April is the last spring month when you can have time to sow flowers for seedlings. Although, if you are a resident of a region with a relatively moderate climate (not harsh), then in the second half or end of the month you can completely sow flower seeds directly into open ground (or for seedlings in a greenhouse under a film, a greenhouse). Another thing is, if the weather is still cold and even snowy, then you will have to wait for May.
Okay, let's get to the point, more precisely to the list of flowers that can be sown in April for seedlings and / or in open ground (greenhouse).
By the way! The site also has an article on how what vegetables and herbs can be planted in April.
What to plant for seedlings in January?
Despite the short daylight hours, the first month of the year is usually considered the start of the seedling growing season. Ornamental plants with the longest growing season should be sown as early as possible so that they can bloom at their usual time.
Crops that are sown for seedlings in January:
Carnation Shabo
| Sowing dates | all january |
| Sowing depth | 3 mm, sprinkled with calcined sand |
| The soil | standard neutral |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 16-18 degrees, after germination - 12-15 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 10 days |
| Dive | double (on the second and fourth pair of leaves) |
| Hardening | it is better to start early, as soon as the weather is warm |
| Landing in the soil | early May |
| Landing distance | 20-30 cm |
| Difficulties | tendency to illness, stretching, need to pinch |
Read our detailed material: "Growing Shabo carnations from seeds"
Begonias
| Sowing dates | early January and even December |
| Sowing depth | superficially or in the snow |
| The soil | non-acidic standard, sieved |
| Lighting | Bright |
| Temperature | as high as possible, watering with warm water is desirable |
| Seedlings | 12-14 days |
| Dive | threefold (2-3 leaves, in a month and at the end of April) |
| Hardening | 7-10 days |
| Landing in the soil | May June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | fragile leaves, need short daylight hours |
Perennials whose seeds are laid in January for preliminary stratification:
- clematis;
- gentian;
- aquilegia;
- perennial viols;
- bells;
- irises;
- spring bulbous;
- lavender;
- delphinium;
- primroses;
- swimsuit;
- routine;
- jeffersonia;
- break
It is also worth sowing perennials this month, which prefer a later sowing, but need scarification. It is better to have time to sow Coleus in January if you want to decorate your flower beds and flower beds with bright leaves.
Supplementary lighting in January is desirable for any seedlings. It is necessary to closely monitor the seedlings and immediately take action at the slightest sign of lack of light.
Care that seedlings need in January:
- Daily airing of crops - removing film or glass for a while.
- Very gentle moistening: spray young seedlings carefully, only when the soil dries up, control so that the soil moisture is light but constant.
- Do not feed this month.
- Do not rush to dive: stick to deadlines, but watch the plants themselves, let them grow stronger and adapt.
Other chores that are important not to forget about:
- Continue to prepare substrate for sowing seeds and diving seedlings.
- Disinfect the soil - heat it up, spill it with boiling water - in advance.
- Take the time to prepare your seedling containers.
- Keep the area where you place the seed containers clean.
- Organize your seeding tools and equipment to make your work easier.
Caring for perennials and bulbs
Fresh plantings of bulbs, if you have not used special baskets to protect against mice and other rodents, it is better to additionally protect in November. Set up special traps or spread out the sent food. And if it snows, re-place the baits on the ground, masking them with an adjacent cover on top.
New perennial plants planted in autumn also need additional protection: be guided by the requirements of each specific species, but at least protect the plantings with a layer of compost or peat mulch, which will help the plants better withstand temperature extremes and create more stable conditions.
Perennials in flower beds that you do not want to leave to decorate the winter garden, which do not have spectacular inflorescences or fruits, in November, cut to a height of 10-15 cm.
What to plant for seedlings in February
Active planting for seedlings starts in February. And although most of the summer people are still expecting an increase in daylight hours, this month you must not forget to sow some of the main favorites among the flowering crops. Good preparation in February ensures that your workload will decrease in March.
