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Types of mold

Unfortunately, many people have managed to get acquainted with mold. But not everyone knows that it can be different. Not only colors differ, but also the structure, as well as the effect on the human body. What types of mold are there?

Mold: what is it, why does it appear?
What is mold?

Black mold
Green mold
Pink mold
White mold
Blue mold
Gray mold

How to fight?

What to add to the soil to protect against disease?

Top rot is not caused by fungi or bacteria - it is a symptom caused by calcium starvation at the distal end of the fetus, which manifests itself as depressed spots that appear on the tops of green fruits. The spots can be dry, dark in color, or weeping dark green.
The following factors contribute to the disease (lack of calcium or its non-assimilation):

Excess nitrogen in the soil.
Lack of moisture or uneven watering.
Sharp temperature fluctuations.

Top rot prevention and treatment:

It is advisable to enrich the soil with calcium. Dolomite flour can be used for this purpose. But dolomite decomposes in the soil for a very long time, so it is impractical to bring it in in the spring (sometimes gardeners pour it into the hole when planting seedlings), it is more correct to add dolomite flour in the fall for digging. Also, sometimes gardeners use crushed eggshells, but they are much less effective.
It is necessary to water the plants regularly, especially during hot periods.
Tomatoes are treated with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 20 grams per 10 liters of water 2 times a week until the heat subsides.
Avoid satiety with dressings with potassium and magnesium - these elements are calcium antagonists, reduce its absorption.

General rules for the prevention of tomato diseases are mandatory for any gardener.

The first and most important rule: the causative agents of most diseases persist for a long time in the soil and on plant debris, therefore, whatever the tomatoes get sick, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area from tops, roots, and rotten fruits. Do not throw it all into the compost heap, but dry it on iron sheets and burn it.
Second rule: always disinfect the seed by any means available. Soaking in stimulants won't help, just pickling.
Third rule: some fungi conidia can remain viable for several months, others for several years. Therefore, vegetables should be alternated in the garden, follow the rules of crop rotation.
The fourth rule: you cannot add manure and fresh compost for vegetable crops, only humus and well-rotted compost.
Fifth rule: you should not plant the plants densely, it is necessary that the bushes are well ventilated and high humidity is not created at the surface of the soil.
Rule six: start disease prevention with planting. Good results, for example, are obtained by introducing 2-4 g of trichodermine per bush (in each well), this will help to reduce the infestation of plants in the most crucial, early period.
Rule seven: grow only zoned varieties that are resistant to late blight, if the weather is unfortunate, no treatments will help stop the spread of infection.

Reasons for the appearance

This is a consequence of illiterate agrotechnical measures in combination with weather conditions:

In conditions of insufficient humidity and high temperatures, rapid evaporation of liquid occurs from the vegetative organs of the plant: leaves, trunk. If moisture is not compensated to the plant in a timely manner through the roots, it extracts it from the fruit.
Excessive nitrogen.
Insufficient or excessive content of calcium in the soil.
Acidic soils.

Signs of illness

It is not always easy to recognize the signs of this disease. at the initial stage of development, it is confused with late blight. Most often, signs of infection appear on the fruits of the second and third hand. To start treatment in a timely manner, you need to correctly identify the symptoms:

At the tips of the fruits, dark green spots of a flat or slightly depressed shape appear at first with a liquid structure under the epidermis.
Further, the color of the spot becomes brownish-gray, brown, sometimes almost black.
The tissue of the fruit under the skin becomes soft and rots.
Over time, the skin on the spot dries up and cracks, the disease moves inward and a depression forms on the surface.
Such fruits suspend growth, are significantly deformed. They quickly begin to blush without increasing in size and crumble.

The non-infectious form of the disease affects the fruits on one plant and it is necessary to work to eliminate the causes that caused its development. After settling on the affected areas of spores of fungi and their infection, the fruits become the spread of the disease to neighboring plants and soil.

