Chrysanthemum perennial undersized: description with photo, reproduction, cultivation features and rules of care

Outdoor planting and subsequent care of perennial chrysanthemums is easy, but it's important to keep the details in mind. And then the chrysanthemums in the garden will delight in the country or in the garden with attractiveness and flowering for a long time. For many, the flower is associated with the autumn period. Indeed, the plants amaze with their beauty after the leaves have flown and all other flowers have bloomed. Taking care of chrysanthemums is easy enough. Even a novice gardener can easily cope with the task.

Main types

In total, there are several varieties of stunted chrysanthemums. Due to the variety in growth and flowering period, these crops are so popular among gardeners. In general, they are all divided into tall, medium-sized and low-growing varieties. Low-growing chrysanthemums grow no more than 30 cm in height. Medium-sized ones grow up to 40 cm.As for the tall varieties, their height is about 70 cm.

Medium-sized crops are considered the most common due to their moderate flowering and the ability to plant them in absolutely any place. Perennial bush low-growing chrysanthemum flowers can be used to decorate a garden, loggia, flower bed, room, as well as any room.

Gardeners also produce multiflora chrysanthemums, which differ in their flowering period. There are early flowering varieties that bloom in August, mid-flowering varieties that are able to delight with their beautiful appearance in September, as well as late flowering varieties that bloom in late September or early October. If you choose the right variety of perennial low-growing bush chrysanthemum, you can provide yourself with a constantly blooming flower bed that will decorate the garden from the beginning of summer until the first frost.

General information

Garden chrysanthemum, Chinese, or, as it is also called, mulberry - a group of hybrids from the genus Chrysanthemums, the Astrov family. It does not occur in the wild in nature. First described by Chinese and Japanese breeders, the result of intentional or spontaneous hybridization of other species of the same genus, mainly Indian chrysanthemum.

Garden chrysanthemum is a herbaceous perennial with erect stems. Their height can vary from 25 cm to one and a half meters. Thinner, highly branched branches, densely covered with stem leaves, diverge from the dense central shoot. The upper part of the leaf plate is green, sometimes with a silvery tinge, slightly pubescent; the underside is grayish-green, with abundant pubescence.

Inflorescence - basket, consists of many small flowers of different sexes. Female, ligulate - three petals fused into a reduced corolla - are located along the edges of the inflorescence. Bisexual, tubular, with a five-petal corolla and accrete stamens, occupying inflorescences depends on the ratio of tubular and reed flowers.

Inflorescences differ in shape, size and color. Moreover, in large-flowered double hybrids, the seeds are practically not tied due to the small number of tubular flowers in the basket.

Growing rules

Planting a low-growing perennial chrysanthemum and caring for a flower can be carried out both in pots and outdoors in the open field. If you want to grow this culture at home, then you must adhere to the important cultivation features. The rules for caring for a garden perennial undersized chrysanthemum are as follows:

First of all, it is necessary to provide the plant with proper lighting. If the bush is planted in a sunny area, then this can prevent short-term and late flowering. In addition, the choice of such a place will protect the crop from growing very long shoots. It is the short shoots that are the main feature of all varieties of low-growing perennial chrysanthemums.
The soil must be mixed with humus or compost, which improves fertility. In addition, for growing low-growing varieties of garden perennial chrysanthemums, it is better to use loose and light soil. However, do not overdo it, otherwise chrysanthemums will actively grow, with little bloom.
It is necessary to plant spherical undersized perennial chrysanthemums on cloudy days. This should be done in the summer, in the evening or early in the morning. Initially, the prepared hole must be watered abundantly, after which the drainage layer must be laid, and then the soil itself. Pebbles or broken bricks can be used as drainage. It is not worth planting varieties of low-growing perennial garden chrysanthemums, the photos of which are presented in this article, too deeply, since the root system of this culture is located at the soil surface. The depth of the fossa should be no more than 40 cm.
After planting, the culture must be pinched. For this, the growth point is removed. Then the second pinching is carried out after 3 weeks, during which a couple of nodes and a shoot are removed. Some argue that the spherical shape in the culture is laid down at the genetic level, so the pinching procedure needs to be done only once, and the chrysanthemum is already capable of taking the necessary shape by itself. Each gardener decides this issue independently, but it should be remembered that additional pinching of the culture will not harm. During the first days after planting, the flower needs shelter from direct sunlight. For shelter, you can use non-woven fabrics that will not touch the leaves of the crop.