Crops that are sown for seedlings in February:
Lobelia
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | superficially mixed with sand |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 22-25 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 10 days |
| Dive | double |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | third decade of May - first decade of June |
| Landing distance | 15 cm |
| Difficulties | slow growth of seedlings |
Read our detailed material: "Growing lobelia from seeds"
Petunia
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | superficially mixed with sand |
| The soil | light sifted |
| Lighting | additional lighting is desirable |
| Temperature | 20-23 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 5-7 days |
| Dive | after the release of the second sheet |
| Hardening | preferably from April until disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | second half of May |
| Landing distance | from 15 for multi-flowered to 30 for ampelous |
| Difficulties | prone to "black leg", miniature seedlings |
Read our detailed material: "About growing petunia seedlings in detail."
Fuchsia
| Sowing dates | early February |
| Sowing depth | 1 cm, by the piece |
| The soil | Standard |
| Lighting | bright, with supplementary lighting if possible |
| Temperature | 24-25 degrees |
| Seedlings | 10-15 days |
| Dive | do not conduct |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | the end of May |
| Landing distance | 25-30 cm (in balcony containers - twice as thick) |
| Difficulties | needs to be formed |
Pelargonium
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | peat or peat with sand |
| Lighting | Bright |
| Temperature | standard room |
| Seedlings | in 2-3 weeks |
| Dive | at the stage of 2-3 leaves |
| Hardening | preferably from April until disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | May |
| Landing distance | 10-25 cm |
| Difficulties | does not arise |
Balsam
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | 3 mm (covered with calcined sand) |
| The soil | Standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 23 degrees |
| Seedlings | Up to 3-4 weeks |
| Dive | after the appearance of the second pair of leaves in individual pots |
| Hardening | from the end of April |
| Landing in the soil | third decade of May - first decade of June |
| Landing distance | 25-30 cm |
| Difficulties | moisture-loving and tendency to fungal diseases |
Heliotrope
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | Standard |
| Lighting | bright standard |
| Temperature | 22-23 degrees |
| Seedlings | 3-4 weeks |
| Dive | at the stage of 5-6 leaves |
| Hardening | week before landing |
| Landing in the soil | end of May - June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | heterogeneous bushes and small flowering (compared to cuttings) |
Sage brilliant
| Sowing dates | all February |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | Universal |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | standard room |
| Seedlings | 10-15 days |
| Dive | double (2-3 and 5-6 leaves) |
| Hardening | the longer the better |
| Landing in the soil | the beginning of June |
| Landing distance | 20-25 cm |
| Difficulties | weak seedlings in the absence of a second pick |
In February, you can sow lavender and other perennials for seedlings, the seeds of which have completed stratification or do not need it.
Throughout the month, you can continue sowing "January" plants - Shabo carnations, coleus and flowering begonias.
Supplementary lighting in February is desirable for any seedlings. It is advisable to compensate for the still insufficient amount of natural light by installing additional lamps, extending daylight hours or increasing lighting intensity. It is necessary to continue to observe the seedlings and adjust the lighting if there are signs of stretching.
Care that seedlings sown in January will need:
- Airing the seed containers daily.
- Careful adaptation of seedlings to non-greenhouse conditions or temperature changes (it is better to stretch the process of removing glass or film for several days).
- Sprinkling the substrate to the elongated seedlings (along with supplementary lighting will help to avoid many problems).
- Gentle wetting by spraying for seedlings. For strong January seedlings that have passed a dive, you can switch to gentle drip or classic watering.
- Apply the first feeding for the seedlings that have passed the dive no earlier than a week after the diving procedure.
- Pinch the shoots to thicken the letniks after 5-6 leaves have been released.
Other chores that are important not to forget about:
- Take care of the timely replenishment of the substrate stock and its preliminary processing.
- Continue to prepare dive containers and equipment in advance.
- Prepare a place for exposing seedlings after diving, think over its placement and methods of rational use of the window sill area.
