Schlumberger, or the Decembrist - all about care, reproduction and treatment

For most flower growers, any type of cacti is considered an integral pet, among which the forest Rhipsalidopsis, which everyone can grow at home, is not the last. This bright "Easter" cactus is similar to some other varieties of thorny plants, however, due to a separate number of characteristics, it is quite easy to distinguish it from its fellows. You can read about planting and caring for him in this article, but for now, look at the Ripsalidopsis cactus in the photo:

Schlumberger (Decembrist) - description

Schlumberger is an epiphytic plant that grows naturally on the trunks and roots of trees. Belongs to the Cactus family. It is also called epiphytic cactus, zygocactus or Christmas tree.

The homeland of this cactus is the coastal forests of southeastern Brazil (near the Atlantic Ocean). Widespread in the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro. Accordingly, he loves a humid climate and diffused light. Schlumbergera also grows in the highlands of Brazil at an altitude of up to 2800 m above sea level.

Under natural conditions, Schlumberger usually "clings" to a tree trunk and peacefully coexists with another plant

The Decembrist benefits not only with its beautiful appearance, but also cleans the air of harmful compounds. This wonderful flower is very common in the homes of florists. In some families, it is even passed on as a family heirloom from generation to generation.

This plant is named after the French succulent lover Frederic Schlumberger. Because of the "family" name, many are wondering "in what genus is this word." They often write "Schlumberger", but this is wrong. The exact name is "Schlumberger" - like "Saintpaulia", "Begonia". That is, this word is feminine. Of course, if you say "Schlumberger cactus", then you are using the masculine gender, because you speak of it as a cactus.

With proper care, a Schlumberger can live for a very long time, more than 30 years. Its content is simple, but certain rules must be followed.

In natural conditions, Schlumberger blooms from May, which corresponds to winter time in the climatic zone of Europe and Russia. Therefore, this flower is called the Christmas cactus, the Decembrist and the Christmas tree. It is grown in ordinary pots, as an ampel plant (the pots are hung) and even as a bonsai.

Homeland and history of discovery

Rhipsalidopsis is often confused with another succulent - Schlumberger. Both are native to the tropical hot forests of South America. Outwardly, they are very similar, which causes confusion among non-specialists. Both flowers grow in the form of a low, but spreading bush. White or pink flowers grow at the tips of the shoots.

In the wild, both plants are epiphytic. They grow on the branches of tropical trees. Thick branches and trunks are used as support.

Despite the external similarity, these succulents belong to different genera.

Rhipsalidopsis is popularly called the Easter egg. In modern biological systematics, he was ranked as a hatiora. Other names for this forest cactus are Gartner's hathyor or Gartner's ripsalidopsis.

Other names for the Schlumberger trunkat plant are truncated zygocactus... Among flower growers, he is best known as the Decembrist.

Zygocactus was first described in 1958 by biologist Charles Lemaire. He named the new species Schlumberger after the French collector Frederic Schlumberger.

Rhipsalidopsis was attributed to the hatiora family. This genus is named after the traveler Thomas Harriott. The genus name is an anagram from the surname Harriot.

Although both plants are native to South America, their habitat is somewhat different. Zygocactus, or Decembrist, grows only in the southeast of Brazil. Hatior Gartner also grows in the central part of the American continent.

Varieties of Schlumberger and its difference from Ripsalidopsis

Ripsalidopsis is often confused with the Decembrist. Without going into scientific details, the main difference between Ripsalidopsis and Schlumberger is that it blooms in spring. It is called the Easter cactus. Another difference is the shape of the leaves. Compare in the photo.

Left to right: Ripsalidopsis leaf, Schlumberger leaves

Sometimes other types of cacti with similar flowers are also called the Decembrist, although their flowering time differs. For example, epiphyllum, disocactus and others.

Schlumberger can bloom from November to February. Most often, flowering lasts from December to February. Depending on the conditions of keeping and the hybrid species, Schlumbergera can re-bloom in the spring.

Of the six species and their hybrids, they mainly contain two. It:

• Truncated (Trunkata). It has serrated protrusions along the edges of the leaves. As the name suggests, something is truncated somewhere. Namely, this is a floral corolla, which is, as it were, beveled. Many flower colors have been bred: pink, red, white, orange, crimson, yellow and others. And there are also multicolor ones.
• Buckley (Buckley)... This species is usually called "Decembrist". Its leaves are with rounded protrusions. Flowers of a non-hybrid type of lilac-pink color. The hybrid varieties have the same variety of colors as Trunkata.