Popular varieties

Currently, several classifications of chrysanthemums are used. One, widespread in Asia, and covering mainly Japanese and Chinese varieties, suggests dividing them according to the following characteristics:

the shape and size of the inflorescences;
the shape and size of the bush.

The difference between them is not only morphological - chrysanthemums with different inflorescences differ in terms and nature of flowering, and even in the number of chromosomes. Actually, thanks to this feature, most of the bush hybrids appeared.

In Russia and Europe, perennial varieties of garden chrysanthemums are classified as follows:

By the diameter of the inflorescence and the nature of flowering.

small-flowered (from 2 to 9 cm, bouquet flowering, up to 15 buds can form on each peduncle);
mid-flowered, 10-15 cm, often tied in 4-5 buds;
large-flowered, or single-headed, form one inflorescence on each stem; its diameter can reach 25 cm.

The shape and height of the bush.

tall, low-leafed bushes, up to 1.5 m, require supports;
medium-sized, up to 70 cm. Bushes are more "fluffy", flowering is more abundant;
curbs, up to 50 cm in height;
spherical - one of the novelties of selection. Its peculiarity is the ability to form a neat fluffy bush of a rounded shape, densely dotted with medium-sized inflorescences.

By the shape of the inflorescence.

Pompon - spherical shape, female ligulate flowers predominate;
Anemoid - female petals are large, short and wide, often curved in a boat, collected in 2-3 rows;
Chamomile, single-row or double-row - the inflorescences resemble chamomile due to the wide center of tubular flowers;
Semi-double - several rows of edge "petals" are gathered around a small tubular core;
Terry - female flowers predominate, the central tubular is practically invisible.

The most popular varieties of spray chrysanthemums:

Bacardi is a series of tall, up to 1.5 m, plants. The stems are strong, the leaves are carved, dark green. Inflorescences are medium-sized, 6-7 cm in diameter, chamomile. The central flowers are yellowish green, the outer ones can be white, cream, yellowish or pinkish.
Saba - leaves are dense, with distinct longitudinal grooves. The bush is medium-sized. Burgundy petals with white edging; inflorescences are large, up to 10 cm.
Celebrate - it is distinguished by elegant chamomile yellow inflorescences with a greenish center.
Grand Pink is a chamomile variety with bright pink "petals" and a green heart.
Chrysanthemum Exopolis is a popular double bouquet variety with pinkish inflorescences.
Joy is a white bush chrysanthemum with stuffed chamomile buds.
Stress Purple is an exotic large-flowered variety with an unusual, deep purple hue with a darker heart.
Softon - differs in a pale pink shade of marginal flowers with a greenish-yellow center.
Prada - is distinguished by an unusual combination of purple "petals" with a dark green center.
Chrysanthemum Vip - terry inflorescences of this variety attract attention by the tonal distribution of color - from pale pink, almost white, at the edges, to dense cherry in the center.
Stripes are graceful chamomile inflorescences. The marginal petals are elongated, white, with pink prints.
Romance - terry tonal "chamomile", the color of the outer flowers smoothly passes from pale pink to saturated. The core is greenish-yellow.
Chrysanthemum Santini is a pompom chrysanthemum with bright green petals.
Raisa - bright yellow petals with burgundy prints are in harmony with a wide greenish core.
The crown is a yellow chamomile with a green center. The marginal petals are thin and elongated, which gives the inflorescence a graceful "fluffiness".
Grand Salmon is a large-flowered variety with a rare salmon tinge.
Barca is one of the "stars" of the Dutch selection. Strong, up to 70 cm in height, the stems are crowned with large double inflorescences. The color is in the violet-burgundy spectrum, the center is darker.
Chrysanthemum Pina Colada - snow-white female flowers, bent "boat"; male yellowish.
Copa is a medium-sized densely leafy bush, crowned with an abundance of small bright yellow chamomile inflorescences.
Jordi - semi-double inflorescence, exotic color - yellow, with red prints.
Serenity is a magnificent semi-double variety with unusual, lavender-pink "petals" with fantasy fuchsia touches and a yellow center.
Chrysanthemum Stylist - similar to the previous variety, but with cherry touches across the white field.
Bonita is an early flowering variety. Inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter, snow-white. 8-9 buds are formed on each peduncle.
Stellini - the reed petals of this semi-double variety are elongated and pointed at the edges, which makes it look like an aster. Fantasy color - wide beetroot strokes on a pale pink background.
Memphis dark is a small-flowered chrysanthemum with wide and short dark purple reed petals.
Merlot is one of the popular varieties due to its rare deep red color.
Macaroni - bouquet bloom, inflorescences are small, terry, delicate lilac color.
Chrysanthemum Chic is one of the white chamomile varieties; it is distinguished by a dark green color of the core.
Talita is a Dutch profusely flowering (up to 15 buds on each peduncle) hybrid with two-colored, violet-yellow inflorescences.
Zembla (Baltika) is a series of undersized (up to 65 cm) terry plants of white, yellow, greenish or pink shades.One of the popular varieties is White Baltika.
Bontempi is a red "chamomile" with a yellowish core.
Stalion - undersized (bush up to 35 cm in height) series with yellow, white or lemon inflorescences.
Chrysanthemum Optimist is a new anemone hybrid, small-flowered, with a greenish middle. The base color can be white or pink.
Jordi is a medium-sized, up to 70 cm, densely leafy bush, dotted with unusual inflorescences: elongated ligulate petals, orange, with longitudinal red stripes, the center is green.
Veronica is a stunted bush, up to 50 cm. The inflorescences are terry, white-yellow.
Chrysanthemum Aviator - terry snow-white anemone inflorescences with a green center. The tongues are elongated, bent in the shape of a “boat”.
Spider pink is the highlight of the Chinese selection of recent years. Terry, with long and thin needle-like "petals" of deep pink color.