- Take some time to your crops diary, do not be lazy to write down the information, because in the rush of spring, you can easily forget about something important.
- Prepare tags, tags, or other means to identify the variety and type of plants in advance so that you do not lose sight of anything in the coming months and does not waste valuable time later.
Seedlings of annual and perennial flowers. <>
Benefits of planting flowers in autumn
What perennial flowers can be planted in the fall?
Delphinium
Delphinium can live for a maximum of 10 years without a change. The first and second weeks of September are fine. Do not delay the transplant so that the plant has time to take root before the first frost occurs.
Brunner
Best planted in early September, Brunner is transplanted on a cool day or evening. The bush is divided in such a way that all of them have a bud of future growth, and placed in the holes. After that, planting you need to water the plant well.
Astilba
Astilba. Best planted in early September. Before planting, the soil is fertilized with compost, decomposed peat and rotten manure (2 buckets per square meter). The planted astilbe bushes must be insulated by mulching with sawdust or bark.
What to plant for seedlings in March
The first calendar month of spring is definitely the main month for sowing almost all ornamental plants. There is so much to do in March that it's easy to forget about the little things. Active crops should not distract from the care of seedlings and constant monitoring of their condition.
Crops that are sown for seedlings in March with pre-treatment of seeds:
Castor oil plant
| Seed treatment | soaking for 1 day |
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | 1-6 cm, immediately into large pots |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | from 12 degrees, standard room |
| Seedlings | from 8-14 days |
| Dive | if necessary transferred into large pots |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | third decade of May - first decade of June |
| Landing distance | 1-3 m |
| Difficulties | prone to "sulfur leg", you need to remove the peel from the cotyledon leaves, very fast growth |
Dahlia
| Seed treatment | soaking for 10 minutes in a solution of aloe juice, fungicide or potassium permanganate |
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | indoor, for germination, preferably above 25 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 5 days |
| Dive | after 1.5-2 weeks, preferably in peat pots or tablets |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | the beginning of June |
| Landing distance | from 30 cm |
| Difficulties | susceptible to disease |
Crops sown this month without seed treatment:
Violets
| Sowing dates | first decade or all of March |
| Sowing depth | 3-6 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 22-25 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 2 weeks |
| Dive | after the appearance of the second sheet |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | in May |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | no, resistant plants, you can grow seedlings even at 10 degrees; plants tolerate transplantation well, even with flowering ones |
Phlox Drummond
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | 1-2 mm |
| The soil | light sifted |
| Lighting | germination in shade, after germination - bright |
| Temperature | 18-21 degrees after sowing and cool (about 15 degrees) for germination |
| Seedlings | about 1 week |
| Dive | 2-3 weeks after germination |
| Hardening | from the end of April |
| Landing in the soil | May |
| Landing distance | 12-25 cm |
| Difficulties | prone to "black leg", you need to pinch after the appearance of 4-5 leaves |
Ornamental cabbage
| Sowing dates | second half of March |
| Sowing depth | 1 cm, in small pots or cells of 2 seeds |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 18-20 degrees, then it is desirable to lower it to 12-16 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 2 days |
| Dive | after the appearance of 5-6 leaves |
| Hardening | in 2 weeks |
| Landing in the soil | late April and May |
| Landing distance | 50-60 cm |
| Difficulties | prone to black leg (watering before and after sowing, but then only with significant drying out) |
Asters
| Sowing dates | from mid-March |
| Sowing depth | 0.5 cm |
| The soil | standard nutritional |
| Lighting | additional lighting is desirable |
| Temperature | 18-20 degrees, then - not lower than 15 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 8-15 days |
| Dive | after the formation of the first pair of true leaves |
| Hardening | preferably from April until disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | third decade of May or early June |
| Landing distance | from 10 cm for low, up to 40 cm for high grades |