The spread of apical rot is easier to prevent than to cure, so it is necessary to regularly prevent it:

Inspection of plants is carried out for the presence of characteristic signs of various diseases, including apical rot, in order to take comprehensive measures in a timely manner.
Remove affected tomatoes immediately and destroy them outside the territory of the site. It is unacceptable to use the affected fruits in food, either fresh or processed. They are also unsuitable for collecting seeds.
Process the plants. After identifying lesions and harvesting damaged fruits, it is necessary to carry out treatment with folk remedies or special preparations.

There are several remedies that will help in the fight against this infection:

Calcium nitrate. It is used to replenish calcium deficiency and stop the development of foci of decay. Processing is carried out by foliar feeding after watering, for which 5-10 g of saltpeter are dissolved in 1 liter of water. You can also use a solution of potassium chloride (3-4 g per 1 liter of water).
Preparations with calcium and boron enhance the effect and improve the absorption of calcium, for which 10 g of boric acid are added to 10 liters of calcium nitrate solution. For the same purposes, the drug "Brexil Ca" is intended, which contains calcium in an easily available form and is used for foliar dressing with an interval of 10-14 days. (10 g per 10 l of water).
Fertilizers with phosphorus.Foliar fertilization with phosphorus fertilizers is also effective, which strengthen the immunity of plants. For feeding, the solution is prepared:
add 150 ml of extract to 10 liters of water;
add 20 g of nitrogen fertilizers.
The plants are sprayed with the solution using a sprayer.

Non-toxic agents are often used to prevent the development of the disease. Spraying of plants, soil around the stem is done after removing damaged fruits and leaves:

Exhaust spraying of wood ash. This affordable product contains various beneficial elements that significantly improve the structure of fruits: calcium, phosphorus, manganese, boron and others. To prepare a solution, 100 g of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of boiling water and insisted until it cools completely, and then the plants are filtered and sprayed.
Treatment with a soda solution is often used by vegetable growers for the prevention of disease and treatment, for which 10-20 g of soda ash is dissolved in 10 liters of warm water.

In the greenhouse and in the open field, the treatment of tomatoes against top rot does not differ significantly. The main thing is to anticipate the disease, timely deep watering and sufficient mineral nutrition.

In greenhouses, regular ventilation is an important measure. Given that it is more difficult to observe crop rotation in greenhouses, more attention is paid to disinfecting the soil and structures after harvesting the plants.

Disinfection of the soil is carried out with solutions of potassium permanganate, Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or fundozol.
Digging. The soil is dug deeply with lime and eggshells.

You can watch how a gardener treats apical rot, gives useful recommendations on how to prevent the development of the disease, in the video.

To avoid infection, preventive measures should be taken:

Seeds are treated with disinfectants:

A solution of potassium permanganate (3%) for 20-30 minutes.
Iron vitriol (1 g per 1 liter of water) for 24 hours.

Before planting tomatoes, agents are introduced to reduce the acidity of the soil and improve immunity: dolomite flour, lime - fluff, chalk in the amount of 2-3 tbsp. l. on a bucket of soil. To reduce the risk of developing diseases, wood ash is added as a top dressing when planting a tomato, for which a glass of ash is introduced into each hole, mixing it with soil.

Correct watering.

Watering tomatoes is carried out depending on weather conditions with an interval of 5-7 days. Watering should be abundant, to the full depth of the roots, but not frequent. If the weather is hot and dry, the period between waterings can be shortened, but not waterlogged.

Mulching is used to preserve soil moisture.

Tomato processing.

To improve nutrition and strengthen immunity, complex preparations containing various trace elements and amino acids are used. The drugs Megafol, Mir, Gumifid are applied by foliar spraying alone or in combination with other drugs in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

According to the recommendations of Oktyabrina Ganichkina, a well-known blogger and vegetable grower, the main condition in the fight against diseases is prevention, strict adherence to agricultural technology and the cultivation of resistant hybrid varieties of tomatoes.

Top rot of tomatoes is an unpleasant phenomenon, but it is quite fixable. An attentive attitude to plants will allow you to timely identify the symptoms of the disease and take measures to correct the situation.

