warm weather, which in most regions is an impossible condition;
• Winding cambria Is another reason for failure. This is very common if the vaccination is too slow. Ideally, the entire process should take no more than a few minutes;
• For scion and rootstock the slices were inaccurately aligned, as a result of which accretion did not occur.

Cherries and cherries grafting

Cherries and sweet cherries grow well on seedlings of winter-hardy varieties of ordinary cherry (Prunus cerasus). The height of the resulting plants is often determined by the vigor of the varieties used. For example, on seedlings in.The trees of the ordinary Rastunya variety will be large, the Vladimirskaya seedlings will provide medium height, and the undersized varieties will transfer their diminutiveness. However, for cherries, the latter were better not used as well as seedlings of self-fertile varieties. Their main disadvantage is the formation of overgrowth. It is good to plant cherries on seedlings c. Antipki (P. mahaleb): trees are strong, durable, winter-hardy, although for some varieties this stock is not SUITABLE.

When harvesting cherry cuttings, keep in mind that lateral buds may turn out to be floral, unable to form shoots. After fruiting, they will die off - this is a common property of varieties with drooping branches. Only the tops or cuttings taken from young, strongly growing trees are suitable for grafting.

Method one: pruning

This method provides for the gradual formation of a standard tree by cutting off lateral shoots and branches. While this process can be time-consuming, the end result will be amazing and beyond your expectations.

The first thing that needs to be done is to monitor the growth of side shoots, removing them in a timely manner. As soon as the planted tree reaches the required height (usually about one and a half to two meters), its top should be cut off. From this moment on, the crown will need to be pinned with the help of young shoots.

This procedure is laborious and painstaking, since it is recommended to wait one month between each pinching. In addition, new shoots will need to be added to the already split shoots.

However, you should not be afraid of difficulties. The result is worth it.

How can you grow a standard tree with your own hands using grafting? This will be discussed below.

Maple grafting

This is a difficult culture for grafting: abundant sap flow makes it difficult for the components to grow together. Therefore, the work is performed at a clearly defined time: in the summer, when the apical bud has formed on the rootstocks (late July - early August), and in the spring, when the leaves unfold on the rootstock; grafted with budding in the butt or with a shank in the butt

... When shortening the stem over the grafting, leave one knot so that the leaves pull the sap towards them. If the cut is made directly over the graft, it will dry out. Cut off the remaining part of the stem after a year, during which you need to ensure that strong shoots do not form from the upper buds.

Growing standard bushes

The formation of a stem from bush plants is very popular. This facilitates the maintenance of the horticultural crop and also contributes to the convenient harvesting.

There are two ways to form a standard shrub, like a tree, by grafting or pruning. However, it should be remembered that such extraordinary bushes need constant support, since even ordinary gusts of wind can break thin long branches. Therefore, it is recommended to tie each shoot to a wooden or metal peg.

Rowan and chokeberry grafting

All variety of fruit and ornamental forms of mountain ash will grow well on rowan seedlings (Sorbus aucuparia). Inoculate it at the usual time by cutting or budding. For a weeping form, seedlings with the required stem height are chosen.

Also, black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), grafted on the stem of the river, is distinguished by a special decorative effect. ordinary. Usually, a bole with a height of 1-2 m is left. The resulting tree not only attracts with its shape, but also brings rich harvests.

1. On undersized rootstocks, it is not worth grafting varieties that are strong by nature.
2. Seedlings of semi-crops are used for grafting ranetki.
3. Ranetka seedlings are unsuitable for grafting large-fruited varieties.
4. For decorative apple trees, the same rootstocks are suitable as for fruit trees. Only varieties of berry apple trees are grafted onto seedlings of berry apple trees.
5. For grafting into the crown, it is better to select trees with a late ripening of fruits.

How to plant maple

Agrotechnics of common quince

Among fruit and berry crops, oblong quince tolerates insignificant turfing of the soil in the peri-stem circle better than others.

However, it grows and bears fruit worse than if the near-stem space is contained in black steam.

The main processing of the soil is carried out in the fall with digging up the soil to a depth of 15 cm.