| Difficulties | subject to "black leg", does not tolerate the deepening of the growth point |
Verbena
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | superficially, on the sand |
| The soil | sandy |
| Lighting | bright standard |
| Temperature | from 20 degrees, likes bottom heating |
| Seedlings | from 5-7 days |
| Dive | after the release of the second sheet |
| Hardening | preferably from April until disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | second half of May, June |
| Landing distance | 20-35 cm |
| Difficulties | need stable humidity |
Ageratum
| Sowing dates | the end of March |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room |
| Seedlings | 14 days |
| Dive | double, 1 week and 3 weeks after germination |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | variation in colors, sensitivity to dampness and stagnant air |
Lobularia
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm, rarely |
| The soil | universal |
| Lighting | bright |
| Temperature | coolness or room rates |
| Seedlings | 4-10 days |
| Dive | at the stage of 2 leaves, with rare sowing, do not carry out |
| Hardening | May |
| Landing in the soil | 15-20 cm |
| Landing distance | from 15 cm for multi-flowered, up to 30 cm for ampelous |
| Difficulties | vulnerability to powdery mildew in dense crops |
Celosia
| Sowing dates | the end of March |
| Sowing depth | 5-7 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room indicators |
| Seedlings | from 12 days |
| Dive | double, first in boxes, then in individual containers |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | late May-early June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | sensitivity to waterlogging |
Scented tobacco
| Sowing dates | all March |
| Sowing depth | superficially, without covering |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | bright |
| Temperature | standard room |
| Seedlings | 10-12 days |
| Dive | double (second sheet and after 2 weeks) |
| Hardening | 1 Week |
| Landing in the soil | May |
| Landing distance | 20-30 cm |
| Difficulties | no, resistant plants |
Also in March, snapdragons, levkoy, coleus, kobei, herbal cloves, venidium, alissum, asarin, brachycoma, glue, penstemon are sown on seedlings.
Plants that can continue to be sown in March:
- lobelia (first decade);
- petunia (first and second decade);
- pelargonium;
- other annuals of the February sowing, the flowering of which they want to postpone to a later date.
Perennials that prefer March sowing: Iberis, Sycamore, Echinacea and all plants in which the stratification period ends in March.
In the southern regions, in April, you can start planting seedlings of annuals and perennials in the soil, with the exception of the most thermophilic species.
Additional lighting in March is desirable, but not required. If the weather does not spoil sunny days, and the seedlings show signs of insufficient lighting, then it is better to start supplementing the plants in a timely manner. It is advisable to pay special attention to this issue at the beginning of the month.
Care that seedlings sown in January will need:
- Daily airing of seedlings under glass or foil.
- Gentle watering with control of soil moisture. If you accidentally overflow, do not hesitate and immediately take measures to sand the substrate, reduce soil moisture.
- Top dressing to strengthen seedlings and stimulate growth (carried out only after full adaptation of the cut plants).
- Pinching and other shaping methods for bushy plants.
- Sprinkling soil when pulling seedlings or signs of compaction.
- Closely examining plants and responding to the slightest signs of problems detected.
Other chores that are important not to forget about:
- Continue preparing the substrate and containers in your spare time.
- Do not forget to organize the information and carefully note the procedures performed.
- Prepare a place on the balcony or where you plan to take the seedlings out on warm days for stabbing.
- Start preparing containers and means of transporting seedlings to the site, think over what and how you will transport it.
Seedlings of marigolds. <>
We start monitoring the stored bulbs and root tubers
Bulbous and corms dug out for the winter from this month need to be constantly inspected. At least with a frequency of 2-3 weeks, check the air humidity and temperature in the room where stocks of planting material are stored, and also inspect the plants for signs of damage and rot.
Throw away damaged bulbs immediately, ventilate the area to lower the temperature, or arrange containers of lime to reduce humidity.
If you have not yet had time to put things in order in the seed fund, be sure to set aside a day for inventory.Sort out new seeds, sift, put them in bags and containers, sign; check the expiration dates for the old ones.