Gray molds cause serious damage to tomatoes in the greenhouse. The factors that can cause infections are as follows:

Incorrect temperature conditions. High humidity and heat are the best conditions for the development of a pathogen.The fungus also appears in cool, damp weather, quickly affecting tomato bushes.
Excessive watering of tomatoes.
Excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil.
Pests on tomatoes: aphids, thrips. Plants weakened and damaged by pests are more often affected by the fungus.
Thickened planting of tomatoes.
Lack of disinfection of the greenhouse after harvest.
Use for planting infected seeds.
Failure to comply with crop rotation on the site.

When signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to treat the infected areas with crushed charcoal, chalk, ash, potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.

The most basic mistake is the lack of crop rotation.
Excessively dense planting of tomato seedlings also contributes to the appearance of the fungus.
Also, gardeners often poorly monitor the level of air humidity and temperature indicators in the greenhouse, and this, in turn, can provoke the development of the disease.

Preventive actions

Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure. This statement fully applies to tomatoes. Compliance with agrotechnical requirements for growing tomatoes will help to grow, harvest and maintain a decent harvest. What should you pay attention to?

Balance mineral fertilizers.
Accurate handling of plants... Broken twigs can cause disease.
Soil mulching, which will affect its properties and will not dry out.
Hypothermia protection during planting.
Plant protection against unsuitable weather conditions (disembarkation in greenhouse conditions).
Maintaining the optimal distance between plants for the sufficiency of their receipt of useful substances.
Timely and thorough soil disinfection.
Choice and seed processing.

Causes of the onset of the disease

Top rot appears mainly on unripe tomatoes. Further growth of fruits stops, they turn red earlier than healthy ones and soon fall off.

Fungi and bacteria settle on the tissue affected by rot, penetrate deep into the fetus. The pulp rots, the seeds become infected.

Calcium is involved in the processing and assimilation of nutrients (such as starch and protein) and promotes nitrogen absorption.

Calcium ions are part of the cell walls. The lack of this element leads to cell deformation, the formation of weak integumentary tissues.

Calcium is inactive in the soil and plant tissues. In the organs of the bushes, it is distributed exclusively by the flow of transpiration - the physiological evaporation of water.

After being absorbed by the roots, the ions move to the parts that most actively evaporate moisture. In tomatoes, these are mature leaves. The element is not redistributed throughout the plant and cannot move from large leaves to young ones. Fruits evaporate less or do not evaporate water at all, so calcium deficiency primarily manifests itself on them.

Factors leading to calcium deficiency are varied:

Insufficient watering during the period of mass formation and pouring of tomatoes provokes stress. Evaporating leaves pull moisture away from the ovaries, and with it the necessary trace elements.
Hot weather increases transpiration and growing tomatoes are left without water and calcium dissolved in it.
Acidified soil contains few calcium ions in a form available to plants.
In saline soils, the balance of minerals is disturbed. So, with an excess of potassium, sodium and magnesium, the absorption of calcium by the roots of tomatoes slows down. The lack of boron negatively affects the degree of assimilation by plant tissues.
Excess nitrogen in the ammonium form weakens the ability of ions to penetrate the roots.

Varietal characteristics also affect the development of top rot. Large-fruited or elongated fruits of tomatoes, as well as early-ripening varieties, are more often exposed to this disease.

The disease spreads very quickly.Wet weather is favorable for its development. For 3-5 days the spot grows along the entire perimeter of the stem. In the first week, the fungus does not form spores. The development of necrosis of the cortex and blood vessels occurs inside the stem.

The leaves above the spot begin to turn yellow, and the stem, due to lack of moisture, begins to form air roots. Then the whole plant withers and disappears.

Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure later. In addition, one diseased plant is capable of infecting all neighboring plants. And this, in turn, is fraught with the loss of a large amount of the crop.

Topsin M.
Bayleton.
"Euparen Multi" 1.5-3 kg per hectare.
Use of sodium humate.

It is necessary to process tomatoes several times per season. Timely preventive measures taken will help protect plants from infection.