Watering

Watering a garden low-growing chrysanthemum is necessary often, since these crops are very fond of moisture. In the dry season, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moist and never dries out. For irrigation, it is recommended to use rain or settled water with the addition of a few drops of ammonia, due to which the liquid becomes softer.

Chrysanthemums are undersized globular, photo

Possible problems

Most often, garden stunted chrysanthemums suffer from caterpillar attacks. That is why you should pay attention to the appropriate chemicals, periodically spray the plant with them in order to avoid the invasion of these pests.

If you suddenly find blackened foliage or bare stems on your bush, this indicates that the soil under the plant is excessively moist, and the bush itself has too many inflorescences. All this is a sign of powdery mildew disease. At the first detection of this disease, it is necessary to immediately take measures to eliminate it. For this, damaged foliage and stems are cut off from the bush. Then you need to get rid of the top layer of soil, where the spores of this fungus are located. It is they who harm the culture. The top layer is replaced with a new one. Flowers should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate and soap. To do this, 10 g of copper sulfate must be diluted in 250 ml of water. A solution of vitriol is added to 10 liters of warm water, where soap was previously dissolved. As a rule, this amount of solution is enough for 5-6 sprays with a break of one week.

Please note that the culture may get burned if there are hot days for a long time. You can recognize such a burn by brown or yellowish leaves that have begun to dry out. Such foliage is immediately removed from the shrub.

To protect the chrysanthemum from root rot, Fitosporin is added to the irrigation liquid. It is possible to water a stunted chrysanthemum with such water both for prophylaxis and courses.

Pruning and shaping chrysanthemums

In order for chrysanthemums to form dense, compact bushes, the shoots of the plant can be pinched or slightly shortened to form the plant itself at your discretion. In small-flowered chrysanthemums, pinching is traditionally carried out in the first half of June. Usually, on any chrysanthemum, a double pinch is preferable - first the main, and then the lateral shoots formed after it. Regardless of the type of chrysanthemum, you should not carry out pinching on this plant.

Regular removal of wilted flowers will prolong flowering and keep the bushes neat and attractive.Also, on chrysanthemums, damaged, dry or too contaminated leaves should be removed in a timely manner. Some growers recommend removing the oldest leaves in order to reduce the likelihood of infection and related problems.

If the chrysanthemums are tall, in order to avoid breaking off rather fragile shoots, it is better to install supports in a timely manner and, as the bushes grow, start tying them up.