Schlumberger Buckley and Truncated

Three more popular varieties are Gertner, Orssich and Russeliana. From the hybrid species Schlumberger breeders have already created several hundred varieties, which are combined in variety series. Species and varieties differ in the shape and size of the bush, in the shape and color of the flowers.

Types of Schlumberger in the photo

Buckley (Buckley)

Gertner

Orssic

Russell (Russeliana)

Truncated (trunkata)

The care of a Schlumberger does not depend on the variety. Choose the one you like best.

You can plant different varieties in one pot. But you cannot plant a Schlumberger along with similar genera that bloom at different times! (For example, with ripsalidopsis or epiphyllum). Their conditions of detention are similar, but the preparation time for flowering is different.

When choosing a variety, keep in mind that the color in the photo may differ from the natural one. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a variety after seeing a flower "live".

Photo gallery: a huge variety of Decembrist varieties

Anapolis Brazil Angel Dance

Ascot

Aspen

Bahia brazil big fire

Bridgeport

Bruxas brazil

Bulletin

Cambridge

Christmas Сheer Coral Cascade

Sunny bright

Pink illusion

Fairy Tale

Floral bouquet

Inca Sun

Day bloomers

Gold charm

Epic star

Just peachy

Liberty jasma jay

Madonna dance

Malissa

Outono brazil

Parana brazil

Campinas brazil peaches and cream

Red flame rusty

Samba brazil

Sao Paulo Brasil

Savannah

Sol brasi

Sp rober

Sterling

Thor Kiri Thor Vida

Thore alise

Vila velha brazil

White Eva Exotic Dancer

Types of "Easter cactus" with a photo

"Gartner"

It is a bushy, epiphytic plant, 15-20 cm in height, with flat hanging shoots. Branching shoots are leafy small segments with wavy edges and short spines (6 cm long, 0.5 wide). The stems can change color depending on the lighting.

In moderate light, they are light green in color, and in bright sunlight they become reddish. At the tops of the shoots are yellow bristles, collected in bunches. Segments are covered with light pubescence. This species is often grown in baskets and hanging pots. In nature, it grows in tropical Brazilian forests.

The photo shows the flower "Rhipsalidopsis Garner" with proper care at home:

"Pink"

Epiphytic shrub with long stems, segments with serrated-crenate edges, 4-5 cm long. Differs in charming, delicate flowering. The flowers are star-shaped, pink in color, with a bright yellow core.

At home, it looks very compact, grows no more than 25-30 cm in length. Often grown in hanging pots, planters.

The photo shows the flower "Rhipsalidopsis Pink" with proper care at home:

"Andromeda"

In appearance it is similar to the previous representatives of the genus. Endowed with long, green, drooping stems with small segments 4-6 cm in length. Differs in large burgundy-pink star-shaped flowers, up to 5-6 cm in diameter, orange cores. Long flowering.

The photo shows the flower "Rhipsalidopsis Andromeda" with proper care at home:

"Auriga"

This type of flower growers is often confused with the "Truncated Zygokaktus" (Decembrist). It is endowed with hanging long stems with shortened segments, red-orange large flowers. The flowering time, in contrast to the winter Decembrist, falls on the spring-summer period. The appearance of flowers also differs.

The photo shows the flower "Rhipsalidopsis Auriga" with proper care at home:

"Rhipsalidopsis Phoenix"

This species is distinguished by large, pale pink, star-shaped flowers with a rich orange stripe in the center of each petal. Orange core with light stamens. The petals are wide. Blooms very profusely, long-lasting. Shoots are small, green.

The photo shows the flower "Rhipsalidopsis Phoenix" with proper care at home:

Flower maintenance and care

Schlumbergers do not tolerate excessive moisture or drying out. But from my own experience I will say: it is better to dry than to pour. A dried-up flower recovers much better than a flooded one. Most often, the only salvation of a flooded flower is to cut off segments of its leaves and root again, because the roots quickly rot.