Zinnia
| Seed treatment | soaking before pecking (in a damp cloth) |
| Sowing dates | first half of April |
| Sowing depth | 1 cm, directly into peat pots or individual cells |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 22-24 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 2-3 days when soaking |
| Dive | do not carry out, when the seedlings are pulled out, they are buried |
| Hardening | at the end of May, at least 10 days |
| Landing in the soil | first half of June |
| Landing distance | 30-35 cm |
| Difficulties | does not like transplants, adventitious roots are easily injured |
Marigold
| Seed treatment | like pre-germination on a damp cloth |
| Sowing dates | early April |
| Sowing depth | 0.5-1 cm, not thick |
| The soil | standard, drainage is laid on the bottom of the containers |
| Lighting | standard bright, shade until shoots appear |
| Temperature | 22-25 degrees before germination and 18-22 degrees for seedlings |
| Seedlings | from 3-7 days |
| Dive | only thickened seedlings, buried to the cotyledons |
| Hardening | 10 days before disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | end of May - beginning of June, with a depth of several centimeters |
| Landing distance | from 20 to 40 cm |
| Difficulties | when thickened, suffers from a black leg |
Basilist
| Seed treatment | requires stratification within 1 month |
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room |
| Seedlings | from 7 days |
| Dive | when the second pair of leaves appears |
| Hardening | week before landing |
| Landing in the soil | June |
| Landing distance | 40 cm |
| Difficulties | blooms in the second year |
Morning glory
| Seed treatment | soaking for 1 knock with piercing of non-swollen seeds with a needle |
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 18 degrees |
| Seedlings | 6-14 days |
| Dive | double, with full preservation of the earthen coma, in large pots |
| Hardening | week before landing |
| Landing in the soil | end of May-June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | you need to install a support, does not tolerate a transplant |
Read our detailed material: "Growing morning glory from seeds"
Crops that are sown for seedlings in April without pre-seed treatment:
Cochia
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | superficially, slightly pressing |
| The soil | nutritious standard |
| Lighting | as bright as possible, but diffused |
| Temperature | 18-23 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 7 days |
| Dive | after growing up to 5-7 cm |
| Hardening | a week before disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | May, when kochii grow to 15-20 cm |
| Landing distance | 35-40 cm |
| Difficulties | need stable moisture, easy to stretch, afraid of root injuries |
Gelichrizum
| Sowing dates | first half of April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm, straight into pots |
| The soil | light sifted |
| Lighting | bright |
| Temperature | room |
| Seedlings | from 5 days |
| Dive | do not conduct |
| Hardening | week before disembarkation |
| Landing in the soil | end of May - June |
| Landing distance | 25-30 cm |
| Difficulties | afraid of root injuries |
Scabious
| Sowing dates | early April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | 16-18 degrees |
| Seedlings | from 8 to 25 days for different species |
| Dive | after the appearance of the second pair of leaves |
| Hardening | in two weeks |
| Landing in the soil | the beginning of June |
| Landing distance | 25-30 cm |
| Difficulties | slow growth of seedlings |
Xerantemum
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard, can be directly into peat tablets |
| Lighting | bright diffused |
| Temperature | middle room |
| Seedlings | from 7 days |
| Dive | when the third leaf appears, 3 pieces in medium-sized pots |
| Hardening | 2 weeks before landing |
| Landing in the soil | late May or early June |
| Landing distance | 25 cm |
| Difficulties | very afraid of transplants |
Cotton wool
| Sowing dates | early April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room |
| Seedlings | 10-15 days |
| Dive | at the stage of the second pair of leaves |
| Hardening | 10-14 days |
| Landing in the soil | At the beginning of June |
| Landing distance | 30-50 cm |
| Difficulties | no, hardy and simple plant |
Amaranth
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | up to 1 cm |