For the winter, bushes of perennial chrysanthemums are cut off in front of the shelter. The plant does not need to be cut to ground level - the bushes are usually shortened to stumps about 10 cm high.

A bush of tall chrysanthemums, growing without support and correct formation. <>

Chrysanthemum conservation in winter

If you grow perennial chrysanthemums at home, then the question arises as to how to preserve the culture in winter. This is the only moment that requires special attention, as well as strength. There are many varieties of crops that are able to winter quietly in the open field. However, chrysanthemum does not have such a distinctive feature. This plant can survive winter only in a warm southern climate, where the air temperature rarely drops below zero. In most regions, chrysanthemums are dug up in the fall before the onset of severe frosts. And in order for these flowers to stand and delight the eye longer, they must be covered with polyethylene in the evening, in particular, if sharp drops in air temperature are expected at night.

Digging should be carried out before the onset of a strong cold snap. If the upper part of the bush is dry, then this indicates that the culture has retired. To begin with, the plant is cut off, the stems are removed from it, and the roots are placed in a box with soil, sand or sawdust. Such containers are stored in a darkened place where the air temperature should be from -3 to +5 degrees. A cellar would be ideal, but if there is none, then you can use the space in the refrigerator, which is specially designated for vegetables. The ground should not be very wet or dry.

As a rule, at the end of April, the chrysanthemum begins to awaken. At this time, the flower should be exposed to the sun in a warm room without shelter. And if at this time on the street the soil has already warmed up enough, then the chrysanthemum can be safely planted in the garden.

Despite the fact that this plant can be cultivated indoors, it also needs additional winter care. The fact is that the dry air in the apartment will be detrimental to the chrysanthemum. That is why indoor copies are also cropped and placed in the basement. However, you need to make sure that the room is free of mold and mildew. In advance, the plant should be provided with good ventilation. If there are traces of fungi on the floor or on any other surface, then you need to get rid of them, and wash this place with a solution based on copper sulfate or used engine oil.

Chrysanthemums are undersized globular, planting features

Chrysanthemums can be planted both in a flower bed and in garden pots, which will be appropriate in any corner of the garden, on the balcony or in the backyard area.

Time and place of planting low-growing spherical chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, like most other members of the Astrov family, prefer sunny and well-lit areas, protected from drafts and gusty winds. Only in such conditions will the plant be able to develop as favorably as possible, forming beautiful spherical curtains, abundantly strewn with bright flowers. In the shade or even in partial shade, the perennial will "feel" depressed, which will negatively affect its appearance (the shoots will begin to stretch, the plant will begin to bloom less and later).
For planting this flower culture, an area with a close occurrence of groundwater, often flooded areas, and swampy areas is not suitable. In conditions of constantly high humidity, the roots of the plant can rot, therefore, it is important to provide the seedlings with elevated places with an obligatory drainage layer. The best soil for planting "Sunny Flowers" is light, loose and nutritious.
Ball-shaped chrysanthemums need enough space so that the beautiful flowering "balls" of the perennial do not oppress each other or neighboring plants. It is possible to plant the culture in a flower pot or a garden flowerpot, then you should make sure that the chrysanthemum does not stand close to the wall, which may cause the spherical bush to "flatten" and deform.
Chrysanthemums are planted in the spring, when the air and soil have warmed up enough and the threat of return frosts has completely passed. If spring frosts are predicted, temporary shelter for the bushes will be needed. This can be an impromptu agrofibre greenhouse or large plastic bottles with shallow vents. The best time to plant is a cloudy day, as the sun's rays can burn the young leaves of the seedling.