Schlumberger life cycle chart at home

Not every florist has the desire and time to comply with the maintenance regime according to the scheme. If your Decembrist grows on your window, then you can not arrange his rest time. The main thing is to know the basic conditions necessary for it:

• Temperature... The Decembrist does not like either cold or heat. The best temperature for him is room temperature, without sudden fluctuations, not lower than + 15 degrees and not higher than + 25 degrees. It can withstand a short-term temperature drop up to + 5 degrees.At temperatures below + 12 degrees, flower buds do not lay.
• Fresh air... The Decembrist needs fresh air. Air it out. With the beginning of spring, the flower can be taken out to the balcony. Doesn't like drafts.
• Humidity, spraying... Humidity is required high enough, because in nature this flower receives moisture not only through the roots, but also through the leaves and air roots.

Do not spray when kept cool during dormancy. At any other time, you can spray the leaves even during flowering. The main thing is that the water is soft and warm. You can use boiled.

Decembrist flowers are not afraid of water

• Watering, shower... Watering the Schlumberger loves moderate, when a clod of earth dries up by two cm. But during flowering, watering increases. When there are no flowers, it is useful to arrange a warm shower for the Schlumberger. At the same time, cover the ground with cellophane so that water does not get into the soil!

Do not pour too much water when watering. Use only warm and settled (about a day) water. If your water is hard and with impurities, then pour it filtered or, in extreme cases, boiled.

If you dry out the plant and its leaves shriveled, then water and spray it. It will quickly regain its healthy appearance. But of course, if you dried a large Decembrist so that all the roots are dry, then it is better to pinch off the branches and plant again.

• A change of scenery... Schlumberger does not tolerate drastic climate change. In no case change the orientation of the Decembrist during flowering, otherwise the flowers and buds may fall off. You can move it without turning it towards the light. But it is best to wait until the end of flowering.
• Clean leaves. Schlumberger in nature receives food and water mainly from air roots and leaves. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the leaves are clean from dust. You can wipe them with a damp cloth or sponge. After wiping or showering, you can walk over the leaves with the back of a banana peel or yolk diluted in water. This is also additional food.

The Decembrist came to me by accident. I found two pieces near the garbage chute. I picked it up, because I was “sick” with regard to flowers and I bring home any shoots that come along. I put it in the water. I myself decided to search the Internet for what I found.

Previously, I had no business with the Decembrists and did not pay attention to them. Having rummaged on the Internet, I was convinced that my foundling was nothing more than a Schlumberger or simply a Decembrist. But while I was looking, I saw a variety of species and somehow immediately decided that I wanted "with white flowers."

My Decembrist began. And, imagine, it bloomed with white flowers! Then there was also a yellow one. ))) Now I want other shades. It's a pity the windowsills don't allow. In care it is completely unpretentious. I water when the earth dries up. Sometimes I feed them.

For the summer I send it to the loggia and keep it there until the very cold. In the summer I feed more often for the company with hippeastrum. Then I bring it home and watch the buds grow. :)

Valentine

Reproduction

Dividing is one of the plant propagation methods, but not the only one. Almost at any time of the year, but better in spring - summer, you can propagate Decembrist by cuttings.

To do this, simply twist the segments at the point of attachment to the previous one, dry the cutting and immediately root it in the ground. The survival rate is very high... This does not harm the mother plant.

Rather, on the contrary: pinching promotes greater tillering, which makes the zygocactus even more decorative.

Natural zygocactus Truncated, Ruker, Violet Russell (Zygocactus truncatus, Z. ruckerianum hort, Z. violaceum, Z. russellianum) have become a source of inspiration for breeders who have created new varieties of this beautiful plant.

Modern room Decembrists flowers are largerthan naturalists, and most importantly, much more varied color.

For example:

• flowers varieties Golden Cream yellow;
• grade Aspen has white and lilac flowers;
• grade Pasadena - burgundy;
• Madame Butterfly - white and pink with a border.

If cuttings of different varieties are rooted in one container, then during flowering you can admire the mixture of Decembrist flowers.

This unpretentious and very beautiful plant may well become a decoration for any home. We wish you success in growing and experimenting!

Planting and feeding zygocactus

How to determine that the Decembrist needs a transplant? When the roots began to crawl out of the drainage hole, this is a sign that it needs to be transplanted into a slightly larger pot. If the flower has not been transplanted for a long time, but the roots have not grown enough for transplanting, then you can simply renew the top layer of the earth.