The breeders have not developed a variety that is resistant to rot. Therefore, summer residents are trying to pay more attention to prevention:

Processing is carried out in May, all damaged plants are subjected to it. Re-processing after 14 days.
In July, they process partially, only those tomatoes that the summer resident suspects of non-compliance with the norm.
In August. Continuous processing is carried out, be sure to repeat after 14 days.

To consolidate the result, they are treated with a growth stimulant.

The affected areas are treated with a special paste. They do which, on their own, by connecting:

10 liters of water.
300-350 g of CMC glue.
30-40 g of fungicide.

Adding chalk leads to a paste state. Coat the damaged areas, capturing 2-3 cm of a healthy stem. The likelihood of new spots appearing after 2 weeks. It is recommended to re-examine the infected tomato.

Trichodermin suspension is used as a preventive measure. It is used for processing sections after removing stepchildren and leaves. Spraying is recommended for mass pruning. The best time for the disinfection procedure is a clear day, the bushes must dry.

At the very beginning of the disease, a watery, inconspicuous spot forms on the top of the fetus. Over time, the skin above it becomes dry and takes on a brown tint. The surface looks a little depressed inward in rounded tomatoes, and in varieties with a "spout" there is no apex protrusion.

The size of the external skin lesion may be relatively small, but more significant changes occur under the membrane:

various fungi and bacteria settle on the affected part of the skin, which penetrate into the fetus;
the tomato pulp darkens, and then rots;
as the hyphae of fungi (phytophthora, peronosporosis and others) penetrate into the seed chambers, the seeds are also affected.

The fruit on which the apical rot develops begins to ripen earlier than the neighboring ones.

In a garden with dense, heavy soil prone to acidification, liming of the soil must be carried out. To do this, use dolomite and bone meal, ground chalk, fluff, adding substances at the rate of about 1 kg per 1 m² for the autumn digging. Soils can also be limed in spring.
The swampy area must be well drained, and if it is impossible to do this, make high beds, into which to fill in soil with a light structure and the addition of substances containing lime.
In the greenhouse, the cause of the top of rot is often a lack of water. If the soil in the tomato bed is dry and free-flowing like sand, it needs to be slightly weighted with the addition of turf soil or garden soil. Add chalk or dolomite flour to reduce acidity, and mulch the soil after planting to reduce evaporation.

If you balance the composition of the soil and water the plantings on time and in sufficient quantities, then the top rot of the tomatoes will not appear in the garden. It is not caused by infectious causes, so you can prevent it by taking good care of your plants.

Inside the stem, necrosis of blood vessels and bark grows.Due to the lack of water flow on a small part of the stem, as a result of necrosis, the wilting of tomatoes begins. The foliage placed above this area begins to turn yellow, and many air formations form on the stem.

very often the spread of fungi occurs in the case of the use of non-sterile soil, which is a storehouse of spores, as well as the mycelium of various infections;
non-observance of the humidity regime in the greenhouse and too abundant watering can cause infection of tomatoes;
often, fungi of the pathogen can be present on the seeds, in particular when using their own seed for sowing;
It should be noted that with insufficient watering, the plant organism weakens and becomes more susceptible to damage by most diseases, including gray rot.

This infection is very common and can infect many cultures. In particular, among vegetables, tomatoes, lettuce, beets, potatoes, beans, cabbage, onions, cucumbers and radishes are susceptible to disease. In especially wet seasons, this disease can destroy almost all strawberries.

Applied remedy	Application Description
Soap and copper	The most common and affordable way is to spray infected tomatoes with a solution of soap and copper.
Copper sulfate	Treatment of a plant with a composition of copper sulfate (5 g of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water)
Baking soda	Using a baking soda solution (80 gr. Diluted in 10 liters of water)
Boric acid	It is also possible to spray with 1% boric acid (see → secrets of using boric acid for feeding tomatoes)
Homemade pasta	To treat the disease, a paste of glue and trichodermine is used, which is applied directly to the infected areas. But this method is effective only at the initial stage of the disease.