Agrotechnics of planting low-growing spherical chrysanthemums

In the case of planting chrysanthemum rhizomes that were stored in winter, they need to be helped to "wake up" so that they start growing faster. To do this, the roots (a few days before planting) are placed in a shallow container with a moist substrate and left in a well-lit place, for example, on a windowsill. As soon as the first sprout hatches and young roots appear, the plant is ready for planting in open ground.
For planting low-growing chrysanthemums, you can use a commercial potting soil mixture or prepare the substrate yourself. For this, a mixture of garden soil with the addition of vermicompost (20: 1) is ideal.
When planting seedlings in open ground, you must first dig up the area and remove all existing weeds. In the case of poor soil composition, it is recommended to apply additional fertilizers. It can be any non-“aggressive” organic matter (humus, compost) or mineral complexes containing nitrogen and phosphorus. When applying mineral fertilizers, the dosage is reduced by 1.5-2 times compared to that indicated on the package.
For planting chrysanthemums, a shallow pit is prepared, taking into account the superficial occurrence of the root system of the plant. A depth of 40-45 cm is enough. If a decorative pot is used for planting a flower crop, a 5-6-liter container with the obligatory presence of holes (drainage) is sufficient.
A drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay or fine gravel is laid at the bottom of the planting pit (or flowerpot). Coarse river sand or dried crushed eggshells are also suitable as drainage.
After that, a little soil substrate is poured onto the drainage layer, which is well spilled with water. In this form, the planting pit is ready for planting a seedling.
During planting, the roots of the chrysanthemum are carefully straightened so that they do not bend and are freely placed in the planting pit. If one rhizome is planted, it must be completely covered with earth.
After planting the seedlings, the main shoot is pinched, the growing point is removed. This technique allows the culture to quickly form the desired shape of the ball. Many growers prefer another pinching, 20 days after the first, but this procedure is optional.

If several chrysanthemum bushes are planned to be planted on the flowerbed at once, the interval between plants should be at least 30-50 cm.

Features of reproduction by rhizome

The best way to propagate dwarf garden chrysanthemums is by dividing the rhizome. If you want to propagate a flower by seeds, then pay attention to the fact that in this case it will not retain its varietal characteristics.A few years after planting, the plant stops developing, dense shoots are formed on it, and this indicates a loss of decorativeness. This sign is a signal for renewal. It is best to reproduce in the spring when the shrub is ready for planting.

To do this, the root with the emerging leaves is divided into several equal parts. Places of cut should be immediately sprinkled with ash or charcoal to prevent chrysanthemum infestation.

Basic care requirements

To make the plants easier to adapt, they can be sprayed with "Epin". The bush can also be watered with Kornevin. To save young bushes from the first frost, I cover them on top with non-woven material.

Do you think chrysanthemums need regular watering? Yes it is. Probably, the main condition that should be adhered to is watering the flower beds with chrysanthemums. If there is not enough moisture, then the buds fall off before they have time to bloom.

I water it taking into account the fact that bushes with denser and smaller leaves require less water. Chrysanthemums with soft large leaves evaporate more moisture, so it needs to be replenished with abundant watering.

I advise you not to neglect feeding. These plants respond gratefully to complex fertilizers that contain magnesium and potassium. When using organic matter, humates can be used. I use nitrogen-containing products only during the growth of bushes.

Faded buds and those that just wilted need to be removed. Thus, it is possible to extend the flowering time of the bushes. If I plan to get the most beautiful buds, then you can cut off all the shoots growing on the sides of the bush, leaving only the stem and peduncle on it. Then the plant will devote all its efforts to the formation of this flower.

Arrangement of wintering

In order for the plant to overwinter calmly, and there will be abundant flowering again next year, the construction of a shelter is required. After the end of flowering, the bushes need to be cut off almost to ground level, and then cover the rest of the fallen leaves after hilling the ground.

You have probably noticed that plants with large flowers are especially sensitive to winter cold. Therefore, I recommend digging them up and placing them in a container with soil. Then such containers must be lowered into the cellar, where the temperature during the winter will be maintained within about 4-5 degrees. It will be necessary to periodically check the earthen lump for dryness. If the moisture evaporates, additional watering will be required to prevent it from drying out completely.

Dangerous diseases and pests

I noticed that if you carry out regular and proper care of the chrysanthemum, then the disease practically does not affect it. Also, at the same time, they are almost not exposed to the invasion of pests. But still, you have to periodically examine them so as not to miss the onset of such problems.