The best soil composition for Schlumberger:

1. Fine perlite, peat and leaf soil in a ratio of 1: 1: 3
2. Leafy soil, peat and sand in a 1: 1: 1 ratio.
3. Ready-made soil for cacti.

When planting, add charcoal (birch) to the prepared soil. You can add sphagnum.

When preparing a pot for planting, keep in mind that it does not have to be spacious. Firstly, so that the Schlumbergera could bloom in the same season, and not waste energy on the formation of a large root system. And secondly, so that the roots in a pot that is too spacious do not rot. Better to choose a roller coaster lower and wider.

So, we have chosen a suitable pot. We fill the bottom with drainage (best of all expanded clay) by one third. Let's try our flower and add the required amount of prepared earth mixed with ash.

We put a bush, fill it with earth to the point of growth and squeeze it a little. Leave some soil so that you have something to add to the pot during the shrinking process. There is no need to water the first two or three days! So the Decembrist will better endure the stress of the transplant.

On average, you need to feed it twice a month. See life cycle table.

You can apply complex fertilizers for decorative flowering plants, fertilizers for cacti and fertilizers for flowering plants during the flowering period. If you are using a fertilizer other than cactus, then halve the dosage.

During the growing season, when the Decembrist is growing leaves, you can spray it with nitrogen. For this, you can use ammonia (ammonia). In this form, the flower is easier to assimilate. Irrigation consumption: 1 teaspoon per liter of water.

Video about growing a Decembrist

Video - how to achieve constant flowering of a Christmas tree

Comparison table

Diseases and pests, care errors

With proper care, the Decembrist is very rarely affected by diseases and pests. But if you notice a discomfort in your flower, find out the reason. Consider the main symptoms of Schlumberger diseases and how to eliminate them.

Pests and diseases in the photo

Whiteflies

Leaf viral infection

Rot on the segments

Symptoms of a fungal or bacterial infection

Mealybug

Root rot

Symptoms of fusarium and late blight

Red tick in enlarged form Effects of the tick

Shield

Recommendations:

1. If your flower is very sick or has a whole complex of diseases that you cannot even identify, then it is better to pinch off healthy segments and plant them again. Throw the sick flower along with the ground. Treat the pot with boiling water.
2. To reinforce a sick Decembrist, treat him with an immunostimulating drug. I use Zircon and Epin.
3. Ordinary insecticides do not work against ticks. Use the ones that say they are effective against them. There are special means - acaricides.
4. Treatment against pests must be carried out two to three times.
5. Bathing Schlumberger in a warm shower is a good prevention of leaf pests.
6. Treat the purchased land with a solution of potassium permanganate.
7. Do not confuse the woodiness of the trunk of your Decembrist with root rot or other diseases! The woody trunk is dry, without wet spots.
8. Reddening of young leaves is normal; they turn green as they grow. Leaves can turn red during flowering if there is a lack of phosphorus. Fertilize with flowering plant fertilizer and spray with potassium monophosphate (1/4 teaspoon for two liters).
9. Whitish soil is caused not only from fungal diseases, but also from watering with hard water. Just peel off the top layer and add a new one. For prevention, you can sprinkle on top with a mixture of sand and ash and use filtered water.

Breeding problems

When growing Ripsalidopsis and Schlumberger, approximately the same difficulties are possible. They are associated with improper care:

1. If the soil or air is excessively moist, individual stem segments may fall off. The same is possible with an excess of fertilizer or too low temperature, not appropriate for the season and growth phase.
2. When exposed to direct sunlight, burns occur on the leaves. In appearance, they look like brown spots or areas of pallor.
3. If the soil is low in nutrients, the plant develops slowly and blooms poorly.

It is important not to move the pot during active flowering. From this buds crumble.

There are no particular difficulties in care, so growers are trying to get several types of these plants with different shades of flowers. Taking care of the plant will result in its abundant flowering.

Similar plants

Flowers similar to Ripsalidopsis are a subspecies of forest cacti. They all have fleshy stems, a similar structure and require the same conditions of detention. Among the similar ones is the epiphyllum. It has a leaf-shaped stem of dark green color. Flowers reach 12 cm in diameter, bright colors, fragrant aroma. What other flowers are similar?