Treatment should be started immediately and thoroughly. In the initial stages, you can get rid of the infection fairly quickly. However, in the advanced stages, the process will be difficult and lengthy. And if you start the fight against the pest out of time, you can even lose your harvest. The danger of the disease lies in its rapid spread on tomatoes and crops growing nearby. It is not dangerous for humans.

In order to start the treatment of tomato apical rot on time, it is important to know the characteristic signs of this disease. Unripe fruits of the second and third cluster are most susceptible to infection. The first symptoms appear at the tips (tops) of the fruit as flat or depressed liquid spots. The color of the spots is at first dark green, and with the development of the disease changes to gray-brown, up to black.

The first signs of top rot on tomatoes

Infected fruits stop growing and quickly deform. Over time, the skin on the spot dries up and cracks, and the disease penetrates into the fetus. Fungi of the genus Alternaria can settle on areas affected by apical rot, which causes the flesh of the tomatoes to darken and rot.

Fruits affected by apical rot ripen faster than others and fall off the branches. You cannot use them fresh or for processing, as well as collect seed from them.

Top rotted tomatoes are not suitable for consumption Note!

In addition to tomatoes, kagatny rot affects strawberries, potatoes, beets, radishes, cucumbers, and onions.

Tomatoes pick up infection from infected crops, and plants also get sick when planted in beds where cucumbers or lettuce infected with the fungus previously grew.

Late blight

Late blight or late blight (the causative agent of Phytophthora infestans) is a fungal disease well known to every gardener and can cause significant damage to the tomato crop.

With late blight, brown spots appear on the leaves and stems, which increase, especially quickly at high humidity. A gray bloom appears on the leaves on the underside. Later, with the development of the disease, brown or light gray spots appear on the fruits.

To prevent the disease, it is important to carry out preventive measures before planting tomato seedlings in the ground. For the treatment of phytophthora, there are chemical and biological products. Each has its own pros and cons.

Read more about late blight.

Lack of moisture and hot air lead to intensive evaporation of liquid from the leaves and trunk. If during this period moisture is not provided through the root system, the plant begins to suck it out of the fruit. As a result, some of the fruit cells die off and the top rot of tomatoes develops, the treatment of which is much more difficult and labor-intensive than the prevention of infection.

Among other reasons for the development of tomato top rot are:

Lack or excess of calcium;
Excess nitrogen;
High soil acidity.

Tomato rot is a common and contagious disease that most often manifests itself on fresh shoots and even green tomatoes. Its occurrence can be influenced by completely different factors, for example.

Such as improper, too intensive watering, insufficient ventilation, poor disinfection of seeds before planting, and much more. There are 3 main types of pathogens: late blight, apical rot, fusarium. The wilting of plants along with the fruits has a detrimental effect on the harvest, reducing it at times.

To avoid this, it is necessary to carry out systematic prevention, as well as a regular course according to a certain algorithm. More on this below.

There are many reasons for the appearance of gray-brown spots and fruit rot. This includes factors such as a predisposition to infections. Poor care, environment, local climate and more. Most gardeners think that blackening of tomatoes occurs only when infected with phytophthora fungal spores, but this is far from the case.

First, do a visual analysis of the bush and the tomatoes themselves. For example, if the inside of the pulp is hard, but devoid of juice, this is the top rot.

Rot on tomatoes indicates their defeat

Also, in addition to infectious diseases: top rot, late blight and fusarium, which will be described below, the cause of decay can be:

lack of moisture, while tomatoes grab evaporation from the air and a chemical reaction occurs in the fruits, causing them to turn black;
lack of magnesium and boron in the soil.

Since rot spreads instantly. Every time when watering or other care, inspect the bushes so that at the first signs they begin to fight the disease.

Late blight or late blight is one of the most dangerous diseases for tomatoes. It can develop suddenly and develop within a few days and be transferred to other plants, causing their death. The causative agent is spores of a fungus of the same name.

Causes of late blight

lack of proper ventilation;
violation of air circulation due to too frequent planting of plants and poor pinching;

Incorrect pinching is one of the reasons for the development of late blight

the formation of condensation on the back of the protective film;
cold rains are favorable to the development of late blight;
sharp day-night drops and insufficiently warm temperature indicators.