Of the most dangerous and common problems with chrysanthemums, you can name the following:

Spider mite. It sucks the sap from the plant. It can be easily identified by looking at the back of the sheet. When affected by a tick, it is covered with formations that resemble a cobweb. If the process has already started, then the leaves turn brown or gray, and then disappear. To cope with this phenomenon, plants need to be sprayed with chemicals.
Leaf nematodes. A characteristic feature is the darkening of the leaves between the veins, as well as their deformation. You can cope with the problem by changing the soil and cutting off the damaged parts of the stem and leaves.
Verticillosis. Such a disease affects the plant, entering through the root system. This disease is characterized by yellowing of the foliage, starting from the lower ones. Then it wilts. If the disease is established at an early stage, then it can be dealt with.It is enough to carry out its processing with biological products.
Powdery mildew. Such a problem with a plant is characterized by a whitish bloom on the buds and leaves. Such areas should be immediately cut off, and the bush should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.

I think avid florists have their own experience in this regard. I advise you to share your comments. It is possible that together it will be possible to find the best way so that stunted chrysanthemums always bloom violently on the site.

Features of propagation by cuttings

If you need several shoots at once, then it is best to use the propagation method by cuttings. Before the culture goes into color, you need to cut off the densest branches and lower them into wet sand or settled water. After a few days, these cuttings should form new roots, after which they can be transplanted into prepared fertile soil. Thanks to this method, the multiflora variety reproduces well. It is allowed to replant it in early autumn or summer. However, it is important to allow time for the plant to take root in the soil before the first drops in air temperature. You can also immediately prepare chrysanthemums in the house in special pots or flowerpots.

Chrysanthemums are undersized globular, methods of reproduction

Chrysanthemums reproduce in several ways: part of the rhizome, cuttings and dividing the bush. The seed method of reproduction of spherical chrysanthemums is used extremely rarely, due to the laboriousness of the process and the possible loss of varietal characteristics.

Dividing the bush - a simple breeding method, which is usually used when planting chrysanthemum bushes after winter. The bush is divided into equal parts, which are planted separately in a permanent place.
Rhizome division partly allows you to rejuvenate an adult chrysanthemum bush and get several daughter plants. The procedure is carried out in the spring, after wintering. Places of large cuts on the roots are sprinkled with coal or ash to avoid infection and decay.
Cuttings carried out before flowering. At the same time, the densest shoots (up to 10-15 cm long) are cut from the plant and left in water or wet sand to form roots. Then the cuttings are transplanted into a nutritious and loose soil substrate.

Low-growing spherical chrysanthemums in landscape design

Given the spectacular appearance of spherical chrysanthemums, this plant is widely used in landscape designs of any complexity.

Low-growing chrysanthemums "balls" are planted in the foreground, taking into account the miniature size of the plant.
Often, garden designers combine plantings of different varieties of chrysanthemums, making up colorful and bright compositions.
This variety of chrysanthemums looks great against the background of any conifers, along with marigolds, representatives of cereals and other flowering crops.
Dense blooming "balls" look spectacular as natural borders for paths or beds.

Spherical chrysanthemums look beautiful in garden pots, on terraces, balconies and spacious rooms.

In general, growing spherical low-growing chrysanthemums is not difficult. The main condition is to provide the perennial with acceptable wintering conditions.

Chrysanthemums in the flowerbed

These perennial undersized crops are a favorite among many gardeners for many reasons. These chrysanthemums are used in various fields of landscape design and gardening due to the relative ease of growing and care. In addition, the bushes are perfectly combined with different colors and look advantageous in almost all flower beds. However, it is worth remembering that undersized varieties still look better with plants of about the same height. But every flower bed can be called a place for experimentation.More confident gardeners can safely try to plant lines of chrysanthemums one after another in height, putting smaller varieties forward, or experiment with the shades of the bushes, creating whole gradients.

Multiflora will look very beneficial with evergreen trees. And the round ball, as it were, smooths out the shape of thorny crops, giving a unique liveliness, as well as making the look more interesting. Low-growing varieties can be used when drawing the border of a certain area, road, garden or border. There are about 4000 shades of this culture, that is, you can safely turn on your imagination. A composition of bright green grass and yellow or white chrysanthemums will be very advantageous. Do not be afraid of the neighborhood of different types of flowers, as bright chrysanthemums are ideally combined with any of the planted plants.

With the arrival of autumn, you will surely be delighted with a low-growing chrysanthemum of late flowering in a rich scarlet and pink hue. When most of the varieties have already faded at this time and are preparing for wintering, the riot of colors of such crops will never go unnoticed.

Description and characteristics

Chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum) belong to the Asteraceae family. This flower appeared in the Canary Islands, from where it spread throughout the world.