1. Rhipsalis... It is a dense shrub that has many slender stems. At the ends of the shoots, small buds of yellow shades.
2. Prickly pear... The segments are thick and flat to form one trunk. It has an abundance of thorns. Also on the main stem there are shoots and flowers of various shades.
3. Pereskia... Ancient succulent plant. The leaves are decorative, all the functions are performed by the stem. Edible fruits.
4. Scaly cactus... It has elongated stems, buds are formed at the edges. Bright flowers and fruits.

So, Ripsalidopsis is a great option for growing at home. Long stems will look good in a hanging planter, and bright flowers will delight the eye and fill the room with a pleasant aroma.

How to choose?

When choosing a cactus in a store, it is important to pay attention to the visual stability of the plant, as well as the presence of incomprehensible spots, traces of rot and other symptoms of diseases. It is especially important to keep an eye on this in winter, after all, transportation and adaptation only increase the already existing stress of the plant, and if it is infected, then it is quite possible that it simply will not survive the path from the store.

Is hibernation necessary

The correct alternation of active growth and dormancy is the main guarantee of successful development and flowering.If the plant is not provided with sleep time, it will have stress, which can lead to disease.

Rhipsalidopsis begins to fall asleep in the fall. He needs about 4-5 months to sleep. At this time, it practically does not grow, and, of course, does not bloom. During this period, fertilizing is strictly forbidden to him, watering is reduced. To awaken the plant, they increase the amount of water for it, add top dressing, increase the air temperature.

Types and varieties

The Rhipsalidopsis Easter cactus has several varieties:

1. Gartner... This shrub up to 20 m high has soft creeping branches, glossy dark green skin. Each trunk consists of several flat segments up to 7 cm long and up to 2 cm in diameter. Ribs - 3-5 rounded protrusions, in the halos there is pubescence and 1-2 soft brownish spines. In April-May, flowers up to 8 cm long bloom at the end of each segment with a short crimson tube inside and pale pink petals.
2. Pink. Low-rise evergreen shrub. Each stem, as in all varieties, consists of segments with pronounced ribs and jagged edges. Each projection of the rib has halos, from which small yellowish bristles emerge. The flowers are pink, darker at the base, up to 5 cm in diameter. The petals are elongated, with a sharp edge, bent downward.

Other varieties are less popular for home growing. But in general, the plant is undemanding, like zygocactus, grows well on the windowsill, does not require special care.

Pink

Gartner

Pruning

During the transplant of Ripsalidopsis, pruning of old branches is carried out. It is important to do this precisely during the dormant period, until young buds begin to form. Flowering will not start if the shrub is cut in early spring. This procedure is only necessary in winter. It stimulates the growth of new branches. Usually, in place of 1 cut off stem, 3-4 new ones appear, which in a year will tie large buds. Pruning helps to form the correct crown of the flower, it rejuvenates and heals it. Lignified shoots are cut off with pruners or scissors, and young damaged segments are easily broken off by hand. They can be used for breeding.

Young segments of Ripsalidopsis ready for rooting

Growing conditions

Rhipsalidopsis is a rather capricious crop, especially in terms of humidity and temperature. Failure to comply with the temperature regime can lead to the lack of flowering.

Placement and lighting

These cacti need abundant diffused lighting and high-quality shading from direct sunlight. It is better to place them on the eastern and western windowsills. In the summer, you can move the container with Ripsalidopsis to the balcony or garden. This will help boost his immunity.

Did you know? In Mexico, a candy cactus grows, from which an exquisite delicacy is made. Its candied slices taste like a melon.

Temperature regime

In order for the plant to bloom, the room temperature must be maintained at + 20 ℃. In summer, a temperature rise of up to + 25 ℃ is permissible. Since September, the temperature is gradually reduced, bringing it to + 10 ... + 12 ℃ by winter.

Air humidity

Plants develop normally only at high humidity - at least 60%. In the summer, they are placed over pallets of wet sand. So that the bottom of the pot does not touch the water, slats are placed on the pallet, and a flower is placed on them. An easier option is to place a humidifier next to the plants. When switching to winter mode, spraying is stopped, and the pots are rearranged into empty trays.

Classification

Forest cacti are subdivided into the following genera:

1. Epiphyllums.
2. Ripsalis.
3. Rhipsalidopsis.
4. Schlum berger.

In the modern classification, there are no clear distinctions and it is often possible to find the same plant in different genera. And in various publications there is practically no division at all and all the names can be seen alternately.We are interested in Ripsalidopsis, so let's try to get to the bottom of the truth. Previously, experts attributed them to seven genera, but most often referred to as epiphilopsis.