During the growing season, the soil is loosened up to 6-7 times to a depth of about 8 cm.

Do I need to water?

With a lack of moisture, quince fruits become smaller, therefore, during the growing season, soil moisture must be maintained at least 65% of the maximum field moisture capacity.

On the eve of the flowering of the common quince, the tree is watered for the first time, then in mid-June and another 2-3 times until mid-September, if the autumn starts dry.

Abundant soil moisture is necessary for the formation of juicy fruits and good growth.

Young non-fertile trees stop watering at the end of summer so that their shoots ripen well.

Top dressing

In the spring, humus is introduced into the periosteal space. As a fertilizer, green manure plants are grown in the near-stem circle.

For prophylaxis against damage by various diseases, in particular, fruit spotting, foliar feeding with microelements is carried out during fruit ovary.

How to properly cut the fruit quince

Pruning is an important element of quince care. Its crown must be shaped so that the branches grow parallel to the soil surface.

Plants should have a low stem - about 40-50 cm. They are formed in two tiers of skeletal branches.

Annual seedlings are shortened at a height of 70-80 cm from the ground level.

They are not drastically pruned, since this will give a strong uncontrolled growth of shoots, thicken the crown and subsequently delay the onset of fruiting.

In early spring, tops and weak branches sagging to the very ground are removed from an adult tree.

The crown is thinned out as necessary, both weak and strong pagons are removed, and all dry and damaged pagons are cut out during wintering.

For old trees, rejuvenating pruning is periodically performed, which is not much different from pruning apple trees.

What to do and why the quince fruit tree dries

One of the main disadvantages of quince is its susceptibility to damage by many diseases and insect pests characteristic of pome crops.

Perceptible harm to quince orchards is also caused by subcutaneous spotting of fruits, which spoils their presentation and reduces taste.

To prevent this disease, foliar feeding with microelements is used, and in recent years, many varieties resistant to this disease have been developed.

The most common disease is fruit rot or pome fruit moliniosis. As a preventive measure, planting quince is sprayed with fungicides in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

On affected trees, diseased branches are removed and burned.

Brown spot of leaves and fruits is the result of fungal spores. Control measures are the same as for fruit rot.

The biggest problem for quince trees is the apple pseudo-bark beetle.

You can fight it only by collecting it by hand.

You can save yourself from the apple moth only by building a mechanical obstacle to penetrate the fruits - gardeners use special paper covers.

The larvae of leaf miner moths develop immunity to many insecticides; biological methods are used in the fight against them, using the natural enemies of the moth - wasp.

How to plant a decorative maple tree

This photo was taken in Ufa several years ago.It shows a fragment of an alley where spherical maples (ACER PLATANOIDES "GLOBOSUM"), brought from a foreign nursery, are planted. Now the trees have grown, the crowns have become more luxuriant and have the shape of a flattened ball with a diameter of about 3 meters.

We really liked these plants, and there was a great desire to grow the same beautiful trees in our summer cottage. It should be noted that this type of maple has a height of 4 - 5 m, does not require formative pruning. tolerates our Ural winters well. The leaves are large, five-lobed, orange-red when blooming, green in summer, and turn yellow with a reddish tint in autumn. Prefers sunny or semi-shady growing areas. Resistant to heat, drought and wind.

How to plant maple

Spherical maple propagates by grafting on a stock of the same type. We used 3-year-old rootstocks of Norway maple, which can be found at any edge of the forest in Central Russia. Cuttings were cut from the mother plant on the day of grafting, which was carried out at the end of March. It should be borne in mind that maple early begins a period of active sap flow, which can interfere with good fusion of components.

Harvesting cuttings

The apple tree from which the cuttings for the scion are taken must be fruitful, with good and stable fruitfulness. The ripe, one-year-old branches are cut off from the southern part. They are taken from the middle of the crown.

Requirements for shoots for scion:

• length - thirty to forty centimeters;
• circumference - six to seven centimeters;
• internodes are not short;
• lack of blossoming buds;
• the age of the apple tree is not more than ten years.

The timing of harvesting cuttings is different. They can be cut at the beginning of winter, spring, just before grafting.