It is very difficult to give a general description of all existing varieties of chrysanthemums, since flowers differ in size, shape of inflorescences, and colors.

Perennial bush flowers of chrysanthemums from among the low-growing ones do not exceed a height of 40 cm, but there are also tall varieties that reach two or more meters.

By the diameter of the flowers, plants of this species are small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered. The inflorescence can be simple, semi-double or double. The color scheme is very diverse.

The stems of the shrubs are covered with leaves of various shades of green.

The popularity of chrysanthemums is due to their unpretentiousness to the conditions. Most varieties are frost-resistant and do not require special care. At the same time, the plants look attractive and have been decorating gardens and plots for several years. They also often make up flower arrangements for sale. A well-known combination is spray roses and chrysanthemums - bouquets of these flowers are in great demand.

Bouquets of spray chrysanthemums, photo:

Fertilizer recipe for garden chrysanthemums

To prepare a healthy top dressing, you need to take a large container and pour two buckets of mullein or one bucket of chicken droppings into it. Then fill it with water and stir well. Leave the resulting solution in this form for three days.

Prepare the second half of the fertilizer separately. Mix a liter of concentrated infusion with 10 liters of water. Finally, combine both parts of the mixture and mix thoroughly. For feeding, each plant needs a liter of such a solution, which should be poured under the root. Just before that, be sure to moisten the soil.

Soil preparation and site

A place for chrysanthemums is chosen sunny, fully illuminated throughout the day. Even a little shading will inevitably affect flowering, and plant stems will elongate. It is necessary to provide for protection from the wind. The site should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except for heavy clay;
it is good to let water and air pass through;
have a slightly acidic reaction, therefore it is useful to add peat to the planting pit;
be fertile - flowering will be poor on lean soils.

Digging for each square. m make up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils, sand is added for drainage.

You can not bring fresh manure under the chrysanthemums - the plants do not tolerate it.

Pest and disease control

Chrysanthemums can hardly be called hardy crops.Pests and diseases often appear on them, even seemingly under optimal conditions. It all depends a lot on luck and weather.

Most often, perennial chrysanthemums are found gray rot, mold and powdery mildew. Fight diseases with systemic fungicides.

Problems in many potted or varietal chrysanthemums are also caused by nematodes, which can only be fought by transplanting with division or destruction of plants, and in the garden - with the subsequent refusal to grow chrysanthemums for 2 to 3 years in the affected area.

Snails, slugs, ticks, aphids and even earwigs love the greens of chrysanthemums. To protect against slugs, it is better to take preventive measures in a timely manner. But with insects it is worth fighting immediately with insecticides.

The history of the emergence of a flower

Dry chrysanthemums
Historians do not know exactly when chrysanthemums appeared. One of the first mentions of it was in the 6th century BC. however, only wild chrysanthemums existed at that time. It is believed that chrysanthemums were common in Southeast Asia. These flowers have been used for decorative and pharmaceutical purposes.

Already in the IV century BC. this flower became famous in Japan. It came to Europe only at the end of the 17th century. They were brought to Holland. It was European botanists who began to actively breed new species. Already in 1925, an international exhibition dedicated only to this flower was opened.

During this exhibition, more than 50 species of chrysanthemums were presented, which were bred by selection in various countries.

Application in landscape

Chrysanthemums are very often used to decorate garden plots, since this plant is quite unpretentious, spectacular and pleases with its flowers for quite a long time. It can serve as a single or group decoration. Looks perfect in combination with various colors and compositions, which allows others to enjoy the most unpredictable and beautiful flower beds.

Very often they are grown in pots of several varieties, in order to then place these blooming islands of joy everywhere.

Asters, hibiscus, astilbe and many other flowers will look great next to the autumn queen, who decorate terraces, flower beds, meadows and lawns. This beauty will easily give even the most ordinary site an original look that you will remember for a long time.

Interestingly, young flowers can still be eaten. There is a special variety of lettuce chrysanthemum, which has edible twigs and leaves.

The main thing that needs to be considered by both the amateur florist and the professional is the choice of the variety. If you choose a type of chrysanthemum for your region and take care of it in a timely manner and correctly, then it will not be difficult to grow it.