To date, all Ripsalidopsis or Easter cacti belong to the genus Gatiora.

Rooting cuttings

Faster and easier method compared to seed germination. Germination material is taken during transplantation, which is carried out after flowering. Choose longer shoots and tear off the tops 5-6 cm long from them. For several days, the cuttings are dried on an open balcony. The tear-off site on the mother flower is treated with crushed chalk or ash.

The planting shoots are sprinkled with a powder-stimulator of root formation, then rooted in small containers with a mixture of humus, river sand and peat. It is pre-moistened with a spray bottle. Clean sphagnum moss is also suitable. Cuttings are buried so that they grow vertically. Thin wooden supports are sometimes used.

Rooting cuttings in separate containers

For normal rooting, a bright diffused light is required, as well as an air temperature of +22 degrees. You do not need to cover the seedling pots with polyethylene. It is enough just to moisten the ground as it dries. Rooting usually takes place over the course of a week. Then the established healthy shoots are transplanted into separate pots and provide them with partial shade for 5 days.

Air humidity and temperature

Hybrid varieties of the Ripsalidopsis flower feel comfortable at an air temperature of + 18-23 degrees. In the spring, to stimulate flowering, the room temperature is slightly lowered in February-March to + 12-15 degrees. During the heating season, make sure that the air is not too dry.

A tropical shrub loves moisture and is artificially maintained by using a humidifier and spraying the foliage with plain water from a spray bottle. Also, for additional moistening, the flowerpot is placed on a pallet with wet moss or river sand, but the water should not stagnate there. At low air temperatures in winter, spraying is stopped.

How to grow?

To force a plant to develop effectively, it needs not only to provide thoughtful care at home, but also to create the required conditions from the beginning. The cactus should be placed on the windowsill facing northeast or northwest. If this is not possible, and the window faces southeast or southwest, then it is important to move the pots a meter or one and a half from the glass. In summer, it is recommended to take the plant out into fresh air, additionally protecting it from precipitation, drafts and direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Alternatively, the flowerpot can be placed under a tree.

At the time of flowering, any movement of flowerpots is excluded. The slightest movement threatens to wither away the buds.

When flowering is complete, on the contrary, it is recommended to unfold the cactus from time to time to ensure more even crown development.

Temperature regime

While the vegetative period and flowering are in progress, the cactus must be kept at a temperature of 18 to 23 degrees. From about November to March, the temperature must be lowered to a range of 10 to 12 degrees, otherwise the buds will not appear next year. From the beginning of spring, the temperature gradually rises again. Ripsalidopsis suffers too high temperatures, as well as sharp temperature fluctuations, with negative consequences.

It is important to remember that the critical temperature for the dormant period is 8 degrees, and for the growing season - 15 degrees.

Lighting

The light for the cactus should be bright, but diffused. The plant will withstand light shade, but in this case you will not have to expect flowering. If the pot is located on a windowsill facing south, then Ripsalidopsis will have to be shaded.

In winter or in cloudy weather, you should think about additional illumination with specialized phytolamps.

Air humidity

Air humidity should not be lower than 60%, and its increase is even encouraged. Every day in the morning or in the evening, and in the summer and several times a day, cactus stalks must either be sprayed or wiped with a damp cloth. It is important to keep track of so that the spray does not end up on the petals. Additionally, the base of the stem can be covered with a layer of moistened sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. It is also recommended to purchase a full-fledged humidifier or just place bowls of water on the windowsill.

Sometimes Ripsolidopsis should be bathed in a warm shower, but not at the moment when it blooms.

Top dressing

They begin to feed the cactus from the end of February. Until flowering begins, this has to be done once every 3 or 4 weeks. It is best to purchase liquid solutions or special granules that are designed for cacti and succulents. When bloom begins the frequency of fertilization will have to be increased to approximately once every 2 weeks. Ripsolidopsis categorically does not accept organic fertilizing containing a large amount of nitrogen. In addition, calcium is also banned.

The optimal feeding contains a part of nitrogen, 2 parts of phosphorus, 3 parts of potassium and, if desired, a vermicompost base.