The first signs of the disease on tomatoes, as a rule, are already on the 8-10th day of infection.

Signs of late blight

The characteristic signs of the disease include characteristic rapidly growing brown-gray spots on the back of the leaf. A thin white bloom is also characteristic on the same part. In a few days, the spots grow and merge, the leaf shrinks and flies off.

Following the green part, the fruits are infected in a similar way, blackening and falling off.

Manifestation of late blight of tomato

Top rot

The most vulnerable are tomatoes of the first and second stages of maturity. But some tomatoes like the Mushroom Basket are immune. Still green, but already large in size, they are experiencing an urgent need for moisture and nutrition, and therefore I can get infected sooner.

Top rot is a superficial death of fruit cells due to an acute lack of nutrients.

Manifestation of top rot on tomatoes

lack of proper moisture;
hot, dry air;
excessive soil salinity;
lack of calcium;
excess nitrogen.

The first indicators of the disease appear at the very tips of the tomato. Tomatoes are covered with saucer-shaped spots, with a soft base.

The color shade of the spots varies from dark green to gray-brown and black.

One of the characteristic features is, unlike phytophthora, inside the pulp remains practically unchanged. With progressive infection, spores of the Alternaria fungus are added, penetrating through the cracks into the interior of the tomato and destroying it further.

Top rotted tomatoes stop growing, deform, fall off the branch on their own

It is not recommended to eat and harvest the seeds of infected tomatoes.

Fusarium is the least dangerous disease of all that can cause rot. Nevertheless, in the absence of proper treatment, the likelihood of the death of a tomato is very high. It occurs during the active stage of growth and flowering.

Fusarium reasons

infected seeds;
possible cuts and natural transfer of sources;
low temperature during sowing, below 14 °;
activation of infection at temperatures during the flowering period up to 28 ° C;

Fusarium tomato wilting

Signs of fusarium

direction of distribution: from the lower leaves to the top;
leaves and trunk turn pale green with a yellow tint;
curling and falling of leaves;
the upper shoots dry;
a light white bloom appears on the roots and pink in the place of the root collar.

Rotten diseases spread not only to tomatoes, but also to crops located nearby.

How to fight

Fungal infections are best treated at an early stage, the more advanced the form, the stronger the drugs should be.

That is, if at the first stage you can sometimes do with folk remedies, then in the future you cannot do without chemically active drugs.

The growing conditions of tomatoes in a greenhouse and in the ground are different, therefore, the fight against rot is different.

Top rot appears on tomatoes for the following reasons:

Imbalance in soil pH;
The content of nitrogen, potassium and magnesium in the plants themselves is increased;
Reduced content of phosphorus, calcium and manganese;
Frequent watering;
Mechanical damage to the root system.

For example, a lack of an element such as calcium. Very often, the plant is unable to assimilate calcium from the soil, where there is a lot of it. What are the reasons that prevent tomatoes from absorbing calcium when it is abundant in the soil? It is impossible to answer unequivocally. The most common cause of apical rot is a sudden and frequent change between dry and wet periods.

Tomatoes are grown in almost all summer cottages and backyards. Often summer residents are faced with cultural diseases, gray rot of tomatoes is one of them. Another name is phomosis.

Plants that help neutralize infection

There are a number of types of disease that affects tomatoes that grow not only in greenhouse conditions, but also in open ground.

gray rot;
white rot;
brown rot;
root rot;
top rot of tomatoes.

In addition to processing the greenhouse in the winter, the beds are planted with the following plants:

Mustard.
Calendula.
Marigolds.

The peculiarity is that they secrete substances that prevent the disease from spreading further.

Symptoms of gray mold infestation in tomatoes

The symptoms of infection are obvious even visually. The first signs are visible on the leaves, which are covered with small gray-brown dots, which then grow and merge. Later, a fluffy bloom with spores forms on the leaf, which passes to the stems and fruits. Dry light brown spots are formed on the stem.