| The soil | universal, can be sown in a greenhouse |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room, not lower than 15 degrees |
| Seedlings | 4-5 days |
| Dive | after the appearance of the second leaf in peat pots or double |
| Hardening | week before landing |
| Landing in the soil | end of May-June |
| Landing distance | 35-50 cm |
| Difficulties | afraid of root injuries |
Helipterum
| Sowing dates | second half of April |
| Sowing depth | 3-5 mm |
| The soil | standard, sown in large boxes |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room |
| Seedlings | from 5 days |
| Dive | after 1-2 leaves in peat pots |
| Hardening | from 1 week |
| Landing in the soil | third decade of May |
| Landing distance | 15 cm |
| Difficulties | poorly tolerates transplantation and root injuries |
Godezia
| Sowing dates | all April |
| Sowing depth | 3-7 mm |
| The soil | light sifted |
| Lighting | standard bright |
| Temperature | room or greenhouse |
| Seedlings | 2 weeks |
| Dive | after the appearance of the second pair of leaves in pots of 3-4 plants |
| Hardening | 1 week before landing |
| Landing in the soil | second half of May - June |
| Landing distance | 15-20 cm |
| Difficulties | very afraid of transplants |
Plants that can continue to be sown in April:
- asters (first decade);
- dahlias (beginning of the month);
- letniki, whose flowering they want to delay until the second half of the season.
Supplementary lighting in April for seedlings of ornamental plants, as a rule, is not needed. The exception is extremely unfavorable cloudy weather, from which young seedlings may suffer. For them, when pulling, it is better to organize additional lighting.
Care that seedlings need in April:
- Daily removal of film or glass from crops.
- Start of active watering for growing seedlings (but you still need to control the moisture content of the soil and focus on the rate of its drying). Gentle moisturizing of young seedlings continues this month.
- Top dressing for cut plants and weakened seedlings.
- Accurate ventilation of the premises and increase the access of seedlings to fresh air.
- The first hardening procedures, taking out the seedlings of the first sown plants to fresh air on warm days (start with a few hours, and then leave the plants for an increasing period until night temperatures allow the plants to remain outdoors constantly).
- Continuation of formation for plants with bushy growth and a large number of shoots.
Other chores that are important not to forget about:
- Keep the seedling areas clean.
- Make sure there is enough soil and containers to cut all the plants.
- Organize convenient ways to carry the seedlings to fresh air, think about their movement and placement.
- Keep an eye on the weather forecast and temperature readings so that you don't miss the opportunity to start hardening early.
Dahlia seedlings
When to buy planting material
When is the best time to buy flower seeds
In winter, the choice of seeds in flower shops is much wider than at any other time. You can also purchase seeds through a specialized online store, having previously found out how many years it has existed and inquired about its reputation. Give preference to the store with more experience and experience in the market.
Do not buy seeds from those traders for whom they are only an accompanying product - in such a place you will not receive the information you need, or a reliable guarantee.But the main thing is not where and when you buy a bag of seeds, but what is the shelf life of these seeds and the availability of recommendations for growing flowers on the bag.
When to buy flower bulbs and seedlings
It is best to purchase planting material just before planting it, but this is not always possible. Summer bulbs and tubers are usually sold at the end of winter, so consider where and how you will store them before planting. It is best to place them in peat or sand and keep them at or below 7 ºC in a basement or refrigerator. Better yet, plant the bulbs in a container in order to transfer them to the open ground when planting time comes.
Never buy bulbs of spring-flowering crops in the spring - daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses and tulips, as there is a high probability that they have been stored in the warehouse since autumn, which means that their shelf life has already expired, although by the appearance of the bulbs this may not define.