Watering

Ripsalidopsis cactus must be irrigated abundantly both during the growing season and during flowering. However, an excess of liquid will lead to stagnant processes in the soil, which, in turn, results in rotting of the root system. Therefore, each time, after completing watering, you need to wait about half an hour, and then pour excess water out of the pan... The liquid should be warm, between 28 and 30 degrees Celsius. You can pour it directly onto the stems, but never onto the flowers.

The irrigation frequency is determined by the condition of the soil. As soon as the topsoil has dried out 2-3 centimeters in depth, you can start watering again. This usually happens every 2 or 3 days. The most successful water - melt or rain, but if it is not available, then you can take a regular tap, then boil it or filter it.

A longer option for water preparation is to settle it for one day with the preliminary addition of citric acid or apple cider vinegar.

Fight disease

Gray rot disease is defined by the appearance of gray, weeping spots on the leaf-shaped segments, on which ashy and sometimes black villi grow. To save the cactus, it will immediately have to be transplanted, replacing both the pot and the soil, and first removing all damaged parts. Next, for four weeks, Ripsalidopsis will need to be watered with solutions such as "Skor" or "Kuprozan". Additionally, the plant can be treated with "Fundazol". The occurrence of root rot is signaled by black mucus on the stems and roots. In this case, the cactus will also have to be transplanted, but additionally intact parts will have to be disinfected in a fungicide solution, and the decaying ones will have to be removed. Of the drugs, "Gamair" and "Fitosporin" are suitable.

Late blight, which stops the development of the plant, is not cured - the cactus will have to be thrown away. At an early stage of the disease, however, you can try to influence the "Albit" or "Quadris" in conditions of complete isolation. The same is true for fusarium, the symptoms of which are watery spots, black mesh and the appearance of mold.

Rhipsalidopsis Gartner

I have a friend who is incredibly superstitious. She not only knows all the beliefs by heart, she also strictly observes them. He will never lend money if you ask on the 13th. Of course, she avoids meeting with a black cat ... She also paid attention to flower signs, and therefore a ficus standing on the windowsill in the kitchen saves her from hunger and poverty *.

And recently an amusing story happened to her.She called me somehow and asked with alarm in her voice:

- Do you know why my Decembrist bloomed in the spring? - Does it happen? - I am surprised. - Woooot! She practically screams in my ear. - Now I know why I have no luck in life!

I felt scared for the flower, I went to her to figure out why the forest cactus had become a spring conscript. I come and look. And it’s not a Decembrist who is blooming with her, but an Easter egg!

WHO IS WHO? THAT IS THE QUESTION

But this is the Decembrist Trunkata

And this is the Decembrist Trunkata

However, it is easy to confuse them, they are very much alike. However, they belong to different genera. Epiphytic cactus, popularly called Decembrist, known in botany under a different name - Schlumberger Trunkat or truncated zygocactus ** (Schlumbergera truncata, Zygocactus truncates). The flower was named after the connoisseur and collector of succulents and cacti, Frederick Schlumberger (19th century).

The Easter Egg is also an epiphytic cactus. In the previous taxonomy, this plant was considered to be in the genus ripsalidopsis, but modern taxonomists now attribute this epiphyte to a different genus, hatiore... This name is an anagram of the surname of the traveler and mathematician Thomas Harriott, who lived in the 16th century. According to another classification, the Easter flower is attributed to the genus Ripsalis. In the literature, however, most often the forest cactus is called either ripsalidopsisGartneror Hatior Gartner (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, Hatiora gaertneri).

But the places where they grow are the same. The habitat of the epiphytes under consideration is the tropical forests of Latin America. Only in Ripsalidopsis Gartner, the ecological niche is determined somewhat more broadly; it is found not only in the southeast of the continent, but also in its central part.

LEARNING TO DIFFERENCE

Difference number 1. Flowering time. The Christmas tree blooms, as expected, in the winter, and the Easter egg, respectively, in the spring, at Easter. Hence their names.

The dormant period in Ripsalidopsis is observed before flowering (autumn-winter). Schlumberger rests after flowering (spring). In other words, in the Decembrist, vegetative growth is observed in the summer, which ends with flowering, and the hatiors have a different biorhythm - flowering - growth - rest.

Difference number 2. And their buds are different. The Schlumberger petals are slightly curled back, there is a tube, the corollas are slightly beveled. And in Ripsalidopsis, the star flowers have the correct shape, the corolla is symmetrical.