Gray rotted tomato leaves

Fruit damage starts from the peduncle, then round, watery spots of gray appear, quickly covering the entire fruit. The entire surface of a tomato berry becomes watery over time and becomes covered with a gray fluff. Leaves turn yellow and wither due to metabolic disorders and inhibition of photosynthesis.

Gray rotted tomato fruit

The infected plant loses its turgor, stops growing and develops - it may eventually die, since the fungus eventually infects all parts of the plant, including the root system.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Question number 1. Can this disease seriously harm tomatoes?

No, because it attacks plants often at the end of October - with the onset of rains and frosts.

Question number 2. What is the very first symptom of the onset of the disease?

The onset of the disease is slight marks of a red or rusty hue, which gradually get wet and begin to rot.

Question number 3. What drugs are most popular in the fight against rot?

Periodic spraying with the Barrier as well as the Barrier is usually carried out.

Question number 4. What are the main causes of the onset of the disease?

The optimal conditions for the spread of infection are air humidity in the range of 90-100%, along with high temperatures of 22-30 ° C.

Preventive measures

It is very difficult to cure rot on tomatoes, therefore, measures are taken to exclude its occurrence:

They comply with agrotechnical requirements for cultivation.
They feed the plants competently by combining fertilizers.
The planting material is hardened and disinfected.
They process soil and substrates.
Planted at an optimal distance.
Observe the prescribed indicators of humidity, lighting and temperature.
Use growth stimulants.
Set up drip irrigation.
The beds are mulched.

For the effectiveness of the measures taken, their timely application is important. Being late greatly reduces their effectiveness.

When the first signs of the disease appear, the greenhouse should be ventilated more often. Thereby reducing the level of humidity in the air.

The virus spreads by air. Plants that have wounds inflicted during harvesting or other activities are especially susceptible to its influence. When pinching, the instrument must be sharp; the procedure is carried out in dry weather. All plant residues are immediately removed.

Gray rot on tomatoes is sometimes mistaken by summer residents for didimella or fusarium. Therefore, measures to combat are postponed, the consequences are then much more difficult to fix. Treatment of stains with a special fungicidal ointment is able to protect plants from further development of the disease.

Any protective solution will show itself better at the initial stage. To do this, tomatoes are examined for symptoms every few days. Timely determination of the type of rot will save the bush itself and other crops on the site from death.

Legumes

The most vulnerable to the disease are leguminous pods. The first sign of the disease is the appearance of a dark olive bloom. Ignoring the disease leads to the complete death of plants.

Prevention

Preventive measures:

Correct crop rotation.
Compliance with the optimal irrigation regime.
Pest control.

Control methods

If signs of disease are found, it is important to immediately spray the plantings with fungicides. Experts recommend drugs such as Teldor, Horus and Switch.

Why is it dangerous?

We can say that it is a plant predator that feeds on carrion.It does not attack healthy plants, but should it weaken a little or get damaged, the pathogenic fungus activates and finishes it off. It can get through withered flowers, damaged fruit.

What affects the gray rot: leaves, fruits, flowers. In the absence of treatment, a gradual wilting, decay begins. The process of photosynthesis stops, frost resistance decreases. The "patient" has no chance to grow, he does not grow new shoots, the yield is extremely low. The last stage of the disease is death.

The botrytis fungus lives in the remains of vegetation, in the ground. It is easily transmitted through the air, by direct contact (for example: during care or when harvesting), even through splashing water. Another big problem is that the parasitic fungus is capable of infecting different cultures.

Prevention methods

To reduce the likelihood of fungus attack on strawberries, you should properly care for the plants.

for planting, you need to choose varieties that are more resistant to diseases - Druzhba, Desnyanka, Muto and others;
planting is best done in the sunny part of the garden; it is not recommended to plant strawberries even with a little shade;
there should be a small space between the rows so that the plants do not come into contact with each other;
with the onset of spring, dried plant residues that may be affected by a fungus should be removed from the beds;
after flowering strawberries, it is recommended to mulch the soil with hay or sawdust;
when berries appear, you should make sure that they do not lie on the ground - you can raise them with props;
if there are infected berries or leaves, they should be removed in a timely manner to prevent infection of other parts of the plant;
to prevent the occurrence of gray rot, you need to regularly weed the beds, preventing the growth of weeds;
when watering strawberries, water should not fall on the upper parts of the plant, water should only be watered at the root.