Persistent and hardy chrysanthemums: growing and caring for the garden

You need to understand that chrysanthemum, the care of which we will discuss in the garden today, was brought to us a long time ago from the East. The ancient Chinese and Japanese gave this flower some mystical meaning, it was considered a symbol of the sun, joy and optimism. Indeed, how can you not believe the legends, at least once seeing the magnificent pom-poms of different-colored buds, delighting with their bitter-tart smell, as well as long flowering. Among experienced florists, as well as professional breeders, it is customary to divide all types and types of chrysanthemums into several main subcategories, in order to simplify the selection of a suitable flower for your own plot.

Worth knowing

There is simply a tremendous number of the most diverse varieties of chrysanthemums, which can differ not only in color, but also in the size of the inflorescences, the height of the bushes, and so on. For example, there are species that are intended solely for cutting and making bouquets.They bloom early enough, but stop flowering rather quickly.

Chrysanthemums of simple form, which are most often found in our gardens and flower gardens.
Curly and double chrysanthemums, already more "civilized" varieties, bred artificially.
Large-flowered plants that are best suited for a wide variety of compositions and bouquets.

How to keep chrysanthemums in winter

Heat-loving large-flowered varieties are afraid of frost and do not disappear in winter. Such varieties are usually dug out of the ground before frost (choosing uterine bushes), placed in wooden boxes and stored in a cool room with a temperature of 2-6 degrees until spring.

Occasionally, chrysanthemums are watered to keep the clod of earth moist.

Landing

The soil in the flower beds for chrysanthemums must be prepared in advance: if it is heavy, clayey, add sand, humus, peat, you can measure it with buckets, take everything in equal parts. If the soil is light sandy, add loam, sod land and humus. Peat soils require serious improvement - they are poor and acidic, loam or soddy soil and humus must be introduced.

All components introduced to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile layer of the earth should be less than 40 cm.

If you have a site in a lowland or on a slope, before filling the beds at the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of gravel drainage.

Another important indicator of soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can severely limit plant growth, weaken the root system, and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer an acidity of about 6.5, categorically not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower (on saline soil) add ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

For deoxidizing the soil for chrysanthemums, dolomite limestone is preferred because it contains magnesium and other trace amounts of nutrients. Slaked lime is not desirable - it very quickly gives a reaction to a change in acidity and, when combined with mineral fertilizers, blocks the available phosphorus.

Chrysanthemums obtained from dividing an old bush, container chrysanthemums bought in a nursery, or rooted cuttings, are planted in rows depending on the size of the bushes: at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, low and medium-sized varieties, 45-50 cm - large-growing varieties.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that their flowering and compliance with varietal characteristics can be seen. They are supplied in pots and therefore need replanting. But in the fall, it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant gives all its strength to flowering, and there simply will not be any left for rooting. The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring. In the southern regions it is held at the end of April or in May, while in the northern regions it will have to wait until the end of the return spring frosts.

Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, at the bottom of which you need to put drainage.
A handful of humus is added to each hole and the soil is shed well. Chrysanthemums are not buried during planting.
The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
It is necessary to provide a support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied.

Why does not it bloom

It is not only diseases or parasites that are responsible for the fact that the chrysanthemum does not bloom. If for some reason there are still no flowers, the reason may be as follows:

Bad light;
Lack or excess of fertilizer;
Lack of transplant;
Fully unsecured rest period.

Chrysanthemum is popular everywhere: at dachas in the Moscow region, and in Siberia and the Urals. This flower is not capricious, but it requires a certain amount of attention. With due care, this flora will surely delight its owners with stunningly beautiful flowering, it will be strong and healthy.

Loosening the soil

Chrysanthemums can be mulched, stabilizing the condition of the soil and reducing the number of procedures for loosening it. But more often a standard approach is used for chrysanthemums - during the removal of weeds, loosening the soil and not creating a layer of mulch. For chrysanthemums, aeration should be carried out at a shallow depth, trying to avoid the risk of contact with roots.

The best option is to combine loosening during active growth with mulching during flowering. Loosening is carried out in spring and early summer, and then instead of them a layer of mulch is created with a height of 6-8 cm, which is stored until next spring. For mulching chrysanthemums, you can use humus, peat and other materials.

The soil for potted chrysanthemums is loosened 2-3 times over the summer.