Difference number 3. The stems of these two plants only at first glance seem to us identical, in fact, they are also different. In a winter flower, the plate ends with sharp teeth at the edges, and in a spring cactus, the segments are rounded, sometimes with a reddish edging.

But the tastes of the imaginary twin brothers are the same. Forest cacti do not like direct sunlight, prefer abundant watering, but their water should not stagnate in the pan. The soil should be slightly acidic, breathable. During budding and flowering, they cannot be turned over, placed near heating appliances, otherwise they will lose their beauty.

Schlumberger or zygocactus is an unpretentious indoor flower that can bloom in winter, in December, when other plants sleep or get sick from lack of sun - made it a favorite for a long time and was awarded the popular nicknames "Decembrist", "Christmas" or "Christmas cactus". Schlumberger is a branching plant with long, jointed branches (another popular name for a flower is "crayfish neck"). What we usually take for the leaves of the Decembrist - thin plates fastened to each other - is actually the stem of the flower, on which its buds appear.

The article describes the main indoor species of Schlumberger, gives advice on how to make the Decembrist bloom, and also provides basic recommendations for breeding and caring for this plant.

How to create optimal conditions for a plant at different times of the year

Rhipsalidopsis is a cactus, but a forest one.It does well in humid and warm climates. But the plant is undemanding to lighting. Unlike distant relatives, desert cacti, Ripsalidopsis in nature lives in partial shade under a canopy, which is formed by intertwining tree branches.

Table: optimal conditions for growing Ripsalidopsis

Rhipsalidopsis blooms luxuriantly if it has time to build up a green mass. And for this you need light. In the fall and winter (until February), periodically rotate the pot so that the "crown" is relatively symmetrical. When it's time to set the buds, stop moving the ripsalidopsis so it doesn't get stressed and shed future flowers.

Video: how to create the right microclimate for a flower

Possible content difficulties

A succulent plant has high immunity, however, with too much or improper care, it can face various diseases. The main diseases of Rhipsalidopsis:

• fungal infections manifest themselves by the formation of a white bloom or a cannon on the back of the shoots (spores), wet and dark spots, decaying areas of stems and roots;
• bacterial diseases are the worst amenable to treatment, and if you find them in an advanced form, it is almost impossible to save a cactus;
• with fusarium, the plant becomes infected through micro-holes on the leaves, stems, which can occur under mechanical stress or after pest bites;
• phytium, phytophthora enter the plant through infected soils, develop first in the root collar, then move to the stems, the plant withers, there is no growth, the skin may turn gray.

To combat fungal diseases, modern fungicides are used, with which all aerial parts are sprayed twice.

There are no cures for bacterial diseases; in terms of treatment, they use the removal of damaged shoots, and in advanced cases, transplanting a plant with its simultaneous reproduction with healthy parts of shoots.

The succulent is practically not susceptible to pest attacks, but it can become infected with them from other indoor flowers. The most common pest is the mealybug. It extracts juices from the fleshy segments of the stems. The fight against it is carried out with insecticides, in addition, you can use spraying or washing the branches with soapy water.

The flower differs from other cacti not only by its high decorativeness due to the large number of large bright buds, but also by its unpretentiousness. When growing, try not to move the pot, ensure a sufficient level of moisture and light, and apply top dressing in a timely manner.

The use of ripsalidopsis

Rhipsalidopsis are unpretentious, highly decorative plants. They will perfectly decorate any room and look very beautiful in pots on windows and shelves.

To give the plants a more branchy shape during reproduction, several cuttings (3-5 pieces) can be planted in one wide, but shallow dish, from which a wide and lush bush will form later.

You can take cuttings of different varieties, and then bushes with different flowers will bloom in one pot. Now in stores there are varietal and hybrid ripsalidopsis.

At home, after the stress of transportation and rearrangement, they can shed their buds. But, nevertheless, having survived these troubles with your help, a new plant in a year will be even more beautiful and blooming, and will present a real fireworks of bright and delicate flowers by Easter.

General information

Rhipsidopsis is also called the "Easter cactus" because it usually blooms around Easter. At night, each flower closes into buds, and in the morning it opens again. The plant blooms profusely in the period from 5 to 8 days. Rhipsalidopsis can be grown both in pots and hanging baskets.

REFERENCE: Ripsalidopsis is believed to energize the house with positive energy. It protects the owner from negative emotions and does not let aggressive people