These simple methods will significantly reduce the likelihood of disease in planting strawberries. They do not require special expenditure of energy, the use of fertilizers and chemicals.

Expert advice

To protect strawberries from the appearance of gray rot, experts advise:

remove mulch left over from last year and dry foliage, since spores of gray rot persist in them;
timely fertilization of strawberries helps to strengthen the bushes and disinfect the soil;
it is not recommended to fertilize with mullein, since it is a favorable breeding ground for the fungus;
do not apply nitrogen-based fertilizers, as this promotes overgrowth of the bushes. Growing bushes form a shadow, which interferes with full heating and airing of the soil;
after each watering it is obligatory loosen the soilto prevent stagnation of moisture that promotes the development of fungus;
preventing disease can help planting between rows of strawberries, onions, or garlic... Their biologically active substances suppress the development of the fungus;
before flowering, be sure to treat strawberries with special preparations for fungal infection.

In order to protect strawberries from infection with gray rot, it is necessary to create proper conditions - well-heated and ventilated beds. Patient and caring care will reward you with a good harvest of ripe and healthy berries.

Folk remedies

Some summer residents categorically do not accept the use of chemistry on the site, for this they are looking for ways to fight based on natural products:

The soap is mixed with copper, the bushes are sprayed.
5 g of copper sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water.
80 g of baking soda is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
1% boric acid solution is used for spraying bushes.

Each summer resident has the right to choose for himself how to treat damaged tomatoes. An effective way is found over the years.

An important condition for carrying out any treatment for gray rot on tomatoes is the use of several methods in combination. This is the only way to achieve the maximum result. The main advice of the article, it is better to prevent the disease than to cure later.

Varieties of mold

Faced with such a problem as mold in a flower pot, how to get rid of it depends on its type and the reasons for its occurrence.

Black mold

Black mold occurs due to high humidity. It can have various shades.

When this type of mold appears, you should immediately begin the process of getting rid of it, since she is the most dangerous to humans... Interaction with it can lead to an allergic reaction and respiratory failure.

White types of fungus

White mold often appears in soil, trees and plants. The most common species that predominantly appears in flower pots.

In appearance, this fungus is similar to salt stains. They differ in structure. Salt deposits represent microcrystalline formations that do not lose their shape. Mold is easily rubbed in the hands.

If a bloom is seen on the soil in the form of white, grayish or green spots, then it may be efflorescence - the result of chemical reactions, it has nothing to do with mold. It negatively affects not only the outer part of the soil, but also penetrates into the inner layers.

Terms of distribution

Fungal diseases caused by various kinds fungi that develop and spread under certain conditions... But mostly, conditions are related to temperature, humidity and lighting.

Some types of fungi, such as Phytophtora cactorum, require high humidity and temperature, while others require dry air and lower temperatures.

Therefore, it is desirable for flower growers to know the physiological and biological characteristics and characteristics of the type of orchids grown at home.

Exactly proper care, the creation of the necessary conditions, the absence of "excessive" care and the implementation of the recommendations of experienced orchid growers will ensure the health of exotic beauties.

Prevention measures

A rotting orchid is a sad sight. In order not to face it, prevention should be carried out.

Effective prevention measuresaccumulated by the experience of orchid growers:

comfortable temperature with drops of no more than 5 ° С;
humidity 50-60%;
moderate watering, with drying out of the substrate;
removing water from the leaf axils;
diffuse and sufficient lighting;
ventilation, avoiding drafts and cold air;
strict adherence to the rules and concentrations of dressings.

Florists who decide to grow an exotic plant at home need to remember that a healthy, strong and well-immune plant is practically not exposed to any kind of disease. Therefore, proper care, maintaining the required growing conditions is the key to strong immunity and, accordingly, a healthy plant.