Rose seedlings usually go on sale in February and should be stored in a cellar or refrigerator at freezing temperatures until planting. On occasion, the purchased rhizome perennials are best placed for storage in the refrigerator. It is preferable to buy peony planting material in late summer - early autumn, but it goes on sale, as a rule, in late winter or spring. Before buying such material, carefully examine it for the presence of mold or rot on the roots, since it could have been stored incorrectly before sale, and if you nevertheless decided to buy peony seedlings, then pickle their roots for half an hour in a fungicide solution or in a very strong one, an almost black solution of potassium permanganate. Then store the seedlings at about 0 ºC.
As you understand, it is far from always possible to acquire the necessary seeds or seedlings immediately before planting, so it is very important to know how to properly store the planting material.
If you want your flower garden to remain the same beautiful for the next season? Check out the tips from experienced gardeners in this article: Many plants get along well both when planted in fall and spring. But there are also those plants that do not develop well during spring planting.
What to plant for seedlings in May
May is the month when most plants go through the hardening procedure and finally get the opportunity to take their place in the garden. True, active planting for most plants is possible only in the second half of May. In many ways, this month's work depends on the weather and its whims. A personalized approach is the best guarantee that you will not lose your seedlings through negligence.
Crops that are planted in open soil in May in the middle lane:
- cloves Shabo, levkoy, cineraria, sweet peas, all types of violets, as well as other annuals that belong to cold-resistant crops;
- seedlings of herbaceous perennials, cereals and other perennial plants;
- seedlings of herbs and ground cover;
- plants for potted gardens, containers, ampels.
Crops that are planted in open soil in May in the southern regions:
- all decorative annuals;
- all decorative perennials.
Care that seedlings need in May:
- Reduce watering, do not apply fertilizer to prepare plants for planting (but do not deviate from individual plant recommendations).
- Start or continue hardening the seedlings by taking them out into the open air, and in warm weather, leaving them there even overnight, about 10-12 days before planting in the soil. In the third decade of the month, start hardening the seedlings of heat-loving ornamental plants that you plan to plant in June. By this time, they should be outdoors. Watch out for recurrent frosts and on days of nighttime cold snaps, bring the plants indoors.
- Provide shading and stable soil moisture for the ornamental plants planted in the ground.
Since most of the seedlings must be transported to the site this month, do not ignore the organizational hassle and think about transportation and carrying in advance. Make sure you have enough pallets and shipping boxes, research how many plants you can transport at one time, and set up a schedule. The better you prepare, the easier it will be to deal with any problems.
Do not forget that the seedling planting sites need to be prepared in advance. Improve the soil in time, apply organic and mineral fertilizers, take care of the preparation of drainage materials. Store tools and utensils so that at a convenient moment you do not waste extra energy and time searching.
Seedling of asters.
What to plant for seedlings in June
In June, biennials begin to sow seedlings (on seed beds and greenhouses). But the main front of work in the first month of summer is associated with the transfer of the most thermophilic plants to the garden.
Crops that are planted in open soil in June:
- the most heat-loving annuals;
- lush blooming plants to quickly decorate the site.
The care that seedlings and planted plants will need this month should be intensified. After transferring to a permanent place for the adaptation of the plant, it is necessary to provide additional watering and monitor soil moisture. The most sensitive and capricious crops may need short-term shading. Do not start feeding immediately, even for lush summer plants: let the plants adapt and use the resources of the soil. Do not forget to install supports in a timely manner and tie up plants that need it.
Forcing bulbous
For those who want to grow bulbs and other flowers on their own for their favorite winter holidays, it is in November that you should think about planting plants for distillation. Select from your stocks healthy, large bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, crocuses or buy new varieties (there are also special bulbs for winter forcing on sale).
The only condition is that the bulbs must be cooled for at least 3 weeks before planting, and preferably for 2-4 months, in a temperature of 5 to 8 degrees outside the soil.
After planting the bulbs in pots, place them in a cool or at least not hot and dark place until signs of growth appear, and then transfer them to the light and start active watering and feeding. You can also drive out the bulbs in water - in glass vessels in which the water level is kept constant, a few millimeters below the bottom of the bulb "stuck" at the top of the flask.
